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Idea Transcript


CHAPTER FOUR

AN ANTIQUE LAND

[

231 ]

An Antique Land

We are fully aware of the fact that Amitav Ghosh is an anthropologist. He received a scholarship to do a D. Phil, in social anthropology at Oxford University.

It

anthropological

Alexandria

study

which

took

him

to

is this

University and consequently to the villages of Egypt.

He

admits that his campus life and travels within, and without the country contributed to his development as a creative writer.

In An Antique Land

shows

that

'.

he

is

not

a mere

fictionist

but

an

indefatigable researcher, a social an thropologist and a keen traveller as well.

It bears testimony

to Ghosh's interaction with at least four languages and

cultures

across

spread

several

over

countries.

other contemporary writers, conquering new linages, ideas and

three

continents

Unlike

of

his canvas

the

and some

keeps on

giving expression to new

themes.1

In an interview, Ghosh talks about the book's. theme and form:

No, this time I am not writing a novel. Not; even

[

124

]

sociology,

history

Historical

or

bettes-letters

research.

My

new

book

based

on

cannot

be

described.as anyone of these. It's a strange sort of work. Within the parameters of history, I have • .

tried narrative, narrative,

without to

without

historical novel. have

capture

story,

a

write

a

as a writer,

I

attempting

You may say,

faced a technical

a

to

challenge.I 2

The anthropologist Ghosh is at his best in wearing a complex pattern of fact and fiction.

It was in 1978 while

going through manuscripts in Oxford library that Amitav. Ghosh

read

about

Abraham

Ben

Yiju,

a

Tunisian

Jewish

merchant, who came to India via Egypt around 1130 A.D. and Ben Yiju's slave is from Tululand of ancient India.

Says

Ghosh:

I was a student, twenty-two years old, and I had recently

scholarship

awarded

by

a

foundation

established by a family of expatriate Indians. It was only a few months since I had left India and so I was perhaps a little more befuddled by my situation than students usually are. At that moment the only thing I knew about my future was that I was expected to do research leading towards a doctorate in social anthropology.

I had never

heard of the Cairo Geniza before that day, within a Arabic. 1980,

I

few months At

I was

in Tunisia

but

learning

about the same time the next year,

was

in

Egypt, [

125

]

installed

in

a

village

called

Lataifa,

a

couple

of

hours'

journey

to the south- east of Alexandria.3

In An Antique Land is one,

Amitav Ghosh's books

in English,

among many

in which the novelist dives deep into

books, archives, manuscripts, in quest of the past and its connection with

the

present.

For

instance,

the

British

novelist, A. S. Byatt, in her novel Possession: A Romance. (1990) shows a latter-day version of the romance quest. It is also a thoughtful work about two contemporary academics researching

the

lives

mid-Victorian

romantic

La

this

Motte.

Bradbury

In is

and

romantic

poets,

relations

Randolp

connection,

the

Ash

of

two

and Christine

comment

of

Malcolm

worth-noting:

Through a plot of complicated literary detection, and a multiplication of stories and texts,

the

novel explores the relationship between romance and

reality,

lies

and

truths,

the

Victorian

conception of the romantic self and the modern notion of the self as 'a discontinuous machinery and electrical message-network of vanous desires, ideological forms

Similarly,

beliefs

and

responses,

language-

and hormones and phenomones.4

David Lodge's Small World is a version of the

medieval quest romance, where the

heroes and heroines no

longer go on pilgrimages but on academic conferences.

Agarwalla

says:

t 126 ]

V.

S.

Naipaul's

contains,

like

A

Way in

the

the histories

Madmum and Boimna, Raleigh and his

World

(1994)

of Ben Yiju and

the histories of Sir Walter discovery of Eldorado

In the

early seventeenth century, and Francisco Miranda and his

attempts

to

liberate Venezuela

from

Spanish rule in the early nineteenth century. Both are written as fiction, both subtitled An Unwritten Story,as if they were unused fragments from the narrator's archives Unlike Naipaul who privileges Europe and European ways at the cost of non-European,

Ghosh privileges both African

and Asian ways,

with unjaundiced

eyes

which

increases the value of In An Antique Land.5 In An Antique .Land includes the Granta

as

"The

Imam and the

article "The Slave of Ms.

H.

Indian"

text published and the

in

scholarly

6," published in Subaltern

Studies in 1992, both of which were incorporated into the ethnography.

In An Antique Land (1993),

Dixon says:

In An Antique Land is an archaeology of a great mercantile

civilization that,

from about the

tenth century to the sixteenth century, extended from Fez and Saville in the West, through Cairo and Aden around the Red Sea,

across the Indian

Ocean to Calicut and the Malabar Coast.6 Clifford Geertz observed in his review of the book:

[

127

)

In this mobile, polyglot and virtually borderless region, which no one owned .and no one dominated, Arabs, Jews, Iberians, Greeks, sorts of

Indians, various

Italians and Africans pursued trade,

and learning, private lives and public fortunes, bumping up against one another.

.

