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NO FASHION FAUX PAS BERMUDA SHORTS ARE AS COLORFUL AS THE ISLAND THEY CLOTHE

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› JULY 15, 2012

All Eyes on

LONDON As the world prepares to watch the SUMMER OLYMPICS, we prepare you to explore what’s calling

U.S. track star Lolo Jones will compete in the 100-meter hurdles

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VOLUME 45 NUMBER 14

JULY 15, 2012

CONTENTS PHOTO OP: Bronze statues of Franklin D. Roosevelt (left) and Winston Churchill sitting on a bench in London’s Mayfair district. The sculpture, Allies, by Lawrence Holofcener, was unveiled in May 1995.

Features

40 WEST END STORY

London is hosting its third Summer Olympics, but this world-class city offers visitors a wealth of everything year-round. BY CHRIS WESSLING

Bermuda is famous for its wealth, its pristine beaches and perhaps the most recognizable cultural fashion accessory outside of the Scottish kilt. And as one writer finds out, the look isn’t for the pale-kneed or the sartorially selfconscious. BY JOSEPH GUINTO

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ROBERTO HERRETT/CORBIS

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VOLUME 45 NUMBER 14

JULY 15, 2012

CONTENTS Itinerary

15 Hire your own chef, stream TV — such as the new Dallas — movies and more via NeoTV, customize your own Designears, PLUS much more.

Briefs

32 Q&A: Dan Aykroyd — comedian, actor, screenwriter, musician and, most recently, co-founder of Crystal Head Vodka 34 Go: Spend your weekend in the historic seaport of Cardiff, Wales.

Department ENDURANCE SPORT

36 BETWEEN A ROCK AND A HARD PLACE

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ON THE COVER Photography: 1) Oliver Strewe/Lonely Planet Images; Kristian Dowling/ Getty Images; 2) Adrian Lyon/Alamy; Nick Laham/Getty Images

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Email the editor

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IN EVERY ISSUE Staff Vantage Point Editor’s Note Air Mail Mensa Sudoku Crossword Buckle Up

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PASSENGER INFORMATION The Customer Experience AA Insider Tips for Assistance AAdvantage AA.com AA Products & Services ON American Airlines Onboard Our Flights Your Personal Health: Deep Vein Thrombosis Airline Partners Terminal Maps System Maps Customs Form I-94 Form

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***PITSTOP EXCEPTION**

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Michael Woody PUBLISHER

Adam Pitluk EXECUTIVE EDITOR

David W. Radabaugh DESIGN DIRECTOR

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American Airlines Flagship Detroit DC-3, entered the fleet in 1937. Photograph courtesy Flagship Detroit Foundation. A A .COM/AMERICANWAY

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VANTAGE POINT

The Summer Games

about our airline and our employees. Please write to us at www.aa.com/customerrelations

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notification of Tom Horton’s column or to see past columns? Go to www.americanwaymag.com/whatsnew

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Nowhere has our transformation been more dramatic, or more important, than in London. As you know, London is not only one of the world’s foremost business and leisure destinations, it is also a major connecting point between North America, Europe and much of the rest of the world. In 1991, American acquired TWA’s London Heathrow route authorities and moved most of our London operations to Heathrow. Two years ago, we launched a joint business across the Atlantic with our partners British Airways and Iberia. Through this collaboration, combined with the growth we’ve achieved independently over the last three decades, we are now able to offer travelers nearly 70 flights a day between North America and the United Kingdom. Just last month, we launched our fourth flight between DFW and Heathrow. Pierre de Coubertin, founder of the modern Olympic Games, famously said that the most important thing in the Olympics is not winning but participating. Indeed, what makes the Olympic Games so special is less the stories of individual accomplishment and more the participation, the coming together — whether on the playing field, in the stands or even through the communal experience of watching on television — of so many millions of people around the world. At American Airlines, we are proud of the role we are playing in bringing many thousands of athletes and spectators to the London Games. But we are even prouder of the fact that by building a global network of truly Olympic scale, we connect the world, and in the process, enable millions of people to participate in the world in ways none of us imagined 30 years ago. Wherever you are going today, I want to thank you for flying with us. Have a great trip!

THOMAS W. HORTON Chairman & CEO American Airlines

CHET SNEDDEN

We’d love to hear what you think

“CITIUS, ALTIUS, FORTIUS” is the official motto of the modern Olympic Games. For those of you whose Latin is a little rusty, that means “Faster, Higher, Stronger.” With the opening ceremonies of the Summer Olympics set for the end of this month in London, the eyes of the world are on one of my favorite cities. Over three weeks, more than 10,000 athletes will compete in everything from basketball to badminton, tennis to taekwondo. When it’s over, an elite group of men and women will have earned the title of “world’s best” — and an even more elite group will have pushed the boundaries of what is humanly possible, embodying the Olympic ideal of faster, higher, stronger. Of course, pushing boundaries is what aviation is all about. And while the Summer Games take place but once every four years, the global competition that is the airline industry goes on 365 days a year, every year, on a playing field encompassing hundreds of cities in dozens of countries. From an American Airlines perspective, it is a nice coincidence that London is hosting the Games of the XXX Olympiad, for it was in London, 30 years ago, that we began our transition from a domestically focused airline to the global carrier we are today. In the spring of 1982, we launched our inaugural service between Dallas/Fort Worth and London’s Gatwick Airport. Despite a history dating back to 1926, we had been locked out of the highly regulated trans-Atlantic market for decades. That changed when one of our rivals, which had the authority to fly between DFW and Gatwick, suspended operations. American had been designated as the backup carrier for that route, and we filed an application to launch replacement service. We were granted the authority, with one catch: We had to start the service within a week. In a Herculean effort, the American team mobilized the aircraft, crews and support staff needed to launch our 747 on its 4,700-mile journey in just five days. Nobody realized it at the time, but that team effort didn’t just launch a new route — it changed the trajectory of our company forever. At the risk of understatement, our international system has come a long way since 1982. Today, American and American Eagle serve more than 250 airports in 50 countries worldwide, and working with our oneworld partners, we offer travelers a network of more than 800 destinations in 150 countries.

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EDITOR’S NOTE

Listen Up, Children

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them were like us — lots of dudes in their 30s and 40s. But there was a solid representation of college kids. “I knew your parents!” Perry Farrell joked to them from the stage. “They used to have green hair and wear Doc Martens!” Folks, I’m here to tell you that Perry Farrell is better than ever. Not only does he still have that famously wry sense of humor, but both he and Dave Navarro sound better at 53 and 45 than they ever did at 30 and 22, respectively. Their bodies were more sculpted and they were in better shape than anyone on SMU’s campus, football team included. Despite the freakishly unfreaky venue, this concert was one of the best I’ve ever seen, and I left actually being glad that I didn’t see Jane’s when I was a younger lad. They proved to me, to Jeff and Gavin, and to every current and wannabe rock star that age is relative. All you younger musicians out there — all you children — should catch a Jane’s Addiction concert to see how it’s done, ’cause these guys are still the real deal. They are to music and pageantry what Dan Aykroyd is to acting and vodka (sounds strange, but turn to page 32 to see what I mean). I can finally check a Jane’s Addiction concert off my bucket list. I can also relate to what my parents went through when I harangued them to let me go see Jane’s in concert: I can relate to what Jeff’s and Gavin’s parents went through; I can relate to what every parent of every guy in the Midwest between the years 1985 and 1991 went through. Because as a father, I can guarantee you this: There’s absolutely no way I’m ever letting my children go to a Jane’s Addiction concert, even when they’re 35 and 32 and Perry and Dave are 82 and 74, respectively.

ADAM PITLUK Editor

Want to talk to Adam?

Reach him at [email protected]

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notification of Adam’s column or to read his past columns? Visit www.americanwaymag.com/whatsnew

SCOTT WINTROW

J

JANUARY 15, 2009, seems like forever ago, but in that issue, I wrote a column about my bucket list of concerts. One of the bands that I’d always wanted to see — though my parents wouldn’t let me go to a show — was Jane’s Addiction. Mom and Dad forbade it. Not because their lyrics were too offensive per se, but because to Cleveland parents, these four Hollywood vampires weren’t the best role models for their baby boy. Back in the middle 1980s and early ’90s, there wasn’t a single one among us boys at University School in Shaker Heights, Ohio, who didn’t wish we lived in L.A. because of Jane’s Addiction. Lead singer Perry Farrell embodied that chic underground-frontman persona that we emulated, and guitarist Dave Navarro exemplified the look that the all-boys University School student body wished it had. The two were mysterious and dark, and the girls liked them. Yes, Jane’s Addiction was the height of coolness. Then they broke up. Then they got back together. Then they broke up. Now they’re back together. Over time, I’ve met similar like-minded individuals who had similar childhoods in their own Midwestern towns. Like my buddy Jeff. The boys at his junior high and high school in Topeka, Kan., sounded a lot like us Clevelanders. And my buddy Gavin related similar stories about the boys at his junior high and high school in Wichita, Kan. I formulated a thesis that any male who grew up in the Midwest between 1985 and 1991 had a tremendous amount of Los Angeles wanderlust because of Jane’s Addiction. But none of us ever saw them live because our parents wouldn’t let us. Here we are in 2012, and the band is back on the road. But Perry Farrell is now 53 years old, and Dave Navarro is 45. Surely they’re no longer the spry rock stars that took Sunset Boulevard’s Whisky A Go Go by storm 25 years ago. Besides, I seriously got into Jane’s when I was 14. I’m now 35. I’m no longer single with toys; I’m married with children. And still, nostalgia’s tractor beam pulled Jeff, Gavin and me to the concert in Dallas, where we all live now. Everything about the night was bizarre. For starters, the venue was the McFarlin Auditorium. For you Dallas locals, you read that right: McFarlin Auditorium on the campus of Southern Methodist University. Hardly the proper venue for Hollywood vampires. Then there was the audience. Most of

