A
P R E S E N T A T I O N by
FRAGRANCE COMPANY
Specially prepared for ICPC 2016 Symposium, Izmir, Turkey by Miss Maria Gika & Mr Nikos Santiris
O UT L I N E PART
A
THIS SMELLS GREAT!
INCORPORATING FRAGRANCE SUCCESSFULLY INTO COSMETIC PRODUCTS 1 INTRODUCTION • FRAGRANCE BASICS • FRAGRANCE CHEMISTRY • FRAGRANCE IN PERSONAL CARE 2 FORMULATING WITH FRAGRANCE • MAIN CONCERNS • QUESTIONS TO BE ANSWERED • TYPICAL FUNCTIONAL ISSUES AND SOLUTIONS • STABILITY TEST 3 DISCUSSION
PART
B
AN OVERVIEW OF MARKET TRENDS IN FRAGRANCES
THIS SMELLS GREAT
INCORPORATING FRAGRANCE SUCCESSFULLY INTO COSMETIC PRODUCTS
1
INTRODUCTION
FRAGRANCE BASICS FRAGRANCE CHEMISTRY
FRAGRANCE IN PERSONAL CARE
1
FRAGRANCE BASICS
INTRODUCTION
• Fragrance -
Mixture of individual chemicals Over a hundred compounds Volatile ingredients Low Molecular Weight Three main categories
1
FRAGRANCE BASICS
INTRODUCTION
• 1 - Natural -
Essential Oils Absolutes Concretes Resins
Solvent extraction
Steam distillation
Cold expression
• 2 - Nature Identical -
Vanillin 1874 Coumarin 1868
Vanilla
Tonka Beans
• 3 - Organic synthesis -
Galaxolide Galaxolide
Musk Deer
1
FRAGRANCE BASICS
INTRODUCTION •
Wide range of perfumery notes & categories
Fruity
Edible - Gourmand
Aquatic - Marine
Oriental
Herbal
Citrus
1
INTRODUCTION
FRAGRANCE BASICS
• 3 major note characteristics Top notes (Ex. Citrus, Herbs) Middle notes (Ex. Flowers, Spices)
Bottom notes (Ex. Vanilla, Woods)
5 minutes
10-30 minutes
hours
1
INTRODUCTION
ALCOHOLS
FRAGRANCE CHEMISTRY
ESTERS
PHENOLS
ETHERS
ALDEHYDES
NITROGEN
KETONES
SULFUR
COMPOUNDS
COMPOUNDS
• Wide range of functional groups
1
FRAGRANCE CHEMISTRY
INTRODUCTION
• Single perfume ingredients modifications
Bitter Almond
• Fragrance – Fragrance Interactions
1
INTRODUCTION
FRAGRANCE CHEMISTRY
• Reaction rate depends on many factors: -
Reactivities of chemical species Concentration of reactive species Temperature Light pH Catalysts …
1
INTRODUCTION
FRAGRANCE IN PERSONAL CARE
• Affects consumer’s perception of product performance • Adds emotional benefits • Makes the difference between a product and its competitors • Key driver for purchasing decision
THIS SMELLS GREAT
INCORPORATING FRAGRANCE SUCCESSFULLY INTO COSMETIC PRODUCTS
MAIN CONCERNS
2
QUESTIONS TO BE ANSWERED
FORMULATING WITH FRAGRANCE
TYPICAL FUNCTIONAL ISSUES AND SOLUTIONS STABILITY TEST
2
FORMULATING
MAIN CONCERNS
WITH FRAGRANCE
• Difficult task • Chemically reactive additive
Stable
• May lead to undesirable changes Good looking
Performant
Final Product
Safe
Cost Effective
2
FORMULATING
MAIN CONCERNS
WITH FRAGRANCE
• Fragrance often selected by type of odor • How to enhance probability of SUCCESS?