. but more or

less getting along, or getting by, within broad and general rules for communication, and the conduct of business.

propriety

It was,

we might

say, a sort of multicultural bazaar. Today this part of the world is divided, like the rest of . the globe, into singular and separated national States.7 ■ Those who have read his Reason,

will

first novel,

realize Amitav Ghosh's

The Circle of

close

knowledge

of

and Intimate relation with the Middle East and the Arab world. In An Antique Land, Ghosh is in quest of the basic traits of hum anity in the two oldest civilizations of the world, that of, Egypt and India, in the 'medieval' and the 'modern'

periods

mini-narrative

of

of the world history. the

stories

Ghosh uses the

of Abraham Ben

Yiju,

a

Jewish merchant who travelled between the Middle East and India during the twelfth century, and of his Indian slave, Bomma.

The material used by Ghosh

called Geniza collation.

for this

is the

so-

Javed Majeed explicates "on it:

He charts the history of this body of archival material from its inception in the geniza storehouse)

{or

of the Ben Ezra synagogue in Cairo [ 128

]

to

its

formation

as

the

Taylor-Schechter

collection at

Cambridge- University.

the basis

the

Yiju's

of

letters

the

that

fragmentary

and their

author pieces

It

remains

references

is of

on Ben

to Bomma

together the personal

narratives of two of the main characters of the text. The

removal

of

this manuscript material

from the Middle East to Europe and later- to the US becomes a Orientalist

paradigm of methods of European scholarship' in

post-colonial period.

the

colonial, and

.

Migration in the text is mainly about the uprooting of bodies of archival material, which becomes measure of the

disruptive

European colonial expansion. text

conveys

There

are

a

strong

also

As

a

effects result,

sense of the

references

to

the

of the

archival. quality of

paper, and the author points out that one of the major commodities of trade in the medieval world between the Middle East and India was paper. For Ghosh, imposition modern by

then,

of what

knowledge'

European

cultural decline and the he

calls

(341-42)

colonial

the

brought

expansion

dispersion of manuscript material.®

[

129

.

]

map

of

the

into being is

to

the

Dixon goes

further in this direction:

Ghosh's

point

fleeting

of

entry

reference

collection of eleventh

into

to

an

this

space

is

a

Indian

slave

in

a

letters written

century.

The

slave,

in

Egypt

whose

in the

name

was

"Bomma" belonged to the Jewish merchant Abraham Ben Yiju. Bomma's first appearance in print was in a letter to Ben Yiju from another merchant, Khalaf ibn Ishaq,

- written in Aden in 1148.9

A "sense of entitlement" led Ghosh to go to Egypt and the USA, following trails left by a Hebrew journal',

Zion,

Letters of Medieval Jewish Traders, translated and edited by

S.

D.

Goitein

of

Princeton

University.

"origin lay in a region that was known as

Ben Yiju's

Ifriya in the

Arabic-speaking world Middle Ages-an area centred around what is now Tunisia."10 Following the migration of traders to

Egypt, . Ben

Yiju

"Synagogue

of the

last until

a

good

also

migrated

Palestians,'

to

Egypt,

the building

joined

the

designed to

seven hundred years after Ben Yiju's

lifetime. "A man of many accomplishments,

a distinguished

calligrapher, scholar and poet,"11 Ben Yiju, a born trader, migrated from Egypt to Aden, sat astride the most important sea-routes

connecting

the

Middle

East

and

the

Indian

Ocean. His paper shows that his acquaintance with a wealthy and powerful trader Madmun ibn ai-Hasan ibn Bundar proves to be a turning point in his life. It is possible that Ben Yiju was introduced to Madmun, by letters of introduction by his

friends and relatives. [

Agarwalla

130 ]

says:

Ghosh, by deft sleight of hand, term

'Geniza,'

come

into

introduces the

a word that is thought to have

Hebrew

from a

Persian

root,

ganj,

meaning 'storehouse'-a common element in placenames in India and Iran,

particularly beloved

of the British who sprinkled it liberally across their Indian.settlements in old anglicized forms like 'Ballygunge' and 'Daltongunge.' Geniza, in the synagogue, of the Jew,

was the depository of writings

intended to prevent the accidental

desecration of any written form of God's name. By another sleight of hand,

he says:

"I found

that some of the usages of the dialect of Lataifa were startlingly close to those of North African Arabic spoken by Ben Yiju." There was startlingly a similarity of certain words and turns of phrase in the Ben Yiju. document with Lataifa and and Nashawy.

Ghosh Cleverly

linguistically

first

brings the ancient Egypt closer to India,

and

then,

the

the

twelfth-century

Egypt

to

contemporary Egypt.12

Agarwalla's point of view is corroborated by Felperin: . as

.

. the past would have to be constructed not empiricism

and

structuralism alike-but as a vital issue:

not

in

a

remote

terms

object-as

of discrete

in

self-containment but

persisting relation. To qualify as political.

of .

discourse, the study of past cultures have import

[

131

]

and must present consequence.

...

genuinely political

historicism

present

the

as

well

diachronic,

as

past:

In sum,

inscribes

it

is

not

a

the only

but at the very least dialogic.13

Dixon goes one step further and says:

It is precisely such a 'dialogic' relation between past and present that Ghosh achieves in In An

Antique

Land.