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AIR MAIL

100,000 AAdvantage miles for your thoughts. We enjoy hearing what you think about the magazine — so much so that if your letter to the editor is published in a 2012 issue, you’ll be entered into a drawing to win 100,000 AAdvantage miles. Want a chance at the miles? Simply email your thoughts to us at [email protected]

KEEPING IT TOGETHER

I admit I find myself tearing out a page or two from American Way to take home with me. There is often an item or a feature that I want to remember, or information about various locations that I want to share with my husband for future trips. During my last trip there were too many pages to tear out, so I took the magazine with me. It got me thinking that I should take the magazine and not tear pages out, as others might miss the same information I find valuable. Thanks for providing saveworthy features. I may leave a magazine that has the Sudoku completed, but if I leave the magazine on the plane, there won’t be pages missing anymore because of me. Shirley Fagereng, Fort Worth, Texas EDITOR ADAM PITLUK RESPONDS: On behalf of my mother, thank you for not mutilating my homework anymore, Shirley. Just take it with you … we’ll print more. PUZZLES

Thanks for great in-flight entertainment. I do the Sudoku page in ink, starting with the Diabolical grid. The Mensa quiz is also fun; my wife does the word puzzles and I do the math questions. We’re delighted to discover we qualify for Mensa if we work together. Ron Beatty, Montgomery, Texas

A.P. RESPONDS: Thank you, Harold. Be on the lookout for our new-and-improved, redesigned maps. And if you see Shirley, make sure she’s not ripping out pages anymore. WINGS

Our family of six just got back from a trip to Belize. We traveled with our four young children, ages 9, 7, 5 and 3. My husband and I were a little nervous about flying with them, but with American, the flight attendants went out of their way to accommodate us. They were so happy to have the children onboard. My son asked for wings, but the flight attendant was running low. She asked for our address and said that she would mail some to us. To my surprise, I received an envelope in the mail with four sets of wings. American always goes above and beyond. The Hudson Family, Ocean Springs, Miss. EXECUTIVE SENIOR EDITOR CHRIS WESSLING RESPONDS: “Above and beyond” pretty much sums up the level of service our flight attendant colleagues dish up every single day. DONATIONS

American Way gives me good information, providing me with tips on places I will visit. I love the maps and the fact that I’m allowed to take the issue with me. Harold Forsyth, Ambassador of Peru to the United States, Washington, D.C.

I had the opportunity to fly my mom to New York City for the first time and, given my status on American, upgrade her to First Class. It was a memory I will cherish and a blessing I realize not all have. When I was a child, we rarely flew due to cost. My mom was an elementary-school art teacher until she retired a few years ago, and being able to take her on a trip was a dream come true. The June 1 “Editor’s Note” touched me so deeply. What an amazing thing Peter Rodway is doing for his students, and what a difference he is making in the lives of our children. It made me think. I am the director of U.S. retail marketing for an amazing company (Krispy Kreme), and one of our largest efforts is school fundraising. I would like to offer to

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SENIOR EDITOR ANNA FIALHO RESPONDS: As the saying goes, two heads are better than one. Sounds like you two make the perfect pair when it comes to the Mensa challenge. A PLETHORA OF INFORMATION

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donate fundraising for the students to pay for their per diem costs on a trip, along with some of my miles to get them there. While I can’t fly them all, I would like to challenge my fellow frequent-fliers to donate some of their miles. Let us, together, make a difference in the lives of these children and give them an experience that will last their whole lives and which may even spark a love of travel and a drive to get there that we all share. Megan Brock, Austin, Texas A.P. RESPONDS: Wow, Megan. What a beautifully written story. Your offer to help Peter’s students is amazing and heartwarming. OBRIGADA!, AA

As a Brazilian citizen, I was delighted to read in CEO Thomas W. Horton’s column (“Vantage Point,” June 1) that Manaus is the seventh and newest AA destination in Brazil. This city is the best way to get close to one of the most stunning places in the world: the Amazon rain forest. AA’s decision to start flying to this city is proof of foresight. Many people who could save the Amazon or simply find out more about this fascinating region will now have better ways to get there. Brazil hosted the Rio+20 conference, a meeting that brings together around 50,000 people to discuss “our common future.” The goal is to agree on a message about sustainable development that will guide us for the next 20 years. As a young researcher, I am enthusiastic to be part of this process. I would not be flying to Rio without AA, which kindly agreed to sponsor a fundamental event called “Rio Climate Challenge,” which tries to help policy makers involved in climate-change negotiations to advance a global agreement capable of keeping carbon concentration in the atmosphere below 450 parts per million. The decisions made in Rio are crucial for our future. Thank you for the opportunity to say 20 years from now: “I was there.” Nicole de Paula Domingos, Washington, D.C. ASSOCIATE EDITOR CHERYL KRZY WICKI RESPONDS: I’ve heard so many wonderful things about Brazil, and I can’t wait to visit. Thank you for all of your hard work to save the rain forests.

Missed it in the magazine?

All American Way articles are available online at AA.com/americanway

06/21/12 3:06 PM

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Sometimes, coming home can be a battle in itself. Join us and discover how you can make a difference in the lives of our wounded warriors and their families. Donate today at supportuso.org

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!!COM gives you our lowest prices guaranteed – and fast. Plus, with our simple and flexible booking tool, it’s easy to find the best deal on flights, hotels, cruises, car rentals, vacation packages and more. So you can think less about planning your trip and spend more time enjoying it.

Sample prices were valid on February 24, 2012, and may no longer be available. For current pricing, please visit AA.com. AmericanAirlines, AA.com and Lowest Prices Guaranteed are marks of American Airlines, Inc. oneworld is a mark of the oneworld Alliance, LLC. © 2012 American Airlines, Inc. All rights reserved.

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DESIGN YOUR OWN HEADPHONES | CHRIS COLFER GOES OFF(SCREEN) | THE RETURN OF JIMMY’Z | + MORE

ITINERARY

{ MOVIES }

Big-Screen Gem

JEFF VESPA/CONTOUR BY GETTY IMAGES

PAUL DANO serves up a jewel with his latest film, Ruby Sparks.

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ITINERARY Backing the Bat Since his comic-book debut seven decades ago, BATMAN — created by Bob Kane and William Finger — has undergone myriad evolutions, becoming along the way a vigilante, a detective, a comic foil, a fashion plate, a nocturnal beast and an action hero. As this month’s hotly anticipated The Dark Knight Rises hits theaters, we take a look back at the history of one of America’s favorite comic characters.

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1940: Robin is introduced as a Watson to Batman’s Holmes, while the Joker and Catwoman appear as arch nemeses.

1966: ABC’s campy television series, starring Adam West, premieres with a “Biff! Zap! Pow!” and runs for 120 episodes. 1986: Frank Miller’s four-issue series, Batman: The Dark Knight Returns, widely considered one of comics’ finest moments, finds a wizened 55-year-old Caped Crusader (aka Bruce Wayne) emerging from retirement in a nearfuture dystopia.

1989: Tim Burton brings his phantasmagoric

1992: Returning to a somber, noir-like tone, Batman: The Animated Series premieres on Fox, earning Emmy Awards.

1997: Batman & Robin — the film-franchise nadir in the opinion of most — debuts, featuring George Clooney and a muchdiscussed Batsuit with rubber nipples.

2005: Edgy, mysterybased and dark, Christopher Nolan’s Batman Begins reinvigorates the movie franchise, with Christian Bale as a particularly gritty Dark Knight.

2012: Emerging from exile in The Dark Knight Rises, Batman takes on the wicked Bane in the final Nolan-Bale collaboration. —J.R.

