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book needs anapology it is one to m yself fo r t a king the p u blic at l arge into the confidence of che r ished recollections The writing was a dive r sion fro m studies in a qu ite di fferent di rection an d letting my pe ngo while living agai n the h appy hou rs I spent betwee nard u o u s duties with the be au tifu l monuments of J av a s p ast I did nothi n g b u t seek my own ple as u re Sho u ld it t u rn o u t th at d white my pe rson al impressions given in bl ack an ple ase others too—so m u ch the better I n an y c ase they must be taken for wh at they are : a beguilement of lone moments of leis u re Whoever find them read able they will not s atisfy I h Ope a cert ain cl ass of critics ; those I me an who extend the p alt ry ru le of m u tual admir atio n ou s at n n u! n cm m ae [ es os am i s to an p r i t gu e n y “ w n a n field they cl aim thei r o d of whom to be dis p raised were no sm all praise Desi ro u s I m u st con fess to stimul ate thei r fl attering dis app rov al I h asten to admit in adv ance my m any shortcomings they will doubtless oblige me a fu ll list of which I F t h is
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M O N U M E N TA L J AVA
with in du e p rocess of censo rio u s comment M y wo rk sets u p no p retence to completeness the re is d B u ddhist no fu ll en u me ratio nof all the H ind u an temples known by thei r rem ains ; the re a re no meas u rements n no st atistics o technic al det ails as D u tch a g re at recommend ation to m y mind E ast I ndi an statistics go I am not g u ilty of an ambitio u s a ttempt to en rich the wo rld with a n ex h au stiv e t re atise o nancie n t J av anese architect u re d sc u lpt u re— far be it from me to h arbo u r s u ch an an au d acio u s design ! I discl aim even the p res u mption to aspi re at being cl assed as a u sefu l compan ion o n a visit to the isl an d ; I deny most emph atic ally th at I i ntend to swell the disq u ieti n g n u mbe r of to u rists v ade mec u ms al ready u p fo r s ale cl amo u ring for recog n d fi or r z é zle a zczu ition an sco res m o re comi n g ! Be they s u ffi cient o r ins u fficient q u ali el t at iv g to inc re ase thei r y spe aking I am not goi n q u antity So m u ch fo r wh at this book is n Wh at it is ot I cou ld not help m aking it choosing from the m ate ri al sto red in my memo ry ; reliving as fancy dictated i n long no rthe rn winte r evenings the s u nny spells between 1 8 7 4 an d 1 9 0 3 when I might c all J av a my home ; res u ming my w alks in the ch ar ming isl and ple as ance of the E ast fain to le ave the congested m ain ro ads an d dispo rt myself along b y p aths an d u nfreq u ented l anes w here sol ace an d repose await the we ary w ande rer The u nde r taking somewh at too confidently indic ated by the title tempted to excu rsions off the be aten histo ric al .
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P R E FA C E
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geog raphic al an d arch aeologic al t racks w h ich pe rh aps will cont ribu te to a bette r u n de rstanding of the mon u ments desc ribed i nthei r p rope r setting thei r rel ations to n at u ral sce n e ry an d n ative civilis a tion b u t ce r t ainly do n o t tend to confo rmity with the reg u l ation style of compositio n s of the kin d In voking the aid of G anes a the s ag acio u s g u ide co u nten ance r of poo r mo rt als in c re ative th roes fo r th a nk H e aven ! the fever of p rod u ctio nis indissol u bly o n e with the ang u ish th at heighte n s its delights — I neve r hesit ated in letting the ide a of self g ratifi cat io np rev ail eve nwhen the q u estion of ill u st ration arose afte r the pl an h ad ripened of i n v it ing ind u lgent re ade rs to p art ake I n this respect too I st ru ggled free from anxio u s delibe ratio n é t w zr d wamg lezszen And i e ! ée a e n Wer g af z u v G anes a aiding the followi n g k aleidoscopic vie w of the l an d I love so well w as the res u lt of my ail delicio u s t rav Looking fo r the flowe rs i nthe ill kept garden of J av a the delinq u e n cies of the gardene rs co u ld not be ignored an d he re I to u ch the u nple as ant side of the rec re ation I so u ght especi ally dis ag ree able when proposi n g to st range rs th at they sho u ld sh are ; b u t a pict u re needs sh a de as well as ligh t to become i ntelligible And to p aint t ru e to life the pict u re of D u tch E ast I ndi an p assiv i ty (activity only in v and alism ! ) reg arding t re as u res of art i n conve rtible d light i nto c ash sh ade o u ght to be p reponde rant an releg ated to the s u bordin ate pl ace of a little st ar glimmering dimly in the d arkness a little st ar of ,
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M O N U M E N TA L J AVA hope fo r the fu t u re Disinclined h owever to spoil my ple as u re by dwelli n g on the ten eb ro u s gene ral I aspect of gove rnment al arch aeology in the p ast h ave no mo re th an me n tio n ed s u ch disgracefu l inci d om itted e g all dents as the M e n do o t sq u abbles an ce to s u ch l u dic ro u sly he ated cont rove rsies refe re n as th at abo u t the é a/a m aé a m ve rs u s the g a r u a a exh au stive of the ene rgy which n a a o r n a ment g the offici ally le arned might h ave employed to so m u ch g re ate r adv ant ag e by resc u ing the vene rable d willfu l temples they fo u ght ove r from dec ay a n demolitio n The neglect of the ancient mon u ments of J av a g sho rt of sc and alo u s the evil effects h as been nothi n of the h abit u al l ang u id detachment of the colo n i al au tho rities fr om the b u siness they are s u pposed to look afte r bei n g in thei r case i n tensified by acts of dil apid ation which even a Gove rnment cent u ries b ack on the ro ad of enlightenment wo u ld h ave o t to spe ak of do w n r ight pl u nder a n checked n d theft The mo re hono u r dese rve men like J u ngh u hn amo n d Ro u ffae r among the still g the dead an livi n g who lifted thei r voice against the intole rable negligence which h astened the ru in of some of the finest existi n g specimens of H ind u an d B u ddhist a rchitect u re At l ast in 1 90 1 anA rch aeologic al Commissio nwas appointed whose l abo u rs we re di rected by Dr J L A B ra n des thei r he ad an d S th di t i d m th nthi t n n by t i g th g M j i n Em p q t d by Gibb n A n tiq m d i m di ip t nt ti ; t t liq id p t m gm di n p i t Hin i m n it t .
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P RE FA CE
xi
sou l After his reg retted de ath i n 1 90 5 he was succeeded by D r N J Krom w ho has no e asy task in farming the sp ark st ru ck by his predecesso r from the h ard flint of offici al lazkser — al/er into a steady bright fl ame of real continuous solicitu de for the cou n t ry s antiquities Antiqu ities except when so l d do not bring money to the exchequer an d the Dutch Gove rn ment s most holy coloni al traditions are di amet ric ally oppose d to expenses withou t promise of immedi ate pec u ni ary profit I f sympathies in m atters alien to th at prime purpose are mi raculously aroused s u ch d interest revealing itself at the very bes t by fits an starts to serve ambitiou s schemes soon fl ags an d dies E spe ci ally in D u tch E ast I ndi an enth u si asm for enterprises fin anci ally u ncomm e nd abl e the ad age holds good th at tou t lasse tou t casse tou t passe The efforts of the Arch aeologic al Commission can be traced only at the respectfu l d istance of at le ast a co u ple of ye ars the drowsy dignity of red t ape ism putting as l ong a space as possible between the d the vulgar gaz e of the uno ffi ci ally curious an o ffi ci al accounts of things accomplished meetly compi l ed arranged amended corrected revise d pu rged p added an d bolste red up by the editing fice s at experts of succes sively the ci rc u mloc u tion o fl B atavi a B uiten z org an The reports d the H ague p u blished in this m anner wh atever they re pre sent as h av ing been done lay no stress of co u rse wh at h as been left u ndone upon the archi u pon still suffered to t e ctu ral m arvels u nprovided for .
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M O N U M E N TA L J AVA
x ii
d demolished the crumble aw ay to be st ripped an v aluable statuary an d orn aments to be c arried o ff pieceme al by unsc ru pu lo u s collectors the l o wer priced stones they left sc u lptured or not by the d factories builders of priv ate d wellings an of d emb ankments Government bridges d ams an The illustrations inserted to expl ain imperfect though it b e the ch arm of the temple r u ins I tre ated of are reprodu ctions of photographs taken for the Dutch E ast I ndi an A rch aeologic al Service anE s at I obtained from M ess rs Ch arls an d v d Weltevreden by co u rtesy of Dr N J Krom an of photographs taken fo r th e Centru m Company at d the l ate h u is an B atavi a an d by M r C N ie u w e n Cephas Sr at J ogj akarta The wo rk of restoration be appreci ated from the photo prints of the can di : Man di P awon an d with respect to the Man Me n do o t an d Bo ro B u do o r from those facing pp 2 1 5an d 2 80 ; they are the n u mbe rs 2 4 an d 40 on the list of the illustrations an d I owe them to M ajor T v an Erp also throu gh the intermedi ary of Dr K rom My indebtedness for the text so far as it does not rest on pe rsonal obse rv ation an d inform ation obt ained in the localities r efe rred to is a very l arge one to m any au tho rs on m any subjects sep arately specifi ed in the notes Conce rning the historic al p arts I beg le av e to st ate th at my re adings on controversial points h ave been determined by a c areful sifting of the most accept able theories adv anced at the risk of c ritics of the st amp al luded to proving my preferred records abso l ute l y in ad ,
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M O N U M E N TA L J AVA
blessings hidden in the womb of time when they h ave tried to re ad the riddle of her ch ildren s destiny in Boro B u do o r ,
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J AVA S ancient mon u ments are eloq u ent evidence of th at inn ate consciousness of something beyond earthly existe n ce which moves men to p ropiti ate the p rinciple of life by s ac r ifice in temples as glo rio u sly divine as mort al h and canraise Fe ar howeve r especi ally where B u ddhism mo u lded their thought b y contempl ation intent u pon abso rption of self ente red little into the religio nof the child ren of this pe arl of isl ands N at u re be au tifu l almighty n atu re g u ided them an d their wo rk ; even the te rro r inspired by the cosmic ene rgy throbbing feet by freq u ent volc anic u phe av als u nde r their de aling destr u ction an d de ath flowered into promise of new joy th anks to the cons u mm ate art of their bu ilders an d sc u lptors whose m aste r minds con d g finishing with randly devising boldly an ce iv in g .
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M O N U M E NTA L J AVA
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el aborate orn ament emph asised most c u nningly the lofty yet lovely m ajesty of their n atu ral s u rro u ndings They m ade them im ages of the S u preme B eing in his di ffe rent aspects an d symbolised attrib u tes free from the abject dre ad which domin ated his wo rship by other e arthlings of his fashioning in othe r climes whose notion of All Powe r w as mo re one of Ven an d They lived fi c ie n c ce th an of All S u f e an y g meditated an d wro u ght imp ressing thei r ment ality d u pon the m ate ri al world given for thei r u se ; an so they c reated m arvels of be au ty developed an architectu re which belongs pre eminently to their l u xu r i ant soil u n der the cle ar bl u e of their sky in the b rilli ant light of thei r su n T ru ly high art ever shows a n atu ral fitness as we canobse rve in o u r gothic c athedrals in the cl assic rem ains of H ell as incl u ding those of M agn a G rae cia the temples of Poseidoni a Egest a an d A c rag as the the atres of Sy rac u se an d T au ro men iu m g ates O pened to the splendo u r of he aven d earth by the u nd y ing vi rt u e of mo rt al ende avo u r an Other co u nt ries othe r revel ations of the divine essence in h u m an effo rt b u t not even the sh rines of I ndi a as I c ame to know them bo rn of a common origin with J av anese religio u s st ru ct u res i n almost simil ar conditions of clim ate physic al needs mo ral aspi rations c an equ al their st ately grande u r b al anced by exqu isite elegance c alm yet p assio n ate alw ays in keeping with the dignified repose of l andsc apes which at an y moment m ay h ave thei r ch arms dis solved i ne arthq u akes fire an d ashes Angkor ,
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been a good de al of controversy respecting the date u p to which the inhabitants of J av a dev e loped themselves on lines of aborigin al tho u gh t before the e correctly spe aking advent of the H indus or mor before H ind u infl u ences became prevalent I n fact there is h ard l y an y question regarding the history of the isl and an d its civilis ation before the white conq u e rors c arried everything b e fore them which has not given rise to controversy an d m a ny im portant points are still ve ry far from being settled perh aps they never will be I n the face of s u ch d wh at dis agreement it behoves us to go warily an follows here afte r rests b u t on arg u ments pr o an d con tr a deemed most pl au sible an d fo u nded p rinci p ally o u the accounts of the babaas or J av anese ‘ chronicles always li able to correction when new e w wordy b attles in thei r w ak e discove ries with n bring new light—if they do ! Ru de attempts at rock c arving ne ar K arang Bolong S uk abu mi an d Chitape nChe ribon are ascribed by some to artists of the pre H indu period Professor J H C K ern s re ading of insc riptions on four monoliths in B atavi a s of a cert ain king Pu rn av arm anprove s g lo rifi cat io n th at the first H indus of whom we h ave knowledg e in J av a were Vaishn av as Then comes a bl ank of several cent u ries while they m ade their way to d E ast J av a where however when the Cent ral an St i tly p kin g y D B AN D E inhi nt t hi t anl ti nr th P t n th B k f th Ki n f T m p l n d M j p hi t (p g th i n ly nb b d t m l f m whi h ivd it finl d ti nb t Th b od th th gh th y m pit l ti n f th 7 n t in y g n l hi t y f J v t t f l l fli f t in l t d p i d a th babad S ak t Dip n M n Pak Al m n t g gk n g ,
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T H E CO U N T RY A N D P E O P L E
5
veil is partly lifted the S aiv as predomin ate almost sw amping the riv al sect Fa H ien the Chinese pilgrim w h o visited the isl and in 4 1 2 or 4 1 3 h aving s u ffered shipw reck on its co ast spe aks of Brahm anism ains being i n o r i o u s an d m a king converts but compl fl of B u ddhism as still of sm all accou nt among the n at i ves The strangers arrived in i nc re asing n u mbers on the hospit able sho res of the good an d genero u s whose kindly reception of those n eg r z j aw a is m arvellously well rep resented on advent u re rs t wo of the sc u lpt u red sl abs of the Boro B u do o r a t ale of resc u e from the d ange rs of the s e a a pict u re of the p ast an d a prOph e t ic vision of the welcome extended in l ate r d ays also to M u ham d Ch risti ans — to be how rep aid ! The s an m ad an H ind u s acq u itted thei r debt of gratitu de by b u ilding energy to q u ote J ames Ferg u s an d c arving with an son an d to anextent nowhe re s u rp assed in thei r n ative l ands dignifying their new home with im d civilis ation perish able reco rds of their art an ad u d eng an The V e n inscriptions of the D i the K i gg leave no do u bt th at the oldest m anifestations of H indui sm in Central an d West J av a were intim ately d th at the first strong infu sion of the an rel ated imported creed m u st h ave operated u ntil 8 50 S aka according to an A D I n S k a a 6 A D 54 ( ( t he r u ler of inscription found at Ch an al K ad u gg d s acrificed to the l and bore a S anskrit n ame an ‘ 00 Siv a erecting a Zzn An inscription of a 7 g Embl m fS i v f tifyin g vi ility ,
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S ak a (A D fo u nd at K al asan J ogj akarta is B u ddhistic an d confirms the evidence of m any other records c arved i n stone an d copper of the oldest J av anese literature l ast but not leas t of th e temple ruins all concurring in this th at the two the adoration of religions flourished side by side the B rahm an t ri ad led by S iv a acquiri n g a tinge of the beatit u de derived from em ancip ation through ea/ea annihil ation of self ; B u ddhism in its yo u nge r fl becoming strongly impregn ated with a form y an S iv ai sm to the point even of endowing the Adi s B u ddh a in his five more tangible pe rso n ifi cat io n with spouses an B etween two c u rrents of d sons faith e ach imbu ed with the m ale an d fem ale principle in a country where the problem of sex will not be hid it depended often u pon a trifle what kind of emblem atic sh ape the sc u lptor was going to give to his block of stone whether he ‘ would carve a li n i a D hyan i B u ddh a g a or a y on a B o dhisatv a a T ara or one of her H indu peers Subsequ ent waves of immigration the Mu ham m adan inv asion the Ch risti an conquests did little to no u rish the artistic flame ; on the contrary they damped artistic ardou r H ere anent o u r historical d at a are somewh at more precise The I sl am t akes i ts w ay to Sum atra in the w ake of t rade con ; versions enmasse see m to h ave first occu rred in d Acheh while merch ants of Arabi an an P asei an d Embl m fth f n dity fSiv k t f mal mpl m n t P vti Um D ga K li wh t v th nm h g by din g t th nt fh m n if t ti n ,
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T H E CO U N T RY A N D P EO P L E
7
Persi an n ation al ity p repared its advent also in othe r regions of the north an d l ater of the west co ast M arco Polo speaks of a M u h amm ad an princip ality in the N orth at the end of the thirteenth c ent u ry ; I bn B atu tah of s e ve ral m o re in 1 34 5; Acheh is fu lly isl amised under S o o lt anAli Mo ghayat Sh ah 1 5 07— 1 5 22 ; about the s ame time Men angkab au r u l ed by mah araj ahs p ro u d of their descent in the right line from Alexande r the Gre at I skande r Dz u l K arn e i nre aches its apogee as a formid able M oslim state an d rem ains the stronghold of M al ayan true believe rs until the fan aticism of the padre s stirred by the W ah abite movement ends in 1 8 37 in the s u bmission of the l ast Prince of P agar Ruj o o n ment which annexes g to the D u tch Gove rn his alre ady much diminished empire Abou t 1 40 0 the I sl am h ad been int rodu ced into J av a Z ahej as ia M al acca an d the A rabs c al l ed it p rob ably v S u m atra more esp e ci ally P alembang The oldest e ffo r t re corded was th at of a certain H aj i Po o rwa i n P aj aj aran but it appears not to h ave met w ith gre at success Gresik in E ast J av a a port of c all frequented by m any o riental skippers o ffered a better field for the religio u s z eal of Arab s ailing d tradesmen e very one of m asters supercargoes an them a missio ary too M au l an a M alik I brahim d was succeeded secured the largest following an in his apost olic work by Raden P aku who settled at Gi r i not f ar from G resik whence his title of Sus u hu n d by R aden R ahm at who m arried a an Giri an d ahit an dau ghter of Angk a Wij aya K in of M ojop g .
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founded a M uh amm ad an school at Ngampel Sura baya Their te achings res u lted soon in the conver sion of the popul ation of the no rthe ast co ast of the isl and where Dem ak D raj at T u ban K alin j am at an d a few sm aller v ass al st ates of M ojop ahit m ade themselves ind e pendent u nde r M oslim princes or walts who at l ast combined for a holy war against H indu suprem acy They wiped M ojop ahit in her idol atrous wickedness from the face of the e arth an d the le adership went to Dem ak from which P aj ang derived its politic al ascendency to merge l ater in M ataram While the I sl am spre ad from Gi ri in E ast an d Cent ral J av a even to M at ar am an d crossing the w ate r to M ad u ra by the exertions “ of s aintly men who kne w the fu ture anArab sheik arriving at Che ribon directly from foreign p arts at some time between 1 4 4 5 an d 1 4 90 N oor ad Din I br ahi m bin M au l an a I s rai l better know n as S u n an G u n oon g J ati u nde rtook the conve rsion d of Che ribon in her rel ation to of West J av a A n danm ay be repe ated wh at a J av anes e the Paso o n histori an s aid of Dem ak w her e the E vil One was outwitted by the b u ilding of a mes za dj a M uhamm adan ho u se of prayer the oldest in the isl and : two h u m an vi rt u es rem ai ned ; so m any as embraced the t ru e religion went after them The two rem aining virtues got h ard pressed when Christi an strangers c ame to explore an d exploit : Portug u ese E nglish an d Dutch the l atter domin an t up to t h is day Viewed from the stand ,
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point of the domin ated their god was a god of pl u nder ; their emblem to suit the symbolism of the H indu P antheon was a mary am a he avy piece of o rdn ance ; th e ir v ak an the anim al representa d tive of their most ch aracteristic qual ities w as the tiger maodanstill being synonymous with or an g w olan aa ander H oll ( ) in confidenti al figu rative speech H ow Sk and a the deity of war incited an d K u we ra the co rp u lent bestower of riches dir ected their w arrio rs an d negoti ators afte r the appe ar ance of Cornelis H o u t man s ships in the B ay of B antam need not det ain us Th at story of the past with a hint at the possible fu ture is told in the legend of the legitimately wedded but fo r the time cr u elly sep arated m a ry a ms of which one very appropri ately aw aits the fu lfilment of a prophecy at the c apital of the intrude rs an d the other where they fi rst put foot on l and both being objects of veneration an d grante rs of desires especi ally kind to b arren women who come in a spirit of h u mili a tion to pray for the blessing of motherhood A visit to B at avi a is not complete without a pilgrim age to the Pin ang g ate once anappro ach to the E ast I ndi a Comp any s castle now i n its supe rn atu ral d cleanness with its hideo u sly bl ack funeral urns an st at u es of M ars an d M erc u ry or whoever they m ay be givi ng access to the old town the first pu blic mon u ment which attracted the attention of yo u ng Ve rd ant Green in the ag e of s aili g vessels after he N ot h ad p aid his due to the customs at the 600m far from t h at P in ang g ate symbolic of a coloni al ,
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system u nder which sho rt weight flo u rished with fo rced l abou r an d tr ade c arried on at the edge of the swo rd lies the m an c an non K iahi S atomo whose pommel presents a h and closed so as to m ake the gestu re of contempt [a fl ea which Vanni F u cci of Pistoj a permitted himself when inter rogated in the u zt pa rt/z en m u e abode of desp air by the poet g g d which acco u nts for the tza mater aw ards an F lor en p e c u li ar forms s acrifice ass u mes at this alt ar H is favo u rite spouse discove red floating on the se a ne ar old B antam anextrao rdin ary thing to do fo r s u ch a big he av of met al w as given a tempo rary i e c e y p home on the spot where fin ally she lay down to rest from her travels : a certain H aj i Bool bu ilt her a b ambu house after the e ru ption of K rak ato a in 1 8 8 3 h e r presence h aving s aved K ar ang Ant u fr om the fate of Anyer an i n W aiting for the d Ch e rin g great cons u mm ation when her re u nion with he r lord at B at avi a wi ll annou nce the ho u r of the O pp r esso rs d their exp u lsion from J av a she is not less defeat an hono u red th an he D ressed in a white cloth which co ve rs the circul ar insc ription in Arabic ch aracters d c asc abel while the priming hole is on b reech an decorated in squ are orn ament with five solid r ings to facilit ate conveyance if she prefers being c arr ied to moving by her own exertion as of yore anointed an d salved with bor e/z 1 the spouse expecting the s u mmons in the fragrance of incense an d flowe rs -
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Ge e r c am e fo r o tme ts a d sa v e s, u se s ec o f tu rm e r c a d co co - u t o il c i s smeare o v er th e , a d a e to O ects he i e erat o 1
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M O NU M E NTA L J AVA
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ys he flies b ack to B atavi a anxious to be re ady where the beloved ozm m u da (lit youn g wife ) h as trysted him fo r sweet d alli ance from w hich d rele ase victory will be bo rn an While predictions of the kind m ay be l aug hed at d the found ations on the n ative belief in them an which th at belief rests are no l au gh ab l e m atter by al beings like K i abi me ns Stories of m thic an a y y S atomo an d N i ahi S ato mi t ransfo rmed into pieces of ordn ance connected with the legend ary lore of d M oslim fan aticism Trunaj ay a on one side an personified in the c annon of K ara ng Antu on the other prove th at the n ative mind is still strongly d even pre H indu imbued with pre -M u h amm ad a n an ideas an I ts im agin ation is fed d modes of tho u ght by the fortunes (an d misfo rt u nes ! ) of anisl and which may be comp ared in the heterogeneous factors of its c u lt u re with Sicily where Gre ek colonist s b u ilt their temples in the high pl aces of aborigin al idol atry ; an d the S aracens constr u cted their q u b b e hs overtopping the chu rches an d cloisters into which the d colonn ades Ch risti ans had t ransfo rmed the cell ae an consecrated to Z eu s H era Poseidon Aph rodite P all as Athene Artemis the Dioscuri ; an d the N orm ans added thei r arched doorways an d m assive m asonry to perplex poste rity enti rely I n J av a th e H indu element with a s trong B u ddhist adm ixture predomin ates ; it p rev ails wholly i n ancient arch i t e ct u ral activity not to S pe a k of S o o n dan e se an d J av anese folklore an d literat u re while l ater Christi an i nfluence is negligible if not negative E verywhere
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in the isl and we find u nder the M uh amm ad an co ating the old conceptions of life from which the Loro J ongg rang g rou p an d the B oro B u do o r sp rang d the S aiv a o r B u ddhist sc ratch th e or an g slam an will immedi ately appe ar As the P adang H ighl ands which p rese rve the t raditions of M en angk ab au still ri ng with the fame of the B u ddhist K ing Adit d scru p u lo u sly M oslim P alemb ang yaw arm an an still cherishes the memory of B u ddhist S anb o ts ai while So u th S u m at ra clings to H ind u c u stoms an d h abits fo r all its s u bmission to I sl am so J av a reve res wh atever h as been h anded down from her pa ntheistic te mfi o aa/ m/u (time of yo re ) howeve r S iv ai sm an d attached to the law of the P rophet B u ddhism were dee ply rooted in the isl and ; if the politic al power of its old c reeds w as broken in 1 7 67 with the t aking of B alam b an d u i sm neve r g anH i n d in B ali t h e le ss linge ring among the Tenggerese an thei r spirit goes on le avening the new doct rine d we meet with their symbolism at every t u rn an N ot to mention Ce n tral J av a whe re especi ally in S u rak arta an d J ogj ak art a thei r ten acio u s sw ay strikes the most c asu al obse rve r the gre at stai r c ase o f the M u h amm ad an s anct u m at Gi ri is ag a the worshipfu l rain adorned with a h u ge n clo u d descending i n the likeness of a serpent despite the Q o ran ic inj u nction to abst ain from the represent ation of anim ate c re ation The pill ars of reception h alls an d audience ch ambe rs in the ho u ses d West be ar a of the high an d mighty E ast an rem ark able resembl ance to the Zzn g a witness e g .