Its

very

title

is

ambiguous,

suggesting,

that although he is researching the

history

medieval

of

Egypt,

every turn discovers

the

historian

at

continuities between past

and present.14

After before

Ben

1132,

Yiju

settled

as

a

trader,

there was a continuous

between Madmun,

Yusuf

ibn Abraham

in

the

Malabar

exchange of letters

and

Khalaf

Ibn

Ishaq

from Aden and Ben Yiju from India. What is more interesting is the fact that, unlike other traders cum travellers, Abu Said Halfon and Abu Zikri Sijlmasi, Yiju "does not seem to have

travelled back

to Aden

or

Egypt

even

once

in

the

nineteen or twenty years that he was in India."15

Once he had settled In Mangalore, according to a document available,

he

married Ashu,

a

slave

girl.

She

is

not

anywhere In the en tire corpus of Ben Yiju's except in a set of accounts scribbled on the back of one of Madmun's letters.

"It

links

her

to

the

matrilineal

ommunity

of

Nairs, who still form a substantial section of the population of the southern part of the Malabar Coast. "16 The document [

132

]

reveals that in India "concubinage is permitted between everyone, so long as it not with married woman." Indian temple

dancers,

devadasis

in

Sanskrit term,

literally mean 'servant or slave of God.' Their tradition was matrilineal, a situation which inevitably led to the unusual valuing of the

female over the male.

Agarwalla

writes: . . . even Europeans like Domingos.Pacs, Abbe Du b'ois and Beryl De Zoete have' wdtten disparaging comment them.

So

far as history reads,

So on

devadasis were given their due status and prestige during the Chola and Pallava dynasty. They were skilful

in

art

and dance

and they dedicated

their lives to the cause of God by saying regular prayers, chanting hymns and cleaning the temple precincts. When Ben Yiju married Ashu, Europeans were far behind his time, in writing derogatory language about .devadasis' and Indians, following, the writings

of

these

campaigns against, R.

K.

Narayan,

in

his

Europeans,

had started

this System.17 novel

The

Man-Eater.of

Malgudi,Introduces a- devadasi character,

Rangi. Although

never

is

actually

called

a

devadasi,

she

alternately

identified as a "Public woman,"18 "a woman of the temple,"19 "a temple prostitute,"20 all of which epithets point to this South Indian profession and heritage.

[

133 ]

Dixon had earlier argued that Ghosh's quest is a form of commentary that uses the past to speak indirectly about the present.

Ghosh's

essay

in

Subaltern Studies,

Slave of MS.H.6," begins with the

Image of

"The

the Cairo

Geniza systematically raided by Cambridge anthropologists and Orientalists.

It

ends

with

the

Indian

researcher

working in the bowels of an American library: Bomma's story ends in Philadelphia. At the corner of

4th and Walnut,

Philadelphia, an

imposing

mistaken

In the heart of down town

stands, a

sleek modern building,

structure

for

the

that

could

headquarters

' multinational corporation.

of

In fact,

easily be a- great it is the

Annenberg Research Institute, a center for social and historical research;

it owes

its creation

to the vast fortune generated by the first and most popular of America's television magazine, "TV Guide" ... The documents are kept in the Institute's rare book room, the

Building,

equipped with

a great vault in the bowels of steel-sealed and alarms

that

laser-beamed,

need no more

than

seconds to mo bilize whole fleet of helicopters and police cars.Within the sealed interior of this vault are two cabinets that rise out of the floor like catafalques. The documents lie inside them, encased in sheets of clear plastic, within exquisitely crafted covers... [

134 ]

Between the leaves of one of those volumes lies

a

torn

Yiju's.

sheet

of

paper

distinctive

covered

handwriting.

characters are tiny and faint,

Philadelphia

then,

Ben

.

the

.

as though formed

by an unsteady and ageing hand.

In

with

.

cared

.

.

for

by

the

spin-offs of 'Dallas' and 'Dynasty' and protected by the awful might of the American police lies entombed the last testament of the life of Bomma, the

toddy-looking

fisherman

from Tulunad.21

Bomma is referred in some. letters of Ben Yiju to him. They merely business

explain

agent,

a

him as

Ben Yiju's

respected member

Indian

of

his

slave

and

household.

"According to a specialist in history," Barna is "vernacular for

Brahma."

Professor

Vivek

Rai

corrects

'Barna'

for

'Bomma'. The research of Amitav Ghosh on Bomma reveals one more

aspect

of

Indian

culture,

centred

in

and

around

Mangalore, embedded in the Tulu culture of the area. First of all,

there were various groups and clans

Secondly,

despite

diversity

spoke Tulu for one, rules

of

Thirdly,

inheritance they

shared

in

social

in Tuiunad.

hierarchy,

they

and "they also followed matrilinealfor

certain

in the

kinds

worship

of

of

property."22

certain

spirit-

deities known as Bhutas, There were also many untouchables among them. The Indian history speaks of the assimilation of the Dravidians and Aryans, their living in peaceful co­ existence,

in

South

India,

since

time

immemorial.