• Select fragrance according to system & stability requirements • Understand both base and fragrance chemistry! • Have a detailed brief of the product when NPD starts • Take all parameters into account
2
FORMULATING WITH FRAGRANCE
QUESTIONS TO BE ANSWERED
•
What is the end product? (Shampoo, Emulsion…)
•
What is the intended use? (Part of the body, Use…)
•
What will it look like? (Clear, Pearlized, Suspended Beads…)
•
What are the components? (Lipophilic, Hydrophilic…)
•
How will it be processed? (Time, Heat, Agitation, Procedure…)
•
What will be the packaging? (Glass, Plastic, Clear, Opaque…)
•
Will it be coloured? (Natural or Synthetic Dyes, Pigments…)
•
What is the intended percentage of use of the fragrance? (Regulations, IFRA…)
•
Are there stability requirements? (pH, Temperature, Color…)
•
What will be the shelf life? (6 months, 2 years…)
2
FORMULATING WITH FRAGRANCE
TYPICAL FUNCTIONAL ISSUE
SOLUBILITY
• Fragrance = Aroma Chemicals + Solvent • Ingredients range in polarity • Solvent influence overall polarity • Polar solvents - Shampoo (DPG) • Non polar solvents - Body Oil (DEP)
• In Aqueous & Alcoholic systems
2
FORMULATING WITH FRAGRANCE
TYPICAL FUNCTIONAL ISSUE Pre solubilize with additives
SOLUBILITY
SOLUTION
(Glyerin, Glycols, Alcohol…)
Pre solubilize with non ionic surfactant
01
Benefit & Solution
(Ratio, Diversity…)
Surfactant: compound that lowers the surface tension between two liquids
Surfactant structure
Minimize Fragrance %
Fragrance Modification
HLB: Hydrophilic-Lipophilic balance of a surfactant (Ex: Polysorbate 20, PEG 40 Hydrogenated castor oil) Hydrophilic – Lipophilic Balance
2
FORMULATING WITH FRAGRANCE
• Linked to solubility • Haziness – Opaqueness • In aqueous / alcoholic media • even with polar solvents • In silicone / mineral oil media • even with non polar solvents • Sensitivity
TYPICAL FUNCTIONAL ISSUE
CLARITY
2
FORMULATING WITH FRAGRANCE
TYPICAL FUNCTIONAL ISSUE
CLARITY
In aqueous & alcoholic system
In silicone & mineral oil system
Pre solubilize With additives
Pre solubilize With Additives
(Esters, Emollients)
(Glycerin, Glycols, Alcohol…)
Pre solubilize with non ionic surfactant
Reduce silicon ingredients
(Ratio, diversity)
Add emulsifier (non transparent products)
Add opacifier, pearlizing agent (ex. styrene acrylates copolymer, glycol distearate)
SOLUTION 02
2
FORMULATING WITH FRAGRANCE
TYPICAL FUNCTIONAL ISSUE
CLARITY In both systems
SOLUTION 02
Change the packaging
Minimize Fragrance %
Fragrance modification
2
FORMULATING WITH FRAGRANCE
TYPICAL FUNCTIONAL ISSUE
COLOR
• Dye instability (Chlorophyllin) • Oxidation of aroma chemicals (Vanillin, Orange Oil) • Fragrance-Fragrance & Fragrance-Base interactions (Base Schiff) • Fragrance-Dye interaction (Benzaldehyde)
Dye = Chromophore + Conjugated system Chromophore: Absorbs light • Base-Package interaction (Ess. Oils, Emollients, Aroma chemicals…) Affecting color, strength, flexibility… By chemical Attack - Oxidation - Absorption
2
FORMULATING WITH FRAGRANCE
TYPICAL FUNCTIONAL ISSUE Add antioxidants (Tocopherol, Vit E, BHT…)
Add chelating agents (EDTA, Sodium Phytate, Sodium Gluconate…)
Add UV absorbers in both product & packaging (Benzophenone…)
Avoid heat & light exposure
Add Color
COLOR
SOLUTION 03
2
FORMULATING WITH FRAGRANCE
TYPICAL FUNCTIONAL ISSUE
VISCOSITY
• More pronounced as fragrance level rises • Gain of viscosity - Surfactant system - Emulsion system (stability) • Loss of viscosity - Surfactant system - Emulsion system (breaking) • Influenced by typical parameters, Surfactant type/ratio, emulsifier type, Oil phase, additives…
2
FORMULATING WITH FRAGRANCE
TYPICAL FUNCTIONAL ISSUE
VISCOSITY
• Fragrance addition = Migration of individual components in the structure
Micelle: aggregate of surfactant molecules dispersed in a liquid Micelle
• • • •
Non polar Polar Two polar groups Polar group & non polar chain
2
FORMULATING WITH FRAGRANCE
TYPICAL FUNCTIONAL ISSUE
VISCOSITY
In surfactant & Emulsion media
SOLUTION 04
Thick System