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ilt by the S o o ltanS e po o h M ar taw ij aya of Cheribon a M oslim prince who o u ght to h ave evinced the strongest rep u gn ance to S iv a s prime att rib u te U nder the ci rc u mstances we nee d not wonder th at the I sl am did so little to stim u l ate art in J av a Ch risti anity did still less rathe r clogged it in i ts fe red from applic ation to n ative ind u stries which s u f the co u nt ry being flooded w ith st u ff as che ap as possible in eve ry respect b u t sold at the highest possible p rices to benefit m an u fact u rers in E u rope This is not the pl ace to exp ati ate on this s u bj ect n fo rts (i nwhich al as ! per o r to disc u ss p resent e f son al ambitions pl ay first fiddle an d jeop ardise res u lts ) to revive wh at lies at the point of de ath after centu ries of cu lp able disco u ragement the d pec u li ar devices of n ative profession al secrets an arts an d c rafts req u iring heredit ary skill an d the delicate to u ch of experienced fingers to att ain forme r pe rfection being now al re ady h alf fo rgotten o r alto gether lost Conce rning the ancient mon u ments of J av a it is to the B r itish I nterregn u m to S ir Thom as S tamfo rd Raffles th at we owe the fi rst me as u res fo r d the fi rst system atic s u rvey of thei r p reserv ation an specimens of H ind u workm anship as be autifu l as an y in the world mo re in p artic u l ar of the P ram d also of the Bo ro B u do o r by b an an temples an common consent the m asterpiece of Buddhist archi tect u re M arsh alling his assistants in the archae o K d t h th m m n in g é t nb t i g n lly d f th t p t f p nly d n pi d by th wn him lf with hi wiv n d hild n di tin c b n an t f m th q t f hi ti n the
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T H E CO U N T R Y AN D P E O P L E
1
5
logic al field especi ally Corneli u s an d Warde n aar d exc av ations dese rved (Whose fru itfu l explorations an fuller acknowledgme t th an they received from him ) a diligent st u dent besi des of the histo ry an d literatu re of the isl and doing for J av a in th at respect wh at M arsden h ad done fo r S u m atra he inspi red D r Leyden Colonel M acken z ie an d his riv al J ohn Crawfurd among his contempo raries an d of younge r gener ations now eq u ally gone Wilse n Leem ans B ru m u n d F r iede rich J u ngh u hn ; Cohen Stu art H olle —j enpasse et des mei lleu r s ! The v al u e of their l abo u rs m u st be recognised an d it is the fau lt of the D u tch Gove rnment s ap athetic attit u de th at with su ch fo rces at its dispos al so little has been E ach of them with few exceptions achieved d bl az ed his worked independently of the othe r an own person al p ath in the wilderness of D u tch E ast I ndi an antiq u ities The re was as Fe rg u sson com pl ained no system no le ading spirit to give unity to the whole Disconnec t ed sometimes misdirected investig ation did not res u lt i n mo re th an anaccu m u l ation of fragment ary m ateri al for possible fu tu re use r u dzs i n And me anwhile the d zgestagu e m oles d glorious rem ains of a lost civilis ation went more an more to ru in T hey we re drawn u pon fo r pu rposes d o rn ament of p u blic an d priv ate bu ilding ; stat u es an dis appe ared not only in conseq u ence of the u n checked pe rsisten t nibbling o f the toot h of time an d it seemed almost so much g ained if Doo rg a or G anes a re appe ared occ asion ally in the fu nction of domestic goddess or god to some Resident o r ,
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Assistant Residen t who demonstrated his devotion to ancient art an d c are fo r the preserv ation of its m asterpieces by a periodic al process of whitew ashing or t arring Worse th an th at : dilett antism beg an to d the m iserable t amper with the finest temples an t ifi c enth u si as t s bungling of mischievous qu asi scie n re ached its clim ax in the sorry spect ac l e prepared for the visitors of the l ast intern ation al exhibition in Paris There was to be seen in the D utch E ast I ndi an section a me an ridiculou s imit ation of one of the B uddhist jewels of Cent ral J av a a c ari ; 1 cat u re of the Man d i S ari the exte rio r in nondescript confectioner s style d au bed dirty White the interior m ade hideous by a p u rple awning abomin ation heaped on abomin ation And t h at pi teous botch in fact anunconsci ou s avo wal of Dutch coloni al shortcomings did service as a s ample of la mag n i ce d n n e r e lz i o n r od i u e e no r n amen ts e n ficen fi g g zlla es et en v oluptes ! fen g After ane ra of d abbling by pseudo Winckel m anns an d Schliem anns spicing their pretences with m u tual admiration the Gove rnment decided fin ally to appoint a perm anent Arch aeologic al Com mission Thi n gs indeed had come to such a p ass th at there was d anger in del ay : the isl and is b e d more accessible to globe t rotters coming more an of all n ationalities not a few of whom publish their .
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me? mea s i its correct, restr cte se se : Gi m th e sto es e t e e a d u er i c i o e t me s the ashes o f a u r t co r se ” “ ere pu t, or a mau so eu m u t o er th e as es of o e e arte ( OOR a d G R CK E) ’ ex te s o , i at e s eec , a y mo u m e t o fthe u er o Th e elu mdz Sar is su ose to ha e ee a mb a m o r ud hist mo aster ’
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T H E CO U N T RY A N D P E O P L E
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d if erring authority wie l ds a vigor impre ssions an ous Press Law to silence criticism at home ag ainst foreign criticism it has no weapon of the kind how ever touchy i t m ay b e S o i t beg an to move an d the Arch aeo l ogic al Commission (short for Com mission for Arch aeological Rese arch in J ava an d M adura) tho u gh without a single trained arch ae o lo gist among its members displ ayed at once a good deal of activity u nder its fi rst President Dr J L A B randes exp l oring in E ast J av a restoring the elzan dz To o mpan do o t an d B oro g attending to the M e n B u do o r in Central J av a in order th at acting upon K ing Pu ru rav a s inj u nction at l ast understood an d accepted after a fashion by B at avi a an d the H ague no mon u ment sh al l be lost which has been wrought i nthe right spirit I t c anbe im agined th at sub ordin ate offici als e ager to fol l ow their s u periors lead now revel d aily in n u mberless finds reported d remote in the st ar not only from districts near an isl and but from the exterior possessions from So o mb aw a from J ambi in S um at ra from K u te i in E ast from S anggau an d S ak adanin West Borneo etc etc Like the enco u raging of n ative art applied to we av ing wood c arving the m an u facture of pottery d so d bron z e an of househo l d utensils of copper an d architectural on the ferreting out of sc u lptural an ties with the p ast is q u ite the l atest c raz e a stepping stone to preferment or at least a means of ingratiation with those wh o set the p ace There would be no h arm in this if obsequious ambition did not burgeon here an excess of z eal d there into an ,
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which m akes one tremble pregn ant as it proves to be with d angers we l l defined by Ruskin : Of all destructive mani as th at of restoration is the fright fullest an d foolishest Curiosity being excited there is the impulse to s atisfy vulgar dem ands to c ater to co arse appetites whe nadmitting every one who knocks at the door of the t reasure house ho wever unworthy T rippers from the trading centres on the co ast sw arm ro u nd as thei r fancies g u ide ; to u rists fro m dist ant climes sco u r the l and either single spies or d riven in “ noisy b attalions of cond u cted p arties Travel i n J ava is already assuming th e ch aracter of holiday excursions pressed upon the public in bomb astic d posters of t ransportation comp anies h andbills an Reven u e being the princip al objective of D u tch coloni al solicit u de the opportunity they cre ate is gladly sei z ed to levy gate money from visitors to l ‘ do o t dz Me n the e an And since the Philistines who do not app reci ate the be au ties of a building they c annot comprehend expect so mething in ex ch ange for their contrib u tion to the upkeep visible tokens of their re ally h aving been there we sh all soon hear of photog raphers established i n the temple to perpetu ate the memory of spoony couples d offensive m agnesi u m fl ashed at the giggling an feet of the Most Venerable or of the B oro B u do o r in a bl az e of Bengal fire to p l e ase mediocrity which wants b arb aro u s sti mul ants And ap art from such ,
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M O N U M E N TA L J AVA
20
CH
AP
.
e lhard but fo r o ffici als of the type of N icol au s En g d even the B oro no difl i cu lties seem to exist an B u do o r was very recently despoiled to ple ase a royal person age So m u ch for J av a ; as to the exterior possessions the M in ah ass a was plundered even more recently for the benefit of foreign ex Since the respective d fame plo re rs of n ame an 2 Government edicts m u ltiplied fixing responsibility at random c ases of st range dis appe arance multiplied too on the principle it seems of m aking h ay while the sun shines ; the pen d riving departments issu ing circ u lars on eve rything for everything against everything about everything effect absolutely no thing u nless their insistence be t aken often rightly by him who re ads between the lines for a covert invitation to do precisely the contrary considering friendships family rel ations p arty oblig ations etc etc d dominions of powers an The force of regul ations an d rescripts in the D u tch E ast I ndies is notoriously short lived in the best of ci rcumstances an d we h ave it on the au tho rity of H an s S achs j e me k r H ar tenj e o! ” H u t The very scrupulous an d wise moreover drag o ff whatever is loose or can be detached sep arating details of orn ament re l iefs an d statues from thei r s u rro u ndings which are G v n f J v nth t t f m 8 wh g d n t 8 8 in t S m n g v l v y b tif l bj t int nw g d b ght n in t p t f m diff n f th RAFFLE H i t y fj v vl ii n t y 1l
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p i di lly p d d n dt d th n t n i t pig n h l lik li id n d inp i nnth d y f th p ti t it b l n d th nh t w y in l in g t n p it y f th t fth it Of wh t vil ntm n y dinn p i t n t n d tly ign d n d nv n f d? 2
s
Pa aph ases of a f il r
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o ss
e a re
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orce
statu te ,
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T H E CO U N T RY A N D P E O P L E
2 1
indispens able to their proper u nderst andi n g to hide an d forget them in cell ars an d lofts of m u se u ms until the stars being favourable accident ally re d ye ars an discovered after years an d ticketed an d h u ddled together with othe r ticketed objects in long drea ry rows of forbidding bewi l dering aspect Th at is zf they are rescued an d cl assified an d ticketed tan t oze n u e ma! the coloni al section in the M u se u m g of Antiqu ities at Leyden a byword among the lovers of D u tch E ast I ndi an architecture shows cle arly the obstru ction c aused by hopeless n egligence in the d l ack of b ackbone in the present z e al p ast an a energy ardour n E ve ry y fren z y of investigation thing inDutch coloni al affairs goes by fits an d starts with long bl anks of indi ffe rence between To give b u t one inst ance : the Corp u s l n ser zptzon um a j av n ar u m pl anned with flo u rish of trumpets in 1 8 43 still awaits the prelimin aries of a beginning of ex e cu t io n Concerning the f ever of restoration which has broken out one feels inclined in s u pport o f R u skin s opinion quoted above to sound the note of w arning engraved on the signet ring of Prosper M erim ee I nspector of the H istoric al Monuments of a a dm mr e i v lest F rance almost a centu ry ag o : aé v d ex cess the l ast st ate b e come worse th an the first an d the h and of m aneven of z eal deface wh at time an the Department of Public Works i tself qu arrying its m ateri al for bridges dams emb ankments an d the sh ape l ess Gove rnment bui l dings of which it possesses the monopo l y h ave left standing With however insistin g o u the dark aspect of the out ,
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M O N U M E N TA L J AVA
22
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sit uationlet us tru st th at
a
,
CH
AP
.
1
sense of sh ame if not ,
d m ay then the ments of J av a now in v Og u e an faddish pompous dis pl ay t u rned into ch a nnels of quie t responsibl e pe rsistent endeavour herald a brighter day ! ,
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C H APT E R II WEST
JAVA
mu d o s lo s cu erpo s, Q u e daron So
l
n l n nn
Qu e lba
T HE
n
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las a mas se h ab la , e las u ce s de lo s oj o s 1 v e i a l a s a m a s y Ro ma eer o M o seo ( Ce/i
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)
e re
.
“
B atu T u lis lit the inscribed stone ne ar B ogor commemorates the fe ats of a certain prince Parah u Raj a P u ran a otherwise Ratu Dewata an d c al l s him the fou nder of P aku an ruler madam/ a r atu a z j of P aku an P aj aj aran Th at kingdom is the cent re of everything t radition has transmitted r egarding th e H indus in West J av a I ts origin according to n ative be l ief goes b ack to a se ttlement of princely adventurers from Tum apel in E ast J av a an d when M ojop ahit flo u rished after the fall of th at mighty empire it rose to equal eminence at the other end of the is l and only to be destroyed by the s ame agency the growing power of I sl am The m in t d il n Th b di ly th l did mm n On y F in th ligh t f th Cm n l d d p t d th .
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ar e
23
e
s e
,
u
e,
e e es
e so u s.
M O N U M E N TA L J AVA
24
c
m
s u bjection of the mo u nt ain t ribes of the P ri angan by the settlers from the E ast proceeded in the beginning b u t slowly an d the children of the l and even after they h ad yielded to the inevitable m u st h ave retained a sh are in the m an agement of thei r 1 arately mention sep n s t n e a oo n e s d a f irs for S o o n a f a p the r atu ki n g of as two facto rs of government P ak u an an nobility of P aj aj aran ak d the men H owever this m ay be from abou t 1 1 0 0 u ntil the beginning of the sixteenth centu ry Paj aj aran was a politic al u nity th at co u nted She co u ld send an army of a h u nd red tho u s and w arriors into the field H e r kings disposed at will of l arge te rrito ries gained by co n qu est ; one of them conferred u pon a ak arta his b rothe r K alayalan the dominion of J y g in l ate r ye ars better known u nde r the n ame of d on his b rother B aru dinthe dominion Y acatra an princip alities destined to pl ay an o f B ant am important part in the overth row of the sove reign state N othing s ave the meag re acco u nts of the d the sc anty rem ains to be refe rred to at oaoaas an the end of this ch apter reminds now of P aj aj aran except the B ado o y in So u th B antam who constitute Th ld t p h p th n ly iginl f m f ntiv p t y h ppily m R B AN D TE TTE p d by P f with th I t li nt nll I n n t th di tinti nt th i h m fth p n t n li h ld li init b in g imp vi d I t ni t f f lin f whi h th thi d im with th fi t th wi th th n n d th f d th fi t tw n t in m t t m n t g n lly nt d with th m n b tl ly n in g f th l t pl t pt t q t D J J D E H L AN D E th t t h y d t m in th pn dn f n d H i nint nl ti n Wh n m th l h ? F m th w t d i fi ld th y g t gh t t th iv Wh n m l v? F m th y it g t ight t th h t ,
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n
W E S T J AVA
2
5
community apart entirely iso l ated from the rest of the popu l ation an d d whose pecu l i ar customs an re l ig ious Observ ances so far as known m ake it probab l e th at they are the descendants of fugitives before the M u h amm ad an in ro ad When N oor ad Din I brahim bin M aul an a I srai l had established in Cheribon not only his religion b u t also his politic al power he began u nder the d title of S u n an G u n n am e an oo n g J ati to prop ag ate the faith by forc e of arms in the whole of West J av a First he cast his eyes on B antam then a mighty re al m the possession or at least the control of which le aving spiritu al motives alone wou ld m ateri ally b e nefit M oslim tr ade by secu ring a free p ass age through the S traits of Soond a whenever trouble with the Portuguese m ade the S traits of M al acc a uns afe The Siv ai te Prince of B ant am trying to preserve his independence by fos tering the d commerci al r iv alry between his M u h amm adan an Ch ristian friends received the l atter with open arms an d besought their assistance against Cheribon an d Dem ak but M au l an a H as an ad Din a son of ated him none th e less S u n an G u n J defe ati oon g an d introduced the I sl am among his people both i n B antam proper an Another son d in the L ampongs of Sun an G u n J ati founded the M uh amm ad an oon g p rincip al ity of Soonda K al apa notwithstanding the fortific ations erected there by the Portuguese at the inst ance of their B an tam e se ally to stem the tide of M uh amm ad an conqu est After subjugating the v as s al state M aul an a H as an ad Din at tacked about a
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M O N U M E N TA L J AVA
26
p.
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nder the K ing s son d S ili W angi an d ro u ted them t aking the c apit al an p roselytising by the sword whe rever he went following the ex ample set by R aden P at ah of Dem ak in E ast J av a I t is p rob able th at B ant am once isl amised an d conseq u ently t u rning ag ainst the Portu gu ese took the side of C he ribon in these w ars ribon togethe r At an Che rate we find B ant am an d y acknowledging the s u z e rainty of Dem ak like the mo re easte rn p rincip alities of the north coast an d when th at cent ral M u h amm ad anstate of J av a lost the hegemony in conseq u ence of its bre aking u p afte r the de ath of P an ge ran T rangg an a an d at l ast the S o o ltanof Paj an into which i dissolved t h ad g to h u mble himself with his allies the Adip ati of d the S u n an of Gi ri befo re the Sen ap ati S u rab ay a an of M at aram his fo rme r regent i n th at te rrito ry this d cleve r potent ate cl aimed the lo rdship v ali ant an over the isl and These were the beginnings of a glorio u s new M ataram pe rh aps identic al with M end ang K am u l an Cheribon which h ad conq u ered B ant am an d P aj aj aran lost g rad u ally her strength bec ame tribu t ary to M ataram i n 1 6 2 5an d wholly dependent in 1 6 3 2 She declined still mo re after the de ath of Pan amb ahanGi ril ay a who divided his s u ccession between his sons P ange ran M artawij aya (l ater S o o ltanS e po o h) an d P angeran K arta wi a a l ate r j y ( S o o lt anAnom ) on condition of thei r providing fo r 1
52 6 the t roops of P aj aj ar an
cu
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o
Th e t t
a a,
nw m d p b bly f th fi t ti m in th hi t y fP j n g wh nin568 h dd d Jip n g t hi d m in
e o f So o lta
l
e ru er o
as assu
a a
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1
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a
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s or
a
s
.
M O N U M E N TA L J AVA
28
ca
n .
d H ow the Company accomplished its pu rpose an tri u mphed needs he re no detailed ex amin ation I ts objects an d the consider ations which moved it are wittily discu ssed in a J av anese mock epic the S er az d er a s atire on the rise of D u tch B ar onS ak e n power at B atavi a the fo u nd ation of Moo r Y ang Koong (J anPie te rsz Coen ) I f th at p atte rn of regents ou tr e mer the fi rst D u tch Gove rnor General in J av a whose motto w as never desp ai r whose g rip like the g rip of the tiger has invited com d P arv ati ) p arison with G anes a (fi rstborn of Siv a an for wisdom an d c au tio u s st atec raft with Sk and a also sp ru ng fro m the M ah adev a s lo rns b u t witho u t ( d mettle the Devi s collaboration ) for resol u tion an here we find him as the son of B aron S o o k m o o l B aron S ak e n dhe r s brother an d T an aru g a d au ghter of the Paj aj aran e se Princess Ret ma S ak ar M an dh apa an d the poet m akes the pe rsonific ation of the Company say to his twelve hopefu ls the e arliest T u an Tu an Ede le e r o r honou rable membe rs of the Gove rno r General s Cou ncil : Good meas u res yo u will enfo rce witho u t q u arrelling amongst you rselves d even if it we re l arceny the moment yo u h ave an decided u pon it by common consent I give my permission —a speech delightfully in keeping with the tactics of his fathe r whose artille ry prev ailed .
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Thi l dy w p i n fth P n g nfJ k t (Y t ) f m wh m B nS k m l h m d by h b ty wh nh ivd inJ v t t d f h i f th th w l thy m t K wit P hn b ght h f th big g n wh hi t y inth l g n d y l fth i l n d i in t i bly mi d p W th fK i hi S t m (f th n th m n t kin g d mi il t Ch ib n g dt ) d th m y m f K n Ni hi S t mi n g An f d t inth p din g t h pt 1
s
aro
oo
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s
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s or
as a
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c
a
ar aa a a o
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ore o
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,
W E S T J AVA
11
29
not with iron c annon balls b u t with golden g rape shot of du c ats an d doubloons The ru ins of the Fort S pe e lw rj ck an d the min aret of P ange ran M u h amm ad s mesaj zd at Old B ant am are very ill u st rative of the insinu ating w a y in which the pioneers of the Comp any pl anted their factories once admitted on the strength of their p romises they g ained a firm footing by military s u periority driving h ard barg ains an d o u sting the I sl am from wh at it had come to regard as its own N e ar by is the neglected overgrown D u tch cemete ry where m any of those pionee rs were l aid to rest far from home family an d friends killed in the Comp any s b attles or by st renuo u s ob e dience to ex acting orders b artering their he alth in a m u rderous clim ate for a h andfu l of silve r w asting body an d sou l to swell the Comp any s dividends A tangle of weeds an d bri ars closes ove r their rem ains thick moss cove r ing their broken gravestones e ffaces thei r forgotten n ames ; even the m au soleums dedic ated to the memory of the leade rs among them comm anders an d commerci al agents in chief are cru mbling aw ay h arbo u ring hungry guests w hich le ave s afe l ai rs in the forests when dee r an d wild pigs become scarce to raid at night t he vill age sheepfolds while sn akes d fiss u res at an m ay d art forth from the cracks an y moment an d mosquitoes sw arm ro u nd in myri ads the worst pl ag u e of all to him who seeks communion with the de ad i n th at jungle The buri al ground of the S o o lt an s of B antam gathered round H as a n the first pre acher of the true faith in this ad Din -
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M O N U M E N TA L J AVA
30
n
egion is in bette r condition Thou gh Shafe i to whose mads eé o r school the M oslemin of the D u tch E ast I ndies belong dis approved of el aborate tombs an d p resc ribed th at sep u lch ral c avities after the deposition of the bodies sho u ld be filled u p an d m ade level with the gro u nd memori al tokens to mark the g raves of M u h amm ad an s aints famo u s p rinces an d heroes often venerated as é r amats are a famili ar sight in J av a ; they consist gene rally of pieces of wood o r stone ten gg er st anding u p righ t d at the feet di ffe rently at both ends at the he ad an sh aped fo r men an d fo r women M any s u ch are fo u nd whe re P ange ran M u h amm ad raised his mesaj za with the min aret detached like the c ampanile of some medi aev al I tali an ch u rch Tombs all ro u nd tombs of S o o lt an s thei r b rothe rs an d sons an d cou sins their g reat cou ncillo rs an d gene rals a B an tame se Aliscam ps with H as an ad Din occ u pying the pl ace of hono u r u nder a c anopy praye r m ats an d p raye r books lying arou nd a benign breez e sti rr ing d filling the air with the the m u slin h angings an z é o as frag rance of the é an Whoever w ants to j know of the excellent deeds of the S o o ltan s of B antam thei r acts of devotion in peace an d their p rowess in w ar can receive info rm ation from P ange ran M u h amm ad Ali in é ampon K n ri one a a g of thei r descendants keepe r of the archives of the mesaj zd an d the s u rrounding g arden of the dep arted H e will tell fu rthermo re of the well ne ar the north Pl n tf l P f m Ap y n pl n ivly in t d t n m t t fl w f thi n ll d b n g k b (g v flw ) h v v y pl n t d n d dt n t l th t r
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W E ST J AVA
31
wall of the new b u ilding which is fed from the well Z em z em at M ecc a an d th anks to the child I shm ai l beneath whose feet its wate r b u bbled forth possesses the prope rty of c u ring dise ase I t is also connected with the mi rac u lo u s so u rce at L u ar B at ang whose w ate r possesses the prope rty of detecting pe rverte rs of the t ru th : the m anwho tries there to sl ake his thi rst with a falsehood on his conscience from a do w nright lie to a te rminologic al inex actit u de or even a little fib fo r the s ake of domestic t ranq u illity wi ll not be able to sw allow a d rop his th ro at refu sing liq u id comfort u ntil expi ation of gu ilt ; an d so the devotees w h o flock to the sh rine of the s aint of H ad ram au t at P as ar l k an B atavi a le ave th at so u rce p ru dently alone one m ay h ave sinned u nwittingly or u nde r st rong p rovoc ation S u ch holy pl aces are thickly strewn an d the l ast h abit ation of H as an ad Din is one of the holiest being ove rsh adowed by the vene rable min aret of P angeran M u h amm ad s mesayzd which signified to B ant am wh at the mesaj zd d the mesd/za of of Ng ampel did to the e astern an Dem ak to the middle st ates of M oslim J av a The int act p rese rv ation of the l atte r as the oldest existing edifice e rected for M u h amm adan wo rship in the zs eau sa isl and is of high impo rt ance super stztzon an d exceeding c are was t aken in 1 8 4 5 when the d anger of its t u mbling down bec ame imminent to reb u ild it not all at once b u t one p art after the othe r ro u nd the fou r princip al s u ppo rts of the o r igin al str u ct u re an d to restore the be au tifu lly Pth A b t 4 68 by R d n ,
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c arved lintels an d posts ex actly to their acc u stomed position N othing is left at Dem ak of Raden Patah s p rincely dwelling b u t the g raves are S hown of Pan S abrang Lo r am b ahanJ im b o o n P ange ran d P angeran Trangg an a who w as killed by one an ai t ic of his serv ants on anexpedition to still S iv Pas u ru an P ange ran T ranggan a h ad au xili aries from B antam d this le ads u s b ack to West among his t roops an J av a afte r o u r slight d ig ression in favo u r of Dem ak the ene rgetic cent ral st ate which at the ti m e here S poken of ruled the ro ast i n m atters of conquest tam e se for the p ropagati o n of the faith The B an more th an thei r conve rters h ave conserved a rep u d it is not yet a qu arter of a fo r fan aticism an tat io n centu ry S ince a cert ain A b o o l K arim of the district T an ara pre ached the holy war the brotherhood of the N aq shib e n dyah fanning the fl ame of sedition he kindled H is m u r zds (disciples ) Tu b ag o o s I sm ai l d W asid h aving spre ad the movement M ardu k i an led by a ce rt ain H aji I skak m ass acred a mob seve ral E u rope ans at Chilegon B u t for the Gove rnment s b ayonets rather th an a co u rse of concili ation b ased on a thorou gh knowledge of the ag rari an c au ses at the bottom of the un rest among the popu l ation the whole of B ant am might h ave d Che ribon might h ave followed bl az ed u p an Seeing th at they co u ld not prev ail the diss atisfied betook themselves ag ain to prayer there at the g rave of H as an ad Din here at the grave of Sheik N oor ad Din I brahim situ ated not far from the .
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c apit al he fo u nded on a hill ne ar the se a the Gu n o o n J ati whence his title The te rraces of g a so c alled fi rst home of the I sl am i n the astan this region m u ch venerated howeve r m u ch defaced s avo u r of mo re ancient heathen mon u ments in all thei r odo u r of M u h amm adan s acredness not othe r wise th an the K ztao P apat am, the Cheribon code of l aws s avo u rs of I ndi an m axims an d even at this date bet rays its bi rth from the legisl ation int rodu ced by the H ind u immig rants tho u gh in 1 7 68 (an d ot before th at year mo re th an th ree cent u ries afte r the int rod u ction of the law of the P rophet l) the K u tar a M a n ama h as o f fici ally been ab rog ated in the S o o ltan ate The lowest th ree te rraces of the o r the descend ants astan a se rve as a b u ri al g ro u nd f of S u n an G u n d the men of m ark in the o o n J ati an g a ann als of his empi re ; a ro ad winding u pw ard M oslim Via delle Tombe cond u c ts the pilg rim to a mesaj za on the fo u rth not to be desec rated by the ' feet of u nbelievers ; above the mesaj za o nthe rest fifth the san the mo rtal re etor u m ctu m sa n m ains o f the s ain t himself Speaking of Che ribon d the I sl am a refe r in its rel ations to H ind u i sm an ence to Chinese infl u ences on J av anese architectu re c annot be o m itted They are most evident, of co u rse whe re the sons of the Flowery E mpi re d in gre atest n u mbers h ave settled e arlies t an In seve ral loc alities Chinese temples are found fo r the b u ilding an ed archi d deco rating of which renow n ,
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M O N U M E N TA L J AVA
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m
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tee ts wood c arve rs an d painters h ave expressly Re bee ns u mmoned to J av a at g re at expense S it u ated a t a te n the finest is the t en k u te dl g p y stone s th row from the shed whe rein S u n an is kept the vehicle in Gun o o n J at i s g r oéak g which he descended from he aven to p rocl aim the d Word Transpl anting thei r c u rved roof t rees an gau dy o rn ament the Chinese b ro u ght also a taste fo r grotto wo rk once not ably conspic u o u s in the On the ro ad to T ag al k r atonof S o o ltanAnom a rocky ne ar the dessa (vill age ) S u n a ra i lies y g l aby ri n th belonging to the ple as u re g rou nds of Among S o o ltanS e po o h s famo u s co u ntry se at other clever devices it cont ains anartifici al c ave so constru c ted that the é an j en g g oostz reti ring th ithe r on a hot afte rnoon fo r d alli ance w ith his favo u rite of the ho u r might sh u t himself completely o ff from the wo rld by a disc reet artifici al w aterfall sec u ring p riv acy behind its liq u id sc reen an d a refreshing atmosphe re stim u l ative to amo ro u s exe rcise The Chin am an who el abo rated the idea had his eyes gou ged o u t to p revent his c re ating anothe r s u ch wonde r of architectu re ad apted to the dive rsions of o riental potentates I t seems fitting th at in J av a the sweet isl and d where alw ays the delicio u s whose air is balm an so u nd of r u nning w ater is he ard whe re the c u lt of b athing is pe rfected by inclin ation as well as n e ce s sit y of clim ate some of the oldest signs of civilis a tion are fou nd in sheltered nooks an d co r ne rs still freq u ented by those who appreci ate aninvigo rating -
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B u kit T ro n which l are arranged afte r a pl a n o o gg somewhat like th at of the sq u ares enclosing the p rincip al temple an d the s u rro u nding sm alle r ones of the e an Even then Polynesi an c lu m s i a i Sew u ness was not S h aken o ff At B at u T u lis a k am pon g in the o u tskirts of Bogor whe re the hosts of two religions fou ght the b attle which decided the d fate of P aj aj aran are several u ng ainly im ages an impressions of the feet of Po o rw ak ali the spo u se of one of th at re alm s pet rified kings wh o mo u rned him with s u ch copio u s te ars th at S h e softened the very rock S he stood u pon acco rdi n g to one legend d acco rding to an othe r legend of the feet of a an ce rtain Raj a M an t ri who t arried so long in con te mplat io n of the insc ribed sto n e alre ady mentioned ponde ring ove r the me ani n g of its st range ch ar ac te rs th at he s ank g rad u ally into the h ard g ro u nd The re are mo re imp ressions of mo re feet an d a coarsely c arved tzn g a S iv a s fec u nd ating att rib u te t ransfo rmed by M u h amm ad an piety into the m i racle wo rking st aff of a M oslim s anton H ardly g re ate r inte rest is awakened by the p rimitive st at u es Kota B atu de ri v es its appell ation fro m “ city of stones z es A ltee lining the p ath which fo rm a so rt of R u /zn from the m ain road to the b ath ho u se with m an y of the s ame p atte rn scattered to right an All of d left them are pet rified wo rthies of P aj aj aran which their own mothe rs wo u ld not recognise tho u gh the n atives know e ach of them by p raenomen nomen cog d title K ing M o o n nomen an W ngi the din a z l e g nice smelling b u ffalo looking perh aps a t rifle more ,
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h u m an th an the rest Of a sim il ar n ature are the a r e aa omas a colle ction of about eight h u nd red blocks of stone on the estate Pondok Gedeh which need a vivid im agin ation in the behol der to pass for the fig u res of men an A good specimen d anim als of the P aj aj aran type of sc u lpture if it deserves th at n ame is the l achry m ose Po o rwak ali al re ady refe rred to as st anding petrified herself at a l ittle dist ance from the B atu Tulis where she sol aces he r widow an hood by keeping comp any with K idan en on g j gp forgetting her roy al h u sb and after h e r p aroxysm of g rief in a plebei an fli rtation Such is wom an ! F rom these crude attempts at a rep resentation of a nim ate cre ation sp rang nevertheless anart d which i n t he h ands of the m aster builde rs a n sculptors of Central J av a who sought the be au ty of tr u th th at is verily witho u t a riv al flowe red o u t i n pr aye rs of stone visible tokens of their ye arning fo r he avenly rew ard bo r n of communion with the divi ne i n deep reflection only to descend ag ain to lower pl anes to the seeking of the praise of m anin the decadent convention ality of the l ater e aste rn H ind u empires The sto ry of the development of d sculpt u re in the isl and from the architect u re an imm atu rity identified with P aj aj aran to the lux u rio u s do o t g rande u r of the temples of P ramban an the M e n d the B oro B u do o r hides a riddle no less st range an th an th at of the bursting forth of Arabic poetry fu ll blow n in all its s u btleness of thought exuberance of im agin ation per fection of l angu age The story of decline is written i n the evo l u tion of deco rative .