Ghosh

is quest of religious and cultural roots of the slave. The t 135 ]

Aryans

(Brahmins)

practised the

folk-region

of the high

Sanskritic tradition and the Dravidians followed Bhu tacult, the local form of worship. There were Brahmin temples as well as Bhuta shrines.

There was no contradiction in this, for

to

them

Bhutas

and

of course,

Sanskritic

deities

represented aspects of divine and supernatural power that shaded gently and imperceptively into each other.

Indeed,

under the benign' cover of

that shade, there was a good deal of trafficking between would

the

two

pantheons: .some

occasionally

appear within

Bhuta

deities

the mists

of

high Sanskritism, while others fell from favour . and vanished into the nether world.23

The origin of the name of the slave 'Bomma' likelihood,

is,

in all

a diminutive of 'Berme,' the principal figure

in the ■ pantheon

of

Tuluva

Bhu ta-deities

and this

Tulu

deity, overtime,, with the growth of Brahminical influence, is

slowly assimilated to the Sanskritic deity Brahma'.

Agarwalla points this

Ghosh, that

out:

in a parallel study of history, in

the

time

of

Ben

Yiju,

there

reveals was

no

sectarian and religious clash between the Jews and the Muslims in the Middle- East.

In .Persian

Letters, dismayed by the sectarian nonsense that he

meets

within

religious

matters,

Usbek

concludes, "whatever religion a man lives under, [

136 ]

the

observation

neighbour,

of

the

Laws,

duty to our Parents,

love

of

our

are the chief

Acts of Religion."24 In Middle-East, the Jews were strongly aware of their distinctive religious identity but they, living in the Arabic-speaking world,

simultaneously,

shared the everyday

language of their religious life with the Muslims of-that region. When they

invoked the name

of God in

their-

writings it was usually as Allah, and more often than not their invocations were in Arabic forms, such as lnsha allah and al-hamdul-illah. Distinct though their faith was, it was still a part of the religious world of the Middle East-and that world was being turned upside down by the Sufis, the mystics of Islam.25

The

Sufis

influenced

Judaism as, they influenced the

orthodox Islam in the Middle East. One Jew Sufi, Abraham Maimonides, is known to have remarked once that the Sufis were "worthier disciples of the prophets of Israel than were the Jews of his time."26 In Bomma's time in India, as Ben Yiju's time in the Middle East, Vachanaka; the saintpoet,

taught an egalitarian culture,

creating fraternal

communities of artisans and working people. For the Sufis as for the Vachanakas, the notion of being held by bonds was one of the central metaphors of religious life. "They too draw

some

of

their most

powerful

[ 137 ]

images

from the

institution of slavery: metaphors of perfect devotion and love strung together in an intensely charged, often erotic, spiritual imagery."21 meaning of

slavery,

Therefore, in

the

it

time

is possible that

of

Bomma

and

the

Ben Yiju

means the ties

that bound an apprentice-to a master craftsman, an accountant to a merchant ... as links that were

in

some

small

connections,

way

pledges

enno

bling

human

commitment,

of

in

relationships that could just as well have been • a matter of mere exchange of coinage.28

Bomma is, therefore, a slave and business agent, a respected member of the household of Ben Yiju.

5

Amitav Ghosh is also in quest of the linguistic diversity and similarity of the Ben Yiju's time.

It is likely that

Ben Yiju corresponded with his friends in Aden in Arabic. But the question still nags us: how did Ben Yiju communicate with

Ashu : and

Bomma

or

with

his

business

associates,

hailing 'from various regions of India. There is no evidence that he ever acquired fluency in Tulu or any other South Indian

Language.

South Indian language. Indeed, the linguistic diversity was

formidable.

fact,

The

Arab

to a language called

geographer 'Lariyya,'

Masudi

refers

In

which he describes

as being spoken along much of the length'of the Malabar Coast.

It

is

impossible

that

[

138 ]

"he

was

referring

to

a

pidgin, one that was possibly compounded largely of PersoArabic and north Indian elements, and was in Use amongst merchants and traders all along the coast."29 In the matter of dress,

diversity persists.

Ben. Yiju

continued to wear the customary garments of the. Middle East-robes,

turbans

and the

like.

During the business

tour of Aden, Bomma brought back to India two 'gowns' for Ben Yiju. The people of Malabar, on the other hand, generally left the upper part of their bodies bare,

men

and women alike-their preferred markers of class distinction being ornaments and jewellery rather than articles of clothing.30 Agarwalla comments: Ghosh, once again, by sleight of hand, says that Ben Yiju received delicacies nougat,

such as raisins^

dates and "Middle Eastern cane-sugar.'

India produced palm-sugar but Egypt had pioneered the production of cane-sugar which were exported to many parts of Asia, including India.31 And, the Arabic Word 'sugar')

is

'sukkar'

(hence

the

itself ultimately derived

English from a

Sanskrit Source: today, throughout north India, crystallized sugar is still

[

139 ]

known as misri in

commemoration of traders like Ben Yiju and the tastes they imported from Mars.32

The religious, cultural, social and linguis tic studies, gleaned

from the

letters,

are

images

of

Oriental

life,

fruits of the herculean research Work of Amitav Ghosh.