Solvents (Glycols…)
2
FORMULATING WITH FRAGRANCE
TYPICAL FUNCTIONAL ISSUE
VISCOSITY In surfactant media
SOLUTION 04
Expensive Blend Foam booster Lowers Irritation Increases micelle size
Secondary Surfactant
Thin System
(Amphoteric type CAPB)
Sodium Chloride (0.2 – 2%)
Decreases charge density & Increases micelle size
Inexpensive Blend Minimum surfactant activity
Thickeners (Gums, Acrylic polymers…
Rearrangement and Impact on Clarity, Solubility & Precipitation
2
FORMULATING WITH FRAGRANCE
TYPICAL FUNCTIONAL ISSUE
VISCOSITY In emulsion media
SOLUTION 04
Cetyl Alcohol
Thin System
Oily phase (Waxes, Butters, Thickeners…)
Aqueous phase (Gums, Acrylic polymers…)
Cocoa Butter
2
FORMULATING WITH FRAGRANCE
TYPICAL FUNCTIONAL ISSUE
VISCOSITY In both systems
SOLUTION 04
Minimize Fragrance %
Check Compatibility
Fragrance Modification
(solvents, preservatives, solubilizer, emulsifier…)
2
FORMULATING WITH FRAGRANCE
TYPICAL FUNCTIONAL ISSUE
pH
• Fragrance addition = Possible chemical reactions • pH Alteration -
Change in fragrance performance Product Spoilage (Outside preservative pH range) Disruption of products functionality (ex. Shampoo)
Healthy Hair
Damaged Hair
2
FORMULATING WITH FRAGRANCE
TYPICAL FUNCTIONAL ISSUE
pH
SOLUTION
Check product specification & requirements
05
Maintain stable and/or neutral pH Buffering Agents (Disodium Phosphate…)
Fragrance Modification (Ethers, Acetals)
Esters
2
FORMULATING WITH FRAGRANCE
TYPICAL FUNCTIONAL ISSUE
SEDIMENTS
• Perfume Ingredients • Dispersed in fragrance Oil (Powders, Resins…) • Sediment in alcohol base • Bad partitioning of fragrance ingredients • Precipitation in surfactant base
Resin
2
FORMULATING WITH FRAGRANCE
TYPICAL FUNCTIONAL ISSUE In alcohol Base
SEDIMENTS In surfactant Base
In both systems
Store in different conditions (Fridge)
Check salinity of water
Filtration
Increase Ethanol %
SOLUTION 06
Minimize Fragrance %
Fragrance Modification
2
FORMULATING WITH FRAGRANCE
TYPICAL FUNCTIONAL ISSUE
ODOUR
1- Initial
• Raw materials - Surfactants (SLES…) - Poor grade emollients (Rancid Oils…) - Preservatives (Phenethyl alcohol…) PET bottle
• Packaging materials (Residual solvents)
PVC Container
2
FORMULATING WITH FRAGRANCE
TYPICAL FUNCTIONAL ISSUE
ODOUR
2- After chemical changes • Raw materials - Fragrance-Fragrance interaction (Base Schiff) - Oxidation of aroma chemicals (Oils, Ess. Oils) - pH alteration • Packaging materials - Permeability (Oxidation, Alteration of fragrance performance, Spoilage) Raw - Breakdown materials?
2
FORMULATING WITH FRAGRANCE
TYPICAL FUNCTIONAL ISSUE
ODOUR
SOLUTION 07
Add Antioxidants & Chelators
Minimize initial smell of the base Use high grade emollients and oils
Add UV absorbers in base and packaging
Maintain neutral pH Check packaging permeability & smell
2
FORMULATING
STABILITY TESTS
WITH FRAGRANCE
• Extremely important • Predict long term stability
• Unperfumed base should be tested prior to fragranced base • Storage conditions UV light, shop light, sun light, dark, oven at stable temperatures, freezer, fridge, freeze – thaw cycles
THIS SMELLS GREAT
INCORPORATING FRAGRANCE SUCCESSFULLY INTO COSMETIC PRODUCTS
3
DISCUSSION
LET’S TALK ABOUT IT!
3
LET’S TALK ABOUT IT! DISCUSSION Allow adequate time for testing and resolution of problems
Take every possible variable into account
Treat fragrances as mixtures of chemicals
Your fragrance supplier is always at your disposal to help you overcome formulation problems!
Cooperate between perfumer, formulator, chemist and customer
Specific stability requirements? Sensitive base materials?
Know what they are and their properties
A lot of other unknown issues & interactions
Have defined technical parameters
Thank you for your attention! CONTACT If you require more information, we will be delighted to hear from you. Please write, call or email us directly.
VIORYL S.A. 28th km Athens - Lamia National Rd, 190 14 Afidnes, Greece Tel. (+ 30) 22950 45 100 Fax (+ 30) 22950 45 250 Email
[email protected] w w w.v io ry l.g r