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design : the signific ance of motives based on the observ ation of the e arth an d h e r p recio u s gifts ev apo rates g rad u ally in nicely w aving lines el aborate sc rolls insipid fi n The data he ad ch anges e ri e s into the roots of a t ree fig u rative of the fo rest ; the t ru nk of G an apati into its bole ; at l ast the t ree roots t ru nk b ran ches foli age an d all with the su n rising ove r the fo rest with mo u nt ains to u ching the sky with r ive rs flowi n g to the se a into convention al o rnament I sl amic ideals we re not cond u cive to a reviv al of a r tistic conceptions fading into nothing ness ; neither was to repe at th at too the p ainfu l contact with Ch risti an civilis ation When the n atives we re m ade to toil an d moil fo r alien m aste rs d ene rgies blighted into the defects thei r vi rt u es an an d failings of ap athy H ow co u ld it be othe rwise Where anine fficient ven al police an d a slow de fe c ti v e administration of j u stice did an d does not ( ) protect p rope rty against dep redation ; whe re exertion beyond wh at is st rictly necess ary fo r b are s u bsist d me a ns ) not p rospe rity b u t inc re ased ence me an t (an taxation With all its p retensio n s to s u pe rio rity an d displ ay of ethic al sentiment the D u tch Gove rn ment cansc arcely be s aid to differ m u ch from B aron S o o k m o o l the pe rson ified E ast I ndi a Comp an y of mo re th an three centu ries ag o H oll and s wards in he r rich colonies m ay be mo u lded into men angels or devils like the T r ilo k a the t riple people of the H ind u s acco rding to the t re atment meted o u t to them an d the ed u c ation they receive As far as J av a is conce rned hoping in he aven s me rcy ,
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they l ive in their old traditions the light of the d the sh adow of the present p ast an What will the fu ture bring i adv ance of the day on which m ankind Shall be scatte red abroad like moths ? d the There is no knowledge of it b u t with God an and of sec r et lies behind the B an as at i in h h t e p h im of the budding lotu s fl o we r the Delivere r from E vil n ti n l li n ( tig ) h d W np ti i th B np ti vn f q n t m tiv in th nm n t f J vn t m pl p i lly f mm n v th i p h n dg t w y ,
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WHERE five residencies — S am arang Pek alongan B any u m as the B agelen an d the K ad u — meet between two se as the wonderl and of the D i eng d western ch ain of volc anoes links the e astern an wh ich are the vertebrae of J av a s spine The Di eng pl ate au the first p art cre ated as tradition goes an d destined to rem ain longest above w ater d submersion is in the isl and s fin al dest ru ction an nothing b u t a h u ge crater N atu re in he r most m yste rious mood exercises here a ch arm of a pec u lia r ch aracter well expressed by the n ame according to the J av anese deriv ation from ad z ae n g m arvello u sly beau tifu l The temples i nthis z e region be l ong to the oldest an d finest if by no me ans the l argest of J av a The discovery of a D A B C H E N ST U A RT h w v d iv Di en g f m ly n g m f n d by him inld d th n ,
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TH E DI ENG
1 11
41
stone with a Ve n gg i inscription has led to the conjectu re th at the H ind u settlement to which we owe them o rigin ate d from the Pri angan ; othe r i ndic ations point to immigration di rectly from So u the rn I ndi a H oweve r this m ay be the d ates asce rt ained (one in aninscription reprod u ced by me in 1 8 8 5 for fu rther examin ation at B atavi a leaving the stone in the pl ace whe re I had fo u nd it ) from 7 3 1 S ak a (A D 8 0 9 ) on witness to the lost civilis ation of the D ié n g h aving re ached its apogee at t h e time the Abb assides flo u rished in B aghd ad H ow it rose an d the Om ayy ads i n Cordov a o t know declined an d fell we do n For fou r cen t u rie s its memo ry lived only as a fantastic t ale the rem aining utte rly dese rted a wilderness of Di é n g mo u ntain an d demons d forest inh abited by devils an d Du sh an a type of the K h ara an Resettled S ince abo u t 1 80 0 its vill ages incre ase d d its wild anim als big an in n u mber an d si z e an sm all dis appe ar grad u ally tho u gh the tige rs are still tro u blesome evincing a g rowing disposition to d v ary thei r accustomed fare with domestic kine an d e ffo rts at The sombre woods are gone an S heep re affo restation g ave so far no perceptible results The g round yields ab u nd ant crops of c abbage onions an d tob acco in which a lively t rade is done with Chinese middle men who b u y fo r the merch ants whence the prod u ct is shipped to at Pek along an l arger centres of trade These middlemen cong re g ate principally at B ato o r a prospero u s vill age whe re travellers to the Di eng arriving from th at side will ,
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n d o o w e pp eci te the hospit ble disposition of the a a r a the n ative chief of the dist rict M any a one h as been entertained under his roof looked down u pon from the palupoo/z (split b amb u ) walls by the Roy al d K aiser Wilhelm in F amily of Great B r itain an ch romolithographic sple ndo u r while discussing a s ubstanti al l u nch or arra ngin g for sleeping ae com m o d at io nif too ti red to p u sh on or desiro u s of visiting the Pak aram anthe v alley of de ath at b re ak of day when the u nc anny m anifest ations of th at pl ace of horror are strongest Another sou rce of d a men of B ato o r an income for some of the Chi n thei r henchmen of the Di e ng is opi u m smuggling The geographic al position comm anding access to five administrative divisio n s of the isl and at once lends itself admirably to th at lucrative business And if the smuggle rs c ate r to a low vice they c an excuse logic ally u n answerable by those adv ance an in au thority who p u nish them whe nc aught : they s atisfy but a dem and in competition with the Gove rnment th at c re ated it introduced the dru g d encou rages its u se artifici ally an whetting a d demoral ising the child ren depraved appetite an of the l and for the s ake of more revenue Often though I went u p to forget the c ares of ex acting du ties in h appy holid ays on the Di eng trying the different approaches the impressions of my first ascent in Octobe r 1 8 8 5are freshest in my memory Starting from Wonosobo I p refe rred to a more direct ro u te the ro u nd about w ay v ia T e man g go o n g spending a day on the ro ad between ,
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H.
DIENG
43
the twin volc anoes S o o mb i n S indo o enjoying a n d r g d left eve ry new tu rn disclosing the v iews to right an tain slopes b aski n new wonde rs : mo u n g in the w armth which radi ated t ri u mph antly fro m a S k y of d az z lin g b right n ess v all eys of pe rfect loveliness losing thei r b rilli ant h u es in the sh ades of evening as if a c u rtain fell between the wo rld left an d the wo rld ente red The following morning e arly I rode from T e man gg o o n g in a thick mist which rolling aw ay befo re the su nu ncovered a l andsc ape mo re an d mo re ru gged as I p assed P ar ak an an d Ng adi rejo b u t alw ays more ch arming a fe ast to the eye N ear N g adirej o the edan azs Pe rot an a oos d Prin g p cl aimed my attention B u ilt for the worship of Siv a his saé tz Doorg a an d thei r eldest son they o ffe red a sad spect acle of dec ay the fo rme r c ru m b ling away inthe b anefu l embrace of a gig antic tam arind one of whose b ranches rose from the midst of the ru in st raight u p to heaven ove rsh adowi n g G anes a the conqu e ro r of obst acles in his medita tions ; the l atte r holding anim age of Siv a s o a/zan a an az or n the b u ll symbol of his cre ative power still an object of vene ration as the bored indic ated the w alls of the temple being decorated with splendid has reliefs representing a scene from J av anese histo ry or mythology an alogo u s to the rape of the 1 S abine women F arthe r on s u rp rise s u cceeding ,
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M O N U M E N TA L J AVA
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AP
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surprise lies J o o mprit another delicious spot s anctified by a holy g rave at the so u rce of the Progo The wa te r g u shing fo rth from the mouth of a c avern an d trickling down its sides is i m m e di g the ferns ately lost to sight in a declivity amo n Curio u s monkeys he rd ro u nd led by their brawny chief imperiou s like H an o m anborn from the wind s winging thro u gh space comm anding the simi an a : they constit u te one of the few army of S u riv g colonies of s ac red apes which form a living link with the H ind u epoch ; th at of Gaj a M o o n gk oor on the Di eng has ce ased to exist From J oo mpri t on it w as p retty steep climbing to a point whe re at a s u dden turn I beheld the lowl ands far beneath the clo u ds g athering round me fair pl ains resting u nde r their h az y veil of m id day repose c alm an d u ndist u rbed Drinking deep of the invigorating mou ntain air I noticed the red cheeks of the women an d gi rls who returned from m arket in little g ro u ps Afte r descending to the te a pl ant ations of T ambi the cl a mbering up beg an again pretty h ar d f o r my pony to which I g ave an occasion al rest looking back ove r hills an d valleys as they dissolved in soft melting tints impressing the beholder with a sense of ete rn al light in limitless space Wonder akin to awe seiz ed me when panoram a like a l andscape of silent gran deur quite di fferent from the gracefu l m ajesty of the rose g ardens of Wonosobo an d the p al m groves of T e man I was on the Dieng ggo o n g unfolded itself pl ate au N otwithstanding the l ate hour my admira ,
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T HE
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45
tion of the scene ry h aving m ade my prog ress slow d I cou ld not resist the tempt ation to dismo u nt an follow the t rail which led me down to the so u rce of the Se ray u beside the ro ad an d pay my compliments to the sh ade of S t alw art B imo by way of in tro d u c tion to the regions reso u nding in its temples with his exploits an d those of othe r wo rthies s u ng in ’ the B r ata Y u aa N o r indeed only in its temples this s ame delightfu l ret re at commemo rates B imo s prowess acco rdi n g to a legend which in its astonish ing acco u nt of his s u pern at u ral virility c annot be repe ated E nou gh to say th at Arj u n o m aking him dig u p the toog B imo on the advice of S am ar the wily w as the fi rst by dete rmining the co u rse of the Se ray u to direct the water from the mo u ntains of Cent ral J av a to the se a the rewith obtaining the re alm of Ng ast in And whoeve r t akes a b ath alone o d at night in the w ater sp ringing from mothe r an e arth unde r the po oone e metz the weeping willow of B i mo s fou nt ain will h ave no occasion fo r ce rtain d weekly p ape rs elixirs l argely adve rtised i n d aily an will retain yo u thfu l vigo u r into ho ariest ag e I t was d ark when I arrived at the pasan g r adan the Government rest—hou se received fi rst by a sh aggy plu m e taile d dog of the Dieng v ariety s u spicious of strangers H er n ame proved to be S aram a s u ggesting cl assical associ ations not K wi p m t Y d Y w i th J vn v i nf th f m Th B whi h ini t t ni f n d d nth S nk it p M l b t Y d l Bi t d t J v i n f H tinp i t npl n f th p t Th w h f J vn nm nl t th t k it p p nm h v p d in S n th f hi t y n In di nh h v b m th f n d d g g phy ; th J vn dynti th p g n it fJ vn nb l ty ,
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M O N U M E N TA L J AVA
46
CH
AP
.
sustained I am sorry to reco rd by he r m aster mine host a S w iss reti red from service in the D u tch coloni al army an d pu t in ch arge of the pl ace Spe aking inn u merable l ang u ages an d every one of them as if it we re a tzn ea composed of all g u a fr a n the othe rs he showed me my room took o rde rs fo r my s u ppe r an d m ade me comfo rtable the b ro ad pe rpet u al smile on his honest face ill u mining o u r polyglot convers ation Al as ! Wie lan d t is no mo re I nd ra who k n ows men s he ar ts has ce rt ainly as signed to this di amond more polished p res u m ably in its celesti al th an in its fo rme r terrestri al state a wo rthy st ation among the jewels of the city of bliss Am arav ati A m anof family instincts good dt le ft seve ral d au ghte rs at the time of my Wie lan visit of initi ation ext remely shy little gi rls an d a son then Sinjo E ndrik the obliging an d attentive eve r re ady to ac t as a g u ide to an d othe rwise to assist his fathe r s gu ests on their excu rsions now T u an E nd rik his fathe r s s u ccesso r in the fi asan g r a an while one of his b rothers in law keeps a s m all p riv ate hotel opened to meet the i n c re asing infl u x d seeke rs of he alth of sightseers an The Di eng pl ateau especi ally in the dry se ason wou ld be an ide al site fo r a s an atori u m The s u ffe re r from the debilitati n g heat on the co ast in the ene rv ating conditions of a contin u o u s st ru ggle fo r the next doll ar o r o ffici al prefe rment with fatte r s al ary m ay d a cool Clim ate find there rest an Going to the bath room be fo re setting o u t e arly on some expedition I h ave often found mini at u re icicles pendent fro m the ,
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THE
D I EN G
e/t u r anthe w ate r cond u it pan
47
n d riding
off h ave often he ard in crossing a p u ddle the thin coating of ice crackle u nde r the hoofs of m y po n Sometimes y at s u n r ise the few rem aining temples stand o u t white the whole pl ate au being covered with frost which m akes a st range impression on one who b u t the day before y este rd ay sweltered in the fiery fu rn ace of fo r inst ance the H e e re n straat at S am arang W aki n g u p the morning afte r my fi rst arrival feeling cold thou gh the scene my eyes met was not q u ite so severely wintry as th at j u st described my d reams seemed to contin u e in re ality I beheld a tranq u il pl ain diffe rent in its b right serenity from everyth ing I h ad so far seen anywhere else the Bimo d the A rj u n temple rising to the left an o gro u p to the d the sky right sh arply o u tlined ag ainst the hills an thei r d ark g ray colo u r in wonderfu l h armo n y with the ve rdure of e arth an d the bl u e exp anse of he aven e moment they appe ared ne ar in the cle ar atmo On d sphere as if I co u ld sei z e them with my h and an then ag ain ve ry very far never to be app ro ached A v apou r clinging to the slope of the P angon an in the di rection of the K awah K id ang reminded me of the t remendo u s cosmic ene rgy entering into the com position o f this soothing stillness this tonic for the sick an d wo rried with the cert ainty of an nihil ation Once a l ake of seething as fin al pledge of freedom l av a the pl ate au lies enclosed by the tops of five d mount ains the Prah u Sroyo Bismo N ogos ari an J im at 2 0 50 metres above the level of the se a ; the ,
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48
CH
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P angon an an d P ag ar K and ang are old er u ptive d s and thrown out cones formed of the m u d an d r aised the which accumul ated at thei r bases an surrounding gro u nd The pl ate au in its n arrower sense is now a fl at stretch of t u rf in pl aces especi ally in the middle a mo rass c alled the R aw a B aleh d the Raw a Glonggong K ambang fo r its no rthe rn an for its sou thern part Ru ins h ave been found every d u p the slopes of the hills where inthe pl ain an even u p to the s u mmit of the P rahu H ere stand stone posts in a row u sed by A rj u n o according to the legend to tether his eleph ants while his cows after graz ing on the P angon an we re co rralled for the night in the hollow of t he P ag ar K andang lit fence of the c attle pen the re as in Dieng K ido o l l ayers of ashes among the sl ags an d other debris m ark the sit u ation inthe p ast of the burning gro u nds which yield a steady h arvest of bron z e an d gold fi n d other objects g e r rings b racelets anklets an of person al adornment Ancient aqueducts wal ls st airc ases found ations of sec u l ar b u ildi n gs clustered ro u nd the temples rem ains of animpo rtant religious d rich th at J u nghuhn did not centre so v arious an exaggerate when c alling them inexh au stible s u ggest the existence once u pon a time in those mountain wilds of a J av anese Ben ares min u s the G anges but plus a setting of u nceasing v olc anic activity which demolished it by a s u dden violent outbre ak Such s u ggestions need only the seconding of one of the le arned to be utte rly ridiculed by his equ ally le arned Opposite school brethren of an We wi l l l et the ,
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0
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AP
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the cool clim ate has had a visible influence are very prosperous their p rincipal occ u p ation being the preparation of a h ai r oil from the seeds of the ,
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lies on the west b ank of Tel aga Chebong one of the m any lakes which add to the i ndescribable ch arm of the Di eng some possessing u nc anny echoes some being yellow an d s u lph u ro u s some of ever ch anging d stocked with h u e some of crystalline cle arness an goldfish while the m arshy sho res are a favo u rite h aun t of metzw zs a kind of d u ck m u ch pri z ed as food an di n gly sca rce P roceeding d becoming correspo n to Sikun ang we get be au tifu l views in the di rection of B ato o r hidden among its Chinese graves an d orch ards as in an ai ry robe of w hite an d green along the mo u nt ain rills which h asten impet u ously to the v alley of B anj arnegara meeting in the radi ance of the s u n s promise fo r u nio nwith the se a ; down to the rice fi e lds of T e m an g go o n g resplendent at the feet of the high mou nt ains w hich keep g u ard over the K ad u a paradise domin ated by the sister an d volc anoes S o o mb in Sindoro a j oy to behold g d t u rning P assing Siku na ng an round the T e ro o s a spu r of the Pak u o o oon Gu n g j we notice some trachyte steps the he ad of a stairc ase m ade for the convenience of pilg rims from wh at is n o w the residency B agelen to the city of temples an ascent of five thous and feet Over a long distance following the course of the river Lawang th at gig antic ro ad way canbe traced far below Tel aga M enjer by stones left in ho l es from which it was not e asy to ,
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THE DI ENG
11 1
SI
remove them fo r b u ilding purposes Anothe r of these on ao bu da on the no rth side of the pl ate au served the pilgrims com ing from wh at is n o w the residency ia De le S an Pek along an v d S ig amplo o n d dis g an app eared in the s ame m anne r Descending a smell of sulphur anno u nces a lion of the Di eng of a less innocent i nfact of a de cide dly s at anic aspect : on this soil alw ays the uns u spected turns u p the rem ains of anancient civilis ation fo rcing themselves upon o u r attention together with impressive reminders of the subterrane an forces which extinguished it From a number of c avities on the S lope of the P angon an bare of vegetation a picture of desol ation noxious v apours rise an d bubbles of mu d are blown forth an d burst with a r u mbling noise H igh above th e rest works the K aw ah K id ang the deer kettle d growling th rowing the hot liquid ro u nd S pouting an with relish an d it is advis able to keep her well to leew ard on her d ays of gal a for she ch anges frequently her aim an d her mood an index of K al a s disposition when stirring the bowel s of the e arth Being the pulse of the Dieng so to speak she is regul arly excited to fi e rce r exertion by the rainy season di ffering also in this p artic u l ar from the Chondro di M u ka h e r riv al near the Pak aram an with whom she h as been confused even by geographe rs of n ame greatly to her disparagement since she comm ands a conside rably wider sphere of influence not scrupling to encro ach u pon the dom ain of her neighbours by moving about Wherever one pokes into the ground within her sphe re of action .
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2
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AP
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the ste am rushes out an d seething puddles are formed ; it is wary walking an d the wise will t ake warning from the foolh ardy Controleu r whose c u riosity prompted him a step too far : sinking through the uppe r crust into the boiling mu d he had his legs so b adly bu rnt th at he died of the con sequences an d was buried at Wonosobo inste ad of m arrying his Resident s dau ghter at Po o rwo rej o With its mofettes solfataras steam holes mud geysers sulphu ro u s l akes its tre acherously opening 1 an d closing ch asms l ast b u t not le ast its notorious 1 v alley of death the Di eng is the region above all others in volcanic J av a of miracles th at expo u nd th e ant agonism between frat ricide life an d de ath on our turbu l ent pl anet which continuou sly prepares for or recovers from sp asms of gene rative dest ru ction One of these Sp as ms on a grande r sc ale th an usu al in the short span of hum an history was the e ru ption of Krak ato a in1 8 8 3, which raised an d submerged isl ands shaking an d alte ring the S tr aits of S oond a a res u lt ant tid al w ave raz ing the towns of Anyer an d Che rin g in The Di eng some three h u ndred miles o ff responded faithfu lly as m ight h ave been expected the K awah K idang ro aring an d S pl ashing mud fu rio u sly the wall of the c rater l ake Chebong cracking in seve ral pl aces so th at p art of its w ater inste ad of flowing thro u gh the old ch annel now On f th h m n th d w ll w d nt G j M n gk m ly d n in g gi l m t mm n d yl n inJ vn l g n b t wh l v illag A vy tiv m f tt whi h th n ll th P k m n t th ti v l t d p t wh K i n g Balad vh d hi m f g d inth B t Y d ,
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T H E D IE N G
111
53
seeks its way through the fissures th u s created remunerative tob acco fi e lds being transformed into sw amps Such dis asters p re ach an eloqu ent sermon on the text hewn in stone by the bu ilders of the temples here erected to Siv a as K al a the Over thrower an d transmitted with the w is dom of ages by a l ater religion h appily e xp ressed by the Germ an poet ,
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Was lu lfles M en sa/r m sey nwas lzebe B lu m m k ussm d sc/zé fle z war doc! : balae n War m sze si n ie/ msey n mzkssen1 '
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The news th at a troop of strolling pl ayers had a rrived dispelled howeve r ide as of th at sort u n p al atable t ru th never proving successfu l against the ple as u rable excitement of the moment They were going to perform at the house of the reputedly we althiest m anof the pl ate au an d not the l e ss highly considered by his neighbou rs bec ause caught redh anded not once but repe atedly in h a ndling the forbidden as I he ard afterwards Living ne ar one of the enclosures tradition al ly a ssoci ated with the pyres which were extinguished when the H indu priests deserted their altars he gave the i onto the uppe r ten of Di eng society “ fl un t e rrifi e d by d aily dispo rting like an other y y m anifestations of cosmic potency S urrounded by his g an gods of the second rank he adaw tas welcomed me to the show M o u nted on sha m horses the actors delighted their au dience with a sh am battle which soon bec ame a single combat What i th fli v in g fki in g l vly flw th in t n If th gh th y b tif l th y m t nf d in g? ,
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M O N U M E N TA L J A V A
54
CH
AP
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between two v ali ant knights encou raged by m asked clowns fu nny yet exq u isitely gracefu l in their move ments : the sat/ ai r m w e of this people is pe rfectly d co rrect m atched with their elegance of c arri age an ness of speech an d i nn ate prop riety of deme ano u r The comedi ans stage properties did not amo u nt to m u ch an geni u s shone the m ore t iv e v en d t h e ir in b rilli antly : a tige r (fo r a h u nt of his highness o u r common u ncle followed the j ou st ) w as improvised with j u te b agging an d two pieces of wood t e presenti n g the j aws sn apping ferociou sly pe rh aps a compliment to the aw n g zo o/ami d p resent his biped equ iv ale n t inn ative estim ation as al re ady rem arked O r anall u sio nm ay h ave been intended to loc al events : not longer th an a week befo re P am an had tried to fo rce Wie lan dt s stable cooling his wrath when baffled o nS aram a s p u ps So m u ch fo r my recollections of the hist rionic exe rcises o n the Di eng an d now abo u t the temples ! I f Thom as H o rsfi e ld in his n arrative of the tou r he m ade th rou gh the isl and between 1 80 2 an d 1 80 7 me n tioned the so c alled B u ddh a ro ads it w as R affles who sent Co rneli u s Lieuten ant i n the Co rps of E nginee rs to s u rvey the architect u ral rem ains on the D i eng pl ate au prope r which the e arlie r t ravelle r h ad not visited Acco rdi n g to the o fficial acco u nt of his mission kept in the library of ,
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i m l inq ti n m k h im n l t lib ty l k ly t giv ffen ; f in gt th l d f th w d h p k th f hi p t d nl (p m n) g n df th (k k l ) whi h ti fi t th m tim h i lin g in g b l f in th t n m ig ti nf th l 1
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T H E D I EN G
111
55
the M u se u m of Antiq u ities at Leyden an d still u n p u blished he fo u nd wh atever was standing o f some d volc anic ashes forty g ro u ps cove red with cl ay an aptain u rly a fo u rth of the o rigin al height to ne C a p B ake r also commissioned by Raffles wo rked th ree weeks on the Di eng afte r his ex amin ation of the ru ins at P ramb an an a n d the Bo ro B u do o r J u ngh u hn whose obse rv ations d ate from 1 8 38 to 1 84 5 spe aks of mo re th an twenty temples in a wilde rness of m arshy woods The woods h ave dis appe ared the m arshes hold thei r own an d of his twenty temples only eight are left in a recognis able sh ape : five of them belong to the A rj u n incl u ding the o g roup the best p rese rved is the so c alled ho u se of S am ar do ro w at i an d G atot We rg o do ro o r B imo ; the A n K o ch o c ru mble a w ay even faste r th an the rest I t h as al re ady been rem arked th at the Di eng str u ct u res belong to the oldest inthe isl and the asz m a insc r iption t ransfe rred to B at avi a fu rnish l mn ing a reco rd of the D i eng civilis ation which goes They are inte resting b ack to 7 3 1 S ak a (A D “ to the I ndi a n antiq u ary w rote F e rg u sso n bec ause d simple an they are I ndi an temples p u re an d dedicated to I ndi an gods wh at (they ) te ll u s fu rther is th at if J av a got her B u ddhism from Gujerat an d the mo u ths of the I nd u s she got h e r d the mo u ths of the a an H ind u i sm from T e lin g an N or are (the y ) Dravidi an in an K istn ah y sense of the wo rd They are in storeys b u t not with cells nor an reminiscences of s u ch ; b u t they are y Ch al u kyan L ater le arning accepts this statement ,
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ca
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only with c au tio u s reserve Whethe r Ch al u ky an tho u gh it is pl ain even to the u nle arne d o r not th at e rected to S iv a the M ah adev a wo rshipped p rincip ally in his ch aracte r of Bh atara G u ru the d thei r fi rst divine te ache r to his m é tz Doorg a an bo rn Ganes a these temples radi ating the all soul in the fie rce gl are of the midday su nu nfolding thei r sec rets in the mellow moonbe ams of night part ake fu lly of their myste rio u s s u rro u ndings are integ ral po r tions of the g ro u nd they occ u py as m ay be s aid of all an cie n t J av anese bu ildings M en of gre at p owe r of im agin ation deep re asoni n g senti ment the b u ilde rs of these m arvels wo rking their tho u ghts u p to the sky resc u ed fo r u s the essence of the Die n Their app rehension g s p ast existence of u nive rs al h appiness Witho u t beginning or e n d sh arpened by the desi re to e n joy he aven on e arth lent immo rtality to the g re atness of a people eve ry ves tige of whom wo u ld h ave dis appe ared b u t fo r thei r c re ative enth u si asm Pr u rient p ru de ry keen on the scent of the n asty feels shocked at the li n d y am s lying ro u nd g ers an un able in its fl blown p u rity to gr asp the divinity y of ete rn al love in the poem of gene ration the u nion d the Devi in c au s ation an of the Dev a an d con ce pt io n of life The Ph ilistine sees little mo re th an ru bbish he aps of stone of no e arthly u se except as h avens of refu ge when o u t shooting melzw zs an d overtaken by rain I n the R aw a B aleh G amb ang we find five s u ch cl u stered together the ck cm azs A rj u n o with the ho u se of S am ar S rikandi (Ongko .
