Idea Transcript
Bedini 3 Pole Kit Notes From George Wiseman of Eagle-Research.com: NOTE: I helped assemble a kit at the Symposium, but, as of today (November 24/10) have not yet received my kit. I was the first one NOT to receive a kit at the Symposium. They planned for 250 and accepted about 380 people. Notes about assembly of Classic 3 Coil Bedini Monopole Generator/Motor Kit at Coeur d’Alene Symposium on November 13/10 http://pesn.com/2010/11/23/9501730_Bedini_Renaissance_Conference_a_turning_point/ Sitting at table ~ John Mcginnis, ? Gustafson, Lee ? (owner of kit), North Dakota Indian (fiber optic installer). Sorry Guys, I didn’t get your names properly. We WERE one of the first to get our motor running… Whooo Hoooo
Note: this was not our motor, we weren’t allowed to take pictures. I got this off the web. Tips learned as assembly happened at our table: Notes that were not included in the instructions given to us. They may have been on the disk. 1. Mount magnets with North pole facing out. North pole will point North if spun on a sheet of paper; will also attract the south pole of a compass. 2. Shim rotor magnets with something (John Bedini said paper). The magnets need to be secure to the outer rim of the rotor. Movement robs power from the rotor. Maybe that’s what the glue was for. 3. Make sure the o-rings are on the shaft BEFORE you snap together the rotor. You can take the rotor apart by releasing the snap clips a pair at a time (guess why we needed to know that?). 4. Put drive coil position adjuster on the base before installing the rotor stands. 5. Pack core rods tightly and tap them in with a hammer. You want just enough rods so that they stay in the core (too many will split the core). It helps to put them in and push them all down at once. We had some spares in our kit.
Classic 3 Pole Kit Bedini Motor Circuit, redrawn by George Wiseman Eagle-Research.com LEDs 1-12 as ‘load’
D1 Top of coils is outside winding wire (as per correct protocol) Coils wound counterclockwise? (need N Pole facing magnet when energized) S1 = SP4T to prevent arcing should use ‘make then break’ type rotary switch.
Load coil Slave 1 Slave 2
Signal coil 1
Drive coil
4 2
3
2 3
1
Q1 B2
Q2
C1
B2
E3
9 Volt
+
Primary Battery
Q3
C1 B2
E3
9 Volt
+
Charging Battery
C1 E3
6. Remove core wires from the holes in the plastic base of the solenoids before installing the solenoids. The wires are only installed through the base holes for shipping. You might have to unwrap a couple of feet of wire to be able to get the wire out of the holes. 7. Press firmly to install the slave and load coils into their clips. 8. Burn varnish for ½" of the ends of the coil leads. Then back-scrape the resulting carbon off with a sharp edged knife, until you have a shiny copper surface. 9. Mount drive coil up from bottom of base, turn base into slides and lock into the adjuster. Slide adjuster so that drive coil is directly under the axel for initial tests. 10. When starting motor, the rotor needs to be spun up to high speed by hand. May help to fasten the base to the table or have someone else hold the motor still. Circuit board assembly: 1. There was no circuit board in the kit, just some strips of copper coated plastic. 1a. I’d recommend assembly neatly on a circuit board (experimenters board from Radio Shack). 1b. Include voltage test points (wire to clip on test leads). It helps to have connectors on the circuit board that allow amp-meter(s) to be installed (in series with the batteries and coils). 1c. I’d really like to see a circuit board come with future kits. 2. The initial circuit wiring schematic/instructions, that came on the disk, were incorrect in several ways (they may have been corrected by the time you read this). 2a. The Charge and Primary batteries are on the wrong side of the circuit. ‘Move’ them to the opposite side and connect them to the appropriate colors. Except for the series connection between the Charge and Primary batteries, the positives and negatives are NOT actually connected, just shown very close together. (Tom told me this). 2b. The transistor is a NPN, named MPS8099. (As read on device using my flashlight). 2c. The transistor pinout shown is BCE (231), instead of the correct EBC (123). The 3 transistors aren’t actually depicted, just their pinout. (LUC told me this. Tom showed how to correctly wire the transistor(s).) 2d. The top of all the coils is supposed to be the inside wire; the bottom is the outside wire. This is the reverse of ‘normal’ accepted schematic protocol. (Tom told me this.) 2e. There isn’t a DP3T in the kit, just a SPST. I used it to shut off the current through the signal coil of the drive solenoid. 2f. There was no potentiometer in the kit; so a person needs to experiment to find the best resistance value, for fine tuning. I understand that once the motor is running, the incandescent light (included in the kit) can be used (in series with, or in place of, the on/off switch) to reduce the current in the signal coil to increase efficiency.