With, a

view

to

verifying

the

authenticity

of

the

available material, Amitav Ghosh had gone to Tunisia and learnt Arabic;

he journeyed to Egypt in 1980,

in a village called

"installed

Lataifa, a couple of hours journey to

the south-east of Alexandria."33 He was in a trail of the story of the slave of MS.H.6, a story "miraculously preserved in the footnotes of history." It is a strange, world-at once medieval

colourful

and modern-presented in the garb

of a traveller's tale. It is here, in the Egyptian backwater, that Amitav Ghosh sought to retrieve the remnants of the antique

civilization

in both the obese,

villages

gargantuan

good-humoured

skill

guarded

of

"in

landlord;

century.

neighbours:

Shaikh Musa,

elder;

Jabir,

His

Abu Ali,

the

the

guides

gentle

son

of

his and

Ali's

Ghosh's caretaker in Nashawy, who had a ferreting

household

individualistic

twelfth

were his

village

cousin; Amm Taha, rare

of the

out.

.

secrets;"34

Busaina;

.

the

the

Zaghloul,

most

self the

jealously

reliant

and

superstitious

weaver who was very fond of stories and "had a manner of telling

them

that

was

marvellously

faithful

to

the

metaphorical resonances of his chosen craft;"35 Ustz Sabri, the

well-educated

battling,

with

the

and

knowledgeable

other [

young 140 ]

school

neighbourhood,

teacher, against

ignorance,

poverty and exploitation and fashioning post-

Revolution

Egypt

into

the

Islam;

the

college

students,

Ismail and Nabeel; the Rat, the beady-eyed local wit; and the village' Imam with whom Ghosh had a: Ghosh's

journey

pageant

of

Ghosh

to

Egypt

presents

before

Indians

a

characters.

narrates,

anthropologist, manners,

in

serious quarrel.

from

the

view

point

of

a

social

the lives of these people-their dialects,

social and religious customs-and points out the

commonalties

and

differences

between

Medieval

Masr

and

the post-Revolution Egypt. One such thread of commonality is between the dialects of the villages and the language of the manuscripts

he

studies:

Over the next couple of years, as I followed the Slave's

trail

from

library

to

library,

there

were times when:the magnifying glass would drop out of my hand when I and turns

of phrase

came upon certain words

for

I would suddenly hear

the voice of Shaikh Musa informants

in

his

(one

villages)

of the author's speaking

in

the

documents in front of me as clearly as though I had

been

walking

past

the

canal,

on

my

way

between Lataifa and Nashwy.36

Apart

from

the

history of

modern,

developing

Egypt,

there is an account of another Egypt, teeming with poverty, superstition, miracles, blood-feuds,- and exorcism ritualsa world not far removed from the antique world inhabited

[

141

]

by Ben Yiju and Bomma. Although Ghosh found there men like Ustaz

Sabri

who

were

aware

of the

age-old and

intimate

ties between India and Egypt and of the similarity of the problems 'that had been bequeathed to them by their trouble histories,"37 Most Of the villagers had no clear ide.a about the country where Ben Yiju spent seventeen valuable years of his life.

But

it

was

with

these

simple

and

largely . unlettered

fellaheen, who were devoutly religious but had no interests in politics,

that Amitav Ghosh

felt

at

home

since

they

seemed to belong to a "familiar world."38 Tapan Kumar Ghosh comments:

In

spite

people

of

and

their

ignorance

religion-which

of

is

India

evident

barrage of questions they asked him: invariably

about

cow~worship>

the

and her from the questions

burning

of

the dead, circumcision of men and clitoridectomy of women that often nonplussed him-they befriended Amitav Ghosh and provided him with information he needed for his research.39

Someone like Busaina even earnestly proposed to Ghosh: "You had better not go back. Stay here and become a Muslim and maxry a girl from the village.

Persistently,

Ghosh's

active

"40

and

inquisitive

mind

searches for the relevance of Egypt-India relations over the time. Through Ustaz Sabry, Ghosh voices his own opinion:

[

142 ]

Our

countries

were

very

similar,

for

'India,

like Egypt, was largely an agricultural nation. . been

Our countries were poor, ransacked by

imperialists

for they had. and

now both

were trying in similar ways to cope with poverty. .

. our two countries had always supported each

other In the past:

Mahatma Gandhi had come to

Egypt to consult Sa'ad Zaghloul Pasha. later

Nehru

and

Nasser

had

forged

»

. and

a

close

relation.41 "Going Back" is the section which concentrates on the visit to Egypt in 1988. It registers sociocultural change which has

occurred in Egypt

in recent years

under the

spell of the Western influence. People in villages are no longer ignorant about the city glamour. to

the

Iraq-Iran

refrigerators,

war..

In

1988,

washing machines,

It is partly due

the

people

television sets,

Toyota

pick—up trucks,

food processors,

pens and watches.

It is no "surprise that Cairo absorbs

outsiders."42 But

ignorance,

calculators,

have

exotic

fanaticism and superstition

still prevailed. One example of modernity in Egypt is evident in the Imam.