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I
CH A N D I A RJ U N O O N T H E D EN G
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T or S ru mo asu m o ami K ( d Sembrad a (S e pro po ) the chief he ro of the Aj i ) an E m l a Y u aa being honoured in the midst of family an d friends incl u ding his fu nny an d faithfu l se rv ant 1 The é aZa maé am o rn ament of the entrance to the ck cm a z t e lls its t ale ; so do the empty A rj u n o niches designed for free st anding st atuettes dissolved ' into sp ace Like the c/zan az S rik andi it w as once s u rrou nded by a w all an d anothe r point of re sembl ance is the sm all rectang u l ar bu ilding called the ck cm az S am ar prob ably destined fo r sec u l ar p u rposes ; of the S rik andi d epende n cy howeve r only the base canbe t raced The ck an az Sembrad a d det ail devi ates somewh at in arc hitect u ral pl an an be stu died an d the g ro u nd ide a of the deco ration c an to best adv antage in the afi cm az Po o n t ad e wa finest of the g rou p exq u isitely graceful on its high b ase ment H ere ag ain t he maé am orn ament prev ails bu dding into le aves an d flowers chiselled with a ch aste app reci ation of the esthetic p rinciple of self control : I nder B esck mn éun g z ezgt si cla er st aer U nder the t ape ring roofs fallen or falli n g M ezste r in which give the inner c hambers anair o f ih desc rib able eleg ance notwithstanding the cramped dimensions im ages of holiness stood on pedestals ; the im ages h ave been removed he aven knows whither an d even the pedest als h ave fared b adly at the h ands of s ac rilegio u s robbe rs digging for hidden d t y with th li n tig h d B np ti th K l Si v d ll v d v in g th tim fi n i hin g ll thin g n i tin g M k m n t t d t y f V h t b t p in in p t f whi h nti n ll di t d C nle m y b p fi t bly L D Po o
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M O N U M E N TA L J AVA
58
CH
AP
tre as u re Tr u mo K asu mo s u pposed to keep sentinel ove r his Man di (in b as relief north side ) c annot b u t be scand alised at modern methods of d modern beh avio u r in gener al rese arch an da The mo rass shows in the dry se ason the fo u n tions of bu ildings reg u l arly arranged lining streets which intersected at right angles over a conside r Their dis able p art of the R aw a B aleh G amb ang position has been adv anced to s u ppo rt the theo ry th at the pop u l ation of the Di eng lived in wooden hou ses b u ilt o nthose s u bstru ctu res of stone The theo ry th at the s u pe rst ru ctu res of stone h ave been carried away an d the s u bme rged s u bst r u ct u res left becau se not So e asy to get at is j u st as pl au sible ; pe rh aps a little m ore so B u t wh ateve r they were temples an d p riestly o r p riv ate dwellings of wood d e the o ffi ci ating cle rgy thei r assistants an o r sto n the inh abit an ts of the city m i n i ste ring to thei r fl e s hly needs m u st h ave s u ff e red a good de al fro m the dampness of the soil the pl ate au offe ri n g alre ady in those e arly d ays a field of r ich p romise for the experiments of hydrau lic engineers Among d ditches of less impo rtance the G u w a c an als an A swo to m o a cloaca m ax zm a some twelve cent u ries old still relieves the pl ain of its s u pe rfl u ou s w ate r Acco rding to the legend for nothing in this loc ality goes witho u t at le ast one — acco rding to the legend then the s u bte rraneo u s p ass age was du g by A sw o to mo on his expeditio nto the Di eng fo r the pu rpose of sm ashing the Pan dawas an d ne ar ing A rj u n o s residence he p u shed his w a y up to the ,
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T HE
DIENG
59
s u rface from dist ance to distance spying how far he had yet to contin u e his underg rou nd m arch Descending into one of the peep holes he m ade in a se ason of extreme d rought I was able to crawl on to the next throu gh mud an d debris which blocked my fu rther progress an d u n able to crawl o u t on a level fifteen or twenty feet l ower the w atercourse sloping dee per an d deeper down I h ad to ret u rn to my point of ing ress The glory of this fe at diminishes in the light of my knowledge of the circ u mstance th at the Di eng pl ateau h arbou rs no sn akes s ave the decorative n a as of temple g architecture an d th at a comp anion followed my movements above gro u nd ; had we been provided with ropes we might h ave c arried our wo rk of exploration much further— but th at m u st w ait for another time Of the rare plan t which grow s nowhere b u t i n A swo t o m o s burrow an d owes its g rowth to his copious pe rspiration while at his t ask a fern possessing r are q u alities highly benefici al to him who pulls it out b y the roots I saw or rathe r d felt nothing in g roping my way th ro u gh mire an d arkness T aking its co u rse in a direction inve rse to the mole m an s initi al t u nnel bo ring his G u w a un begins at the A rj u n pretentiou s o temples as an d rain an d r u ns for about h alf a mile sl anting towa rd the sou rce of the river Dolok where J unghuhn has set u p two li n g ers d most be autifu l The l argest rem ai n ing an di We rg o do ro te mp l e on the Di eng is the Man g? Q y H St P t i k v b nnth Dié n ,
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M O N U M E N TA L J AVA
60
CH
AP
.
or B imo where the P an gon an rises o u t of the R aw a s opin ion Glonggong N otwithstanding Fe rg u sso n competent c ritics de riving thei r concl u sions from the ho ri z ontal lines of the roof sto reys m aintain its Dravidi an or Southern I ndi an inste ad of Ch al u ky an ch ar acter The niches with b u sts which imp ress one as windows with people poki n g o u t their he ads to see who is dist u rbing thei r q u iet s u ggest anapp ro ach to idea s fu rthe r developed in the architect u re of the pl ain of P ramban an These d at c u rio u s persons look o u t only at the back an the sides ; the niches of the roof i nfront ove r the p rojecting porch with é aZa maé am o rn ament are With its ent rance facing e ast in all empty cont radistinction to those of the other temples on the pl ateau which face west the Man di B imo possesses also not able pec u li arit ies in the det ails of its sc u lpt u re : the d ou ble lotu s of the cornice d dimin u tive b o trees of uncommon lot u s b u ds an sh apes etc while the u pward tape ring stru ctu ral de n design displ ays a te n c y t o the slightly c u rved lines so de arly loved by G reek builders of the best d ad apted by the m aste rs of e arly Gothic period an The l arge r lowe r niches h ave been despoiled archit raves an d mouldi n gs festooned with foli age d seed pods divide the open sp aces ro u nd flowe rs an abo u t in a t astefu l sobe r m a nne r exciting witho u t 1
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M O N U M E N TA L J AVA
62
CH
AP
.
d exp anded Vill ages c ame into existence an The inh abitants need stone s u bstr u ct u res in b u i l ding their houses an d it is a m atte r of co u rse th at they u se temple stones f o r th at p u rpose ; these are here much sm aller th an those of the mon u ments i n the v alley of the Progo an d the pl ain of Pr amb an an e asily carried off an d exactly of the right si z e This is the c ase of the spoli ation of the temples on the Di eng in a n u tshell B u t it shou ld be added o t the only off that the n atives are n enders So a . E rp s m u ch indeed is implied in M ajor v anecdote of a to u rist who examining the st atu ary adorning the gro u nds of the pasan g m ana rem ark able collection formed from miscell aneo u s loot Was invited to m ake his choice the selected plunder to be delivered at Wo n osobo in consideration of five g u ilders (a little o v er eight shillings ) M any others h ad the s ame expe rience : n u mbe rless st atues an d stones c arved into o rn ame n t h ave been appropri ated d uno f fi ci al visito rs to enrich m useums by offici al an an d priv ate collections The appointment of Wie lan dt Sr l ate r of Wi e lan d t J r as keeper d of the antiq u ities in a of the pasan g r a/za nan region of arch aeological interest equ al to Pompeii an d H ercul aneum witho u t an y fu nds wh atsoever at their dispos al was only anincident in the con t in uous f arce pe rfo rmed by the D u tch E ast I ndi an Government in all its rel ations to monumental J av a up to the d ate of its l abo riou s confinement of the d after as I sh all Arch aeo l ogic al Commission — an h ave abund ant occ asion to show : a farce w ith .
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T H E D I EN G
111
63
conseq u ences sad to contemplate This applies to a ntiq u ities o f every desc ription I t u rn to my di ary : I n different pl aces when digging l ayers of ashes are fo u nd with ch arred h u m an bones imbedded an d often t rinkets The n atives however keep their t reasu re troves sec ret for fear of the Gove rn ment which h as dec reed an d rightly rese rving its rights th at they m ay not sell witho u t as k ing fo r an d obt aining pe rmission b u t app rop ri ates eve ry thing it he ars of at ridic u lo u sly low p rices ; a good d bo u ght priv ately not d e al is the refo re sold an withstanding the p rohibition even by o ffici als ; a system atic search neve r h aving been attempted u ne arthed none the less fine t rifl e s are an d not e s either ; l ast nigh t in the pasti n always t ri fl g m /i an some rings we re shown to me ; the owne r acting ve ry myste rio u sly p rod u ced at l ast a st atu ette from under his éaj n abo u t six inches of solid gold be au tifu lly w ro u ght ; its m ate eq u al in height m ate ri al an d wo rkm anship he h ad bee nfo rced to sell acco rding to his story for seventy guilde rs anted mo re to p art with this less th he w an ( d m any time s one an d it is certa inly worth m any an th at su m ; a ch ange in the u s u al sordid Govern ment practice wo u ld res u lt in rem ark able discoveries ; insc ribed stone was recently as D r L told me an l a id b are when trying to h ave a look at it the s am e day his inform ant told him th at it had alre ady been sa/z ( t ro u ble spirited away to prevent sn ) not m u ch is necess ary to be sentenced to k r ak al (h ard l abo u r in the ch ain g ang ) at Wonosobo .
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CH
AP
is tr u e the Gove rnment sent some one to the Di eng abo u t fifty years ag o to photog raph the d fo rt u n ately the temples as they then existed an aving sb e r e n who h v an K in O perator chosen w as I g m ade his deb u t in J av a as a member of anopera tro u pe developed a rare artistic sense in port raying the deteriorating o u tlines of the ancient fanes of the isl and B u t the re the m atte r rested u ntil the compl aints bec ame too lo u d an d in 1 9 1 0 hopes were held o u t th at steps wo u ld be taken to cle ar the ru i n s of parasitic vegetation to d rain the pl ate au by repai ring the t renches an d cond u its still in wo rking order since the H i n d u pe riod incidentally to conside r the possibility of restori n g the s anct u aries not yet t u mbled down N ames I he ard in connec tion with this ch arge m ake me t re m ble w rites a co rrespondent from B atavi a fo r a repetitio nof the v andalism committed in the pl ain of P ramb an an p artic u l arly the crimin al ass au lts on the Ma n di d the e/zan Pl ahos an an a i Se w u whe re a Gove rnment commissione r t ried to arrest fu rthe r dec ay on the homoeop athic principle : si mi li a sim i/i é n s en mn tn n Gove rnment solicit u de for conse rv ation p roves often more dest ru ctive th an simple neglect an d to take anill u st ration from the Di eng itself othe rs will ( be c u lled in the co u rse of my obse rv ations from a plentifu l s u pply of o ffici al be ti ses an d Man es if not wo rse in othe r loc alities ) no sooner w as gene ral attention d rawn to the enigm atic sign desc ribed by d copied in his st and ard wo rk from a J u ngh u hn an rock between the l akes Warn a an d Pengi l on th an It
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D I EN G
THE
m
65
it began to fade Still qu ite clear in 1 8 8 5an d up to 1 8 9 5 despite its h aving been exposed to wind an d we athe r d u ring ten cent u ries (as s u rmised ) it d fainter afte r th at ye ar the process bec ame fainte r an of a g rad u al loss of colo u r being d u ly noted at s u bsequ ent visits u ntil in 1 90 2 I fo u nd it h ardly disting u ish able To m ake u p fo r the inj u ry a Con t role u r discove red in 1 88 9 s u pplement ary tokens not bl ack b u t re d on the s ame B at u T u lis o r W atu K e t eq as the n atives rather c all it monkey stone bec au se they recognise in the figu re reco rded by J u ngh u hn a likeness to the anim al referred to The sm aller red lette rs o r wh atev e r they we re i n tended for ste adily inc re asing in n u mber appe aring in pl aces where I h ad neve r noticed anything befo re I cou ld not help s u specting the little shepherds who d h ardly vent u re an look so innocent an d shy an of knowing mo re abo u t a nswer when spoken to this mi rac u lo u s g rowth of a hieroglyphic insc ription th an their artlessness implied Fo r all their stolid d mien the n ative s are exceedingly fond of a joke an wh at gre ate r sport canbe im agined th an to get the d of E u rope an cent res of Wise m e nof B at avi a an e ru dition by the e ars inciting them to raise always mo re le arned d u st in thei r e fforts to deciphe r the impossible l ang u age u ndeciphe rable ch ar act e rs of an e ach being cocks u re of the infallibility of his indi vid u al interp retation ? I f however we h ave not so his m ark the ghost to do with K ro m o o r Wo n g of the B atu T u lis m u st be held responsible for the incorpore al inh abit ants of the m any amon g .
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AP
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c aves in this neighbo u rhood the dwelle r beneath d the monkey stone is of g re atest occ u lt potency an the good people who come from the adjoining low d J ogj a k arta l and districts even from S u rak arta an to he ar an d t ransl ate the voices of the Di eng rep ai r hither afte r part aking of good advice in the B imo temple to sem en /i (m ake thei r s al u tation ) befo re the d s u ccess ) entrance an d ask slan mt (blessing an on their fo resh adowed u n de rtakings N octu rn al devotions inside the c ave of the W atu K e t éq on a l u cky right l u cky c arefu lly c alc u l ated night me ans wealth an d whoev er d ares to b rave the u ntold resident sp rite of d arkness with th a t desi re in his d still rem ains a poor devil he art as very few do an h as do u btless skipped a wo rd of power in m u tte ring his inc an t ations o r disregarded some othe r essenti al observ ance To the love r of mou nt ain scene ry it is far more p rofitable to w ait fo r d awn ne ar the t ri ang u l ation pill ar an d point of j u nction of fo u r residencies : S am arang Pek alo n g an B any u m as an d the B agelen with a fifth the K adu only a few paces o ff when the Eye of Day rises to divide the w ate rs behind the d the rack of clo u ds an mo u ntains an d to the no rth an d the so u th of the isl and the se a begins to glimme r d or ange ti n in the az u re an ts sent befo re to meet the melting g ray of v anqu ished d arkness Follow ing its co u rse in all compassi n g space the sou l ente rs i nto silent comm u nion with n at u re the divine c re a tion of the s u p remely divine which te aches feeble men how to worship S u ch moments bring a wholesome ,
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TH E DI ENG
111
67
ch astening of the flesh an d as we descend goaded by the fie rce d arts of the conq u ero r ove rhe ad who m akes the e arth w rap he rself in he r v apo u ry robe of p rotection veiling the grand vision as we descend whe re the r u nnels descend th at feed the d the T u lis winding its w ay to the K aw ah Seray u an K idang w e find the pl ain with the c an ai s one immense temple of ado rat i on The Vedic s u btle body ye arns to ente r the she ath of p raye r to be mo u lded by its cre ato r into the fo rm fit fo r u nion with the S pi rit of the wo rld ; respi ration becomes to the beatitu de of m anifest tru th of fin al aspir atio n rest in extinction of si nan d so rro w So d sh ame an p ass the hou rs in p u rific ation in desire of a sp ark of the tho u ght wh ich bre athes life into m o rtifi cat io n of self Then at the p assing of the light with the l ast fl u sh from the West in awe inspiring stillness the q u ive ring stars lift their heads to w atch the holy city of the de ad ; in cle ar toned stillness the night wind mo aning the R aw a l amenting the lost civilis ation of a lost religion whose symbols rem ain b u t are not u nderstood a mo u rning fo r h u m anity l abo u ring in v ain The Dieng h as been repop u l ated with a race between whose fancifu l ide als rooted in d the rap acity of fo reign r u le rs a forgotten p ast an no l asting acco rd seems possible I s it o rd ained d the m aste rs sh all contin u e th at they the thralls an in thei r present rel ations ? Or will they dis appe ar in thei r t u rn an d to q u ote J ungh u hn this mo u nt ain region revert to its free n atu ral st ate ? Perh aps i n the ho u r of uphe av al n ative seers prophesy when ,
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M O N U M E N TA L J AVA
68
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safety sh all be found by none except to whom the J ust Reckoner grants it d min g ling in one An me asu re which comprises the j amanbu ild the time of bondage an d the fut u re their dim notions of d their M ah adev a the B e n Destroyer an t e fi ce n conception of the dispens ation of the B ook the leade rs of religio u s exe rcise in the villages abide by their advice of submission until the tru e believers win the day a day of glory for I sl am sure to arrive in the circul ar cou rse of e xistence which is nothing b u t S ansara in attainment of Moslim brothe rhood which is nothing but B rahm a Vih ara the s u blime condition of love M eanwhile hearing is to be practised ; haply it will le ad to the comprehension of a lesson inc u lc ated by e ach of the three creeds am alg am ated in the J av anese mind an d best ex pressed in the for m bo rrowed from a fo u rth : The thing th at h ath been is th at which sh all be ; an d th at which is done is th at which sh all be done — o r in the version of the greatest poet of o u r own ag e .
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M O N U M E N TA L J AVA
0
CH
AP
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within the bou nd aries of the l atte r E xcepting the B o ro B u do o r an d Me n do o t it comp rises the finest an d most famou s mon u ments of Cent ral J av a which from olden times h ave been held in gre at vene ration by the popu l ation even in their neglected condition when red u ced to little mo re th an he aps of overg rown debris l airs of wild anim als F reed from their l u x u rio u s vegetation an d exc av ated architect u ral rem ains of the first order c ame to light with sc u lpt u red ornament nowhere else s u rp assed in richness of detail an d correctness of e xec u tion S u rrou nded by ru ins of a m ainly B u ddhist ch aracte r these b u ildings we re consecrated to the H i n du T rinity with Siv a leading the T rim o o rt i as B h atara d Te ache r of the Wo rld Gu ru M aster an A d ate recently discove red 88 6 S ak a A D r accord o ( ing to anothe r re ading 99 6 S ak a (A D points to the pe riod when S iv ai sm in J av a h ad al re ady become strongly impregn ated with B u ddhism a ci rc u mstance fu lly bo rne o u t by the extern al deco ration Among the n atives the P ramb an an ru ins go by ai Lo ro the n ame of c/zan J ongg rang bec au se of the legend connected with thei r o rigin Once u pon a time P ramban an was ru led by a gi ant king R at u Boko possessed of an only d au ghter P r incess J ong d anadopted son R aden G u polo Whose grang an fathe r h ad been killed by comm and of the K ing of Pengging H aving sworn revenge Raden Gu polo feigned love fo r the be au tifu l d au ghter of th at Th titl L d ignt l dy fv y high bi th .
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AP
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foe down at a distance too far to distingu ish a man ree i n from a wom an o r a gi ant from a w ar i n t g B amb ang K an d ilaras fled reporting at D am ar M oyo s c ave an ded to t ry once d was comm an mo re with the assist ance of his b rother Bondowoso d ilaras They accomplished nothing B ambang K an aw ay even befo re the b attle commenced to hide ran himself in a ravine whe re the t roops of Pramban an cou ld not follow him an d Bondowoso blown off his legs by a p u ff from Ratu Boko s fo rmi dable lu ngs sou ght s afety in p recipita te ret reat to the mo u nt ain au ght h im a Then D M oyo t am ar S o o m b in g m agical wo rd which prono u nced twice wo u ld m ake d give him him big an d he avy as aneleph ant an the st rength of a tho u s and of those anim als Thu s Bondowoso retu rned to Pramb an an where armed he killed h alf of R at u Boko s warrio rs in thei r sleep while the othe r h alf w aking u p concent rated b ack ward with the enemy in hot p u rs u it to tell thei r king wh at had h appened Nobody sh all stir s aid he ; I myself alone will settle this little b u siness M eeting Bondowoso near the vill age T angkis an he beg an d fu me as h ard as he co u ld b u t to ro ar as lou d an to his astonishment his b re ath l acked the acc u stomed d so he h ad to fight fo r his life h and to powe r an h an d I t was a te rrible fight : ho u ses an d g ardens were trampled down fo rests rooted u p an d mo u nt ains kicked ove r while the pe rspi ration d ripping from the bodies of the enraged combat ants -
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P RA M BA N A N
w
73
fo med a l arge pool the Tel aga Po win i yan To end the stru ggle Bondowoso i n a s u preme e ffort sei z ed Ratu Boko ro u nd the middle an d threw him into th at pool where he s ank an d drowning m ade d the e arth t remble with a l ast roar of ange r an distress R aden Gu polo he aring the noise h astened to his assist ance with a few drops of the w ater of life in a cu p anelixi r prep ared by M b o q Lo ro J ongg rang — only a few drops b u t eno u gh to res u scitate the dead gi ant king if p u t to his lips dilaras however d rew his bow an d B amb ang K an from the pl ace where he h ad w atched the fight shot the c u p o u t of the h and of R aden G u polo who thereu pon att acked Bondowoso B ambang K an dilaras let mo re arrows fly at the gi ant w arrio rs of P ramb an an who now ru shed u p to avenge their king s de ath I n the gene ral melee Bondowoso killed also R aden G u polo an d cu t off his head which he th re w aw ay in ane asterly di rection oo n ch anging it i nto a mo u ntain the Gu n g G ampeng ; d he art he th rew away in a so u th b u t his b ra ins a n weste rly direction ch angi n g the m into anothe r re u pon k al on mo u nt ain the G u n W o The oon g g he defe ated the remaining h alf of the army of Pr amb an an an d rep aired to Pengging cl aiming the rew ard fo r his brother The king of th at co u nt ry gl ad to be rid of the gi ants was as good as his “l k l d n d p w n m n l T g y nd ivd f m w n nth t lk b n whi h th d inh v m n fl d d i fi ld i n vf din g p t t d h it f R t B k in g ny t b thi l g n N t th l t h d ntill n ight if w m y b li vth p pl wh dw ll nth b n k f iy n th T l g P wi n 1
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M O N U M E N TA L J AVA
74
ca
n .
wo rd wedded his be au tifu l d au ghter to B amb ang K an dilaras an d appointed Bondowoso his V iceroy in P ramban an with the rank an d title of bn fi ati T aking u p his abode in the palace of the l ate R aden Gupolo Bondo woso h appened to see M b o q Loro J ongg rang who contin u ed living in the b atonof Ratu Boko an H e asked d fell in love with her d she abho rring the m an he r h and in m arri age an d one so u n Who had killed he r fathe r an pre possessing in co u nten ance too b u t afraid to provoke his displeas u re by a bl ank refu s al answered th at she was willing to become his wife on condition of his providing a s u it able sasm / mno r wedd ing present nothing more n o r less th an six deep wells in six b u ildings the like of which no mo rtal eye had ever seen with a tho u s and stat u es of the fo rme r kings of P ramban an an d their divi ne ancesto rs t he gods in d b u ilt an he aven all to be du g an d c arved in one night Bondowoso c alled in the help of his father the recl u se D am ar M oyo of the K ing of Pengging an d of his b rothe r B amb ang K an dilaras all th ree of whom responded going to Pramb an an an d u niting in praye r on the da y befo re the night agreed u pon by the spirits of the lowe r regions who had been comm andeered for the task by the s aint of the mo u nt ain S o o mb i n The evening fell an d as g soon as d arkness enveloped the e arth a wei rd so u nd w as he ard of invisible h ands b u sy l aying fo u nd ations d scu lpturing stat u ary e recting w alls an B y h alf p ast three o clock the six wells we re du g the six d nine hundred an b u ildings completed an d ninety ,
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M O N U M E N TA L J AVA
76
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The reader will recognise i n this legend the ho ary e astern m ateri al of m any others c u rrent also in western l ands I t pe rv ades the legend ary lore connected with the p l ain of Pramb an an in widest sense an d one of its m any v ari ations to be recorded di far ther on applies speci ally to the Buddhist Man “ Sewu or thousand temples only a little distance 1 from the Loro J onggrang group ; in fact origin ally ad apted to account for the m any ruins sc attered over a v ast area in th at region it has t aken sep arate forms to meet the requirements of sep arate loc alities Ap art from tradition we owe the oldest extant description of the P ramb an an antiquities to the E ast I ndi a Comp any s serv ant Lons at S am arang who wrote in 1 7 33 The Governor General v an l mho ff referred to them in 1 7 46 an d R affles his successo r d u ring the British I nterreg n um not s atisfied with d talking alone commissioned Cornelius w riting an aar to su rv e y them an With Warde n d m ake pl ans fo r reconstruction After 1 8 1 6 things returned to the accustomed neglect : A sho rt stay in the pl ain of 2 a a a a a n a Pr mb n n s ys uthority al re ady qu oted is s u fficient to note th at thous ands of v alu able hewn an d sc u lptured stones h ave been an d still are used for all sorts of purposes from time im memo ri al gre at qu antities of stone h ave been (an d .