THIS PAGE, FROM LEFT: MERRICK MORTON/FOX SEARCHLIGHT; DAILY MAIL/REX/ALAMY; EVERETT COLLECTION (4); WARNER BROS PICTURES OPPOSITE PAGE, SLOW FOOD CYCLE SUNDAY: DAVE STEERS

Famously noted, there is no I in team, with some of cinema’s greats (Daniel Dayso how lovers fare when they collabo- Lewis and Robert De Niro among them), rate on the big screen is often a mixed even if he’s yet to become a household name. “Surprise is a good thing for an actor,” bag, privately and creatively. Just ask Richard Burton and Elizabeth Taylor or Tom Dano says. “I don’t party hard or do fancy or Cruise and Nicole Kidman. The news, both flashy things, so maybe people don’t know on- and offscreen, is happier for Paul Dano my face like they know some actors’. I’m just and Zoe Kazan (above), a real-life couple who looking for the right script or character or work together on this summer’s winsome, filmmaker to ask me to step up my game and do something thrilling.” off-kilter fairy tale, Ruby Sparks. Ruby is such a project, starring Dano as “It started with Zoe writing on the couch of our home. I was reading every page as she an author struggling with loneliness and wrote it,” says the 28-year-old Dano, who writer’s block who, quite literally, brings met Kazan doing an off-Broadway play four to life the woman of his dreams (played by years ago. “It was this perfect thing, and Kazan). To prepare for the role, Dano — also we sent it to some friends, and we ended up guitarist and lead singer for an underground making the uncompromised, ideal version of band, Mook — listened to a lot of Paul Simon, Bon Iver, Ray Charles and tango music. “Muwhat Zoe wrote. That never happens.” Those “friends” are filmmakers Jona- sic’s a jump-start to an engine for me,” he says. “It helps me stay focused tha n Day ton a nd Va lerie and inspired and, really, to be Faris, a husband-and-wife somebody else.” team beloved for their ground“I’m just looking At the end of the day, Dano breaking music videos for for the right script and Kazan are back to the t he Sma sh i ng P u mpk i ns or character or couch as young lovers, having and R.E.M., as well as for the award-winning feature film filmmaker to ask survived the oft-treacherous terrain of mixing business Little Miss Sunshine, which me to step up and pleasure. “We survived starred a poignant, mostly my game and and came away stronger for mute Dano. The young actor’s the collaboration,” he says. “I performances are usually do something think we did all right. And we indelible, from his turns in thrilling.” made a movie we really love.” There Will Be Blood to Being —J. Rentilly Flynn, which have paired him

1939: Inspired by pulp fiction, noir literature and Sherlock Holmes, Batman makes his first appearance in Detective Comics No. 27, “The Case of the Chemical Syndicate.”

sensibility to Batman, starring Michael Keaton. A box-office bonanza ensues.

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{ BEAUTY }

{ T R AV E L }

Nuxe Men

Making Scents

THIS PAGE, FROM LEFT: MERRICK MORTON/FOX SEARCHLIGHT; DAILY MAIL/REX/ALAMY; EVERETT COLLECTION (4); WARNER BROS PICTURES OPPOSITE PAGE, SLOW FOOD CYCLE SUNDAY: DAVE STEERS

People often say

that our strongest sense is that of smell, so it’s only natural that a pure fragrance would be the most powerful. AJNE ORGANIC PERFUME & APOTHECARY makes scents that are free of artificial fragrances by using oils extracted from plants grown at their location on California’s Central Coast and gathered from small farmers worldwide. Their signature perfumes blend with the wearer’s personal chemistry to make them unique and a favorite among Hollywood stars, including Kate Beckinsale, Rob Lowe and Molly Sims. Now Ajne’s president and organic perfumer, Jane Hendler, is bringing her smart scents to travel, creating custom fragrances for all Rosewood and several Four Seasons resorts worldwide, in turn

providing guests with their own “scented memory.” Hendler uses oils from native flora to enhance each property’s scent, while taking into account its setting and surrounding culture. The resulting fragrance is then diffused throughout the property (including the guest rooms), incorporated into custom spa treatments and sold as perfume and candles. For the Four Seasons Hotel Toronto, Hendler crafted a rich scent, grounded in patchouli, sandalwood and cedarwood, that’s worthy of the hotel’s corporate headquarters. At the Rosewood Abu Dhabi, Hendler’s fragrance captures the essence of Middle East marketplaces, with a sandalwood base and deep, rich notes of ancient patchouli and earthy vetiver.

www.ajne.com

—LAURA KINIRY

B RI TI S H CO LU M BI A

{ T R AV E L + F O O D }

Pemberton by Pedal The Canadian

village of Pemberton, British Columbia, tucked in an agricultural valley 20 miles north of Whistler, emerges from the shadow of its well-known neighbor during the annual SLOW FOOD CYCLE SUNDAY (Aug. 19). The leisurely (and flat!) 30-mile bicycle tour marks the one time each year that area growers open for tours and tastings. Some 50 local chefs, bakers and producers also sell treats at a dozen farms along the route. “It’s a unique opportunity to see agriculture at a very

basic level,” says event co-founder Anna Helmer, an organicpotato farmer. When riders reach the end of the pavement, she suggests they take the one-mile bonus ride down a dirt road to an alpaca farm in the woods. The event is free and starts in downtown Pemberton. Purchase snacks at farms along the way, and celebrate after the ride with a Schramm Vodka cocktail. Pemberton Distillery crafts the spirit using local potatoes.

For more than two decades, cult Parisian beauty brand NUXE has attracted legions of female fans, including Anne Hathaway, Charlize Theron and Penelope Cruz. So dapper gents should take note that the company is launching a plantbased men’s line. Infused with various tree extracts — like sandalwood, phellodendron and hornbeam — the six products in the collection are created using 79 percent natural-origin ingredients. That means the oak-andcedar-extract shower gel won’t dry out your skin (or taint the water supply), while the coconut-and-sage-infused deodorant will keep you fresh without staining your favorite oxford. $15 to $35, us.nuxe.com —MIKE TENNEY

www.slowfood cyclesunday.com

—RENEE BRINCKS

SAVE THE DATE

Aug. 19

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ITINERARY { TV }

Don’t Mess with Texans

Jesse Metcalfe joins the warring Ewing clan on TNT’s buzzed-about Dallas relaunch. roles may lack in variety — he played a hot gardener involved in a steamy romance on ABC’s Desperate Housewives and now stars as a hot rancher involved in a steamy romance on TNT’s Dallas reboot — they make up for in sizzle. But Metcalfe insists his latest role is a step up in the maturity department. “I’ve grown up a bit,” he says. “I’m riding horses

and herding cattle now. It’s a lot different than running a weed whacker.” The 33-year-old plays Christopher Ewing, the goodhearted, environmentally conscious son of Patrick Duffy’s Bobby Ewing, facing off with his evil (and apparently bulletproof) uncle, J.R. Ewing, and J.R.’s son, John Ross. As the drama builds, we get Metcalfe to spill about the show and his enviable assignments.

AMERICAN WAY: What is it with you and Texas? Your acting gigs — first the NBC drama Chase, now Dallas — keep taking you to the Lone Star State. JESSE METCALFE: Circumstance, man. I love Texas. For a guy who grew up in the suburbs of Connecticut, shooting Dallas in Dallas is one of life’s great adventures, and it lends so much authenticity to our show. AW: This isn’t a reinvention so much as it’s a sequel, with a lot of the old gang returning. JM: Yeah, and it’s amazing. Doing the show together for 14 years, they became very close friends. I was born the year Dallas premiered, so I didn’t watch it then, but I’ve watched a few seasons of it recently. It was a great, great show — cutting-edge in its style of storytelling and acting. AW: Twenty years ago, J.R. Ewing was a supervillain the likes of whom were hardly seen. Today, guys like him are omnipresent in the headlines. JM: Totally true. It’s amazing how society has changed in just the last 20 to 25 years. But don’t worry, the stage is set for J.R. to be as bad as he ever was. Maybe worse. AW: And on Dallas, you will continue to romance beautiful women. JM: I have been very, very blessed in my work. [Laughs] —J. RENTILLY

Live Like a Local While filming DALLAS in its titular city, Jesse Metcalfe got to know what he calls “one of the greatest cities on Earth.” Here, he shares his recommendations for where to go while visiting the Big D. BEST EATS Javier’s www.javiers.net “Amazing food and amazing atmosphere — Chesterfield couches, taxidermy on the walls, cigar bar in back. And Javier, the owner, is the real-life guy from the Dos Equis commercials. He’s got to be the most interesting guy in the world.”

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BEST LIVE MUSIC The Prophet Bar www.theprophetbar.com “Great vibe. Great bands.” BEST ART Meadows Museum www.smu.edu/meadowsmuseum “This museum is amazing, and the outdoor garden is mind-blowing.”

BEST GOLF Colonial Country Club, Fort Worth www.colonialfw.com “It’s a Top-10 course, part of the Upper Tour, steeped in rich heritage and old money. You can feel the affluence. Playing here, it’s like actually being one of the guys I’m pretending to be on TV.” —J.R.

The Sky’s the Limit COBY BELL’s career has taken him to new heights — specifically, around 30,000 feet. In the 2009 Oscar-nominated film Up in the Air, George Clooney’s character aspires to notch a recordbreaking 10 million frequent-flier miles on American Airlines. In real life, actor Coby Bell — already highprofile thanks to steady gigs on two hit television shows, BET’s The Game and USA’s Burn Notice — is fast on his way to besting Clooney’s superfly status. “Flying is all I do,” Bell laughs, noting the weekly — sometimes twice-weekly — cross-country flights he logs between Burn Notice’s Miami location and his home base of Los Angeles, where he and his wife have four young children. “Well, sometimes I do some acting too. But mostly I fly.” Bell, who often whiles away the hours listening to Ricky Gervais podcasts on his iPod, says American Way is his favorite magazine (“Because it’s always right in front of me,” he says) and knows many AA flight staffs on a first-name basis. The 37-year-old says AA always takes extraordinary care of him, but there’s one thing he feels he’s missing: a crown. “I am king of flying, after all,” he jokes. Perhaps the airline is saving Bell’s crowning for this fall when the busy actor adds a third destination to his regular flight route: The Game just relocated its production to Atlanta. “Can you believe it?” he asks. “Seriously, I’m very lucky at the moment — I’ve got two good jobs. My dad would call these champagne problems.” He pauses. “But I still want my crown.” —J.R.