I understand that the potentiometer can replace the incandescent bulb to fine tune or optimize efficiency. Using a 4 way rotary switch would be nice, to choose beween (1)off, (2)on, (3)on through potentiometer and (4)on through incandescent bulb. 3. I think it would help to wind the individual solenoid wires together, once they leave the coil, to prevent cross induction of the magnetic fields. Just be careful to mark the inside and outside wires before winding or it’ll be near impossible to figure them out. Have the wires long enough to neatly come to your circuit board. 4. I found it handy to make the LED’s (load that came with the kit) into a long string, with test points so we could jumper any number of them, to vary the ‘load’. Be sure to connect them correctly, they are polarity sensitive. My load ideas: A diode (IN4001) should be wired in series with the LEDs, because LED’s have very little resistance to reverse current and they’ll burn out in an AC environment. Maybe use a full wave bridge rectifier to make use of both ‘halves’ of the voltage pulses; because this voltage is AC. Maybe wire the LEDs as a full wave bridge rectifier. Maybe wire the LEDs so that half are one polarity and half are the other (with solenoid wired in center), so catch both halves of the sine wave. Maybe wire diodes and capacitors as a voltage doubler, to efficiently catch both sides of the wave and to double DC voltage for use in single load. Load idea in Kit instructions: Charge a capacitor, with a voltage monitoring circuit, to dump excess voltage into the Primary battery. Why not just wire a voltage doubler to charge the Primary battery? 5. Monitoring the charging rate of the ‘charge’ battery worked well to help us discover the optimum adjustment of the drive coil position. 6. It would help to have the circuit board and batteries in a stand/box/container that would allow easy changing of batteries and neat/easy testing/tuning of the circuit. 7. I’m thinking that the output of the assembly could be doubled if add another drive coil (in place of the load coil) and two more slave coils in the empty brackets; these to have their own circuit. 8. I’m thinking all the coils could be independent if each was set up as a separate drive coil. This would allow: Higher frequency charging pulses to the Charge battery, with less current. Lower current draw from Primary battery. Full control of the timing by using Hall Effect; adjust the pulse timing, not the coil position. Placement-angling of the rotor and drive solenoids to maximize core attraction and solenoid repulsion effect. Use of even-even magnet:solenoid geometry to reduce lockup (as per Bill Muller ~ Al Francour). 9. I’m thinking the charging circuit would be more efficient if the diode from the collector to the Charging battery was replaced with a full wave bridge rectifier. Then the Charging battery would receive BOTH sides of the sine wave created by the drive coil.
10. The Load coil could, with a full wave bridge rectifier, also charge the Charging battery or the Primary battery. It is fully load/voltage isolated and ‘floating’ relative to those circuits. Questions: 1. Best core distance to magnets? 2. Why the aluminum disks in the rotor? 3. Check solenoid magnetic polarities (thumb rule) 4. It looks like the signal coil is electrically in reverse to the drive coils. It ‘starts’ from ground state and the drive coils ‘start’ from positive. Does activating the current in the drive coils stop the current in the signal coil? Tests: 1. Record amperages from all coils and batteries. 2. Use Oscilloscope to tune pot. for highest/sharpest voltage spikes. 3. Experiment with Hall Effect sensor and MosFets to increase efficiency. Can use 555 to limit Drive pulse and to quickly shut off MosFet. 4. Check magnetic field rise from battery, compared to magnetic field caused by rotor magnets. Magnitudes and timing. 5. Check currents and voltages entering base of transistor(s) 6. Would magnet:solenoid orentation help (angle like Perendev)? 7. Magnetic shielding? 8. Make every solenoid an independent drive coil. 3 Pole Bedini Motor Function (I think) The NPN transistor base is normally grounded (through base diode) and therefore normally OFF. The signal coil (in bifilar drive solenoid) is what turns on the transistors; through power switch (and/or pot. and/or incandescent bulb) though the transistor base resistors. It turns on with ‘positive’ voltage/amperage and turns off when voltage goes negative (current flow stops). Given: Magnets spinning past the core make the current:voltage positive and negative. As the rotor magnet approaches the drive solenoid core… As the rotor magnet is attracted to the cores of the Drive and Slave coils, it induces a negative voltage:current in the coils and at the base of the transistors, (inducing a south pole field opposing the north pole of the magnet). The magnet will be attracted to the solenoid core iron in spite of the South Pole field, essentially making the coil core ‘an extension’ of the Rotor magnet. The induced ‘negative’ voltage:current (from the signal coil) flows past the transistor bases, through the grounding diode and ‘shorts’ back to the coil. This keeps the power (from the Primary Battery) to the drive and slave solenoids off by preventing current to flow from the transistor collectors to the emitters. As the rotor magnet moves over the drive solenoid core… The coil’s magnetic field fully attaches to the rotor magnet and the ‘negative’ voltage:current stops flowing.