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v ery p rec i se ridi cu l e this app ell ati o n which o rigin ate d i n th e childish
d lity fth ntiv wh p i t inp yin g h m g t t t fD g t lly th i p t ifi d Mb if it w Jn gg n g ; b t th l nm f q L th g p b in g n k nwnwhy h ld w j t di tinti nnt d nt d by th l d fin it t m P mb n an ? M j th ntill C p tai n T N E ? inhi p t t th B t m nS i ty dS i n J n a y 1 qf A t n 9 9 cre
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P RA M BA N A N
w
77
still are ) taken fro m Pramb an an by his H ighness the S o o ltanof J ogj ak arta generally once or twice a ye ar this h appens if I am well informed in compli ance with a w ritten dem and fi at e d by the loc al au thorities The found ation in 1 8 8 5 of the Arch aeologic al Society of J ogj ak arta which u nde r took the exc av ation o f the p arts of the Loro J ongg rang g ro u p cove red with deb ris an d v eg e t at io nan d the cle aring of the whole did little to amelio rate the sit u ation with respect to the c arry ing away from the Pramb an an temples spe aking collectively of stones fo r the bu ilding of ho u ses facto ries etc an d of o rn ament fo r the deco ration of d g ardens p riv ate gro u nds an Tho u gh bills we re posted all over the ru ins incl u ding Do o rg a s ali as Loro J o n gg ran g s s anct u m prohibiting by order of d goddesses th at S ociety the s alving of gods an with ear e an d the defacing of the w alls with inscriptions its members themselves dragged st atu es aw ay to fill a so c alled m u se u m of thei r cont riv ance at the provinci al c apit al disloc ating things of be au ty ranging the di sj ecm mem é m on sc affoldings in a shed as crockery on the shelv e s of a c u pboard The mon u ments of P ramban an being p rim arily m au sole a thei r first concern was to dig for the the seven t re as u res b u ried with the cz sapmm tn ashes of the de ad u nder the im ages of the deities h allowing those perish able rem ains The pl u nde r consisted in u rns contai ning besides the ashes coins d ru bies an d other p recio u s stones pieces of gold an silver le af with cut figures (serpents tortoises ,
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78
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flowe rs ) strips of gold foil inscribed with ancient ch aracters fragments of copper an d gl ass etc The mortu ary pits e asiest to rifle h ad alre ady been emptied before the semi o ffi cial spoilers tu rned their This ch apte r is not the most attention to them glorio u s in the history of the A rch aeologic al Society of J ogj ak arta which on the othe r h and started a wo rk too long neglected by the D u tch Government c id e n t even afte r Raffl o rt I n e s vigoro u s initi al eff the schemes of the s u pe rfici al ally it promoted yet very ambitio u s p u shing to the front on the strength of wh at shou ld h ave been pu t to the c redit of mo re c ap able b u t to their det riment mo re modest l abo u re rs in the arch aeologic al field : I t is not always the most dese rving ho rses th at get the oats s ays a D u tch p rove rb The S iv ai te ch aracte r of the temples of P ram ban an wou ld be s u fficiently indic ated if the re we re no othe r p roofs by the sep u lch ral c avities they d which define them as the mon u ments of in close an a g ravey ard consecr ated to the memo ry of the gre at an d mighty of H in d u M at aram who wo rshipped Siv a as M ah adev a the S u preme God Parame sv ara the M ake r the M aintainer the M arre r to m ake ag ain Sepu lchral pits or wells are indeed the S iv ai te h all m ark in the architectu re of J av a an d here at Pramban an we find in so far as p rese rved the finest of the edifices raised to encomp ass an d revet s u ch pits temple tombs b u ilt fo r the g lo rifi ca tion of the C re ator in cre ative conscio u sness highest boon g ranted to hum anity a glimmering of his All -
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P RA M B A N A N
79
So u l which le aving the d u st to ret u rn to dust aspires to u nion with the U nc re ated A cent ral gro u p of eight sh rines once s u rro u nded by number less sm alle r ones w itnesses i nsobe rness of well b al anced o u tline i n precision of detail to the exq u isite art of those H ind u J av anese m aste r b u ilders who l ike the architects of o u r old c athed rals were u nconce rned as to the O pinion of m anb u t h ad the ado rati on of the godhe ad in mind an d m ade the whole wo rld p art ake of the divine blessing which q u ickened he art an d h and whethe r then descending from S iv a s n atu re as the essence of the T ri m o o rt i or from the s u blime t ru th sym The m arvels b o lise d in the Christi an H oly Trinity of design an d exec u tion still st anding at Pramban an i n thei r dil apid ated state on a te rrace e xc av ated in 1 8 9 3—4 we re arranged with the sm alle r ones now altogethe r gone in a squ are whose sides faced the c ardin al points The m ate ri al u sed in their con st ru ction was a kind of t rachyte which origin ally yellowish an d h ard to chisel i n to sh ape has ass u med d by the richness of the a d ark g ray colo u r an sc u lpt u red orn ament gives an impression as if e asily mo u lded like w ax The th ree weste rn temples of which the one in the m iddle consec rated di to S iv a or according to the n atives the Man Loro J ongg rang p roper is the l argest correspond e ach with a sm alle r st ru ct u re to the e ast ; still sm aller c/i an ai s bo u nd the sp ace between the two d so u th rows to the no rth an The b u ildings dedic ated to the T rim o o rt i set squ arely with a ,
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80
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AP
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sq u are projection on each side rest on b asements of the s ame polygonou s confo rm ation so m u ch in favo u r with the architects of th at pe riod ; the inner rooms are on anelev ated level becau se of thei r position ove r the v au lt like comp artme n ts s aved o u t d canbe re ached by stai r i nthe s u bstru ct u res an c ases once provided with po rches le ading to the storeyed g alle ries Vestiges of 1 57 dimin u tive a is o u tside the ramp art which enci rcled the c an cent ral g ro u p testify to the former existence of d m any mo re sh u t in by a second an m an y an d a thi rd demolished w all A closer inspection of the ru i n s reve aling beau ties not yet dep arted le ads to an apprehension of wh at h as been ir revoc ably lost These temples of the th ree gods who are b u t one alw ays reminded me in their p athetic desol ation of efarfe i tczs of S anta M ari a d a Victo ri a ; the capel/as in wh at is incomplete howeve r u nfinished at B atalh a h as ru n to dec ay at P ramb an an — the re the b u d ding d arrested blossomi n promise an g of anartistic ide a here the sc atte red pet als of the fu ll blown flowe r ru dely b roken off its stem S iv a is the keynote of the Pramb an an gro u p S iv a the J ag ad the Bh at ara G u ru according to his p rev alent title in the isl and I nthe temple which bears his n ame he appe ared as the le ader in the ex t e rio r ch apel looking so u th his wife Doorga looks no rth ; thei r fi rst bo rn G anes a looks west The l atte r sitting on his lot u s cushio nis represented as t a the eleph ant dep rived of one of his the Ek adan tusks when fighting Parashu R am a ; a third eye in ,
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P RAM BA N A N
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81
his forehe ad betokens his keenness of sight ; h e wears in his c rown the emblem atic sk u ll an d c rescent of his father ; one of his left h ands b randishes his father s battle ax e ; one of his right h ands holds the st ring of be ads suggesting p rayer ; his fathe r s n ak e flis st ru ng ro u nd his pawi m the hooded sn left shoulder an d b re ast Doorga his mother born from the fl ames which proceeded from the mou ths of the gods stands on the stee r she killed when the terrific anim al h ad stormed I ri dra s heaven an d h u mili ated the immort als ; he r eight h ands wield d other gifts bestowed u pon her by the we apons an the deities at thei r delivery : Vishn u s disc u s S u rya s arrows etc etc while he r n ethermost right h and sei z es the enemy s t ail an d h e r nethermost left h and the sh aggy locks of the demo nM ah e so who t ries to esc ape with the monste r s life This m agnificent d ye t within piece of sc u lptu re highly d ram atic an the limits of pl astic art the u nknown m aker h aving i nstinctively obeyed the r u les fo rm u l ated in Lessing s L aok o onsome tho u s and ye ars afte r his l abo u rs were ended is the pet rified L ady J ongg rang victim of I t does not m atte r do wo so s revengefu l love Bo n to the n ative th at S iv a has alw ays cl aimed her as his conso rt if not u nde r the n ame of Doorga then u nder th at of K ali or U m a ever since she P arv ati the M other of N at u re divided herself into th ree fem ale entities to m arry he r th ree sons who are none b u t he who sits enthron ed as M ah adev a in the inner .
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M O N U M E N TA L J AVA
82
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ifi ch amber looking e ast with his less pl acid pe rso n ara disv c ations the dw mpak zs (doo rkeepe rs ) N an d c u dgel an d Mahak ala the wielde rs of trident an d g u arding the entrance s u pported by demi gods an heroes The coloss al stat u e of their heavenly lo rd broken into pieces b y the falling roof has been cz ( lot u s restored an d repl aced on its padmasan d i um c u shion ) I n this sh ape the god we ars the i n crown ith sk c d rescent h as a third eye in his u ll a n w ( ) fo rehe ad an d a cobra st ru ng ro u nd his left sho u lde r an d bre ast his body decked with a tiger s skin rests his au reole ; one of his left ag ainst the fi m é a ands right h ands holds his fl fl ap one of his h y his st ring of be ads ; of his t rident only the stick rem ains Siv a the one of d re adfu l ch arm is everywhere either pe rsonified o r in his attribu tes he domin ates the exte rn al deco ration of the Vishn u an d the B rahm a temples too in the l atter c ase as g u m even to the exclusion of all othe r gods the middle c an ai of the e aste rn ro w facing his princip al shrine h as his w ican a the b u ll the one to the no rth his sm alle r im age while in the third to the so u th wholly demolished no st at u ary canbe t raced The inne r ch ambe rs of the s u bo rdin ate b u ildings show more pl ainly th an th at of S iv a which is adorned with flowe ry orn ament th at the Siv ai te style con e en t rat e d o rn ament ation rathe r on the exterior th an on the interior The fo u r statu es of Brahma the m aster of the fou r crowned co u nten ances who lies sh attered among the debris of his temple an d the fo u r st atues ,
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M O N U M E N TA L J AVA
84
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ttach ing to the fascin ation exercised by the m ain building they supplement an d whose decor ation stri ctly S iv ai t ic on the inside while p art aking of th e Buddhistic on the o u tside h as racked m any brains d pr ayer bell s for an expl an ation The b o t rees an profusely employed in i ts extern al embellishment a together with figu res agree able to the B o dh isatv theory h ave led some to adv ance the opinion th at it is a p u rely Buddhist c reation tho u gh perh aps tinged with Siv ai te notions They were met with th e objecti o n th at there is no sign of a dag o b as dis t in g B uddhist fe at u re ; th at the riddle of the g u ish in resembl ance between the stat u ary on the outside of the S iv a temple an d the convention al repre senta tion of Bo dhisatv as co u ld find its solution in the c anon i s atio nor de ifi catio nof kings an d famous chiefs a practice as old as ancestor worship which held its own in J av a from pre H indu d ays up to o u r own H oweve r this m ay be if the Pramb an an d especi ally the o n temples an e p articul arly dedic ate d to the great god of the T rim o o rti pre ached orthodox S iv ai sm to the elect of its innermost convictio n while tainted externally with the heresy of the deniers of the existence of gods the indubitably do o t reve rses the process Buddhist Me n This an d the syncretis m discernible i n ne arly all the ck an di s of J av a shows the religio u s tolera nce of the J av anese in the H indu pe riod And religiously tolerant they are still as tru e believe rs in the true faith of I sl am ; the fan aticis m one occasion ally he ars of roots r ather in discontent from economic c auses a
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thought divert the attention from the divine ide a embodied in S iv a or from the int roduction to its a initi ating underst anding prov ided by the R amay an the beholder s intelligence by degrees All is so wel l b al anced th at the lowe r g u ides to the higher in whetting compre h ensive desi re First on reach ing the terrace star ti n g from the low level of vulgar interest curiosity an d symp athy are awakened by the epic which sh ared popu l ar favo u r with the B r am Yn aa l t is not known who enriched the literatu re of J av a with a ve rsion of the R amay an a ad apted to J av anese req u irements ; as in the case of the M altaé/zar ata he was p robably one of the poets living at the c u lt u red co u rts of the e astern p art of the isl and Wh atever his n ame he m ade a hit with his tal e of the god who descended from he aven bent on fli rting with the d aughters of d won a wife the tenderly lov ing S it a by men an u sha the mighty bow of S iv a drawing Dhan H is success m ay be appraised by the circumst ance th at scenes t aken from his poem we re deemed suit able to embellish the tombs of sovereign rulers Can it be c alled ani mprovement after more th an a thous and ye ars of progressive western civilis ation th at we to hono u r the memory of o u r de ad m ake shift with infl ated epitaphs advertising virtues i n life often conspic u o u s by anabsence which the m audlin angels of o u r cemeteries rather th an shedding undese rved vic ario u s te ars perpetu al l y seem to bemoan on their own account ? The adventures of Vishn u in his Ram a guise are ,
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CR A P
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the apsaras re mained u nfinished while others like statues of gods on higher pl anes h ave only been ou tlined an evidently contrived for d sp ace s has led to the o rn ament present fl at s u rfaces conjectu re of a catast rophe which s u rprised the b u ilde rs an d m ade them s u spend thei r l abo u rs as in the c ase of the B imo temple of the Di eng pl ate au One of the s alient fe at u res of the decoration at Pramb an an indeed of all ancient J av anese a rt d B u ddhist is the rep resent ation of S iv ai te an impo rt ant facto r in h u m an destiny anim al life as an I f the B u ddh a was c alled the S aky a S inh a the Lion d his sylv an embodiment ado rns in of the S ak yas an m any reprod u ctions the Bo ro B u do o r his st ateliest temple at S iv ai te P ramban an we find the king of the dese rt extensively u tilised in the gene ral decora tion togethe r with the be asts of the field u nder the d fa ncifu l combin ations of m anan b o trees an d his lowly friends not d u mb b u t of different speech like n am s the bi rd people the é zn The R amay an a b as reliefs echo the kindness shown to those h u mble companions in I ndi an myth history an d present day asyl u ms f or the aged an d infirm among them Attending the monkey warrio rs with whose help the o m anresto red K ing S u riv simi an deity H an to a g the th rone of his fo refathe rs at K ish k in dhya (an all u sion it is tho u ght to the do u ghty deeds of the 2 abo rigines of the Decc an a n d b l o ooé s are ) ,
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P RA M BA N A N
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gambolling ro u nd the ho u se of the M ost A w fu l an d M y sterio u s once wo rshipped here by gre at n ations whose ve ry n ames are lost but whose art giving a pl ace to all creation in symbolic expression of the divine still te aches u s the lesson th at the anim als are also child ren of the gods endowed with life not to be extermin ated to se rve o u r ple as u re an d o u r v anity or to be abused for o u r p rofit b u t to enjoy the fu llness of the e arth an d the good gifts of heaven as we do o u rselves or might do if we we re wise M othe r N at u re S iv a s sak l z Doorga n u rses at her bosom all her h u sb and s offspring witho u t distinction an d at P ramb an an she s u per intends the g rowing world as the mistress of his ho u sehold in the highly finished fo rm the artist has given h e r : Lo ro J onggrang d au ghter of Ratu Boko of the j av anese legend Not in h e r o u tward ch aracte r of the demon stee r s u bduing V i rago does she att ract he r wo rshippe rs he re n o r in th at of the wom anof the golden skin riding the tiger fu ll of men ace b u t in th at of U m a the gentle goddess who sheds light on perplexing p roblems of cond u ct to whom one tu rns in distress I de al of high born loveliness Loro J ongg rang is especi ally venerated by those of her own sex who are in tro u ble or h ave a desi re to propo u nd in the fu mes of incense they burn : barren m atrons praying for iss u e from thei r bodies to their lords an d m aste rs like the wives of K ing Dash aratha ; virgins anxious to get m arried ; pse u do virgins who h ave trusted too m u ch in the promises of their lovers following the Izaaat ,
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d diligently established by herself at Pramb an an an obse rved (not only it sho u ld be noticed in th at neighbo u rhood b u t likewise where no one ever d her escapades heard of Loro J onggrang an ame of the pre insisting th in the n at d amon r ) cedent she set consequ ences sh all be w arded off 1 When pasanz e m arket falls on a F rid ay h e r vot aries are exception ally n u me rou s mostly n ative women ent reating delive rance from fem ale ills o r help in the attainment of feminine wishes Chi n ese h alf c aste an d occ asion ally E u rope an l adies m ay however be obse rved among them : it is s aid th at seve ral h appy mothe rs of the r u ling race at u sb ands r ogj S owe thei h ak arta an d u rak art a j an d child ren to N ot re D ame de Bon Seco u rs of P ramban th at b rides h aving obt ained thei r an ; heart s d esi re in u n ion with the beloved the b rideg roo m s i n thei r tu rn rep a i r to her sh rine afte r a honeymoon ended in sto rm clo u ds with an e arnest s u pplication fo r me ans of release This expl ains the sprinkling of m ales among the fai r devotees on Frid ays dejected looking persons who sme ar the st atu e of Doo rga with éon e a despite n o tices to desist su pplicating her to repe al former de c rees h aving different objects in vie w of co u rse with thei r s alvings of G anes a an d S iv a s n an az F avo u rs are requ ested pledges are given votive s ac rifices are pe rfo rmed the gods an d thei r att ri bu tes M b o q L oro J ongg rang in the fi rst pl ace are ,
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h ld n vy fiv d y n d n v y thi ty fi v d y n F id y
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P RA M BA N A N
91
d festooned with flowers in compli ance wre athed an with anold H indu c u st om so deeply rooted th at we m ay notice grave tu rbaned aaj zs yielding to it u nheedfu l of the Prophet s a n athem as ag ainst those who commit the unpardon able sin of idol atry stray ing mo re wide l y from the right path th an the b ru te c attle wicked doe rs comp anions of hell fi re whose everl asting co u ch sh all be on b u rning co als As the exh al ations of the incense rise to the d mix with the scent of the dying rays of the sun an é emba n g anfelon the flowe rs of s acrifice melatz k an an d k an i t l the soughing of the t rees in the g a an evening bree z e repeats the lessons t aught b y an a ncient inscription fo u n d ne ar the temples of d a s u mm ary of which H ind u Pramb an an an J av anese L i br a ael P r i n taken from a t ran cipe sla amb ahan tion by a Pan of S u man ap m ay be accept able : Wh at has been here set down was i n the beginning anancest ral t radition very u sefu l if observed but if dis regarded it becomes a curse This inscription was m ade in the year 39 6 in the third month on a Friday in the sixth e ra Let it info rm you of the most ex alted of the ro ad to enlightenment an d h appiness to att ain yo u r d p rosperity co u ntry s progress an Proof thereof d raiment an d univers al peace will be che ap food an th at those who hono u r the gods may lead tranqu il lives H onouring the gods is the perfection of cond u ct Whosoeve r str i ves after th at will be smiled upon by them for the practising of vi rtue '
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provides access to he aven which shines in splendo u r d all gods will u nite with the s u preme S iv a an But B athara I nd ra to assist the p ractiser of vi rt u e d his whosoeve r does w rong will go to perdition an his sh ape like the appe arance will be monstro u s sh ape of a dog ; s u ch a one acts u nwisely bec au se d obeys his p assion s he tu rns away from vi r tu e an which are his enemies I t seems good to know d praise the this in life in o rder to practise virtu e an godhead believing in Bh atara who h as powe r ove r d e arth the wo rld possessing heaven an The teache rs m u st also be respected witho u t exception bec au se of thei r vene rable ch arge an d yo u m u st lear nof them to hono u r B at hara above all gods the Omnipotent the R u l er an d M aint aine r of eve ry thing Praise him ino rde r th at y o u m ay g ain d bliss even while yo u live on e arth h appiness an H on o u r yo u r p arents an d the p arents of yo u r d their te achings which are inviol able as p are n ts an they befo re yo u conside red inviol able the te achings which c ame to them from thei r p arents an d ancesto rs as received from the god B at hara who ope n ed thei r he arts to p robity K now th at they we re allowed to ado rn themsel v es with fragrant flowe r b u ds whereve r their influence penetrated this will also be yo u r p rivilege after the pu rifi ca tion of yo u r minds Cond u ct yo u rselves honestly acco rding to divine di rection acq u i re discretion an d t ry to resemble the ill u strio u s kings of the p ast w ho compassed the felicity of thei r subjects Be no re arde rs of persons either among the good or g among ,
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mo rtals in a fleeti n g wo rld This consider B at h ara is the K ing of K ings who o rd ains the holy institu tions Fill the pl ace of a father among his child ren I f the re are an of yo u r s u bjects y who act wickedly comm and them to mend thei r ways if they pe rsist i nevil te ach them to distingu ish between wh at is go o d an d wh at is b ad in thei r so u ls to the adv ant age of the living Excellent men m u st be appointed to m an age the affairs of the people These three things are of highest impo rt ance th at proper inst ru ction b e given ; th at you r s u bjects become prospe rou s instead of poo r th ro u gh o ppre s sion th at every one of them know the bo u nd aries of his fields Pe rseve re in honou ring B at h ara ! Glori fy d keep yo u r him an d inhe rit joy ! D ress cleanly an bodies cle an Acknowledge the omnipotence of d p rotected by him no one B at h ara Gi ri N at a an h arm y o u May his s u pe riority be reflected in c an o u desi re a I f u to confo u nd the wicked doers o y y ch ange of station seek secl u sion to do pen ance in order th at B ath ara s b rilli ancy m ay become visible d so p rofit able in you Nothing is so be au tifu l an to yo u as the conqu est of yo u r p assions s u bdu ing d lofty aspi rations v anq u ish them to a p u re mind an ing the enemies of virtu e who reve al themselves : it will help to p rocl aim yo u r l u st ro u s righteo u sness efi Glorify B athara ! H e will descend inhis b e n cence to show yo u the way Reflect se rio u sly some day yo u m u st die ; ponde r ove r the mystery of life an d m ake the igno rant u nderst and fo r thei r own s alv ation B eh aving in this m anne r h appin ess
t he
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c annot esc ape yo u kings of good ru le all of whose praye rs will be listened to an d with whom no one be comp ared : this is the sign of the eminence c an of the sovereign who domin ates men as the tiger domin ates wh atever bre athes in the forest The gods will p rotect s u ch kings to the benefit of their d s u bjects t raders an ndise an d c arriers of merch a l abou rers in the fields N othi n g is denied to the obedient fo r the gods w ard o ff evil from their thrones ; evil is known in he aven before it to u ches the mort als on e arth Glo rify B athara ! The men d high bi rth who serve kings m u st be of rank an of middle ag e I n their fiftieth ye ar it behoves them to retire from the wo rld into p rayerfu l soli tu de to die as a child dies ; let the body s u ffer fo r the soul c rowning the end of life As you grow i kno wledge you r wishes will be fu lfilled an d your sou l will leave its p rison The token of higher knowledge is evident Where does the sou l go ? I t g ains in be atit u d e o r if no p rogress h as been m ade it seeks a refu ge in the bodies of anim als an d people of mean appetites G aining in be atitu de it re aches heaven the garden of rest but hell is the abode of sin Cleanse therefore yo u r tho u ghts ; eschew impu rity ! Do not favo u r the we althy nor despise the poor ; all are equ ally confided to your c are 0 ye who are kings an d represent the gods in your kingdoms listen to this admonition an d know yo u r responsibility for the u ltim ate lot of your s u bjects B athara the lord of life an d de ath will c all you to account Wom an h as been cre ated ,
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life an d life s best be fore the appro ach of the mower as aizar v cutting them down Thei r m ates the g an d excite them in thei r weird revelry with songs an the musici ans u rge them with the cl ang of t abors Sh aped fo r the ench anting arts of an d cymb als love skilled in the wiles of fem ale m agic they move in a whirl of p assion like fl ames of fire more d arrows of redoubtable to manth an the sword an his b itterest foe L u ring the u nw ary who tarry at Prambanan when the fates weaving the web of the world change the colou rs of day into night s bl ackest dyes when the lotu s blossoms h ang heavy d the ai r is burd e ned with the on their stems an d s acrifici al wre aths they intend odour of incense an his subversion by a mi rage of delight a h allucin a d p resent the gr atific ation of tion of the senses an c arn al desire as the tri u mph of re ason Woe to him if he does not resist i n the delirium of his infatuation ! The moment he tries to grasp their flitting forms they ev ade him as a mount ain stre am in spate as the sp ray of its water d ashi n g down the rocks as foam on the s u rging brine The apsam s alzam as hiss him the musicians how ] mock the g an all tu rning ag ain to s tone h aving instilled their subtle poison i nto his he art H e seeks in v ain the joy they held o u t to him begs in v ain for a draught of the soma the nect ar of the gods Then shootin g o u t from the gre at god s abode as a fl ash of light ning the red gl are t akes s u bst ance an d Siv a appe ars in his most terrible aspect K al a destroying time w aving the skull which springs from the lotus stem ’
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ives as a reward Yama the judge of the de ad will find no c ause fo r rep roach The go od will ente r the di amond g ate b u t grievous torme nt awaits the foolish who pampe r flesh an d are ensn ared daughters of lust arr
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di t q u e le s ch o se s de la terre a it e st d a s le s rev es H R
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d E ! CE P T d u ring a period of some fo u r centu ries an from about 9 40 till the palmy d ays of a h alf M oj op ahit when declining H ind u civilis ation fo r re asons as yet u nexpl ained sou ght a refu ge farthe r e ast Cent ral J av a an d especi ally th at p art of it known i n o u r time as the P rincipalities t e S u ra k arta an d J o gj ak art a has alw ays been the he art of the isl and The re lived an d live the tr u e J av anese the people of he aven s me rcy che rishing their old t raditions ; these an d the be au tifu l scene ry of thei r mo u ntains an d fe rtile v alleys are still theirs fi re — d freedom wh atever else m ay fail : glo ry powe r an d They lived an e in thei r wo rld of c ustom an d li v for m ality a life u nintelligible in its inner workings to the western brain impenetrable to the we ste rn eye There are forces hidden in the J av anese m ind the res u lt ant of a strangely moved p ast ,
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which we cannever u nderstand though we m ay admire their cre ative ene rgy reve aled in the now convention al designs gu iding the h and of the potter the wood c arver the goldsmith the armourer the ‘ d hereditary p ractise rs of dying arts an fiatzlé k er crafts ; in the remains of a m arvellous architect ure long since altogethe r dead N o ch apter in the whole history of eastern art s ays Fergu sson is so full of app arent anom alies o r u psets so complete l y our preconceived ideas of things as they ought to be as th at which tre ats of the architectural history of the isl and of J av a the one country to which they (the H indus ) o v e rfl o we d was J av a an d there they colonised to s u ch anextent as for nearly a thous and ye ars to obliterate the n ative arts an d d s u ppl ant it by their own civilis ation an wh at is still more sing u l ar is th at it was not from the nearest sho res of I ndi a th at these emigrants dep arted but from the weste rn co ast A lzn ga e rected in the K ad u in the ye ar 654 S ak a (A D 7 a Siv ai te symbol of gene r ation m arks the origin of an artistic activity whose most b r illi ant period the cl assic al one of central J av anese architecture as G P Rouffaer styles it rightly begins with the construction of s u ch buildings as the B uddhist ' ea az K al as an or K ali B ening an The inscription of K ing San d vestiges of j aya in Ve n g g i ch aracters an Vaishn av tendencies in the Suk u an d Cheto temples of a much l ater d ate point to the worship of Vishnu B ti k t in t f dy i n g w vng d by imm in g th m in g i th ivb th f th q i d l p t tin g th p t t b l ft n dy d by pplyin g mi t fb w n in d ,
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M O N U M E N TA L J AVA
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I f the b ackwash of gre at politic al events or disc u ssion when the I sl am s u perseded religio u s older c reeds m ay h ave aided K al a the Destroyer in demolishing a good m any buildings o f the cl assic al pe riod whose sites even are sought in v ain it is certain th at the pionee rs of western d civilis ation p ro u d of thei r s u perio rity willfu lly an w anto n ly u ndid in m any pl aces work th at h ad d volc anic been sp ared by time an d e arthq u akes an e ru ptions an d enemies born of the soil dev ast ating d s he arths an with fi re an d swo rd thei r b re t h re n hou ses Christi an z e alots reg arded the ancient monuments as assembly rooms of the Devil where the benighted he athen u sed to foregather in idol atry lodges of abomin ation the sooner raz ed the bette r pio u s feeling often transl ated into action on a gro u nds of u tility : the stones offered excellent e n of lzen d par tzcn b u ilding m ate ri al O ffi ci als an bro ade r v iews besides acknowledging the se rvice a zs in this respect went r ee a ableness of e an d h u nting fo r the adornment of their ho u ses an g ardens Qu ite a collection has been form ed in the gro u nds at J ogj ak arta the n u cleus of residency which was moved thither from the est ate T a j ong Tirta whose fo rme r occ u p ants like most of the l anded gentry m ade exceedi n gly free with the temples an d mon aste ries in th at neighbo u rhood ,
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M O RE
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1 03