FROM LEFT: MARTIN SCHOELLER/TNT; GLENN WATSON/USA NETWORK

What Jesse Metcalfe’s

A A .COM/AMERICANWAY

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Baylor Regional Medical Center at Plano 4708 Alliance Blvd., Suite 800 Plano, TX 75093

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Physicians are members of the medical staff at one of Baylor Health Care System’s subsidiary, community or affiliated medical centers and are neither employees nor agents of those medical centers, Baylor Scoliosis Center or Baylor Health Care System. ©2012 Baylor Health Care System BRMCPL 379_SCOLIOSIS AW CE 06.12

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ITINERARY

{ TECH }

Smart TV

Here’s a bright idea: Instead of shelling out big bucks to upgrade your television, try NEOTV, a video-streaming device that gives you easy and affordable access to a wide range of entertainment options, straight from the Internet to your living room. NeoTV lets you stream thousands of movies, games and Web TV, including content from popular sites like Hulu Plus, YouTube, Netflix, Vudu and Pandora, all in vivid audio and crystal-clear HD. If you’re curious about streaming video but aren’t ready to replace your current flat-screen set, NeoTV is a frugal way to test the waters. Think of it as high-IQ TV. $50 to $70, www.netgear.com —JOSH SENS

APP ATTACK

Lost in translation? Find your way again with the help of WORD LENS, a nifty app that translates printed words from English to French, Spanish or Italian (and vice versa) through your iPhone’s or iPad’s built-in camera. A network connection is not required. Just point, click and the babble of the world makes sense again. $10 per language pair, www.wordlens.com —J.S.

{ GEAR + STYLE }

Getting Personal

Music choice is personal. So

is fashion preference. Which brings us to DESIGNEARS BY ORIGAUDIO, a pair of new highperformance headphones that cater to your own distinctive sense of style. Customizable down to the last detail, Designears allow you to create a custom look with vivid color printing on the headpiece and both earpieces. Use your own artwork, photos, graphics or logos, or choose from a host of designs and patterns. As easy on the ears as they are on the eyes, Designears also feature cushioned ear cups, convenient volume control and a single headphone cord to avoid tangles. An accompanying travel case protects your headphones while you’re on the road. $70,

www.origaudio.com —J.S.

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ITINERARY { FOOD }

Chef for Hire

S CO

BOOKMARK THIS

{ DRINK }

Singled Out Though it’s a

different from any other distilled beverage because you’re distilling the stems, seeds, pulp and skins of the grapes — basically the essences of the grapes themselves.” Bar 888 currently features nearly 150 grappa varieties, from floral-based moscatos to caramelly, ambercolored versions made from nebbiolo grapes, as well as bottles from California, Oregon

collection unknown to most locals, San Francisco’s BAR (located on 888 the lobby level of the city’s downtown InterContinental San Francisco hotel) boasts one of the largest selections of grappa in the country. “Grappa is a grapebased pomace brandy that originated in Italy,” says InterContinental’s wine steward, John Wight. “It’s entirely

and Argentina. (Unlike Champagne or port, the name grappa is not indicative of its place of origin.) The bar offers about a dozen grappa-based cocktails, such as the popular Eau de Vin — a dose of Aqua di Cedro grappa liqueur muddled with fresh blueberries, strawberries, raspberries and lime juice, served over ice.

www.grappabar888 .com —LAURA KINIRY

Spirits in Supply

GOVOLUNTOURING .COM encourages globe-trotting for good with a database of meaningful service opportunities around the world. Save pandas in China. Restore historic frescoes in Italy’s Puglia region. Work with underprivileged children in the Dominican Republic. The GoVoluntouring team vets each program before posting it, and travelers can search the resulting projects by type of work, location, cost, age, activity level or the length of their trip. —Renee Brincks

With more than 25 to choose from, Brooklyn’s MAISON PREMIERE claims to feature the largest selection of absinthe in New York. Take yours with a sugar cube or in a cocktail. www.maisonpremiere.com At LAS PERLAS in Los Angeles, choose from more than 200 types of mescal, including both highland and lowland tequilas. www.213nightlife.com/lasperlas Las Vegas Japanese restaurant SHIBUYA offers more than 100 different sakes for sipping, including three private-label brands. www.mgmgrand.com/restaurants

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RON ARMSTRONG (2); MAGGIE MARGUERITE

SAN FRANCI

Rather than cook at your own soiree, show off a celebrity chef in your kitchen instead, via the new service KITCHIT, which supplies an A-list roster of chefs for hire in San Francisco, Los Angeles and New York. Custom events include anything from a cooking lesson to a full-on five-course dinner prepared by high-caliber toques such as Top Chef Masters alumni Traci Des Jardins of Jardinère on the West Coast and Floyd Cardoz of North End Grill in the east. The big names get big bucks, of course (Des Jardins doesn’t go for less than $2,500 for an event), but lesser-known chefs start at $30 per person. “If you go out and pay for a bottle of wine and a baby sitter, you’re coming out about even,” says Stephen Shih of South Pasadena, Calif. Shih hired an (uncelebrated) Kitchit chef to cook for his and his wife’s fifth wedding anniversary. “It’s also casual. We didn’t have to worry about our 2-year-old running around a restaurant.” www.kitchit.com —ELAINE GLUSAC

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ITINERARY

In Short

The Write Stuff

Actor CHRIS COLFER put pen to paper for his latest project. Chris Colfer has already proved himself a triple threat, deftly singing, dancing and acting on his hit show, Glee. Turns out, the 22-year-old Golden Globe winner is the rare quadruple threat: He can write too. Colfer’s debut novel, The Land of Stories: The Wishing Spell — a magical story about two kids who suddenly find themselves face to face with real-life fairy-tale characters — hits stores this month. Colfer fills us in on how he added author to his list of accomplishments. AMERICAN WAY: Does this feel different than when you have an acting project to promote? CHRIS COLFER: Yes. I’m a little … scared. It’s all me. There are no writers, no directors, no other actors. Just me. So there’s a lot of ownership in that. AW: What was your inspiration for the book? CC: My mother used to read me all the fairy tales. I loved the idea of telling the stories behind the fairy

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tales, of showing the other side. Like, Sleeping Beauty wakes up and has a lot to deal with. She has to put her kingdom back together. Or Cinderella — it wasn’t such a happy ending, you know. Half the kingdom was furious because they didn’t want the prince marrying a peasant girl. AW: How did the book come about? CC: After I won my Golden Globe, I was approached to write an autobiography. And I thought an autobiography was ridiculous. Let me hit 25 before I tell the story of

“There are no writers, no directors, no other actors. Just me. So there’s a lot of ownership in that.”

my life. But I’d had the idea for this book in my mind since I was 10, so I suggested it. Honestly, I’ve thought about these characters for so long — I knew what they would look like, I knew what they would say — that I wrote the first five chapters in about a week. AW: This is a book for both kids and adults. Did you write for a particular audience? CC: You know what, I just wrote what came naturally. Readers under 30 seem to really love it, and everyone who is over 30 tells me they cry when they read it. I think it reminds them of their own childhoods. AW: Did you find the writing process similar to creating a character for a show? CC: Definitely. I don’t know that I consider myself an actor or a writer, just a storyteller. Because all of these things tell stories. I think most actors are writers; they just don’t realize it. —ALLISON WINN SCOTCH

—JACLYN TROP

Dream Team: How Michael, Magic, Larry, Charles, and the Greatest Team of All Time Conquered the World and Changed the Game of Basketball Forever By Jack McCallum (Ballantine Books, $28) Sports Illustrated writer Jack McCallum had a courtside seat when the NBA’s biggest stars teamed up for the 1992 Summer Olympics in Barcelona, Spain. He sat down again with those basketball legends to formulate this fascinating then-and-now play-by-play of the masterful moves (both on and off the court) that made the Dream Team a reality. Even readers who aren’t hoops fans will be drawn in by this inside look at how the team took home gold and forever changed a sport. —KRISTIN BAIRD RATTINI

MAARTEN DE BOER/SAGF/CONTOUR BY GETTY IMAGES

{ BOOKS }

Equal of the Sun: A Novel By Anita Amirrezvani (Scribner, $26) Princess Pari assumes control of late-16thcentury Iran after the sudden death of her father, the Shah. While she waits for her brother to return from exile to rule the throne, Pari manages to bring peace to the kingdom with the aid of Javaher, a eunuch and trusted political adviser. But when the new king arrives with an iron-fist rule, Pari and Javaher discover a web of secrets, danger and Machiavellian power struggles lurking within the palace walls. With colorful prose and tales from the royal court, author Anita Amirrezvani brings 1576 Iran to life.