As the Rotor magnet tries to leave the Coil Cores… The voltage-current in signal coil (and the Drive and slave coils) is reversed, to positive which turns on the current to the transistor bases, the transistors turn on and the Primary Battery feeds current into the drive and slave coils; which are induced to make a North Pole magnetic field, repelling the rotor Northpole magnet. This is what causes a current drain on the primary battery. Care needs to be taken to reduce this phase to the minimum. Learn how to shut off base current quickly! After the rotor magnet leaves (is repelled from) the drive solenoid core… The magnetic field saturates, causing the signal coil to lose voltage:current and voltage to the transistor bases is reduced, shutting off the transistors. The remaining magnetic field then causes a voltage spike from the drive and slave coils; sending a charge to/through the charge battery (or if it isn’t in place, through the neon bulbs). The neon bulbs are there to prevent voltage from going too high and burning out the transistor.
Tidbits From John Bedini . Radiant energy is particulate -- two orders of magnitude smaller than electrons. 0. Output radiant energy is longitudinal, and not picked up by regular electrical measuring equipment, which only measures transverse waves. 0. The idea is to have no current flow. The more current, the less radiant energy. Current is inefficient energy. 0. Helosolaris ---- model the SG with vizimag, you will see why it works. Power on(The N pole leaving register is repulsed - the incoming magnet is attracted from behind, the S pole, through the inner rotor.) Two for one, hooray! Set your coil up to do this -- The magnets north pole is attracted into register unpowered, if you power the magnet in (N-S poles) then more work is required to remove it(electron momentum/current in the coil), just after register the sine wave(voltage) goes negative in the coil(not really it is electron pileup) your meter only says it goes negative. If you added no power the sine wave is symetrical, you add power to the negative portion of the sine wave - two for one again! The field then collapses adding momentum to incoming magnet with no backdrag on the one leaving(relative distance), simple :) In magnetic systems like this remember timing and field strength determine the field geometry more than anything, DO NOT overpower the coil, DO NOT get the magnets too close to the coil. And no magical zeropoint required, how about that.
Replies from Peter Lindemann, to 3 Pole Kit motor builders http://www.energeticforum.com/renewable-energy/6516-renaissance-november-workshop-convention11.html #305: Great to hear you have your motor kit running. The system is designed to run from a small 12 volt, 7 amp-hour battery, charge a capacitor and dump that into a different 12 volt, 7 amp-hour battery. Meanwhile, when it gets up to speed, a whole string of LEDs light up from the extra generator coil that is putting out about 24 volts. When you have the whole thing working, I'll tell you how to modify it so it will run itself, light the LEDs and charge the back battery faster than the front one goes down. #311 OK, here's the deal (or at least one set of possibilities). The idea is this. Once you have the basic system recycling the electricity from the front batteries to the back batteries while running the motor, any mechanical energy produced is the major portion of the "free energy" created by the machine. The extra generator coil can then "convert" this free mechanical energy back into "new" electricity, or electricity that was not in the system before. The way the system is wired is to take 100% of this "new" electricity and use it to light some LEDs. The voltage of that system is about twice the voltage of the batteries, or about 24 volts. So, if you light only about 12 volts worth of LEDs instead of the full amount, you now have about 12 volts worth of output to play with. This can be applied to either the input battery to offset the battery drain at the front, or added to the capacitor and dumped to the battery in the back along with the rest of the recovered energy from the coils. Either way will give you the bias you need to run the system, light some LEDs and charge the back battery faster than the front runs down. #326 Think it Through..... Gentlemen, (and Ladies) The motor kits delivered at the conference, and the predecessor designs, are all capable of indefinite operation. All of the necessary components are there. But, as with all things in this world, everything must be optimized. First, the 9 volt batteries supplied with the kit are for demonstration purposes. They must be replaced with some small, 12 volt rechargeable batteries. 4 or 7 amp-hour gel-cells are preferred. Second, the generator coil is designed to produce about 24 VAC at about 5,000 rpm. This final voltage (whatever it is for your model's top speed) determines how many LEDs you can light ABOVE the battery level. Back popping the front battery is the most difficult method to get to work, although a workable method for off-setting the input was clearly explained in the Electric Motor Secrets thread and has been there for years.