Recognizing that the Imam is a representative of

"Tradition," Ghosh wishes to interview him about his role as a teacher, but he is confounded to find that the Imam has totally lost fait-h in his profession which he now regards as the past.. Instead,

he shows him.a glistering

new biscuit tin: [ 143 ]

Half a dozen phials and a hypodermic syringe lay inside

the box,

cotton wool. learning.

.

.

injections.

nestling .

. .

.

the .

.

That art

in

a bed

of' soiled

is what he had been of mixing

and

giving

There was a huge market for

injections in the village; everybody wanted one.43 . When the Imam realises .that the fieldworker wants to ask about

traditional medicine,

he

avoids the

subject

because the influence of the West has made it shameful: I knew then that he would never talk to me about the remedies he had learned from his father; not merely because he was suspicious of me and my motives,

but also because those medicines were

as discredited in his own eyes as they were in every one.

else's.44

Dixon remarks on this point: As a scholar, Ghosh stands in the same relation to the Imam as Schechter to the Geniza and its riches,

and

their

embarrassment imbrication

are

in the

feelings caused larger

by

of

shame

their

and

common

forcefield of

"the

West. "4S Amitav Ghosh tells us: So there we were, the Imam and 1, delegates from two

superseded civilizations.

[

144

.]

...

At

that

moment,

despite the vast gap that lay between

us, we understood each other

perfectly: we were

both travelling, he and I: we were travelling in the West.

The only difference was

actually been there, Like

Schechter's

that

I had

in person.46

sacking of the Cairo beniza,

this

is

another triumph for the West: I .felt myself a conspirator in. the betrayal of the history that had led me to Nashawy: a witness to the extermination of a world of accommodations that

I had still believed- to be

still alive,

and, in some tiny measures, still retrievable.47 The world of accommodation betrayed Amitav Ghosh in 1988 in the field of religion and its practices. An unique culture,

which had been born of the

subversion of the

categories of Hinduism, Islam and Judaism and was nurtured by the "peaceful traditions of the oceanic trade" and the "pacifist

customs

and

beliefs"48

of

the

merchants-

irrespective of their religious faith-in Malabar and the Middle East, collapsed after the appearance of the maritime powers of Europe on the Indian Ocean. Tapan.Ghosh writes: The arrival of Vasco da Gama on the Indian Coast on May 17, years

after

1498-about three hundred and fifty Ben Yiju

consequent political

left

Mangalore-and the

developments

sounded the

death knell of the strange world of Ben Yiju.

[ 145 ]

.

..

.

The European aggression put an end to the

singular tradition. In 1981,

.

. had flourished.

.

in his visit to Nashawy and Lataifa,

.

,49

Ghosh

felt at home since the people of these two villages seemed to belong to "a familiar world."50 In his visit in 1988 to Egypt, things.have changed. The episode of Amitav's visit to the mowlid of Sidi Abu-Hasira gives us an inkling into the history of development of religious divide. Islam and Judaism have the same Semitic

origin. They have the same

mythological and historical background. They have physical proximity,

close

linguistic and

cultural

bonds-factors

which in a primitive civilization did forge a

kind of

acceptance between the two religious groups as is evident from the story of the Sidi who was born of Jewish parents and reportedly converted to Islam when he - came over to Egypt.

He had followers among these communities.

' But "intertwined histories, and Jewish,

Hindu and Muslim,

Indian and Egypt,

Muslim

had been partitioned long

ago"51 and that is why the Egyptian government officials find it so difficult to understand why an Indian who is neither Muslim nor Jewish should have any interest in the mowlid of Amitav

Sidi Abu-Hasira.. Ghbsh

generalises

the

role

of

religious

extremists in the eighties, In Egypt and India, which were once pluralistic in character and action. Muslim

extremists

contemptuous

of [

in

the 146 ]

the

He says:

Middle

traditional

East

Sufi

are

tariqas

that have so long been a.mainstay within popular Islam;

the political

leadership of the Hindu

extremist movement treats traditional mendicants and ascetics as a source of embarrassment.52 Ghosh narrates an incident that happened to him during his stay in Egypt, probably in 1981; One day a schoolboy of 15 .

.

. said to me: "Do

you know what I did today? I gave my mother and the womenfolk of my house a stern talking-to. I told them they could not go to the burial' ground any more to pray at our family's tombs. The

Image

of

that

adolescent

.

.

.

schoolboy

lecturing his mother on what she could and could not do stayed with me for a long time. . . . This is how religious extremism seems to work.53 Ghosh's

pursuit

of

his

cross-cultural

protagonists

becomes the more meaningful search for "human connections, " and systems of counter- belief capable of accommodating pluralistic

forms

Yiju forges his follows

the

of worship.

In Mangalore,

where

connections with Ashu and Bomma,

trail

of

the

Magarivas-iow

caste

Ben

Ghosh Hindu

fisherfolk whose distinctive identity is registered in a "deity known as the Boobariya-Bhutu, deemed by legend to be the spirit of a Muslim mariner who died at sea." The religious extremists in India,

as

in Egypt narrated by

Ghosh, are trying hard to demolish the age-old concept of religious pluralism.