A A .COM/AMERICANWAY

AAP - Pitstop - _0B9GH_AW20120715-024.pdf June 22, 2012 06:56:43

6/22/12 6:54 AM

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AAP - Pitstop - _0B5TS_AW20120715-029.pdf June 21, 2012 07:06:17

6/21/12 7:04 AM

ITINERARY LO S AN GEL ES

GENIUS IDEA

{ STYLE }

Surf’s Up

In the early 1980s, Jim Ganzer was living the SoCal dream as an artist/waterman; he grew up “tennis-shoeing” (dining and dashing) at Ted’s Rancho with surf legend Miki Dora and sculpted in Venice Beach studios alongside Ron Cooper and Larry Bell. “I’m an old surfer,” explains Ganzer, who worked at various board shops and surf magazines before making a fortuitous leap into the fashion industry. After developing a skate short with a baseball-pantinspired Velcro belt attached — trimmed with his classic woody car logo — Ganzer launched JIMMY’Z at the 1984 Action Sports Retailer Trade Expo in Long Beach. “We went from zero to $28 million in business in just four years,” he recalls. “I sold $300,000 worth of clothes at that first trade show. I’d never sold $300,000 [worth] of art.” Rising to cult status, with fans including writer Hunter S. Thompson

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and skateboarder Christian Hosoi, Jimmy’z (pronounced: Jimmy’s) was later acquired by Ocean Pacific (OP) in the early ’90s and then ended up wallowing in licensing limbo. Though Ganzer dropped out of the game for 15 years to surf and sculpt in Costa Rica, he relaunched the line this spring, placing tees; hoodies; and cord, cargo and neon-cotton versions of his signature shorts in top boutiques like New York’s Opening Ceremony and L.A.’s Venice Originals. “We’re trying to put it back together the way it started. It was just so pure back then,” says Ganzer, noting he plans to roll out pants, women’s clothing and accessories in the near future. But don’t let this return to the spotlight fool you: This old surf bum’s first priority is still clearly stated on his voice mail; “I’m at the beach right now, and you’re not.” www

Travel restrictions make it challenging to take your favorite fragrances along on your world travels. However, TRAVALO has created a solution: the Excel, which has a pump-and-refill system (patent pending) that transfers your favorite fragrance into a finger-sized dispenser. To use, remove the spray nozzle from your perfume bottle, place the Excel on top and pump as much scent into it as needed. The durable aluminum flask can hold up to 65 sprays. $20, www .us.travalo.com —L.M.

.jimmyzworld.com

—MICHAEL SLENSKE

{ SHOP }

L.A. Baubles

There’s a new player on Rodeo Drive, and he’s bringing some very sparkly and posh toys. Famed jeweler DAVID YURMAN’s newest outpost is his West Coast flagship, located in Beverly Hills. The 2,700-square-foot shop has the look and feel of an open studio and actually resembles the one that Yurman works out of in New York. Select pieces of artwork designed by Yurman and his wife, Sybil, are displayed among the store’s decor of marble floors, walnut countertops and satin metallic accents. And because the shop is so spacious, each of the brand’s collections gets its own area (including Silver, Silver Ice, Gold, Pearl, Eyewear, Bridal and High Jewelry, the latter an array of one-of-a-kind pieces featuring exquisite rare stones). In honor of the opening, Yurman has designed several pieces that are exclusive to the Beverly Hills shop, such as a Moonlight Ice Cable Bracelet that’s embedded with blue topaz, citrine and pink tourmaline ($17,000 to $20,000). 371 N. Rodeo Drive, www.davidyurman.com —LISA MARSH

A A .COM/AMERICANWAY

AAP - Pitstop - _0BAPC_AW20120715-030.pdf June 25, 2012 15:35:10

6/25/12 3:33 PM

)NTRODUCINGANEWLEVELOFCOMFORT with the International Business Class seat. But it’s not simply a seat. It lies flat – all the way flat. And every single seat has aisle access. Plus international Wi-Fi*, in-seat entertainment and a lot more. Look for them to start rolling out later this year. Learn more at AA.com/flybetter.

*Available on the 777-200 and 777-300ERs. International Wi-Fi service provided by T-Mobile HotSpot GmbH, an affiliated company of Deutsche Telekom AG. AmericanAirlines and AA.com are marks of American Airlines Inc. oneworld is a mark of the oneworld Alliance, LLC. © 2012 American Airlines, Inc. All rights reserved.

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6/21/12 10:40 AM

AAP - Pitstop - _0B6G3_AW20120715-031.pdf June 21, 2012 10:42:205/25/12

12:06 PM

By J. Rentilly

BRIEF: Q&A

Good Taste

Tired of below-average beverages, comedy legend DAN AYKROYD set out to make a better brand of vodka.

C

OOL CATS get nine lives, and they don’t get much cooler than Dan Aykroyd, who has lived what seems like a thousand lives. From changing the face of comedy as a founding member of Saturday Night Live to bringing blues music to the mainstream and, now, launching Crystal Head Vodka — a high-end pure spirit earning worldwide praise from connoisseurs, mixologists and casual drinkers alike — Aykroyd has truly done it all. We talked to the 60-year-old Renaissance man about his latest venture and his next big-screen project.

Drink Up Dan Aykroyd shares how he prefers to enjoy his Crystal Head Vodka. The Crystal Driver Ingredients: 2 ounces Crystal Head Vodka 2 to 3 ounces freshly squeezed tangerine or clementine juice Directions: Add Crystal Head Vodka into a cocktail glass filled with ice. Slowly pour in the freshly squeezed fruit juice. Garnish with a blood-orange slice.

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AMERICAN WAY: What motivated you to enter the spirits business? DAN AYKROYD: The insights probably stop at 10 shots of vodka, but, yes, I like the occasional screwdriver, and I was looking for a vodka that provided a blank canvas, a pure spirit, to work with. Couldn’t find one. Had to make it. AW: How is Crystal Head different from other vodkas? DA: Most vodkas don’t really taste like vodka. They have these additives that first, disguise and mask the flavor of the alcohol; second, produce a viscous, oily, front-of-the-mouth feel, which is very artificial; and third, add a sweetness. So we decided to take a shot, so to speak, and change the industry. It’s not what we put in Crystal Head Vodka; it’s what we don’t put in it. AW: So far, so good, right? DA: We’re a Double Gold award winner in the World Spirits Competition. We’ve sold 2 million bottles. We’re on a mission to visit every bar in America because once people have tried us, they don’t go back. We’re offering people a pure, unadulterated spirit, which is probably a good metaphor for what people today are craving. AW: No matter what you’ve accomplished in this life, you seem intent on following your bliss wherever it takes you. DA: [Laughs] It’s true. I’m having so much fun. It’s enlightening. It’s creative. And it’s all about relationships. When you make a movie, you meet 150 people for four months, you fall in love, and then you have to leave and you hardly ever see them again. In this industry, you’re seeing the same

people all the time. They become friends. In my career, I’ve put some good visuals in people’s eyes. I’ve put some good sounds in their ears. Now I get to actually place something on people’s tongues. I’ve done a whole assault on all of your senses. AW: How does your work in the spirits industry compare to your work in film and television? DA: You certainly have more control [with spirits]. As [filmmaker] Bob Zemeckis says, in the film business, you show up with your vision in mind and then take nine steps backward because you have to be practical and you have to be collaborative. Filmmaking is a series of compromises, and the results are often less than perfect. With Crystal Head, there is no compromise. AW: That said, we’re looking forward to seeing you return to the big screen this summer in The Campaign, with Will Ferrell and Zach Galifianakis. DA: America’s going to be so happy to see this movie. All of this election stuff going on — this movie completely nails that. I only go out the door for movies that I really love, and I went quickly when I got this call. I’ll get up for superstars doing great work. AW: You’re a living legend, enjoying success in more realms than most of us can even imagine. Any words of wisdom? DA: As long as everything’s in moderation, we don’t draw any blood, and we remain considerate of others and compassionate to those who are less fortunate, then we’re doing all right. And we should have fun when we can get it.

“I’ve done a whole assault on all of your senses.”

A A .COM/AMERICANWAY

06/26/12 10:13 AM

AAP - Pitstop - _0BBSD_AW20120715-032.pdf June 26, 2012 10:15:14

An Insider Look at Dating in the Modern World Why does dating often times seem so difficult and daunting? With all the dating websites and social networks out there, you’d think it would be easier than ever for singles to meet someone special. But that’s not the case. Meeting the right people seems harder than ever. To get the latest on realtime dating trends, we caught up with Melissa Brown, one of the many dating experts at It’s Just Lunch.

Q: So what does today’s dating scene look like?

AN EASIER WAY TO MEET SOMEONE

A: Dating today is an interesting paradox: we’re more connected than ever through social media and online networking, yet we’re also more disconnected than ever. Today’s technology makes communication faster, but I’m not sure it’s better. You can’t make a genuine connection with someone by texting, emailing or friending. When you meet someone in person and share a meal together, you see how that person interacts with you and the people around you. You observe their body language and how they carry themselves. That’s where the true chemistry happens: face-to-face, one on one. At It’s Just Lunch, our focus is to get people out from behind their computers and out making connections with real people. Q: What’s the biggest

frustration singles have with modern dating?

A: I hear the same thing over

job spending all that time looking over online profiles trying to find someone who could be a match”. It just takes all the fun out of dating. Most singles don’t have a problem finding dates, but they can’t find “good” dates. After a round of bad matches and a busy schedule, it’s easy for one to feel like giving up on dating all together.

Q: So why do people come to you at It’s Just Lunch?

A: People hire specialists such as financial advisors and personal trainers to handle so many aspects of their lives, so why not use a professional to help you find someone special. We specialize in dating—we’ve made more than two million matches over the past 20 years! Q: What differentiates It’s Just Lunch from other dating sites out there?

A: We believe that the best way to get to know someone is face-to-face. So, we meet every IJL client in person to get a feel for his or her personality, preferences and relationship goals. Then we hand-select and arrange fun casual dates so our clients can meet someone face-to-face and see if there is chemistry.