Charging a cap on the back end with both the recovery from the motor coils AND the excess from the generator coil (after lighting a few LEDs) is the simplest and most reliable method. Free running bearings, choosing the right number of LEDs based on the operational "top speed" of your system, running the system at "room temperature" so the batteries charge efficiently, etc, etc, etc,.....including everything John has been harping on for years..... are all necessary aspects of an operational success story! Look at what John just posted in the "Electricity Watson Machine" thread. Its your own way of thinking that is stopping you. Quit trying to build a "self-running machine" and start closely observing and working with the machine that is in front of you. Go through each system in the machine and find out it's range of activity. Chart them and take notes. Let the machine "teach you the truth" about itself and how well it embodies what "you believe" it embodies. When you find differences between "what you thought it was doing" and "what it is really doing", make adjustments. When you are done with this process, it WILL be running itself. We have told you EVERYTHING!!!!!!!!! Beyond this, you must learn it for yourself. Peter Unveiling the 14 volt Ferris Wheel http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VYtUL8OU7s4&feature=sub I couldn’t stay for the second day, so I didn’t see this…
How do Transistors Work? http://www.satcure-focus.com/tutor/page4.htm Thousands of textbooks have been written to explain electronics and I haven't found a single one that can explain the operation of a transistor. They all make it seem so complicated! Let's see if I can do better. Here is a picture of a transistor. My transistor runs on water current. You see there are three openings which I have labelled "B" (Base), "C" (Collector) and "E" (Emitter) for convenience. By an amazing coincidence, these also happen to be the names used by everyone else for the three connections of a transistor! We provide a reservoir of water for "C" (the "power supply voltage") but it can't move because there's a big black plunger thing in the way which is blocking the outlet to "E". The reservoir of water is called the "supply voltage". If we increase the amount of water sufficiently, it will burst our transistor just the same as if we increase the voltage to a real transistor. We don't want to do this, so we keep that "supply voltage" at a safe level. If we pour water current into "B" this current flows along the "Base" pipe and pushes that black plunger thing upwards, allowing quite a lot of water to flow from "C" to "E". Some of the water from "B" also joins it and flows away. If we pour even more water into "B", the black plunger thing moves up further and a great torrent of water current flows from "C" to "E". So what have we learned?: 1. A tiny amount of current flowing into "B" allows a large amount to flow from "C" to "E" so we have an "amplification effect". We can control a BIG flow of current with a SMALL flow of current. If we continually change the small amount of water flowing into "B" then we cause corresponding changes in the LARGE amount of water flowing from "C" to "E". For example, if we measure the current flow in gallons/minute: Suppose 1 gallon/minute flowing into "B" allows 100 gallons/minute to flow from "C" to "E" then we can say that the transistor has a "gain" or "amplification" factor of 100 times. In a real transistor we measure current in thousandths of an Ampere or "milliamps". So 1mA flowing into "B" would allow 100mA to flow from "C" to "E". 2. The amount of current that can flow from "C" to "E" is limited by the "pipe diameter". So, no matter how much current we push into "B", there will be a point beyond which we can't get any more current flow from "C" to "E". The only way to solve this problem is to use a larger transistor. A "power transistor". 3. The transistor can be used to switch the current flow on and off. If we put sufficient current into "B" the transistor will allow the maximum amount of current to flow from "C" to "E". The transistor is switched fully "on". If the current into "B" is reduced to the point where it can no longer lift the black plunger thing, the transistor will be "off". Only the small "leakage" current from "B" will be flowing. To turn it fully off, we must stop all current flowing into "B".