The walls [ 147 ]

of the Boobariya-Shrine

Ghosh visits in Mangalore are plastered over the posters of a fundamentalist Hindu political

organization.

Leela

Gandhi's comments are worth- noting and relevant: In

the

collision between political

interest

and long standing traditions of pluralism,

the

Magarivas, Ghosh observes, were 'now laying claim to the future.

.

. by discovering a History to

•replace the past." invites

...

In An Antique Land

resistance.54

Amitav Ghosh's main aim in journeying was to see human behaviour

closely.

'In An Antique Land,'

says

Pradeep

Trikha. Thus is a travel book for it records people and their manners.

Ghosh has an artist's eye,

his

perceptions are sensitive and observations are acute.

.

.

. Ghosh sets out to quench his quest

for more interesting fact. His is a "travellers' tale".

.

.

.

Ghosh

has

the

travel

writer's

infallible eye for the quirk that lays bare the soul of a people.55 What Amitav Ghosh observes

is

the

fluidity of the

medieval world and the inflexibility of modern boundaries. The cultures and style of medieval accommodation form a contrast with the rigid "ladder of Development"56 on which nations are linked.This contrast is also evident in the imperceptible merging of folk beliefs with high classical religion in the medieval as opposed to rigid hierarchies [

148 ]

of belief emerging from both Hindu and Muslim militancy in the modern world.

Amitav

Ghosh,-

a

perceptive

and

in

telligent

anthropologist and critic, laments the lost of the fluidity of the medieval world, be it Egypt or India. The trade and commerce

between

India

and

Egypt

as

well

countries brought immense wealth to India. might have made the Europeans, to resort to the use

as

Aden

and

Probably this

especially the Portuguese,

of military force

to take

control

'over trade in the Indian Ocean.

How it happened? Ghosh tries to unravel the plan of the Europeans.

The machination of the

age

old mercantile

The

arrival

prepared

of

the

bond between

Vasco

ground

da

Gama

for

the

in end

Portuguese India

and Middle-East.

India of

spoilt the

the

on

17

old

May world

1498 and

another age had begun in which the crossing of their paths would seem so unlikely that

its very possibility would'

all but disappear from human memory."57

One wonders why Indian Ocean trade came to such a sad impasse, and Amitav Ghosh provides an insight: "In all the centuries in which it had flourished and grown,

no state

or king or ruling power had ever tried to gain control of the Indian Ocean trade by force of arms."58 How perspective and points

of

view

differ

when

one

is

looking

at

the

situation from different cultural vantage points! How the Western

historiographical

record

looks

at

the

unarmed

characater of the Indian Ocean is interesting and diagonally

[

149 ]

opposite to the Indian perspective Western history often represented Indian Ocean trade, a lack,

or failure,

Europe,

with its

Ghosh

further

as Ghosh points out,

"as

one that invited the intervention of

increasing proficiency in war."59

adds:

When a defeat is as complete as was that of,the trading cultures of the Indian Ocean, it is hard to allow the vanquished the dignity of nuances of

choice

and

preference.'

Yet

it

is

worth

allowing for the possibility that the peaceful traditions of the oceanic trade may have been in a quiet'and inarticulate way, rare

cultural

the product of a

choice-one that may have

owed a

great deal to the pacifist customs and beliefs of the Gujrati Jains and Vanias who played such an important part in it.60

Gujrat is known for her peaceful co-existence, traders, violence

the

people

of

Gujrat

cannot

make

predominates.

Ghosh

writes

about

and as

progress

if

a

similar

(of Gujrat),' wrote Tomme Pires,

early in

observation made by European:

'The heathen the

sixteenth

century,

'held that

they must

never

kill

anyone, nor must they have armed men in their company.

If

they were captured and (their captors) wanted to kill them all, they did not resist. This is the Gujrat law among the heathen.61 Thus,

it was due to such unique traditions of

.the trading community that "the rulers of the Indian Ocean [

150

]

ports were utterly confounded by the demands and. actions of

Portuguese."62 The

the

Portuguese

traders to be expelled from Calicut, of the

'Holy Faith'

wanted

all

Muslim

as they were enemies

as conveyed by the King of Portugal.

Pedro Alvarez Cabralled a Portuguese fleet and "delivered a letter from the King of Portugal to the Samudri (Samudraraja or Sea-king),

the Hindu ruler of the city-state of

Calicut"63 to such an effect.

The rulers of Indian ports,

had been long

accustomed to the trademan's rule of bargaining and compromise.

.

. tried time and time again to

reach an understanding with the Europeans-only to discover, choice

was

as one historian put it, between

resistance

and

that the

submission;

cooperation was not offered.'64

After that, all the trade and cultural exchange came to a

tragic

end

at

the

hands

of

the

Portuguese

in

the

1530sPearson provides details about the disappearance of such a fine cultural exchange: "Diu was constantly harassed, and finally the Portuguese were able to build a fort there in

1535.

ports/

Five

years

earlier,

along

with

other

Gujrati

Rander had been thoroughly sacked."65

Amitav Ghosh's journey into Egypt and the archives of medieval

period not

only

enriches

our

knowledge

of

the

people and culture of Egypt, but also throws light on the extortion and rapacity of colonialists,

who ruptured the

age-old cultural exchanges between India and some Middle

t 151 ]

East countries.