Q: Does it work? A: Answer: 20 years, 150 cities and over two million first dates. Get in touch with It’s Just Lunch at 800.858.6526 or ItsJustLunch.com.

and over: “it was like a second

A Note from the IJL Dating Experts: “Our hands on approach has helped us become the number one personalized matchmaking service in the world.”

Amy Brinkman

Betty Sinclair

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Meet your match today. Visit ItsJustLunch.com or call 800.858.6526. OV E R 1 5 0 L O CAT I O N S I N T H E U N I T E D S TAT E S , CA N A DA , A S I A , AU S T R A L I A A N D T H E U K .

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AAP - Pitstop - _0B3R2_AW20120715-033.pdf June 14, 2012 15:04:31

6/14/12 3:02 PM

By Melissa Burdick Harmon

BRIEF: GO

A Weekend in … Cardiff, Wales

G

This gorgeous harbor city always buzzes with activity, so when it hosts the first event of the 2012 SUMMER OLYMPICS on July 25, get ready for a good time.

ONE ARE THE DAYS when coal was king and the seaport of Cardiff, Wales, swarmed with ships carrying the lucrative “black gold” to ports all over the world. Now the Welsh capital boasts a chic, redeveloped waterfront, great restaurants, a top-tier museum and what may well be the world’s funkiest castle. What’s more, the city’s sleek, modern Millennium Stadium was chosen as the host of the first competition of the 2012 Summer Olympics, a women’s football — soccer, to Americans — match, to be held two days before the official opening ceremony in London. What’s so inviting about this city of around 350,000 people that it was selected for such an honor? Go and see for yourself.

FOR MORE INFORMATION

on the featured destinations, visit www.americanwaymag.com

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DO Get your bearings with a ride on a Cardiff City Hop-on Hop-off Tour bus. The complete route takes 50 minutes, with a live guide providing narration, but should a particular stop pique your interest, passengers may get off at any point to explore and board a later bus to continue on. Visit the sublimely eccentric Cardiff Castle, where the third Marquess of Bute, a man of great imagination (and great money), turned an existing 12thcentury Norman castle into a whimsical home. National Museum Cardiff, the city’s star attraction, houses — among many other things — a remarkable collection of more than 260 Impressionist paintings bequeathed to the museum by the Davies sisters, Gwendoline and Margaret, in 1951 and 1963. The exquisite Lord Richard Rogers– designed Senedd, home of the National Assembly for Wales, overlooks Cardiff Bay and is extremely photogenic.

EAT Woods Brasserie offers lovely seafood and grilled fare in the lively waterfront area. The service is go-the-extra-mile friendly, and the threecourse menu is a great value at just around $32. The Potted Pig, a short walk from Millennium Stadium, serves modern British cuisine and more than 30 types of gin in a former underground bank vault. Laguna Kitchen & Bar in the Park Plaza Hotel Cardiff does great business, especially at Sunday lunch, when families come for traditional roast beef with Yorkshire pudding or Welsh pork sausages with caramelized onion mash. SHOP If you only have time to visit one shop, make it Craft in the Bay , a gallery run by the

Makers Guild in Wales that features a dizzying — and ever-changing — assortment of handcrafted goods, including pottery, jewelry, handbags and clothes. Be sure to save time to wander through a few of Cardiff’s old Victorian and Edwardian shopping arcades, located in the Castle Quarter, that are now filled with ultramodern shops selling everything from pungent local cheeses to Welsh love spoons, always a favorite souvenir. Stop by Morgan Quarter arcades (the most wellpreserved of the bunch) to visit Spillers Records, the world’s oldest record store, open since 1894. Nearby, St. David’s Dewi Sant mall is also packed with notable shops, including the Cardiff branch of London’s renowned department store, John Lewis; Lakeland, a stop for colorful kitchenware; and Cath Kidston, which sells popular vintageprint tote bags, bed linens and more. SLEEP Park Plaza Cardiff offers the best location in town, just steps from Cardiff Castle and the National Museum on Greyfriars Road and near Millennium Stadium. Its 129 contemporary rooms feature top-of-the-line bedding for extracomfortable sleep. The St. David’s Hotel & Spa, at the edge of Cardiff Bay, offers spectacular waterfront views. Its excellent Marine Spa is famous for its enriching mud baths and other indulgent treatments, while its Tempus at Tides Restaurant & Bar serves dinner al fresco on pleasant Friday and Saturday nights.

For information

on the 2012 Summer Olympics, visit www.london2012.com

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: ANDREW MOLYNEUX, JAMES O. DAVIES/BOTH CARDIFF COUNCIL; DAVID WILLIAMS/GETTY IMAGES; COURTESY PRINCIPAL HAYLEY; COURTESY MAKERS GUILD IN WALES; CHRIS HOWES/WILD PLACES PHOTOGRAPHY/ALAMY

FROM LEFT: Cardiff Castle outside and in; Cardiff Bay; Spillers Records; the St. David’s Hotel & Spa

A A .COM/AMERICANWAY

AAP - Pitstop - _0BANE_AW20120715-034.pdf June 25, 2012 15:30:23

6/25/12 3:28 PM

Use your phone like you do at home. AT&T’s new, more affordable international data packages make it easier to use your phone abroad. More phones that work in more countries. att.com/global Certain eligibility restrictions apply which may be based on service tenure, payment history, and/or credit. Rates are subject to change. For countries, rates, and additional details, see att.com/global. Data Global Add-Ons require that domestic data capability be in place. One-month minimum required. Rates apply only for usage within “roam zone” comprised of select carriers. Within the roam zone, overage rate applies if you exceed the MBs allotted for any Data Global Add-On Packages. International roaming pay-per-use rates apply in countries outside the roam zone. See att.com/globalcountries for current roam zone list. For terms and conditions that apply to all data plans, see att.com/wirelesslegal. Screen images simulated. ©Facebook is a trademark of Facebook, Inc. ©2012 AT&T Intellectual Property. Service provided by AT&T Mobility. All rights reserved. AT&T, the AT&T logo, and all other AT&T marks contained herein are trademarks of AT&T Intellectual Property.

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AAP - Pitstop - _0B3XH_AW20120715-035.pdf June 15, 2012 12:10:34

By Ethan Rouen photography by Jimmy Chin

E NDU R ANCE SPORT

Honnold on a North Face climbing expedition in Africa

Between a Rock and a Hard Place Dangling 2,000 feet in the air, free-solo climber ALEX HONNOLD doesn’t let the fame get to him.

M

ORE THAN 1,800 FEET off the ground, Alex Honnold started panicking a bit. He was standing on a 12-inch ledge just below the summit of Yosemite National Park’s Half Dome and doubting his abilities. “I could hear people laughing and having a good time 150 feet above me,” Honnold tells me. “But I’m tweaking out on this little slab.” The 2,000-foot climb up the vertical granite northwest face of Half Dome often takes two days, and for many climbers, it is the crowning achievement of their careers. The last 150 feet are a technical nightmare, with bad footholds and handholds the size of pebbles. When climbers reach this point in the climb, there is nowhere to go but up. Honnold, however, pushed through, completing the whole climb in under three hours. More impressively, he did it free-solo — i.e., no safety ropes, no climbing gear and no harnesses. In 2008, he was the first person to free-solo this route. When he reached the top, there was no celebratory party.

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A A .COM/AMERICANWAY

AAP - Pitstop - _0BAJI_AW20120715-036.pdf June 25, 2012 15:05:32

6/25/12 3:03 PM

JIMMY CHIN NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC STOCK

Instead, he got the occasional odd look from the hikers who had made the nine-mile hike up the other side of the mountain, most of whom were too busy taking pictures, having lunch or making out to pay attention to this sweaty man wearing nothing but shorts, climbing shoes and a small chalk bag. It would be like throwing a perfect game in Game 7 of the World Series, then looking around to find that not only was the crowd not paying attention, but they were also all completely focused on their own games of catch. On the hike down, wearing no shoes because you can’t hike in climbing shoes, “I probably had 50 comments from people saying, ‘You’re hiking barefoot? That’s crazy.’„” Honnold thought to himself, “Dude, that’s not the half of it.” Such is the life of the greatest free-solo climber in the world. Honnold, 26, can attach “first person to ever ” to many of his climbs, and while his flawless, sinewy build physically represents the same ability of many top climbers, Honnold’s mental fortitude — his ability to remain focused hour after hour — separates him in a way that is not only invisible but also intangible. “In some ways, he’s like a superhero,” says Jimmy Chin, a professional photographer and climber who photographed Honnold for the cover of National Geographic. “He does what people think is absolutely impossible. Even climbers think it’s impossible.” Still, most of Honnold’s record-breaking climbs are done not in front of large crowds or television cameras but alone, just one man on one giant rock, a poetic representation of the simple lifestyle that is attached to the sport. “There are hundreds, maybe thousands of people who basically devote their lives to climbing,” says Dougald MacDonald, editorin-chief of Climbing magazine. “They live very frugally, work as little as possible and follow the seasons. … There was a climber in the 1970s who famously said, ‘At either end of the social spectrum, there’s a leisure class.’ ” Honnold, who grew up in Sacramento, Calif., dropped out of the University of California, Berkeley, after his freshman year to devote himself to climbing. He paid an outof-work friend to build a small living space in the back of a Ford Econoline van, and he lived out of it for five years. At first, the living arrangement was a financial necessity to support his lifestyle. Honnold lived on less

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AAP - Pitstop - _0B7XX_AW20120715-037.pdf June 21, 2012 15:45:50

6/21/12 3:43 PM

ENDUR ANCE SPORT

than $1,000 a month, and the freedom that came with this simple way of life allowed him to devote himself to his sport and to reach a beyond-expert skill level. Today, though, with The North Face apparel company providing his salary and travel budget; sponsorship from Black Diamond, La Sportiva, Clif Bar and New

England Ropes; and national media attention, including a profile on 60 Minutes and a Citi credit card commercial, Honnold has the opportunity to acquire more possessions or find a more permanent living arrangement. But he resists that urge — if the urge even exists — in order to pursue his passion. “That’s the climbing lifestyle in general,” Honnold with Yosemite National Park’s Half Dome in the background



In some ways, he’s like a superhero. He does what people think is absolutely impossible. Even climbers think it’s impossible.