As neithe r they nor the othe rs bothe red abo u t noting where they got this o r th at piece of sc u lptu re we are entirely at se a conce rning the me aning of several be au tifu l statu es This is the case e g with one of rem ark ably fine exec u tion a c rowned goddess sitting on a lotu s c u shion an d enci rcled b y a fl a ming au reole pressing her h ands to h e r bosom She h as been fort u n ate eno u gh to esc ape the fate of some deities who sh ared her sequ est ration an d were left to the c are of the convicts det ailed to keep the Resident s compo u nd i nt rim a d u ty perfo rmed by whitew ashing o r d au bing them with a grayish s u bstance excepting the h ai r of the he ad the eye brows the eyeb alls an d the fr aéaa which the gentlemen artists of the ch ain gang are in the h abit of p ainting bl ack enh ancing the gene ral e ffect by “ lost h ands an d d am aged face s r esto ring d feet an afte r methods nothing sho rt of b arb aro u s b u t the re fore the bette r in keeping with the t radition al atti tude of those in au tho rity Fo r this i n famo u s dis d des e cration which m akes an fi g u rat io nan y one to D u tch E ast I ndi an processes u n acc u stomed sh u dder with ho rro r neve r dist u rbed the aesthetic sense or eq u animity of the several occ u pants of the e ye ars saw residency who d u ring the l ast thi rty fi v it going on u nder thei r very eyes the eyes of the rep resentatives of a Government l avish in ci rc u l ars recommending the cou nt ry s antiqu ities to their c are N either are those eyes shocked by the F m i l i l g n d whi h ll ily w y in t m thin l blivi n it i in d d t ; b t if nthin g l l fal k p th t n n d t l liv fi ti nf g v n t l g id n n m n ,
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M O N U M E NTA L J AVA
1 04
CH
AP
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m u se u m adjoini n g the residency a j u mble of ' pl u nde r from o/zan ar an d ne ar ; nor by the azs f d legs fragment ary ch aotic m ass of to rsos arms an evidence of wholes ale spoli ation behind th at pitiful exhibition of arch aeology t u rned topsyt u rvy So m u ch for the st at u ary removed from the c an azs as f ar as it can be t raced Concerning the azs themselves it sho u ld be remembered th at ofi an the gre ate r p art has wholly dis appe ared H illocks ov e rs re ad w i t h b ru shwood sometimes aw aken hopes p th at by diggi n g fo u nd ations an d po rtions of w alls m ay be discove red : he aps of deb ris ten anted by li z ards an d sn akes point to st ru ct u res of which nothing th at is left indic ates the former u se ; sh atte red o rn amental stones spe ak of m agnificent bu ildings falle no r p u lled do wn— glimme rings of splendo u r th at was The temples still standing are red u ced d diminish almost visibly in att ractive to ru ins an 1 d si z e ness an Rou ffaer gave aninteresting ex ample o f thei r fate in the story of the spiriti n g a w ay of the ok a n a z D araw a ti : in 1 8 8 9 toler ably well prese rved thou gh two l arge stat u es of the B u ddh a had been dragged o ff to the dwelling of a E u rope an in the alarm Ged aren it was gone in 1 8 94 —v anished into ai r ! The temples const ru cted of clz Ab ang brick like the oaan h av e s u ffered ev en more of co u rse th an those of stone the memo ry of whose grande u r is ret ained in a few g h astly wrecks Reserving the B u ddhist rem ains fo r l ate r treatment ,
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M O N U M E N TA L J AVA
1 06
der v an
in 1 84 2 The g roups belong to the latest most decadent period of H ind u architectu re in J av a an d their fo u nd ation Suku being a few years older th an Cheto m u st h ave coincided with the introduction of the I sl am Bondowoso the son of the recluse D am ar Moyo who assisted the K ing of d took such sign al Pengging ag ainst Rat u Boko an revenge upon the l atter s d a u ghter Loro J ongg rang fo r rejecting him the unco u th sl ayer of her father is su pposed to h ave erected the bui l dings at S u ku Those at Cheto owe thei r o rigin to a prince of Mojopahit who qu arrelled with his brother the of th at empi re o r according to another ru ler legend to a cert ain K i abi Patiro who refused to d rep ai red to become a convert to the new faith an d was killed the L awu where he live d as a hermit an ary of the M oslim K ing by Prag iwo n miss e so an g returned in the temple of Dem ak L zn worship a g gro u ps of the Lawnto its c ru dest modes of expres sion an d Fergusson who mentions the d ates 1 4 35 an d 1 440 spe aks of a deg raded form of the Vishn u i te aa religion the g arn the bo ar the tortoise etc being of frequent occ u rrence in the orn amentation J u nghuhn described the st ai rc ases he found which d the st atues which h ardly connected the terr aces an c ame up to the artistic st andard of Pramb an an an d the Boro B u do o r one of them distinguishing itself by a coloss al he ad whose me as u rement from chin to crown was three feet h alf of the whole height Comparing his description with the actu al state of Vi hn nk an b th m n bi d t Vlis,
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OF
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C E N T RA L J AVA
107
things much m u st h ave been removed heaven knows Whither N otwithst anding the obvious t ru th s rem ark th at a proper illustr ation of of F e rg u sso n d Cheto an d I may be permitted to add S uku an of the rem ains on the summit of the mount ain whether origin ally t ree temples or consecrated to devotion al exercises in the Open a l zn star of West J av a promises to be of g reat importance to the h istory of architectu re in the isl and very little has been done in th at di rection o r even for the conserv a tion of the ruins whe re r ed o h u nters an d a luxu rio u s vegetation vie in oblite rating the t races of most interesting antiq u ities J u ngh u hn sounded a note of w arning apropos of the fal l ing in of the peculi arly constr u cted pyramid al temple M ay 1 8 38 b u t this an d the o the r mon u ments h ave been suffered since as before to crumble q u ietly away an d the e asily remov able sc u lpt u re to be c arried o ff G anes a in his m anifold reprod u ctions seconds on the Lawn his father S iv a head of the T rim o o rti continuing the lead obtained seven centu ries e arlier in the d a system atic study of the pl ain of Prambanan an reliefs now covered with moss an d lichens might shed a good deal of light on several unsettled questions One of those reliefs blending the hum an d the divine i n the m anner of the allusions to the an d the R am a B rata Yaaa on the D i eng pl ate au an az Loro J ongg r ang legend on the wal ls of the caan represents a complete armou ry with G anes a pro tector of arts an d c rafts between the armourer hi m self an d his assist ant who works the bellows ,
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1 08
CH
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I f with Rou ffae r we divide the long e ra du ring d then as which the H indus first as immigrants an r u le rs merged grad u ally i nthe aborigin al po p u la tion into a H indu J av anese period of Cent ral J av a an d a J avanese H ind u pe riod of E ast J av a the mon u ments of Suk u an d Cheto belong evidently to the epoch of J av anese H indu decline decaden t art flowing b ack to its cl assic al source tarnishing o rigi n H indu J av anese conceptions Le aving al B u ddhist architecture to be dealt with in the l ast azs of E ast ch apte rs an d before t u rning to the o/zan J av a a sho rt histo rical revie w m ay aid in the appreci ation of this decline an d subsequent p aralysis of the cre ative fac u lty K artikey a the god of w ar a yo u nger son of S iv a an d P arv ati h ad his st rong d divested h and in this an d how he invested an mighty princes who conqu e red or were defe ated an d fin ally p assed away c au sing the rise an d fall of glo rious kingdoms is w ritten in the baba as the J av anese chronicles by no me ans such old wives tales as Dominee Valent ij n t ried to m ake them o u t b u t cont aining in their ext rav agance a ke rnel of ste m reality not the less expl an atory of the condition of the fairy isl and J av a bec ause the mag n an zm es me n so n g es of a vivid im agin ation anim ate the d u ll facts Of the H indu empi re M ataram in Central J av a nothing tangib l e is left except the ruins refe rred to a few objects in metal an d stone accid e nt ally u n e arthed or dug up by tre as u re seekers an d some “ inscriptions title deeds etc the sc anty ge n u ine ,
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1 10
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infl u ence afte r K ah u rip an situ ated in wh at is now Sou the rn S u ra bay a ; then T u m apel situ ated in wh at is now P as u ru an bec ame ascend ant ; then D ah a once more an d l ast of the gre at H ind u empires Mojopahit abou t 1 30 0 to be overthrown by the sword afte r two cent u ries of preponderance of I sl am J ayab ay a K ing of D ah a from abo u t 1 h as been c alled the Ch arle 1 1 30 till abo u t 1 1 60 d letters m agne of J av a in whose reign le arning an were encou raged ; or the J av anese K ing A rth u r whose life among his heroes in pe ace an d war is reflected in th e idylls of the Ran j i cycle at w hose Cou rt the famou s poet Mpu Sed ah beg an his version of the M a ao/zar ala the B r ala Ya aa finished by u lo o h au thor M pu Pan of the Gatoté ao/zasr ay a ak o o n w rote the Wr ell a S an while T an sa a a so r t g y of Epzslola de A r te P oelzoa When T u m apel ex de d especi ally u nde r Ken A n tro ro k u blous pan g times arrived for D ah a which co u ld h ardly hold her own against the enc roachments of th at u n scru pu lo u s mon arch Ken A n g ro k o r A rok born in 1 1 8 2 at Singos ari h ad sei z ed the royal powe r afte r ass assin ating the old K ing in 1 2 2 2 or 1 2 2 3 The k ris he u sed had been o rdered expressly for th at deed from the famo u s armou re r M pu G andring who w as its first victim becau se he tarried in delive ring it the tempering of the steel h aving t aken more time th an s u ited the u s u rper s p atience Dying u nder the m u rdero u s stroke M pu G and ring u ttered a prophetic c u rse : This kris will kill K en By G P R U FFA E In di / G d F b y 93 ,
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1 1 1
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it will kill his child ren an d grandchild ren it will kill seven ki n gs The prophecy c ame tru e w ith wonderfu l ex actness Ken A n g g ro k h avi n m arried Dedes the widow of the old K ing he had despatched w as himself killed as the thi rd victim dri n of M pu G an g s k ris in the h and of a bravo commissioned by thei r son A n the H amlet u sa at i p of J av anese history A nd how blood followed blood d u ring the h u nd red ye ars O f Tu m ape l s hegemony ro k s how K en A n descend ants h arassed thei r g neighbou rs before the c u rse took effect u po neach of them appe aring like l u mino u s stars in the sky of d w ar an d then dis appe aring behind the politics an sh adowy clo u d O f u ntimel y de ath is it not written in the P arar atonor Book of the Kings of T u m apel an d M ojop ahit ? The fo u nd ation O f M oj op ahi t h as been attrib u ted to scions of several roy al families among them to Raden T and u ran a p rince of P aj aj aran in West J av a which it will be remembe red owed its origin to p r inces of T u m apel The most widely accepted re ading is howeve r th at a certain R aden Wij aya comm ande r O f the army of K ing K ert anegara g reat g randson of K en A n g ro k profiting from his m aste r s q u arrels with J ay a K atong r u le r of D ah a i nthose d ays c arved o u t a kingdom fo r himself th at end in V iew a large alw ays with recl a iming M ojo Lengko o r M ojo Le n u are a of w i ldi la d g ne ar T arik in Wiro so b o the p resent M ojokerto K i ng Ke rt anegara who by b randing the Chinese e nvoy M eng K i had sti rred u p t ro u ble with the
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Flowery Empire was u n able to p u nish this act of arrog ance an d his violent de ath in a b attle won by the legions of D ah a me ant the inglorious end of d the expedi Tum apel This h appened in 1 2 9 2 an force sent from Chin a to ch astise h im t io n ary for his u ngrac ious treatment of ambass adors to his Court consequ entl y fou nd their obj ec t acco m accomplish r rectly spe aking or more co un li s h d e p i de m n 1 2 93 B u t its le ader i n able when l anding in fi e d his m arti al ardo u r by ente ring the service of Raden Wij aya who with his assistance s u bj ugated D ah a which had tried to re assu me her former precedence Firmly established on the throne of the re alm he h ad fashioned o u t O f D ah a Tum ape l an d his own territo ry ne ar T arik he refu sed however to pay the pric e stip u l ated by his Chinese ally an d when the au xili ary t roops asked the fu lfi l ment of his promises arms in h and he proved to them that supe rio r st rength is the u ltim ate arbiter d sent them home much diminished in of right an d p ride n u mbers an The E mperor of Chin a wroth th at the be au tifu l princesses of Tum apel d aughters of the l ate K ing Ke rtanegara whom he had deigned to accept as concubines we re not forthcoming but stayed behind to adorn the h arem of the self made King of M ojopahit o rdered his unsuccessful gen e ralissi mo to be flogged by wa y of ex ample to other comm anding o fficers R aden Wij ay a who with the kingly title had ass u med the n ame of K e rtaraj asa enjoyed his roy al dignity on l y until 1 2 9 5an d his ashes we re entombed in two p l aces not ,
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d new dyn asties between the H ind u princes O fold an prep ared thei r common doom The beginni n gs of the I sl am in E ast J av a h ave already been spoken O f with G resik as a mission ary centre M au l an a M alik d the I brahim as the fi rst wall in th at region an conversion into M oslim v ass al st ates of the de pendencies of M ojop ahit whose p rinces combining u nde r the au spices of Dem ak against thei r liege lord se aled his fate R aden P at ah of Dem ak was a of w ar an The fi re of the new faith m an d destiny b u rning fie rcely within him he h u rled h is defi ance spe aking to the at the stronghold O f the he athen l ast K ing of M ojop ahit his father o r grandfather g to tradition as Am az i ah K ing of J ud a a cco rdi n spoke to J o ash the son of J ehoah az the son O fJ eh u K ing of I s rael : Come let u s see one another in the face b u t with a di ffe rent res u lt the ch allenger from Dem ak c ame o u t victo rio u s an d M oj op ahit ce ased to exist an iss u e frau ght with grave conseq u ences This occ u rred abo u t the year 1 50 0 an d Raden P at ah p u rs u ing the roy al family on thei r flight defeated the K ing or one of his sons ag ain a t M al ang where a l ast st and w as m ade B u t G aj ah M ada the P rime M iniste r of M oj op ahit fo u nded a new empire S u pit U rang which comprised much of the territory once belonging to S ingos ari The S aiv as also held o u t at P as u ru an which was invested by P angeran T rangg an a a s u ccesso r of R aden P atah b u t after his ass assin ation by one of his serv ants ,
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OF
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C E N T RA L J AVA
1 1
5
the t roops of Dem ak retu rned home P as u ru an an d S u rab ay a reverted l ater on to the Regent of M ad u ra a son inlaw of P ange ran T rangg an a Y e t H ind u i sm lingered on in the isl an d ; its politic al powe r w as only broken with the conqu est of B alam b an by the E ast I ndi a Company in 1 7 6 7 g an an d the pop u l ation of the Tengge r mo u nt ain region did not commence to accept the I sl am u ntil ve ry recently I n the confu sion which res u lted afte r the death of P ange ranTran ggan a from the dis ru ption of his dom ains into Che r ibon J ayak arta an d B ant am in d K edi ri in the e aste rnan the weste rn G resik an d d P aj ang in the cent ral p art of the Dem ak prope r an isl and the l atte r te rritory abso rbed J ip ang an d its P rince Ti gki r a scion of the roy al family of M ojop ahit w as procl aimed S o o ltanby the spi rit u al au tho rity of Gresik the fi rst time we find th a t title mentioned in the histo ry of J av a S o o ltanTi n gki r appointed one of his t ru sted se rv ants K i ab i Ageng Pam an ah an gove rno r of the t ract of l and which h ad prese rved the n ame of M ataram K iah i Ageng Pam an ahanimp roved the condition of the people an d his son S u t a Wij aya who h ad m arried a dau ghte r of the S o o ltanm aking himself independen t by rebelling by poisoning his fathe r inlaw after his h aving been c aptu red an d p ardoned fin ally by taking possession of the reg ali a in the s u bsequent w ar of s u ccession bec ame m aste r of the sit u ation an d l aid in N ew M at aram the fo u nd ation of another state which in the reign of his s u ccessor Ageng .
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6 1 3—1 64 6,
gained the ascendency over the res t of J av a with M adura s u bjugating even S u k ad an a i n West Borneo N ot however without st ren u ou s exertion fo r B alamb an ang ave a g ood de al of g trou ble in the E ast an d the conquest of Sumed an g in the West in 1 62 6 taxed the military strength of the rising empire to its u tmost When the E ast I ndi a Company beg an to m ake its influence felt Moslim solid arity proved a v alu able asset as for d Che ribon inst ance in the rel ations with B ant am an whose P angeran proposed the title of S u s u h u n an before M ecc a promoted him to the fo r Ageng ( 1 6 2 5 ) I n 1 62 8 an d 1 6 2 9 he vent u red S o o ltan ate to attack B atavi a the new settlement of the D u tch d wh at was even worse by b u t h ad to retire an provoking those upstart st rangers b e d am aged his trade : they closed the ch annels of expo rt to M al acc a an the d other foreign ports of rice princip al produce of the l and M at aram m u st now become our friend wrote the Governo r— Gene ral to his m asters the H onou rable S e venteen an d indeed M angku Rat I Ag e n g s son found himself obliged to sign a tre aty of friendship with the Comp any —a dange ro u s friendship ! D i fferences “ d B ant am with Cheribon between their friend an were sedulously fostered by the authori ties at B atavi a ; the Company took a h and in the putting down of disturbances cre ated in E ast J av a by T arun a J aya of M adu ra an d K raeng Gale so o n of g M ac ass ar ; the Comp any patronised an d p rotected s who moved their residence the reignin g So o ltan 1
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every where an d the tale of their rel ations to the lords of the l and is one of tortuous insinu ation d until they had firmly est ablished themselves an could give the rein to thei r so rdid commerci alism i n alw ays more e xorbitant cl aims P aku B uwono I l feeling his end app roach was p rev ailed u pon in to beque ath his realm to the Company but 1 7 49 one of the most infl u enti al members of the imperi al family decided th at this w as c arrying it a litt l e too far : M angku B u m i b rothe r of P aku B u wono I I s u pported by Mas S ai d son of the exiled M angku 2 Negara an d other fi an s p r inces of the blood ) g e r an ( stood up in arm s to defend their country s rights an d inflicted seve re losses on the D u tch troops in st u bborn guerrill a warfare This led to the parti d tion of M at aram between Pak u Buwono I I I an his uncle M angku B u mi both acknowledging the s u prem acy of the Comp any the l atter settling at J ogj akart a the old c apit al K arta under the tit l e s d n ame of S o o lt anM angk u B u wo n an while Mas o S ai d who did not ce ase hostilities before 1 7 57 gained also a qu asi independent position as P angeran Adipati M angk u N egara which in 1 7 9 6 bec ame hereditary With th ree r eigning princes for one the power of M at aram was definitely broken an d B atavi a assumed the direction of her affairs quite “ openly the th u ndering fi e ld m arsh al Dae n de ls Lit “ th nwh h th w ld i nhi l p l th pp t ( l ) fth w ld Li t th nwh h th mpi inhi l p l th pp t ( l ) fth mpi Li t th n wh h th n iv inh i l p i th pp t iv ( l ) fth n t rate d
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e mph asising her st ate of decline an d the B ritish I nte rregn u m b ri n ging no ch ange I n 1 8 2 5 the divided remn ant of M ataram v iz S u rak art a with the M angk u N e garan an d J ogj ak art a with the P ak u A laman w as deeply sti rred by P angeran Anta Wi ri a c alling u pon his comp atriots to ch ase the oppressors away Bo rn from a wom an of low descent a m ong the wives of M angku B u wo n o I l I S o o ltanof J ogj ak art a it seems th at nevertheless hopes of his s u ccession to the th rone h ad been held o u t to him when he assisted his father ag ainst the m achin ations of his grandfathe r S o o ltan S e po o h ( M a ngk u B u wono banished by R affles in 1 8 1 2 H oweve r this may be he resented the settlement of the S o o ltan ate on the de ath of M angk u B u wono I I I u pon J aro t aninfant so n an d othe r ci rc u mst ances adding to his dislike of Dutch control he raised the st and ard of revolt The J av anese responded with al ac rity to anappe al which bore good tidings of delive ry as the wind ridden by the M aro o ts who m ake the mo u nt ains to t remble an d te ar the forest into pieces be ars good tidings of coming rain to a parched e arth Anta Wiri a u nde r his mo re pop u l ar n ame of Dipo N egoro an d his lie u ten ants Ali B ass a P rawira Di rj a or d K i ab i M aj a gave the D u tch t roops to t an Se n plenty of bloody work in the five years d u ring which the J av a war l asted 1 8 2 5—1 8 30 I t w as the l ast er u ption on a l arge sc ale of the fi re imprisoned in t d t th dpn dn p n f J gj k t A f r th mi in t d m in b nfit f P n g nN t K m lly f th B i ti h d in g th f th bl f 8 n d 8 t .
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1 20
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the n ative s he art the l ast sustained effort at regain ing his independence crushed by the white m an s superiority in milit ary appli ances but occ asion al throbbings ru ffl the s in u rface as in B ant am g the Pre an cies Kediri etc ge r Rege n show th at the vo l c ano is by no means ane x tin “ u ishe d one Tho kingdoms are shrunk to pro u gh g vinces an d ch ains cl ank over scept red cities the love of liberty l aid by as a swo rd which eats into itself d the n ative does not own foreign dominion an d princes especi ally the S u s u h u n an of Su rak arta an the S o o ltan of J ogj ak arta rema in objects of worship ful hom age Their gene alogy remo u nts to the gods whose essence took s u bstan ce in the illustrious prophet Ad am who begat Abil an d K abil on the goddess K aw a ; the history of thei r house begins with the arriv al in the isl and in the J av anese ye ar 1 of Aj i Soko ; they are the pan atag ama an d say za zn(slzalz ad di rectors an d le aders of religion ; th ei r Cou rts set the fashion i n 1 high n ative society Solo being more g ay an d Jl extrav ag ant J o g ja more sedate an d solid as a writer at the end of the eighteenth century already rem arked The D u tch Government recognises the imperial or royal dignity of S u su h u n an an d S o o ltanby the superior position of its Residents in the c apital s of ’
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1 22
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mystic exe rcise silent s u bmissio nbeing practised in expect ation of the cons u mm ation Of a higher will an d this is the n ative s sec ret as he repe ats lan the lessons inc u lc ated in the Wn g R e/z the t re atise on ethics w ritten by one of the eminent of the p ast S u n an P ak u B u wono I V M ay ye imitate o u r an cesto rs who we re endowed with s u pe rn atu ral stren g th an d m ay ye q u alify fo r penitence heeding closely the pe rfection of life ; this is my p raye r fo r my child ren ; be it g ranted ! M e anwhile t axation inc re ases b u t who c anO bj ect to th at when in d ays of old the good people h ad to pay for the privilege of looki n g at the p u blic d ance rs whethe r they c ared to look at them o r n t rib u o t ; when comp u lso ry c o n tio n s to the exchequ e r we re levied u pon one eyed pe rsons fo r thei r being so m u ch bette r O ff th an the totally blind ; etc F an cy a M iniste r of Fi n a nce in H oll and defending a vex atio u s new assessment on the g ro u nd of arbit rary cesses in the M iddle Ages ! H indu art had lost its vit ality when the second empi re of M ataram arose inCent ral J av a an d the c u lt of the ideal w as effected by mode rnising c u rrents from the e aste rnpart of the isl and S an skrit as the vehicle of tho u ght in Ve n d N agari ch aracte rs g g i an m ade pl ace for K awi which rel ated i n its oldest d in its symbols to the I ndi an fo rms to P ali an alph abets evolved soon afterw ard into a specific J av anese type S iv ai te lite ratu re paved the w ay fo r the M an i a M ay a the B an aoan g the Aj i S ak a d the M e n the P an the aé o r H am z a cycles j i an ,
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1 23
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comment upon its infe rio rity holds also good for J av a : no trace exists even of a life of the B u ddh a of j ataé a-t ales except s u ch as h ave origin ated in the eastern kingdoms at a comp aratively l ate date Literary culture in the seventeenth an d e ighteenth centuries was a contin u ation of an d throve on the e ffor ts of the gre at au tho rs hospitably e n te rt ained at the Courts of Mojopahit an The d Kediri J av anese l angu age with the we alth of words it acq u i red an d the dive rsity of expression it 1 d still exercises in its developed exercised an 2 fou r di alects a vivifying influence u pon the So o n dan e se speech i nthe west an d the M ad u rese ,
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M O N U M E N TA L J AVA
1 24
in the e ast I ts sc ript like the people who spe ak an d w rite it an d cling to thei r aaaat the m anne rs o t wi th aa which n an d c u stoms of the j amanon st anding thei r I sl amitic veneer they p refe r to the law of the Prophet — its script rejects M oslim inte r ference an d refu ses to employ the A rabic ch arac d ters sticking to its equ ally be au tifu l ak sar as an anothe r Religions s one u cceeding a ran n a s p g generally withou t disco u rteo u s h aste M u ham madan ism penet rated Cent ral J av a b u t slowly from d the no rth first by the co n ve rsi o nof the gre at an mighty who p rofited by the ex ample of M oj opahit then by grafting the ide a of the one righteo u s god the godless B u ddhist o r p antheistic H ind u u pon c reed of the or an of slight import A er/t i l the m an g ance who u p to this day tho u gh fe rvent in his o u tward d u ties as a M oslim shows in eve ry act th at his individ u al an d n ation al tempe rament is rooted in re — I sl amic idiosync rasies The heroes p of the B r ata Y a aa an d Ram ay an a are j u st as de ar to him as the pre lslamic s ai n ts whose legends are gathe red in the sto ry of R aj a P zr an d the g onan R i tao A m bi a as the fo re ru nne rs comp anions an d helpe rs of the Apostle of God The s acred war zn g i nneve r w a nting in the a loan a loanthe open pl aces before the dwellings of the ru le rs of the l and an d thei r dep u ties wh at is it b u t the b o t ree the t ree of enlightenment ? O ne of venerable ag e in the impe ri al b u ri al ground of P as ar Gedeh pl anted acco rding to t radition by K i ab i Ageng Paman ahan or his son S u t a Wij aya ,
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M ON U M E N TA L J AVA
1 26
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ssoci ations people the O ld g ravey ards of J av a with d monst ro u s gi ants e aters of living an r a/ esasas de ad men an d s antons bent on prayer d women an h av e been amid the l ast abodes of the dep arted terrified especi ally at P as ar Gedeh by weird noises an d app aritions sign alling their appro ach com mending h asty ret re at to the wise I t is advis able to dist ru st d arkness there an d rathe r to choose the day fo r acts of devotion even if annoyed by wo rld lings who come to cons u lt the big white tortoise in the t ank ancient K iah i D u da widowe r of M b o q Lo ro K u ning p res aging the better l u ck the farthe r he p addles fo rth from his s u baq u eo u s h abitation At a little distance is the sela g zlan g a b l u ish stone with a more th an h alf effaced insc ription only the lette ring of the bo rder being legible T radition c alls it the clampa r (th rone) of S u ta W ij ay a sitting on which he killed K i ab i Ageng M angi r his riv al an d ow n e r of the mi rac u lo u s l ance K iahi B aru who h ad bee nl u red into his presence by one of his d au g hters to do hom age by me ans of the n j oon g the kissing of the knee near by are a stone mort ar d l arge stone cannon — b alls the l argest possessing an the fac u lty of g ranting u ntold we alth to those strong enough to c arry it th ree times without stopping ro u nd the sela g i lan g whose legend c ar ved by a a
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as
e
M O N U M E N TA L J AVA
1 28
cx xA p
.
dience ch amber of the S o o ltanat J ogj a is a maste rpiece of const ru ction in wood the c arved beams an d p ainted in b right d joists r ichly gilt an d colo u rs fo rmi n g a ceiling of wonde rfu l airiness an elegance ; in the oan shows sal w zton o the S o o ltan g himself to the people on d ays of g re at g al a ; in the l m n aoon ana h all in one of the m any ban s a k e a g g O pen squ ares of the p al ace gro u nds se ated on his clam ar o r throne he u sed to witness the exec u tion p 1 of his subjects sentenced to de ath who we re krissed ag ainst the opposite w all ; another of these open sq u ares was dedic ated to ple as u res which remind er a n of the m n mo re especi ally of the d kindred am u sements with a good ln az fn n eor es an deal of loc al colo u r we find it ch ronicled of S u n an M angk u Rat I J av a s N e ro th at once he beg u iled a tedio u s afte rnoon in his é r atonat K artas u ra by st ripping a h u ndred you ng women d letting a few tige rs loose among them The an zs : room of sweets dining h all (g eaon in the g m an ) é r atonat J ogj a to the so u th of the au dience ch amber cane asily hold th ree h u ndred g u ests with the host of se rv ants they req u ire at Solo the d co ach ho u ses impe ri al stables an sc arcely are K n t n til f m f pit l p n i hm n n tly till in in th g iln d f B li ni t d nd ivin g k i t th h t f th n d mnd m n n m ti m d i m t n f find lty th g ti n n t b in d t hi v p mitt d t p t nn i tim g n y b f th p in p idin g in p n by d p ty h d gi vnth ignl f th p d g a A t y i t ld f S h nnf S k t h v in g d d m gn ifi n t m ln d f m n f th fi t P i th t th f v d i n d ti l in w d vi d t n d m kin g p nW th i t nd liv y A kin g Wh t nw T p h th gg hi Highn hi k nwill l y f ? h g t th in d q l y i g Spl n d n livn t g th i nth h h ld t l p t n in t t f th iftl au
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M O N U M E N TA L J AVA
30
ca
n .
personific ation of s u bl u n ar tempt ations A nd the m anifold fu nctions assigned to w ater i n thei r ple as ances to the limpid ru nning w ate r of the cool mo u ntain rills are ch aracte ristic of anisl and whe re a b ath at le ast twice a d ay prefer ably in the open d a l u x u ry which the poo rest is both a necessity an does not d re am of denying himself Observe the crowds of men women an d child ren alw ays ch aste d rivers an d decent dispo r ting themselves in l akes an eve ry mo rning an d every evening ; note the n ames of P ik ataanKali Bening B any u Bi ru idyllic spots di Pengilon S idam o o k ti an d eq u al to the cl assic Man d a swim an d W an as ari to the lover of a plunge an d foli age with the bl u e he aven sc reened by flowers an smili ng on his joy P assing by Amb ar Wi n an goo n an d Amb ar Ro o k m a the rem ains of the so c alled water c astle at J ogj ak art a convey some notion of the m anner in which roy al pe rson ages sought rec re ation am u sing themselves in thei r p arks of delight fr ag rant d tranq u il like the restfu l Lo o m b i n an i whe re M ay a g ave bi rth to the B u ddh a ; toying with their women in an d ro u nd the c rystalline fl u id An ab u ndant spring within the bo u nd aries of the p al ace g ro u nds led to the conception of this ret re at o r rathe r these ret re ats for the re we re two connected by a system of can als which spe aks highly fo r n ative hyd raulics though t h e b u ildings erected to obey a c apricious will show in thei r p resent ru ino u s st ate how archi tect u re h ad degraded since the H indu period its flimsy productions being u n able to withst and the fi rst serio u s e arthqu ake Of P u lu Gedong to th e .