In a real transistor, any restriction to the current flow causes heat to be produced. This happens with air or water in other things: for example, your bicycle pump becomes hot near the valve when you pump air through it. A transistor must be kept cool or it will melt. It runs coolest when it is fully OFF and fully ON. When it is fully ON there is very little restriction so, even though a lot of current is flowing, only a small amount of heat is produced. When it is fully OFF, provided we can stop the base leakage, then NO heat is produced. If a transistor is half on then quite a lot of current is flowing through a restricted gap and heat is produced. To help get rid of this heat, the transistor might be clamped to a metal plate which draws the heat away and radiates it to the air. Such a plate is called a "heat sink". It often has fins to increase its surface area and, thereby, improve its efficiency. This is the symbol used to represent an "NPN" transistor. You can distinguish this from a "PNP" transistor (right) by the arrow which indicates current flow direction.
Getting Technical The difference between PNP and NPN transistors is that NPN use electrons as carriers of current and PNP use a lack of electrons (known as "holes"). Basically, nothing moves very far at a time. One atom simply robs an electron from an adjacent atom so you get the impression of "flow". It's a bit like "light pipes". In the case of "N" material, there are lots of spare electrons. In the case of "P" there aren't. In fact "P" is gasping for electrons. Clear as mud isn't it? OK, bear in mind that the Base is only a few atoms in thickness - almost a membrane - so any electrons allowed into the base "membrane" act as a catalyst to allow other electrons to break through from emitter to collector. Imagine a pool of water near the edge of a table. It rests there with surface tension holding it in place. Now put one tiny drop of water on the table edge and let it touch the pool of water. Suddenly, the pool drains onto the floor as gravity takes over! Your tiny drop provided the catalyst to get it moving. So the base electrons do a similar job for the "pool" of electrons in the emitter - helped by the "gravity suction" of the power supply voltage on the collector. A transistor doesn't "increase" current. It simply allows power supply current to pass from collector to emitter* - the actual amount depends on the (small) current allowed to flow into its base. The more electrons you allow into the base, the more (x 100) that flow from collector to emitter . I put "x 100" because that is the typical gain (amplification factor) of a transistor. For example, one electron put into the base could allow 100 to escape from collector to emitter. The best way to understand this is to get your soldering iron and start building! * The purist might argue that current flows from emitter to collector - dependent on whether we are discussing electron flow or "hole" flow. I don't want to get involved in the physics of current flow. You don't need to know this to design a circuit. * This discussion relates to Bipolar transistors. Other types of transistor such as "FETs" (Field Effect Transistors) are in common use and work in a slightly different way in that the voltage applied to the "gate" terminal controls the current flowing from "cathode" terminal to "anode" terminal. In effect, a FET is simply a semiconducting (one-way) resistor whose value is controlled by the voltage applied to its "gate".
* OK, having told you all that, I now have to point out that the above description is basically WRONG! What I've described is based on what is called "the beta model" of a transistor. A transistor actually relies on base voltage input - the current input is incidental. If you are at college, your teacher will explain this fully with lots of mathematical equations that will let you design anything at all. However, my description will let you design simple circuits with a minimum of effort and they will almost certainly work. Unless you are going to take up design as a profession, this is all you need to know.
Magnetic coil polarity http://www.tpub.com/neets/book2/1b.htm http://www.tpub.com/content/doe/h1011v1/css/h1011v1_56.htm Magnetic Field and Polarity of a Coil Bending a straight conductor into a loop has two results: (1) magnetic field lines become more dense inside the loop, and (2) all lines inside the loop are aiding in the same direction. When a conductor is shaped into several loops, it is considered to be a coil. To determine the polarity of a coil, use the left-hand rule for coils (Figure 23).
Figure 23 Left-hand Rule for Coils Adding an iron core inside of a coil will increase the flux density. The polarity of the iron core will be the same as that of the coil. Current flow is from the negative side of the voltage source, through the coil, and back to the positive side of the source (Figure 24).