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HONNOLD STARTED CLIMBING at age 11 and spent his youth fantasizing about the exotic places photographed in the climbing magazines he read. He says that, like everyone else, he always wanted recognition for being good at what he does, but no one could anticipate the international fame he has received. “No climber expects that kind of notoriety,” MacDonald says. “This is very unusual and happens maybe once every 10 to 15 years in the media world.”

JIMMY CHIN/NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC STOCK

he explains. “You have to go to the rocks all the time, which is different from other sports. You can’t accumulate things, because you can’t take them with you. I’m very happy with what I’m doing. I go to cool places and climb cool stuff.” With the financial benefits of his recent celebrity, Honnold says he does eat a little better, and he takes advantage of his travel budget, having visited five continents. But he still climbs almost 300 days a year, and when it’s fall in California, he is back in his van in the Yosemite Valley, climbing his home turf as much as he can. “It’s a community, which makes it a lot different from any other sport,” says Cedar Wright, a teammate on the North Face team who recently spent several weeks climbing with Honnold in Chile. “You can go to El Capitan [in Yosemite] and hang out with the Michael Jordan of climbing, but he’s just another guy.”

This is not intended to be an offer to sell, or solicitation to buy, condominium units to residents of CT, ID, NJ, NY and OR, or in any other Sales by Related Realty in collaboration jurisdiction where prohibited by law. This offering is made only by the prospectus for the condominium and no statement should be relied with Fortune Development Sales upon if not made in the prospectus. Prices, plans and specifications are subject to change without notice. The Related Group is not the project developer. This Condominium is being developed by PRH 1100 S Miami Avenue, LLC (“Developer”), which has a limited right to 38 JULY 15, 2012 A A .COM/AMERICANWAY use the trademarked names and logos of The Related Group pursuant to a license and marketing agreement with The Related Group. Oral Representations cannot be relied upon as correctly stating the representations of the Developer. For correct representations, make reference to the documents required by Section 718.503, Florida Statutes, to be furnished by a Developer to a buyer or lessee.

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JIMMY CHIN/NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC STOCK

At a recent competition in Santiago, Chile, more than 3,000 people showed up, and they all seemed to want a piece of Honnold, clamor ing for photographs. One man even asked for his shirt, which Honnold gave him. Part of what attracts people to Honnold, obviously, is what he does. Anyone who has ever felt his or her stomach churn upon approaching the edge of a high cliff knows what the climber has to overcome on a regular basis. “He embodies risk,” Chin says. With bouldering’s goal of climbing smaller rocks and the large tangle of equipment that goes with sport climbing, they “can seem hard to grasp,” Chin says. “[But] it’s pretty easy to understand somebody clinging to a wall 2,000 feet off the ground without being attached.” Fame for these kinds of achievements can be deadly. Honnold is not the best technical climber nor the strongest physically, but his ability to concentrate sets him apart. He does not want to be thinking about what people will say as he gets to the summit when he should be thinking about how to execute his next difficult move. And that is the other reason the spotlight has fallen on him. With wide dark eyes and big ears on a slim, taut frame, Honnold looks like a curious boy who has just gone through a growth spurt. He is a voracious reader, analytical and inquisitive, and the major benefit of his fame for him is the opportunity it provides to reflect on his own growth as a climber and a person. Recently, when Honnold was sitting at an outdoor café on a busy Manhattan street during a 10-hour layover between Chile and Spain, it was difficult to imagine this chatty man willingly putting his life at risk. But in videos of his climbing, it becomes apparent why he is so successful. He is always in the moment, embracing the immediate physical demands of his task while accepting the inevitable distractions without letting them bother him. Those distractions have become a bit more difficult to ignore when he’s not on the rocks, though. “Can I shake your hand to see how strong it is?” asks a young woman sitting at an adjacent table, who has been whispering with her middle-aged mother throughout their meal about sitting next to a celebrity. Honnold mumbles an acknowledgment and offers his thick-callused hand, his

cheeks blushing beneath a deep suntan. “We saw your video,” the young woman’s mother says. “Tell your mother she’s amazing. Your mother encourages bravery. I hope I do it for my own 23-year-old son.” “I’m extra self-conscious about that stuff,” Honnold remarks after they leave; it’s his first complete sentence since the

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interruption. “I don’t like causing a scene, but they seemed like nice folks, and at least they’re psyched.” ETHAN ROUEN is a contributing writer at Fortune.com, American Way and other publications. A former crime reporter for the New York Daily News, he teaches at the Columbia University Graduate School of Journalism and is a Ph.D. student in accounting at Columbia Business School.

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West End Story LONDON is hosting its third Summer Olympics, but this world-class city offers visitors a wealth of everything year-round.

FROM LEFT: ALLI ARNOLD; HARRY HOW/GETTY IMAGES FOR USOC

If 

By Chris Wessling

there really is such a thing as too much of a good thing, it’s London. This sort of realization tends to strike a chap as he’s working on his third pint in a West End pub whose cellar once held prisoners for overnight stays. Not because the jails were full, but because the cellar was the gateway to a tunnel leading to nearby Hyde Park — where the prisoners were executed in a very public fashion. It may have been the ale talking, but as I listened to the Portman pub owner Barnaby Meredith tell this macabre yet historically delicious tale, skipping my flight back to the States and extending my time in the city that gave the world Chaucer and Jerry Springer

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FROM LEFT: ALLI ARNOLD; HARRY HOW/GETTY IMAGES FOR USOC

SADDLE UP: U.S. cyclist Dotsie Bausch, a Louisville, Ky., native now living in Irvine, Calif., will compete in the track cycling event.

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became an increasingly plausible solution to “When a man my problem: too much London, not enough is tired of time. London, he is Too much history. Too much culture. Too tired of life; much world-class shopping. Too many pubs. for there is London adds to its global appeal this in London all month by hosting the Summer Olympics that life can (July 27–Aug. 12), which means there’s even afford.” more to do and see in this nearly 2,000-year—SAMUEL JOHNSON old metropolis. British author and essayist Since the world is coming to London for the XXXth Olympiad, we offer 30 DIFFERENT WAYS to enjoy London, starting in the city’s crown jewel. The West End district is home to the longest shopping street in Europe, 40 acclaimed theaters, 30 museums and galleries, and 28 Michelin-starred restaurants. There’s much more, of course. But taking it all in is a mission impossible — no matter what your ale tells you.



First, stop by WESTENDVIP.COM to find attractive offers on shopping, lodging, restaurants and nightlife. London is a pricey city (it easily outranks New York), and every pound you save can be spent on …

II 

.OXFORD STREET, which offers the yin and yang of international shopping. This 1.5-mile-long thoroughfare is the longest retail magnet in Europe and boasts the tony Selfridges flagship store, where a Givenchy tote will set you back $1,425. If you’re low on funds, head into Primark and pick up a pair of Union Jack socks for about $1.30 or a dress for $5.25.

III 

Venture onto BOND STREET and into the world of haute couture: Emporio Armani, Bulgari, Burberry, Cartier, Chanel, Dior, Dolce & Gabbana, Salvatore Ferragamo, Gucci, Harry Winston, Hermès, Alexander McQueen, Prada, Tiffany & Co., Louis Vuitton and Yves Saint Laurent all reside here. Remember: If you have to ask the price, you probably can’t afford it (but looking is free).

IV 

Continue your retail therapy on REGENT STREET, built for the eventual King George IV as one of the first shopping streets in the world. Follow this curved beaux arts thoroughfare and wander into the Apple Store, or practice your veddy best British accent in front of BBC headquarters at Broadcasting House on the same street. If you’re in town around Christmas, expect to be dazzled by the stunning overhead display of lights.



Escape the crowds by checking into the Hyatt Regency London, better known as the CHURCHILL . This is where impeccable British service meets five-star

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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: COURTESY WEST END (2); JORG GREUEL/GETTY IMAGES; ALLI ARNOLD

LEFT TO RIGHT: Oxford Circus at the intersection of Regent and Oxford; Regent Street has welcomed shoppers for decades; Nelson’s Column in Trafalgar Square

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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: COURTESY WEST END (2); JORG GREUEL/GETTY IMAGES; ALLI ARNOLD

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luxury — and where you shouldn’t pass up the opportunity to savor afternoon tea at the Montagu restaurant. The very friendly lady at the hotel’s Theatre Desk might even give you a show poster for free — if you ask nicely. We did.