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M O N U M E N TA L J AVA
32
c
m
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d ple as u re collection of gardens fi sh ponds an pools H e prob ably visited P u l u Gedong before l proceeding to T am an S ari an d exp ati ates on the sp acio u sness of the dwelling room in P u l u K an anga where it seems th at the Co u rt co u ld find plenty of accommod ation B u t wh at m ade the g re a test impression on the expert in hydrau lics was the p ass ages an d anap artment fo r ar rangement of praye r an d medit ation u nder w ate r as if the S o o ltan deemed it anadv antage to worship s u rro u nded by the b abbling st re am light an d fresh air being p rovi ded thro u gh t u rrets rising above the s u rface ano o nsitu ated I n the pl ace c alled O o mb o o l Win g on a low level with th ree tanks fed from the g re at l ake of T am an S ari was a cool ret re at whe re the u sed to rest a while afte r his b ath refreshing S o o ltan himself with a cu p of te a All u ding to the S u m o o r G u m u li n g Reime r rem arks th at the architect m u st h ave chosen a ro u nd form for his st ru ct u re to m ake it the bette r resist the p ress u re of the w ater all rou nd The st range b u ilding which went by th at d consisted of two concent ric w alls with a n ame an flat roof t aken for a s u baq u eo u s ho u se of praye r by the visitor of 1 7 9 1 h as also been very di ffe rently expl ained some see in its rem ains a d ancing school aw akening visions of the S o o ltan s cor s a e w allet fi practising in the first sto rey to the d u lcet tones of the R EI M E d ipti nl v T m nL d k i nd b n d nf h i p b bl nndmitt n th m y b f n d i nth m n h t it pp t h v b nth p t f th pl n vd f th ti nf n bin th S lt n mb l lik m m m n w ll Wh n th nm p in g n dg m ln ll d p lyi n g flt g d vd f m g lm g m n a
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O F CE NT RA L
M O RE g a me lc m
J AVA
1
33
the n ative orches tra th at ascended from the d aided them in going thro u gh their b asement an p aces othe rs connect it with fu nctions neve r referred to in polite society an d which h ave nothing in common with p raying eithe r with the heart o r with the feet more correctly speaking : with the arms h ands an d hips for J av anese dancing is no loose skipping an d hopping abou t b u t a graceful an d expressive pl ay of the body an d mo re p artic u l arly of the u pper limbs in rhythmic u nd u l ating motion P assing from one l ake to the next the S o o ltan s me ans of convey ance w as the p m /zu N i ahi K u ning a gorgeo u sly deco rated barge given to him by the E ast I ndi a Comp any ; othe r boats plying between T am an S ari an d T am an Ledok were at the dispos al of the l adies of the outing with their roy al ho u sehold desi ro u s of an b abies ; two sm all ski ffs left thei r moorings eve ry aelz to night alte rn ately at a sign al given on a éen d assembled feed the fishes which knew the so u nd an in sho als The g u ard rooms ne ar the northe rn w ate rgate of which the rem aining one zle the one not altogether fallen into ru in shelters in the morning a motley crowd of selle rs of fru it vegetables sweetme ats etc witnesses to the d sh ad owing Comp any s dragoons p rotecting an d J ogj ak art a with their H ighnesses of S u rak art a an the p rinces of their blood alre ady h aving been entrusted with th at task in the d ays of M angku B uwono 1 Of the delic ately c arved woodwo rk h ardly a trace d birds among flowers rem ains b u t some foli age an ,
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M O N U M E N TA L J AVA
34
CH
AP
exec u ted i nst u cco give evidence of a good taste which knew how to m ake old motives s u bservient to new req u i rements Though a M u h amm ad an ple as ance designed by a M u h amm ad an architect for a M u h amm ad a n prince the g am aa over one of the d ent rances the B an fronts in as at is on g ables an p ag as coping T am an S ari an d T am an Ledok the n the bal u strades of the stairc ases show th at H indu conceptions contin u ed to leaven J av anese art The rel ations with Chin a an d the conseq u ent influx of Chin amen h ave also bo rne thei r fruit in Central J ava as in Cheribon an d the e astern kingdoms d tops ( now Reimer informs u s th at the galleries an gone ) of the several buildings we re constr u cted like “ pointed v au lts an in the m anner d were wrought of Chinese roofs P u lu Gedong was famous for the lofty Chinese tower erected ne ar the spring “ which fu rnished the w ater for the c astle its l akes ponds tanks an d c an als an d for the i rrigation of its g ro u nds The o rch ards renowned fo r thei r m angoes an d pine apples the veget able si rih an o we r d fl gardens had a gre at rep u tation i n the l and assidu o u s attention w as p aid to horticult u re on the principle well u nde rstood by orient al gardeners th at flower beds o rn amental groves an d bowe rs are like women th at however m u ch art an d p ains are besto wed on thei r m ake u p the art of arts is the conce alment thereof Writing this it occu rs to me how pro perly a western version of th at u nive rs ally approved m axim h as been put in the mouth of Géi r tn e r zn n en ,
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M O R E OF C E N T RA L J AVA D em z das N a tu re/l [ st
so u afi
35
n
’
F r au e
aer
mi l K u u st
1
v vmdt '
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.
Tho u gh M angk u B u wono I was a contempo rary of Goethe his knowledge of F au st is extremely doubtfu l b u t being anartist in his own way he took c are th at the n atu ral scene ry assisted by art sho u ld cont rib u te to a ple as ant gene ral imp ression i n the dist ribu tion of the dwellings fo r his retin u e : d of his rank too ! ) do n n ative pr inces (an o t move an inch inside o r o u tside thei r é r atou s witho u t n u mbe r less attend ants at their heels I n the “ wate r c astle we re apartments not only fo r the S o o ltan for the R atu his fi rst legitim ate spou se fo r his othe r d conc u bines fo r the little family they h ad wives an presented h im with b u t fo r the dignit aries of his Cou rt offici als of all deg rees sec ret aries se rv ants of every description v ariou s art ifi ce rs from the armo u rers down to the é e é ou é u mu é oos the m ake rs of talz ap z (fi re rope ) necess ary fo r lighting his H i g hness cigars The re we re reception dini n g living an d sleeping rooms fo r the S o o ltanhis R at u an d fem ale rel atives e ach ap art common rooms fo r the M k ? (wives of lowe r deg ree ) ; rooms fo r the ins tr u ction of thei r children ; rooms whe re his H ighness d au ghters spent a few ho u rs eve ry day in éatzé é i ug ; g u ard rooms fo r the paa/ ar i a the m ale g u ards ; g u ard rooms for the fem ale g u ards u nder comm and of t he N i ahi T u m an g a l ady of gg o o n d keeps the aalam the consequence who kept an .
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M O N U M E N TA L J AVA
36
CH
AP
.
i nte rio r of the é r atou u nder constant observ ation so th at no illicit amou rettes sh all occur in the women s qu arters an There were sto re roo m s d yet kitchens workshops prisons h alls set ap art for the d ance rs m ale an d fem ale ; the cre am of the fem ale d ance rs the srzmp zs an d girl éeaoy os were prob ably housed in or ne ar the princip al p avilion on P u lu K an anga of which the S o o ltanocc u pied the e astern Above all there an d the Rat u the western portion d his were the bath rooms dedic ated to K am a an d since the p arrot wife Rati of H ind u memory ; an is the v m any are the ak au a of th at frivolo u s god unspe ak able t ales of revived rites of his lux u rio u s worship The etiqu ette at Co u rt is fi tly illu strated by the two te a houses of Tam an S ari the e astern one fo r the G rand Po u rer out o fT e a of the Right w ho presided ove r the p rep aration of the delectable beve rage for the S o o ltanan d the western ditto for the G rand Pou rer o u t o f— T e a of the Left who pro vide d fo r the R atu A sc rupu lo u s p u nctilio is i n d customs from high grained inJ av anese h abits an d sm all occ asions the n ative s to low on gre at an mentality alw ays reverting to things which were b u t never more c anbe The hom age clone to s acred objects arms g ame /an s etc by giving them a h u m an n ame an d a title venerating them a s if e n K i bi i vy mm nn D J G N M N wh d ipti nf n wt t in g dmn y in g p ti l th t J gj k t t tl tin n t d t P k B w nI by th m f th b g m n ti nth n f t t p E t In di C mp n y Ni hi K n in g t h i knwl dg th n ly int n f f m l pp ll ti nb in g givnt y l p ph nli —p h p nth t m p in ipl th t whi h m k p k f hip f h ,
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M O N U M E N TA L J AVA
38
H
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dignity by going afoot he has his ret aine rs to look after his box an d st u ck behind he h as his m agnificent kris in a she ath of gold with a be au tifu lly c arved ivo ry h andle i nnine c ases o u t of ten a pu sak a che rished like the k ris Kolo M u ny ang of the P r ince of K u do o s or as othe rs allege of a S u s u h u n an of S u rak art a who sent the we apon which killed its m aste r s enemies withou t h u m an di rection to the assist ance of P ange ran B into ro then opp ressed by a king of Mojop ahit The ch ronology of this legend is evidently a little fau lty b u t 0 ! the wonde rs d O ! the s u pe rstitio u s of J av a s golden ag e an honou r in which thei r memo ry is held by these lov able people whose act u al existence is a d re am of d ays gone by And th at h appy dre am they ween is a p res age of the fu tu re p rophesying the re sto ra tion of thei r fathe rs herit age I f neve rtheless the ho u r d raws ne ar of u ncondition al s u rrende r the d s u rely arrogating D u tch Gove rnment ste adily an to itself the exte rn als with the s u bstance of powe r the Principalities they will silently s u bmit to the in ce arising u iv ar au a of thei r ancient faith the hind ran from to rpo r of mind appointed to them in the d seek san sar a the rot ary seq u ence of the world a n consol ation in the promise of thei r n e w faith th at the Lo rd will not de al w rongly w ith his se rv ants The life of n ations like the life of men starts d meets m any g as the mo u nt ain tor rent an ru nni n ,
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p p ) th gh th m d m f finni l g n i wh nm i L gi n n d wh p ti l p f m n i Nih l t p t th m nt y y t m d ln i l finn ing n l n fi m w k bl b i n f
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M O R E O F C EN T R AL J AVA
1
nobstacl e before it sw ells t bro d rive in d flows tr nq illy an pl ins an d mig ht ily to the
a
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C H A P T E R VI EAS T J AVA
nn
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’ i a cos d 1 o ssa d ei se o ti ca ta o i g ermi de la ita e de g i spiriti 1 ‘ Gl o sms CA R DU CC] , Ode B arbare ( Ca to dz m arz o)
v
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WHEN suddenly for re asons still unknown the cl assic period of art in Cent ral J av a closed abo u t 8 50 S aka (A D E ast J av a aw akened an d entered on which an e ra of artistic activity in every direction lasted u ntil the fall of M ojop ahit six cent u r ies an d a h alf l ater I n architectu re it offers nothing so grand d imposing as the ancient temples of the M iddle an E mpi re but much mo re diversity an d nume ro u s in s resembling afte r 90 0 S ak a in script io n (A D fo rm an d contents wh at we possess of old J av anese literat u re en able us in m any c ases to determine the dates an d also the ch aracter of the efi au a i s fou nd principal l y along the course of the B rantas in the residencie s P asu ruan K ediri an d S u rab aya M oving e astward i t was there th at H indu civilis a in g S f m th b n fth h m d in Th g m flif n pi it d f th ,
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M O N U M E N TA L J AVA
42
ca
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evol u tion of the o rn ament alone is exceedingly “ s u ggestive : the recalcitrant spi ral which in Cent ral J av a ascends decking the s u ppo rts topples d as it were in E ast J av a losing its ch aracte r an becoming a me aningless adornment of the c ase ments of e g the c/cau az P an ataran the é aZa heads rem ain b u t the maé ar as ch ange into a fl ame like embellishment whe re they are altogethe r dissolved as in the c/zau a i J ago o r T o o m pan it is s afe to g concl u de with Dr B randes to l ate eastern J av anese ,
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I t h as been conjectu red th at the m ig ration of H ind u i s m to E ast J av a w as the e ffect of B u ddhism gaining g ro u nd in the cent ral part of the isl and ; th at the p rono u nced Siv ai te tendencies of M oj o p ahit were a re action ag ainst B u ddhist innov a B u t it rem ains still to be proved th at tions Mojop ahit thou gh wo rshipping Siv a as the s u preme god of the T rim o o rti adhe red to his overlo rd ship in all its o rthodox pu rity The re are on the contrary indic ations of Vishn u i te le anings of B u ddhist he resy of a sync retism no less prono u nced d the M e n th an th at of P ramban an an I n the do o t time of Old Mataram s hegemony B u ddhism m u st h ave ingrati ated itself to some e x tent with he r d tho u gh not one of the temples e aste rn v ass als an in E ast J av a is B u ddhist after the fashion of the do o t an ck au a z s Bo ro B u do o r M e n d Sew u vestiges at s doct rine are u ndeni able in K edi r i of the B h ag av .
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d N o rthern P as u ru an Southe rn S u rab ay a an A fu sion of S iv ai sm an d B u ddhism h as contin u o u sly cont rolled the const ru ction of the l arger temples of the l ate r eastern J av anese period s ays Ro u ffae r St at u es fo u nd i n m any pl aces e g in the c/u m az T o o mpan d wh at is g are distinctly B u ddhist an most rem ark able tho u gh of l ate r workm anship th an those of Cent ral J av a an d of a di ffe rent style t ainted by dec adent methods they possess high merits as wo rks of art I ntheir S i v ai t ic s u rro u ndings they confi rm the statements of the Chinese travelle r H iu e nTsi ang who peramb u l ating I ndi a between d 64 5 before the persec u tion of the B u ddhists 6 2 9 an commenced rem arked u po nthe tole rance of the brahmins an d v i ce v er sa a vi r t u e the H ind u s c arr ied with them to J av a as al re ady obse rved in the ch apte r on P ramb an an The kings of M ojopahit follow e d example set in those regions : they we re t he S aiv as V aishn av as B u ddhists or followe rs of n o d prefe r one creed in p artic u l ar re ady to p rotect an e ach of them acco rding to ci rc u mst ances I n codes d sug al as pio u s of law an d poetry S iv ai te p riests an b rethren on the B u ddhist ro ad to perfection are mentioned in one breath as cond u cto rs of the religio u s exercises on festive occasions invoking the d ente rp r ises of blessings of he aven on h arvests an t u lar c alls the B u ddh a pe ace an d war ; the poet T an one with the T rim o o rt i The M u h amm ad ans we re not so ind u lgent when .
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CH HH
au thority as the Pan ran incre sed in e s of Gi ri a g spirit u al leade rs of thei r faith s u ccesso rs of M au l an a I b rahim its fi rst apostle in E ast J av a The hillock of Gi ri became a cent re of incitement to the holy war p artic u l arly so u nde r R aden R at u P ak u or S u n an Prab u S at mo to whose tomb is still anobject of M oslim pilg rim age With his approv al if not on his ins tig ation the M u h amm adan st ates on the no rth co ast combined u nde r R aden P at ah of Dem ak to compass the exte rmin ation of he athenism an d he lived to see the ove rthrow of M ojop ahit thou gh dying shortly afterwards I f the M oslemin ye arned to g ain P aradise swo rd in h and m arty rs fo r thei r P rophet s dispens ation those of the old creed remembe red the powe r of Me i r gods blowing t a the w ar shell of Vishn u who p roved to the San d H an o m an S u g riv a an his s u perio rity ove r W ali by shooting his arrow th rou gh seven palm tru nks who as u ar asi u é a atar in his fo u rth av the m anlion ripped open the belly of the s acrilegiou s demon H iran B u t R aden P atah m arching with ya K asipu his allies m arvellou sly helped in the w ay of the Lo rd ag ainst the idol ate rs of Mojop ahit the s wollen with p ride p roved to be the gi ant in the a known from thei r god s shape of a dw arf V am an atar fifth av conq u e ro r of the th ree w orlds And M ojop ahit so gre at that the cl aims to the honou r of h e r fo u nd ation fo rwarded by as m any princely ,
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46
whom he Warde n aar
taken with him as a drau ghtsman might h ave stayed at B atavi a though il l ustration of a he gives an in his H i story of j av one of the gateways an d s ays th at the m arks of fo rmer grandeur there are mo re m anifest th an at P aj aj aran which well conside red is s aying very little N ow a century l ater a century of contin u ed neglect the general imp ression is still less c alcul ated d to p rompt a vision of he roes s u bjecting thrones an dominions i n the short space left the m by thei r Ken A n a ncestor g ro k s m u rdero u s kris defying dri n the grave unmindful of M pu Gan g s cu rse Walking round in aneffor t to fit the scene ry to d ambition ext reme historic al dram as of love h ate an c are is necess ary to avoid stepping on sn akes coiled in d angerous repose or crawling among the brickbats which represent the fo u nd ations of princely m ansions digesting their l ast me al o r h u ngry after the li z ards d out of chinks an d th at move restlessly in a n c rannies lively beasties e n joying the sunshine u ntil snapped up far mo re inte resting really th an the piles of rubbish bearing meaningless n ames The n atives one meets will spin yarns aa lié i tu m anent d cr u mbling substr u ctu res the n u merous graves an b u t few h ave an intelligible t ale to tell H ere are po rtions of the city w all ; the re the remn ant of the gate B aj ang R atu ; h alf a mile farther the atom aloon the tamau or pleasance the t anks for b athing A ro ad in gre at need of rep air le ads through the T rowul an the interior ; exterior ro ads may be t aken d te ak pl antation s to the tomb th ro u gh rice fi e lds an h ad
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R atu Ch ampa distinguished by curtains which once m ay h ave bee n white Before a sm all bu ilding enclosed by a fence lies a stone supposed to cover the entrance to a subterranean apartment the hiding pl ace it is s aid of the l ast king of Mojopahit when his c apit al was t aken by the M oslim enemy M o re d to g raves surround th at c ache graves without an intim ate the pre eminent importance of the elect th u s hono u red graves wi t/c di rty curtains n arrow strips of soiled cloth sad o fferings to the de ad sove reigns of anempire of celesti al fame One feels almost inclined to refu se c redence to the grand past this ragged displ ay tries to commemorate an d from shee r disappointment to join the r anks of the sceptics who doubt of the c apital of M ojopahit ever h aving amo u nted to much an d m aint ain th at in an y case d w as of no conseq u ence it had come down an d G resik alre ady in 1 4 1 6 comp ared with T u b an an a century before its falling into the h ands of the M u h am m adans A t M ojop ahit it is the s ame old story of qu arrying fo r b u ilding m ateri al : seve ral sug ar mills in the d neighbourhood with the dwellings of m an agers an employees h ave been wholly or p artly constr u cted of M ojop ahit bricks I n 1 88 7 I saw them used for the ab u tments of bridges foremen of t he Dep artment of P u blic Works s u perintending A short time befo re twelve copper pl ates had been found with insc riptions in ancient ch aracters which dis appeared i n a mysterious way The recfi os of M ojop ahi t were mostly left al one a respectful tre atment they ,
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owed to thei r gene ral cl u msiness Some two o r three miles from the ru ins of the c apital a goodly n u mbe r st and o r lie together fai r s amples of stat u ary of the fi rst e aste rn a v an e se pe riod in its extrav ag ance J an d ex agge ration a t ravesty of the cl assic art of Cent ral J av a c ru dity of conception flou ndering i n a red u nd ancy of form also observ able at the cfi au ai s S u k u an d Cheto ; afte r the fall of M ojop ahit in the second pe riod the sc u lpto r reve rted to a close stu dy of n at u re as m anifested at the ok au ais Toom p ang an d P an at aran in the thi rd H ind u methods getting c rowded within eve r n arrower limits his fancy bet rayed him ag ain into l av ish det ail as exemplified in old B alinese im age ry At th e g radu al extinction of H ind u ideals of be au ty re alised in d dec aying stone an d b rick i nst at u es defaced an v anishi n g like dwindling ph antoms a g rowi n g sens a tion of emptiness emph asised by v agu e reminiscences of the artistic fu llness of the j amau éu aa cl aimi n g amends from s u cceeding c reeds received little from I sl am an d absol u tely nothing from Christi anity U nde r D u tch ru le ve ry few attempts at style in J av a an d the othe r isl ands of the M al ay Archipel ago h ave been m ade at all an d of these few only one h as res u lted in anachievement not altogether r idic u lo u s n amely the old town h all beg u n in 1 707 an d finished in 1 7 1 0 of old B at avi a whe re the Resident h as his office by the n atives very app ro “ house of talk priate ly c alled r u ma/z é i cfi ar a i e With one or two u tte rly tasteless exceptions the r est of the Gove rnment an d priv ate buildings .
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in our day for disturbances conveni e n tly ascribed to M oslim cussedness when the acknowledgment of the re al c ause discontent born from over t axation would be t antamo u nt to a confession of administrative impotence I t w as not H an o m anthe deliverer of Sita who trou bled the repose of Ravan a s garden d r aé sasi s who kept her in bonds b u t the r aé sasas an an d there are two sol u tions of the Dutch E ast I ndi an problem independent of the iss u e celebrated in the d both su ggested in the orn amen t of R amay an a an J ava s temples : the devou re r Time destroying all d the lion or tiger to with his sh arp teeth an preserve the l oc al colou r m aster of the fleeting moment with a garl and of flowers in his mouth im age of the clou ded present holding o u t the promise of a brighter fu tu re The two auguries d ark yet hopefu l belong to one old orde r of ideas pre figu rin g things to come in d u bio u s l ang u age after the wont d modern an of oracles ancient an d we canchoose the forec ast which likes u s best So did the princes d M ojop ahit not to mention of D ah a Tum apel an the lesser fry cre at u res of a bre ath as we deem them now doughty warriors an d far-seeing st ates men to their contempo rar ies who consulted their sooths ayers before treading the fields of fame an d blood whence they were c arried to their graves admiring n ations rearing the m auso l eums which n o w constitute the gre ate r p art of the historic monuments of E ast J av a The P ar ar aton mentions no fewer th an seventy th ree stru ctures of th at description Such as h ave been left are for v arious -
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the c an when w armed to life from ai S angr ah an de ath an d fe arfu l dec ay by the bl u e of a me as u reless sky again b u dding from the e arth lovely as the lotu s in the bliss bestowing h and of one of the five finely chiselled b u t he adless stat u es nea r by H oliness in E ast J av a as eve rywhe re in the isl and took n at u rally to bathing The ret re at B o o k t i in the dist rict Rembes set ap art fo r th at pastime acco rding to the legend by Sem u M an g aran d still first king of Ngarawan(the l ate r Bowe rno an l ater Remb ang ) h ad an d h as m any r iv als ne arly all in possessio nof antiq u ities to show thei r s ac red c haracte r an d the reg ard in which they w e re held Some like B o o k t i an d B anyu Bir u the dese rvedly “ popu l ar bl u e w ate r of P as u ru an are e n livened by colonies of monkeys descend ant sof the apes kept the re in H ind u times begg ars by profession whose S aran g an in M adio o n a ntics re ap a rich rew ard d J alato o n an da in S u rab ay a J a ti K u wo o n T rawu lan g d P an ataran in K ediri N gaglik an d B al ab an in an P asuru an sh ared in olden times the renown which now is p rincip ally divided bet ween B any u B i ru an d Wendit not to fo rget O o mb u landelightfu l spots typic al of a l and whe re life is a contin u o u s c aress Ngaglik h as a be au tifu l fem ale st atue evidently destined to do service as a fo u ntain fi g u re after the m anne r of the nymphs which grace J ohn the Fleming s Fontan a del N ett u no in Bologn a an d co u ntless other w aterworks of his an d the s u cceeding ’
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period Wendit h as S iv al t e rem a ins : the p rime god s n an ai stat u es of Doorg a G anes a etc most of the li n d y on i s th at u sed to keep them g as an comp any as reminders of thei r inmost n atu re h ave been c arrie d o ff B any u B ir u has a st atu e of an d Doorg a r aé sasas fragments of B an aspat is etc a ve ry rem ark able im age of G anes a with fem ale aspect an object of veneration especi ally on Frid ay evenings when flowers a n d coppe r even silve r coins are st rewn ro u nd to p ropiti ate his du al spi rit c andles are lighted an d sweetme ats offe red to the ancient da deities t aken collectively The c an cli s J alato o n an d P u t ri J aw a se rved a do u ble pu rpose : devotion d abl u tion facilities for a n invigoratin g b ath an pl aying a prominent p art The fo rme r in the dist rict M ojokerto residency S u rab ay a is the m au sole u m of K ing U d ay an a fathe r of K ing a an d one of the oldest mon u ments in E ast Erla n gg J av a ; the l atte r in the dist rict P and akan residency ament P as u ru an has m u ch in common as to orn d with the c/i an ai S u raw an a of the ye ar 1 36 5 an belongs o nthe cont rary to the yo u nger prod u cts a i P u t r i J aw a me ans of H ind u architect u re C an “ d R at u temple of the J av anese p rincesses an K eny a the Virgin Q u een of M ojop ahit ( 1 32 8 who spoiled her rep u tation fo r ch astity by losing d m aking him her he art to a groom in h e r stables an sh are he r throne as the D amar Wu laninforms u s waiting m ay h ave rep ai red thither with her l adies in to s acrifice an d dispo rt in the swimming t ank which is still replenished with w ate r from the neighbouring .