Since then,

the colonialist's reflection

fell on the Indian history. It created a wedge between two cultures.

Ghosh's

quest

ends

on

a

note

of

regret

and

anger.

REFERENCES 1.

R.

K.

Dhawan,

Ghosh, ed. 1999), p. 2.

R.

"Introduction," K.

Prestige Books,

Interview with Ranjan Banerjee in Calcutta's Ananda 13-12-1992.

"Introduction,» The Novels of Amitav Ghosh, p.

4. ' Malcolm Bradbury,

5.

(New Delhi:

24.

Bazar Patrika, 3.

Dhawan

The Novels of Amitav

The Modem British Novel pp.

(London:

Seeker and Warburg,

1993),

439-40.

Shyam S. Agarwalla,

"In An Antique Land: A Critical

Study," in The Novels Amitau Ghosh, p. 6.

25.

Robert Dixon,

176.

"Travelling in theWest: The Writing of

Amitav Ghosh," The Joomal ofComrrwnwealth Literature, Vol. x'xxi,

No.l

(1996), pp.

15-16.

7. Clifford Geertz, "Review of Amitav Ghosh's In An Antique Land, J1 The Australon, 25 Aug. 8. Javed Majeed,

1993, p.

30.

"Amitav Ghosh's In An Antique Land: The

Ethnographer-listorian and the Limits of Irony," The Journal of Commonwealth Literature, Vol. xxx, .2 (1995), pp,

45-46.

9. Robert Dixon, p.

16.

10.

In An Antique Land, p. 55.

11.

Ibid., p.

19.

12. Shyam S. Agarwalla, p.

[

165.

152 ]

11. Ibid., p.

19.

13.

Howard

Felperin,

The

Uses

of Canon

(Oxford:

OUP

.

1990),

pp.

14.

Robert

Dixon,

15.

In An Antique Land, p.

16.

Ibid.,

17.

Shyam S.

18.

R. K. Narayan, The Man-Eater of Malgudi, (Harmondsworth

p.

155-56. pp.

18-19. 159.

229. Agarwalla,

Penguin,II(Reprint

p.

166.

1983),

p.

19.

Ibid.,

p.

20.

Ibid.,

pp.

21.

In An Antique Land, pp.

22.

Ibid.,

p.

251.

23.

Ibid.,

p.

252.

24.

Shyam S.

Agarwalla,

p.

168.

25.

In An Antique Land,

p.

261.

26.

Ibid., p.

261.

27.

Ibid., p.

262.

28.

Ibid., p.

263.

29.

Ibid.,

p.

281.

30.

Ibid.,

p.

267.

31.

Shyam S.

Agarwalla,

p.

169.

32.

In An Antique Land,

p.

269.

33.

Ibid.,

p.

19.

34.

Ibid.,

p.

127.

35.

Ibid.,

p.

137.

36.

Ibid.,

p.

105.

37.

Ibid.,

p.

134.

38.

Ibid.,

p.

167.

[

153 ]

115.

115. 149-50. 348-49.

39.

Tapan

Kumar

Ghosh,

"Amitav

Ghosh's

for the

Civilization," in The Novels of Amitav Ghosh, p. 40.

In An Antique Land, p.

41.

Ibid.,

42.

PeterTheroux,

p.

172.

314. "Cairo-Clamorous

National Geographic, No.4, 43.

In An Antique Land, p.

44.

Ibid.,

45.

Robert Dixon,

46.

In An Antique Land, p.

47.

Ibid.,

p;

237.

48.

Ibid.,

p.

287.

49.

Tapan Kumar Ghosh,

50.

In An Antique Land, p.

51.

Ibid.,

52.

Amitav

p.

p.

160.

pp.

Heart

of

Egypt,"

38-69.

192.

193. p.

21.

p.

236.

159. 167.

339.

Ghosh,

"The

Wilson Quarterly Spring, 53.

Ibid.,

p.

54.

Leela

Gandhi,

Challenge," The

Fundamentalist 1995),

p.

22.

23.

"In An Antique Land:

A.

View,"

The

Novels of Amitav Ghosh, p.193. 55.

Pradeep Tale,"

Trikha,

"In An Antique Land:

The Novels of Amitav Ghosh, pp.

56.

In An Antique Land, p. ,200.

57.

Ibid.,

p.

286.

58.

Ibid.,

p.

287.

59.

Ibid.,

p.

287.

60.

Ibid.,

p.

287.

61.

ibid.,

p.

287.

62.

Ibid.,

p.

2.87.

[

154 ]

A Travellers' 190-91.

63.

Ibid.,

p.

64.

Ibid.,

pp.

286. (

65. M. N.

286-87.

Pearson,

Coastal Western India: Studies from the

Portuguese Records (New Delhi: Concept, 1981), p. 129. XXX

(

155 ]

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