VI 

The Churchill is located in the heart of PORTMAN VILLAGE , an eclectic mix of salons, designer boutiques, pubs and trendy restaurants. Friendly advice: Fuel up for the day at La Masseria, an Italian deli and patisserie that also supplies some of London’s top chefs and restaurants.

VII 

Don’t leave Portman Village without hoisting a pint at a cozy and vibrant pub called the PORTMAN (ask for a British ale, and the barkeep will become a fast friend). Traditional pub fare is available on the main floor, while the upstairs restaurant offers a stylish selection of changing dishes, including pumpkin gnocchi, pheasant and partridge.

VIII 

A short stroll away is ST. CHRISTOPHER’S PLACE, the West End’s hidden gem — literally. Tucked away down an alley between Bond Street and Selfridges, this urban oasis is easily overlooked. Here you’ll find a relaxing-yetcosmopolitan atmosphere and a wealth of al fresco dining and boutique shopping. Try the tapas at La Tasca or pop into Jigsaw, where the duchess of Cambridge worked as a buyer when she was known simply as Kate Middleton.

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IX 

Before venturing much farther, buy a LONDON PASS. This card will get you into more than 55 popular attractions (St. Paul’s Cathedral, the Tower of London, Kensington Palace, etc.) without having to wait in the regular admission line. You’ll start saving money by the time you visit your third attraction. Available online (www.london pass.com) or at a London pickup location.



London is a superb walking city, but exploring on foot takes time. BIG BUS TOURS offers open-top sightseeing tours, and you can hop on and off at your leisure. Touristy? You bet. But it’s a savvy way to get around a very big city and see most of the major attractions (complete with live guides or personal recorded commentary). Your feet will thank you.

XI 

When the monarchy throws a big party, its members usually gather on a well-known Buckingham Palace balcony and do the royal wave for a throng of assembled commoners. The road just outside the gates that stretches all the way to Trafalgar Square is the MALL , and it’s where the Olympic marathon, racewalking and cycling competitions will be held. If you’re in town during a state visit, expect to see the queen ride by in a fancy carriage while British flags flutter everywhere.

XII 

Football (soccer) is a religion in England, and the faithful will gather at new WEMBLEY STADIUM for the men’s and women’s Olympic gold-medal

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: VINCENT MacNAMARA/ALAMY; RICHARD I’ANSON/LONELY PLANET IMAGES; ROBERT HARDING WORLD IMAGERY/ALAMY; LOOP IMAGES LTD./ALAMY; ALLI ARNOLD

CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE: the Mall outside Buckingham Palace; La Tasca Spanish Tapas Bar & Kitchen on James Street; the Wembley Stadium arch; the changing of the guard at Whitehall

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matches. You may not be able to take the field with Abby Wambach, Hope Solo and the rest of the U.S. women’s team, but you can take an unforgettable tour of this magnificent sports cathedral.

XIII 

A regiment of mounted soldiers has been guarding the monarchy since 1660, and the soldiers put on a changing-of-the-guards show for tourists at the HORSE GUARDS PARADE . But for the Olympics, the parade grounds turn into the beach-volleyball venue. Either way, it’s a great starting point to begin a tour of London’s Whitehall area, the heart of British government.

XIV 

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: VINCENT MACNAMARA/ALAMY; RICHARD I’ANSON/LONELY PLANET; ROBERT HARDING WORLD IMAGERY/ ALAMY; LOOP IMAGES LTD/ALAMY; ALLI ARNOLD

A minute’s walk away is where Winston Churchill directed Britain’s effort in World War II. Descend into the warren that is the CHURCHILL WAR ROOMS museum for a slightly claustrophobic glimpse into history, and imagine what it must be like to work while bombs are falling on the streets above you. The War Cabinet Room is exactly as Churchill left it on V-E Day.

XV 

BIG BEN and PARLIAMENT cast a

long shadow (literally and figuratively) nearby, and the bobbies are so friendly that they willingly oblige when an American teenager asks to pose with one for a photo. Nice chaps, indeed.

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Roya l-wedding fever has cooled now that Kate Middleton and Prince William have been married for more than a year, but you can walk down the same aisle that they did when they tied the royal knot at WESTMINSTER ABBEY. Stay outside and marvel at the church’s beautifully Gothic western facade, or head inside and see where Oliver Cromwell, Isaac Newton and Charles Darwin are buried.

XVII 

Not every hotel can boast an 80-foot-long bar, but not every hotel is the SANDERSON. Walk into the lobby and be greeted by an eye-popping sofa designed to look like a pair of ruby-red lips. Then enjoy the hotel’s airy, chic ambience, which extends to the very appropriately named Long Bar. You’ll want to try the whimsical Mad Hatter’s Afternoon Tea in the Courtyard Garden, if only so you can legitimately use that phrase in a sentence afterward.

LEFT TO RIGHT: the Sanderson lobby and treats often served at the Mad Hatter’s Afternoon Tea; Sanjiv Mehta, who revived the East India Company, holding a box of Director’s Blend green tea

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XVIII 

A different kind of entertainment awaits in THEATRELAND, London’s version of Broadway. The fi rst West End theater opened in 1663, and there are dozens operating today, including Queen’s Theatre. Its production of Les Misérables is superb, but be prepared to hum “Master of the House” for a long, long time afterward.

XIX 

For decades, England’s newspaper industry was clustered along FLEET STREET. It’s not quite the same now, but you can soak up the historic atmosphere over a heaping plate of delicious fish and chips at Ye Olde Cock Tavern. Head west beyond the Royal Courts of Justice and you’ll see where the interior shots of Gringotts Wizarding Bank were fi lmed for one of the Harry Potter movies (the Australian Embassy). And don’t worry: Muggles are welcome.

XX 

At PENHALIGON’S, you can sit for a personal fragrance profiling and listen as store manager Alexandra Kostadinova explains why scent is such a powerful sense. She will be friendly and utterly convincing, and you will be compelled to buy a bottle of Blenheim Bouquet or Bluebell (one of the late Princess Diana’s favorites). Penhaligon’s supplies scents to some members of the royal family, and it has helped the likes of Winston Churchill and Rudyard Kipling achieve greatness, olfactorily speaking.

XXI 

Once upon a time, the EAST INDIA COMPANY was a world power unto itself, trading in everything from diamonds to exotic animals to silk, spices and foodstuff. It had its own army and controlled 50 percent of the entire world’s trade. The company was dissolved in 1873, but it has been relaunched as a purveyor of

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: GETTY IMAGES; LEON NEAL/AFP/GETTY IMAGES; CATH HARRIES/ALAMY; COURTESY SANDERSON

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XXII 

Where else but London can you shop in a store that traces its heritage all the way back to two Royal Navy ships? The current incarnation of LIBERTY, just off Regent Street, was built in 1924 with timbers from the HMS Impregnable and the HMS Hindustan. These days, you can browse an eclectic mix of jewelry, clothes, accessories, artwork, fabric and stationery.

XXIII 

Inside the Fortnum & Mason department store on Piccadilly is the PARLOUR RESTAURANT, where diets go to die. Viennese cakes and strudels? Check. The Ultimate Hot Chocolate? Oh, yes. An ice cream sundae that (almost) looks as good as it tastes? Heavenly.

XXIV  CLOCKWISE FROM BELOW: Liberty department store; Court No. 3 at Wimbledon; afternoon tea at Criterion Restaurant

At the BRITISH MUSEUM , the Rosetta Stone and the Elgin Marbles provide a peek into the world’s very distant past. Their ownerships may be a controversial issue, but their historical significance is undisputable. And admission is free.

XXV 

In the mood to do what George Orwell, Karl Marx and Lenin all did at some point in their lives? Then head to SPEAKERS’ CORNER near the Marble Arch in Hyde Park and have your say on your favorite topic. Beware the hecklers, though.

XXVI 

Homesick for a wee bit of America? Get your USA on at the BENJAMIN FRANKLIN HOUSE near Trafalgar Square. It’s the only surviving home of this Founding Father.

XXVII 

The Beatles conquered America … with a little help from ABBEY ROAD STUDIOS. Music is still created here, and the street crossing made famous on the Abbey Road cover remains a Beatles-fan magnet.

XXVIII 

Hell’s Kitchen fans who want a taste of celeb chef Gordon Ramsay (without the fourletter words) flock to RESTAURANT GORDON RAMSAY. Just plan on making your reservation at least a month in advance.

XXIX 

Three weeks after what’s formally known as the Championships, the All England Lawn Tennis and Croquet Club at WIMBLEDON will serve as host for the Olympic tennis matches. Behind-the-scenes guided tours are available, as are its world-famous Kentish strawberries and cream.

XXX 

Say farewell to London with a meal at CRITERION RESTAURANT on Piccadilly Circus. Its jawdropping opulence (lots of gold, marble, grand windows and soaring arches) is entirely appropriate in a city with eight palaces. Try the roasted fillet of Shetland halibut, and then smile because you know this is the place where Dr. Watson first hears of Sherlock Holmes in A Study in Scarlet. When you get home, watch The Dark Knight and savor the scene that was filmed here. Then regret ever having to leave in the first place.

American Way executive senior editor CHRIS WESSLING would move to London in a heartbeat.

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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: COURTESY FORTNUM & MASON; ALLI ARNOLD; PETER DENCH/CORBIS; SILWEN RANDEBROCK/ALAMY; BOB THOMAS/GETTY IMAGES

fine teas, chocolates, coffees and exquisite gifts from around the globe.

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