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rive r flowing th rou gh the cleve rly devised cond u its o r the women of her l u ckless l ast s u ccesso r K ing B ra Wij ay a m ay h ave t aken their ple asure there along with their d e votion al exercises before the d m aste r s Moslim to rrent sw am ped thei r lo rd an high estate h arem an d all C ave temples h ave been fou nd in S u rabay a u rang n ri S l k an d i Kedi J e d o o n in Bes u ki a a ( (J g) ) ( Lim as an The l atte r of g re atest d Sel a M an g le n g) inte rest an be divided d B u ddhist in ch aracte r can d G u w a T ritis J o o n into p airs : Sel a B aleh an joon g d J aj ar They are e asily re ached from T u lo o n an g at u ary is Ag o o n an d tho u gh the remov able st g gone except the he avy r aé sasas defaced fig u res on pedestals etc the scu lptu re of the inte rio r walls of the c aves rem ained in a t o le rab le istat e of preserv a tion Above o nthe ridge is a spot m u ch resorted to fo r meditation an d praye r where the V iew of the ch arming v alley of the B rantas bo u nded by the beetling cli ffs of the sou th co ast the t re acherou s d the m aje stic Wilis to K e lo o t to the no rthe ast an the northwest p rep ares the sou l fo r comm u nion with the Spi rit of the U niverse Rem ains of b rick st ru ct u res abo u nd in E ast J av a ; besides the ru ins d Mojop ahit we h ave fo r inst ance the of D ah a a n w alls of the G u w a T ritis u nde r the j u tting G u n oon g B u dek the c an ais Ngetos at the foot of the Wilis K ali Chilik ne ar P an at aran J ab o o n in P robolinggo g ,
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K ota Bed ah b u t not p rev ailing ag ainst the st rong defence of its comm ander Rong a P arm an a they c au ght the citi z ens pigeons which flew over their c amp an d attaching pieces of b u rning m atch rope to the bi rd s wings an d t ail fe athers they set fire to the d so g ained th atch of the ho u ses within the w alls an thei r end There u pon they dest royed the roy al d residence Gedondong to the e ast of M al ang an those of S u pit U rang took refu ge in the Tengger mo u ntains This is one of several t raditions ex pl aining the existence of S iv ai te rem ains sc atte red in th at neighbo u rhood : at Dinoyo K aranglo ro ad K On the to S in o ro at u P k n t an etc a e g T o o m pan ai K id al one of the best g st ands the oli an p rese rved i n J av a only the u pper p art of the roof h aving fallen down I t is the m au soleu m of An u sa at i the H amlet of J av anese histo ry refe rred p to in the precedi n g ch apte r who w as killed in 1 2 49 by his step b rothe r H is like ness has been so u ght in anim age of S iv a on the s u pposition th at some st atues of deities there erected which point to the u se of living models rep resent the fe atu res of aspat i over exalted pe rson ages An enormo u s B an the ent rance with sm alle r ones over the niches ' d lions fo rm the p rincip al decoration in g ar u aas an frames of highly finished o rn ament Dr B randes rem arks th at in cont rast to the decoration of the temples in Cent ral J av a the he avy o rn ament of the relief t able au x is he re dist rib u ted ove r the p arts which c arry the weight of the s u pe rst ru ctu re w hile the lighte r o rn ament finds employment on the ,
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bu sive attit u de tow ards Chin a w hich h ad s u ch di re res u lts H e b u ilt anedifice contin u es the ai t ic t d ivided into two p arts the lower one S i v t al en the u pper one B u ddhistic bec au se in his life he p rided himself on being a S aiv a as well as A richly orn amented é ala head in a B u ddhist e aste rn J av anese style testifies to the admirable techniq u e of the builders an Acco rding d deco rators to popu l ar belief a s u bterrane an p ass age le ads from Singos ari to Pol am an abo u t s ix miles aw ay a pl ace of s acrifice in H ind u d ays an d another to M ondoroko close by the site of a ru in with a gracefu l stat u e of a fem ale deity two sm aller ones which remind the d Do o rg a s cre ative fac u lties be holde r of S iv a s an d s adly d am aged h as reliefs I n 1 90 4 an insc ribed an stone w as recovered at the intim ation of a n ative from a pond ne ar Singos ari Confirming the data fu rnished by the J av anese chronicles the inscription st ates th at in 1 351 G aj ah M ad a the Prime M inister of M ojop ahit acting fo r King Wisn u wardh an i fo u nded a temple tomb s acred to the memo ry of the p riests S aiv as an d B u ddhists who in the year 1 2 9 2 h ad followed their K ing K ertanegara in de ath d of the old Prime M inister who h ad been killed an “ at his feet See here the fo u ndation of the most hono u rable P ri me M iniste r of J av a s se a girt dom ain d most inte resting of the M al ang Finest an complex is the c an ai J ago about twelve miles to the e ast of the c apital of the assistant residency in the aloonaloonof To o mpan d henc e mo re g an a
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more is the pity th at the temple p rope r has fallen into almost complete r u in : not only th at the roof is l acking b u t the toppling back w all h as d ragged the gre ater part of the no rth an d so u th w alls down with it The front or west wall h as held o u t to a ce rt ain extent with the gateway the chief entrance a lofty rectang u l ar mon u mental p ass age o rn amented on both sides an d locked with a key stone whose smooth middle sp ace w as destined in the opin ion of Dr B randes to receive b u t never did receive the date of completion H eaps of deb ris ro u nd abo u t lead to the conject u re th at the whole was enci rcled by a d th at the dwellings of the keepers wall of b rick an o r of fi ci ati n g p riests we re com posed of the s ame mate ri al S everal of the has reliefs fortu n ately esc aped d found an dest ru ction an interprete r in D r B randes to whom we also owe expl an ations of the ste reotyped d flo u rishes deco rative sc rolls an Tho u gh infe rio r in workm anship to the reliefs of Pan at aran those of T o o mpan spe aking reliefs as he c alled them g are vigoro u sly anim ated g aining in inte rest to the devotee as he ascends the te rraces thei r m aste rly tre atment c u lmin ating in wh at h as been p rese rved on the po rtion still standing of the temple w alls N o better illust ration of high an d low life of the d the ri ff raff portrayed in cl assic J av a nese nobility an literatu re co u ld be im agined ; the typic al pe rfect d sly b u ffoons are the re in crowds princes knights an an d co u rtiers w arriors an d pe as ants g alliv anting d love sick m aidens je alous husbands an be aux an d ,
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frisky wives wo rldwise s ages an d b abbling foo l s J av anese Don Q u ij otes riding out with thei r tru sty squires of the S ancho P an z a species g o — betweens neither better nor wo rse th an Celestin a e u t angling dusky M e lib e as E very honourable soul is set off by his or her v u l gar cou nterpart of the e arth e arthy : the pan ak a wan d the i n (p age ) an ya (nurse ) pl ay most impo rt ant rdle s almost equ ally important with those of the hero an d heroine an d their ch aracters are confo rm ably to the req u irements of J av anese lite ratu re cl u m sy an d co arse b u t droll ; their ac tions whether they accomplish or fail to reflect the perfo rm ances of accomplish their t asks d gentlemen whom they accomp any the bo rn l adies an d are reunited who qu arrel who l ose e ach other an an d m ake up alw ays in a comely stately way proud an d sensitive expressing their feelings in gracefu l gestu res corresponding w ith the choicest words When t re ating of Pan at aran the o rn ament a tion of the ancient mon u ments of E ast J av a in its rel ation to J av anese literatu re will be mo re fu lly discussed H e re however belongs a re ference to D r B randes ingenious expl an ation of the sl anting stripes or b ars left unc arved at irregu l ar inte rv als on ai Toom the n arrow tiers of b as reliefs at the chan p ang ; comp aring those sculptured b ands with the 1 tar le aves on which the t ales whose ill u stration lon they fu rnish were origin ally written he saw i n them the finishing strokes of the di fferent ch apters d in B flat llgf m l f th p lm f mily whimh t th gh hv dly th n tiv i l im f h p p p p v id fw itin g th hn d d th p p f ,
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CH
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AP
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The st atu ary of the c an ai T o o m pan g h as been removed for the gre ate r p art to the M u se u m at B at avi a an d possibly one o r two im ages with Professor Re i n ward t s invoice of 1 8 2 0 to th at of Leyden The deities are b rilli antly exec u ted of idealistic design to bo rrow R o u ffae r s wo rds exu be rant to the point of effemin acy Some of d we them show the conve n tion al H ind u type an the wonde rfu l e ffect they prod u ced c anim agine among the essenti ally J av anese scenes chiselled on the walls For thei r insc riptions N ag ari ch aracters have been u sed a circ u mst ance add u ced to p rove the p redomin ant B u ddhist signific ance of this temple The p rincip al st at u e seems to h ave been d othe rwise d am aged the dec apitated an eight a rmed coloss al A mo g h apasa Lord of the Wo rld “ rep rod u ced by R af fles incl u ding the he ad c arried to M al ang some ye ars ag o by a D u tchm an he in fo rms u s which symbolic of u nity with P adm a p ani displ ays Amitabh a the Dhyan i B u ddh a of the West the B u ddh a of E ndless Light in the m anne r of a fro n tal The goddess M am ak h i sc arcely less d also rep rod u ced by R affles in his be au tifu lly cu t an H i story of j av a w as c ar ried to E ngl and i ntota by himself E ffo rts to trace her whe re abo u ts h ave not met with s u ccess ; she rem ains more sec u rely hidden p robably i n one of the sto re rooms of the B ritish M u se u m th an the sto n e with inscription recording an endowment t ransported from J av a to ’
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M O N U M E N TA L JAVA
64
ca
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al sm inh abitants of Mongoli an extraction as S iv among the B alinese t heir cre ative tho u ght mo u ld ing old fu ndamental ide as in u n expected new fo rms I f B u ddhis m bro u ght n Chinese e w elements into d religiou s im agery as the art stim u l ating ide als an Co u nt de Soissons rem arks le ading for instance to s u blime pe rso n Tende rness ifi cat io n s of M e rcy d emig rating the debt is rep aid an an d Love Chi n ese decorato rs showe r the graces of their benign goddess K wanY inon thei r l abou rs in dist an t climes As to J av a with which C hin a ente rtained rel ations from the remotest H i n du period they an im ated an d resh aped in endless v ari ation the o r n ament they fo u nd the maé ar as the é ala he ads at l ast in thei r sai l s/ci li a t race ry being grad u ally s u ppl anted by the b at — motive The c an at aran is the most be au tifu l f or a i P an m any re asons also the most rem ark able temple in E ast J ava an d with the exception of the Boro I t was B u do o r the l argest in the whole isl and discove red by the Ame ric an explo re r Thom as H o rsfi e ld I ts fo u nd ations an d the inte rior of its sep u lch ral pit are const ru cted in b rick ; its terraces are in gene ral design not u nlike those of the c an ai T o o mpan d sc attered g ; among its stat u es stolen an far an d wide it m ay h ave cont ained im ages of d inspi ration B u ddhist p u rpo rt an in S iv ai t ic aspect however as it st ands now it is the only one of the mon u ments in Kedi ri s u ffi ciently p reserved ,
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bear the d ate 1 2 4 2 S ak a (A D 1 32 0 ) a minor temple d 1 37 5 fr om an d terrace give the d ates 1 369 an which it has been concl u ded th at they were added in the reign of R atu Kenya s son H ay am Wu ro o k d l arge The edifice rose from a sq u are base an stat u es of Siv a as K al a ado r n the feet of the stai r d second terrace c ases which le ad to the fi rst an Of the temple proper not a stone is left ; the w alls of pit an d terr aces are cove red with sculpt u re a sort a of g riffi n s on the highest scenes from the R amay an d fables an d illu strations of other pop u l ar poems an on the lower ones beau tifu l work b u t irreparably dam aged by o ffici al b u ngling As if the ap athy which suffered thi s noble monu ment to be despoiled d the providenti ally u ndemolished p arts to an crumble away h ad not done enough h arm an am ate u r invested with loc al au thority conceived a d prese rv ation on o ffici al lines pl an of restoration an that be at even the methods of the art connoisseu rs of the ch ain gang to whom the c are fo r the antiqu ities at J ogj ak ar ta is entrusted which wo u ld m ake reconstruction impossibl e for all time to come an d deface the orn ament in the thoroughest possible way I n obedience to a Government resol u tion of J u ne 2 2 1 90 0 Nt 1 8 the B atavi an Society of Arts an d S ciences h aving been consulted with a v iew to ' ai P an ataranfrom further decay t h e s ave the c an Controleur in ch arge of the administrative division within whose boundaries it is situ ated engaged n ative m asons who following their instru ctions d wh itew ashed to the t u ne of cemented pl astered an .
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( bo u t £ 8 2 ) with the m agnificent res u lt th at the u pper terrace h as bee nt ransfo rmed into a thickly pl astered reception bowe r for picnic p arties th at everything h as received a ne at coat of white w ash to rej oice the he arts of ho u sewives o u t fo r the day with their h u sb ands little family an d friends ; th at the architectu ral det ail h as been hidden u nder solid l aye rs of mo rtar an d cement Pl aste r white d cemen t everywhe re : the noses an w ash an d o t her ext remities of the sc anty stat u ary still in pl ace b u t d h and of m anh ave been tou ched inj u red by time an u p with it from top to bottom it h as been sme ared ove r wh ateve r co u ld be re ached m aking the venerable old temple hideo u sly ridic u lou s — an “ orgy of conse rv ation in the pernicio u s offi ci al accept ance of the wo rd ho ary ag e being rav aged “ by che ap destru ctive tidying u p This is ho w the theo ry of Gove rnment solicitu de fo r the ancient mon u ments o fJ av a wo rks o u t in p ractice I t m u st be conside red a miracle o r evidence of the n ative m aso n s possessing a highe r developed thei r employer th at the b as a rtistic sense th an reliefs h ave s u ffered less th an this ext rao rdin ary d p rese rv ation po rte n process of restoration an ded though m u ch detail has been destroyed th anks to their v and alism u nder o rders from B at avi a as u nde r stood by the Philisti ne of Blitar I n the fi rst pl ace we fi n d ag ain divided by med allions with represent a tions of anim al life a sc u lpt u ral deline ation of the a the artist s buoy ant fancy blending the R amay an celesti al with the h u m an shedding a divine light on a
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cts of m ost commo nd aily occ u rrence by m aking gods an d semi gods p art ake of m an s esta te in deeds s u blimely n atu ral The R amay an a wa s a g r e at favo u rite fo r the deco ration of temples as proved a u raw an S by the c/zan P an ataran T o o m pan cli s g an d Pr amb an an ; the M a aéli a r ata or rathe r its J av anese version the B r ata Ya aa c ame as a good second ; the A rj u n a a of the poet M pu v a Wi v K anw a has been pu t to u se fo r the embellishment d T o o mpan an of the c/can a S u raw an ais g ; the an d ai s T o o m pan K er sn ay an a for th at of the e an g d in fact we P an at aran We might do wo rse an d are doing wo rse with o u r insipid epitaphs an t asteless l apid ary pomposity in o u r cemete ries th an ador n the tombs of o u r gre at dep arted with im age ry taken from o u r poets tellers of good tales an d fab u lists the life they knew so well aiding u s to fathom de ath with its myste ries an d promises The p romise most cherished by the H ind u J av anese was th at pe rsonified in S iv a : de ath to m ake n ew d inc re ase inbe au ty among mo rt als life g row an feeding on h appiness by re ason of K al a s b reath destroying the misery of tottering old ag e raising m an to eq u ality with the gods Th at is wh at the people for w hom the m arvellou s ancient mon u ments of J av a we re b u ilt loved to re ad in the m aste rpieces of thei r literatu re c arved for thei r benefit on the m au soleu ms of their kings heeding the wise lessons fo r whoso chooses to reflect of their Can te r bu ry a
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e P ar adi se Lost an d P ar adi se Q u een thei r N ar r e n sc/z s d i : D i l U len pige l an
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The skies in the scene ry of the b as reliefs on the lowest terrace of the c a n ai P an at aran h ave some thing ve ry pec u li ar te rmed clo u d faces by Dr B randes who recognised in the fant astic fo rms of the floating v apo u r as reprod u ced in the h ard stone demons an d anim als to which he drew speci al attention a k ala he ad a fu rio u s eleph ant thre aten ing to ch arge etc The fig u res of all b as reliefs mostly pe rh aps those of the second tie r from below are not able for thei r dep art u re fr om the smooth t reatment gene rally acco rded to J av anese sc u lpt u re d best defi n of the period an ed pe rh aps inthe ph rase of one of C anov a s c ritics when he de rided th at “ a rtist s d fl at peeled radish style Ang u l ar an they remind one of the way an d the g p u ppets an obvio u s co rrespondence between the m anner in which the c an ai P a n a t ara n ill u strates some of the chief prod u ctions of J av anese lite rat u re an d the pe r fo rm an ce s of the J av anese n atio al the atre h as been cleve rly insisted u pon by Rou ffae r The w ay an g i e the d ram atic art of the isl and sprang p rob ably from religiou s O bse rv ances of pre H ind u o rigin Dr G A J H az e u is of O pinio nth at it fo rmed p art of the rit u al of the ancient faith an d even now the aaat req u ires a s acrifice the b u rn ing of incense etc befo re the pl ay commences The J av anese wo rd laé ona de riv ation from laé u which signifies “ “ ru n a n d both to to act applied to stage composition is the ex act etymologic al eq u iv alent of “ our dra m a ; the la éony ey er (lay e r or lug u ) n i vn h t j v n/ T nl s g t t d K n
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confines itself to tradition the laé onk ar an anto g s u bj ects taken from tradition but freely h andled the laé onsemfi alanto episodes from work s othe rwise u nsuit able bec ause of their length The way an g appe ars acco rding to me ans of inte rpretation as way aw poorer/a or k a li t 1 g edog k eli ti é or é ar u ci l d t au of which the way an g ale/é topen g w on g an g poo r wa holds the oldest title to direct descent from the ancest ral h abit of invocation of the spirits of the de ad The epithet poor wa has been de rived from the par v / as of the M alt ablza r ata which to gether with the R amay an a an d simil ar sources ab u n offered an d ant supply of dram atic m ateri al ; i t is from the way an g poor wa th at the J ava nese people de rive thei r n otions of past events as the inh abit ants d of another isl and did theirs from their poet an pl ay wright Sh akespe are s histories befo re eminent a ctor m an age r s set to improve u pon his wo rk o lu m u tilating him on his co u ntry s st age in the e v tion of a (fo rt u n ately mo re textu al ) inte rp ret atio n pointedly design ated as Shakespeari an post imp res ,
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A way an pe othing of r a rform ance knows n o o w gfi d for o u r h is the showy accessories devised by an d poorness of trions to hide poverty of mentality an acting futile a ttempts to m ake u p in settings prope r d ties costumes an d trappings tailoring millinery an disproportion ate finery wh at they l ack in essenti als The performer sits under his l amp behind a white generally red bordered piece of cloth st retched ove r m d th m t i l fw h i h th p pp t s i t m nl th ,
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M O N U M E N TA L J AVA
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CH
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wooden frame on which he p roj ects the fig u res d inte rsperses expl an ations H e spe aks fo r them an an d desc riptions directing the m u sici ans with his gavel of wood o r ho rn st riking disks of copper o r b rass to intim ate al aru ms exc u rsions etc Formerly all the spectators we re se ated befo re the sc reen as d Lombok b u t they still are in West J av a B ali an d g radu ally the men sep arating from the women an d E ast children moved behind so th at in Central an d thei r sh adows J av a they see both the p u ppets an u l ar th an The way an m less pop the u ch ea og g g ays of evolved f it in the d rom way an oo r wa g p Mojopahit as Dr L S erru rie r info rms u s ; w hile the l atte r d raws its repe rto ry p rincip ally from I ndi an epics the fo rmer with Raden P anj i P rince of J enggal a fo r le ading he ro is mo re excl u sively J av anese an d p refe rs th e low met allic m u sic of the ar o to th at of the g am elansalen e lan elo a m p g g with its high notes as of ringing gl ass I nthe d way an g é e li ti é o r é a r u ci l of l ate r invention an never of a religio u s ch aracte r the pu ppets them “ ans adow selves are shown : since way an me sh g the u se of th at wo rd is here for th at re ason less correct an d the s ame applies to the way an g g oleé in which the m arionettes lose their spare dimensions
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c alled w ay an d the p u ppets p rese n t a mo re g pa r w a an h u m an appearance B eside it th r ives especi ally sasak int rod u ced from in K arang As am the way an g Lombok an d mo re M u h a mm ad an in ch aracter whose p u ppets h ave longe r necks afte r the l ate r J av anese fashion Apart from s u ch infl u ences B alinese art ho weve r does not disown its H ind u J av anese o rigin The inh abit ants of the isl an d with the excepti on of the B ali ag a the abo rigines in the mou n tains diffe rent i n m any respects p ride themsel v es on the n am e of won g (men of) M ojop ahit an d adhe re to the B rahm a n religion tho u gh he re an d the re a few B u ddhists m ay be enco u nte red d S iv ai te r ites pl ay They are divided into castes a n impo rtan t p art in the religio u s ceremoni al of the an u ppe r cl asses The common people h ave adopted a so r t of p antheism which m a kes them s ac r ifice in the family ci rcle to benevolent an d m alevolent spi rits of l and an d w ate r domiciled in the se a r ive rs hills v alleys cemete ries etc The vill age temples are more specific ally resorted to fo r p ropiti ation of the j ero taé tu a s u pe r io r being ent ru sted with the g u id ance of comme rci al affai rs an d best app ro ached th ro u gh the g u ardi an of his sh rine who is held in g re ater respect th an the re al p riests E ve ry vill age h as also a ho u se of the de ad consec rated to Doorga a goddess in high rep u te with those desi ro u s to dispel illness to sec u re a favou rable iss u e of some ente rp rise to le arn the t rend of coming events ; the he avenly l ady enjoys in B ali a far wide r r en om mee d m aster S iv a who is hono u red in th anh e r lord an '
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si x comparatively little freq u ented temples As to the dec adent architect u re an d excessive o rn amenta 1 tion of the B alinese hou ses of wo rship Dr B randes conside rs both the one an d the othe r a di rect o u t come of the dec ay of the e aste rn J av anese style ai s Ked aton exemplified in the c an M ach an d T e g aw an P u ti S u rawan a an The le ading gi ide as of the oli an ai ben tar o r entrance g ate an d of the paau r a/esa o r middle gate add u ces Ro u ffaer are rel ated respectively to those of the g ate W ringin L aw ang at M ojopahit an d of wh at the present day J av anese c all g apu r a in s ac red edifices as old é r aton s d to those of the gate old b u ri al gro u nds etc ; an B aj ang R at u also at M oj op ahit These gates d B aj ang R atu states the W ri ngin L awang an s ame au tho rity fu rther cante ach u s moreove r a few things a nent the architect u re of the fi u r is (p al aces ) The temples an d p rincely dwellings of M at aram in Lo m bok we re completely destroyed d u ring the inglo rio u s war of 1 8 9 4 ; the co u ntry se at of N arm ada however a fine specimen of aneaste rn ple as ance h as esc aped demolition Fo r how long ? I n this respect i t seems relev ant to point to the ci rc u mstance th at the mon u ments of the sm aller S oond a isl ands m u ch mo re conveniently pl aced for the unsc ru pu lo u s sp oile r bec au se under less const ant obse rv ation of the general pu blic are exposed to even g reater d ange r th an those in J av a Government h ti l M i M A TI N E T NNE T ( ti nw it B lin d In m t fl l dy i t d ) th ng ( k l ng i h b id th m k t nm n whit tig it t d m B n ywn g Li t -
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M O N U M E N TA L J AVA
76
CH
AP v 1
.
s u pe rvision co u nting fo r wo rse th an nothing A B atavi a p ape r denounced q u ite recently a t ravelle r d who had been visiting the D u tch E ast I ndies an armed with lette rs of recommend ation from person d title in the N ethe rl a nds ages o f the highest rank an d antiq u ities on a h ad been collecting c u rios a an v ast sc ale only to adve rtise his collection fo r s ale It as soon as u np acked after his ret u rn to E u rope cont ained c arved o rn ame n t from temples s acrifici al vessels an d st at u ary from B ali besides woven goods implements u sed in oati k é i n g m u sical inst ru ments way a n The p rofit attached to this g p u ppets etc sort of globe trotting is eno rmou s since the coveted objects c anbe acq u ired fo r a me re song by t aki n g adv ant age of the infl u enti al assist ance sec u red thro u gh lette rs of recommend ation ov e r high so u n ding n ames A hint from those in au tho rity goes a ve ry long w ay with the docile n ative i nfact goes the whole way of app rop ri ation at a nomin al v al u e an d the big o ffici al who left his post in the exte rio r possessions bo u nd fo r home also qu ite recently with fifty boxes of antiq u e w are of a di ffe rent kind collected i n his residency m ade ce rt ainly as good a h au l as the distingu ished b rilli antly recommended to u rist .
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CH
AP
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tion on which the soci al edifice was fo u nded began to need revision N eithe r did the o r thodox at fi rst refu se admitt ance to the spirit of emend ation At the san of N al and a the Ved as we re ama a r g t au ght togethe r with the B u ddhist doct rine accord d the Lesse r ing to the tenets of the G re ater an Vehicle 12 c/co i x The B u ddh a h ad to be accepted an d w as accepted eq u ally by e aste rn tolera nce an d weste rn necessity ; while ranking as a divine teache r among his followe rs in the leg end ary development of his precepts he received honou r as aninc arn ation of Vishnu among the H ind u s s ays S ir Willi am W H u nte r an d as a S aint of the Christi an Ch u rch with a day assigned to him d Rom an c alend ars in both the G reek an T ru ly the H ind u s reg arded him as the ni nth an d hitherto l ast incarn ation of Vishn u the Lying Spi rit let loose to deceive m anu ntil the tenth an d fin al descent of the god on the white horse with a fl a ming sword like a comet in his h and fo r the dest ru ction of the d the renov ation of the wo rl d b u t he was wicked an d acknowledged in reckoned with an their mythology d the rem ark able confo rmity between P r ince an ar th asiddh a s line age advent u res an S ar v d achieve d those of the seventh av ments an of the atar H indu deity in the R amay a n a are cert ainly more th an accidental The law of me rcy to all pre ached by the blissfu l Bh agav at the B u ddh a the S aviou r aff ected the B rahm an c reed profoundly ; so pro An n vn t wh m t dwd n in pn liv in t di t th i l in Th I n d n E mpi i t P pl Hi t y n dP d t ,
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B U D D H I ST J AVA
n
fo u dly
I
79
in its deductions th at apprehensive p riests resolved to extirp ate B u ddhist heresy B u t since religio u s persecution alw ays defe ats its purpose Buddhis m throve with O ppression an d holds fu lly its own ag ainst the two other gre at religi ons of the p resent day al I sl am an d Ch risti anity To define the B uddhism which p arallel an d entwined with H indui sm preceded the M u h am m adan ism of J av a is no e asy m atter if it is possib l e at all For the s ake of convenience J av anese B u ddhism may be cl assified as ma/i ay an istic con fo r m able to the northe rn canon or doctrine of the Greater Vehicle vers u s i n ay an isti c i e con form able to the southern c anon or the doctrine of the Lesser Vehicle B u t the geographic al division p roposed by B urn o u f h ardly meets the c ase of o u r mo re adv anced knowledge which points rather to ch ronologic al distinctions J av anese Buddhism of the yo u nger growth was strongl y imp regn ated 1 with modified B rahm anic conceits in fact a comp romise between the hopeful expect ation of the M e tte ya B uddh a the M essi ah promised by B h ag av at an d resign ation to the decrees of the a ad Gur u whom the S aiv as of H indu J av a h ad J g chosen for their i sli ta aev ata the fittest form in which to adore the Ru le r of the U niverse P aram ,
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i l by D L A WADD ELL in i w (J n y i tin g p nth t ly R v in d A i ti Q 7 7m I mp i l n d p ki n g fth p f n d th i ti d vl pm n t f B ddhi m n t th i ti n —i th di ti n f th M h y n whi h h d t k npla —b t npi f m fth t f ith p in i g d b in g l t d t th f t fB h m n f In t p f li t B ddhi t lpt di d n in g in th hi
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M O N U M E N TA L J AVA
80
c
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S iva lost u nder B u ddhist influences his d the two creeds terrorising aspect as K al a an giving an g lived in pe rfect concord The d t aki n statues of the Dh yan i B u ddh as p artook of S iva s as the attributes ; those of their sons the B o dh isat v Buddh as in evolu tion an d of their saé tzs showed the ch aracteristics of othe r H indu gods an d godd esses alo k i S iv a conve rsely ass u med the fe atures of Av i the B u ddhist lord of the te sv ara or Padm apan world th at is now I h ave already spoken of the as represented at the S iv ai te enthroned B o dh isatv d the more or less S iv ai te temples of Pramban an an az M e n exterior of the B u ddhist c/mn do o t Also of this rem ark able sync retism bo rn from i nbred tolerance l e ading to new t rans actions with the I sl am ex acting as it m ay be everywhere else ; of the deference still shown to deities of the H indu p antheon in the sh ape of 7 27 m ; of the adj ustment of M uh amm ad an instit u tions to u s ages of H indu origin ; etc And B u ddhism do u btless prepared the mystic all y inclined mind of the J av anese M oslim for the acceptance of the mild S u fism of the school of G az ali which gu ides him in sub mission o f will to ma mpa t fu ll knowledge an d lmk aé at most hidden tr u th while he l acks the conviction to quote P rofesso r L W C v den an B erg th at his neglect of the prescribed d aily prayers will m ake him lose his status as a true believer Central J av a is richer yet in the qu ality th an in the quantity of its B u ddhist monuments whose Es
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B U D D H I S T J AVA
81
1
d deco rators like the tru e artists they b u ilde rs an were told wh at they kne w an d believed nothing b u t th at an d therefo re told it so well To examine thei r wo rk beautifu l even in dec ay beginning with the sm alle r st ru ctu res we wend o u r way again to the pl ain of P ramban an Travelling from J ogj ak arta to S u rak arta by rail the fi rst stopping pl ace re ached in abo u t twenty min u tes is K al as an the c/zcm az of th at n ame othe rwise c alled K ali Bening being visible from the train Once it m u st h ave been one of the finest an d most el a bo rately wro u ght in the isl and ; now only the so u th front ne arly tu mbling down witnesses to its fo rme r splendo u r I t was b u ilt in 7 0 0 S ak a (A D a d ate p reserved in a N agari inscription wh ich settles th at point an d n ames a S h ailan d ra p rince as its fo u nde r in hono u r of his g u r u (te ache r) doing hom age to T ara who seeing the dest ru ction of men in the se a of life which is full of inc alc u l able mise ry s aves them by th ree means it spe aks of a g rant of l and to din g thi n w itin g it I w with R kint On t n I th t i n th N h m d n! H i b vti nb p titi n Sh ph d T w ntwith t n din g th p n t f hi n f p h p hin g him n d ttin g my lf pill y pl gi i t I imp v th pp t n ity by m kin g mn in th y th l v f n d (l m m bl I h p ) l f wh t thi b k w t m n k p l ly knwl dg d inv y i nt n b I n t nt thi n with t th h lp f nmb d n d d t d n t n d m m y th gh mp n f wh t h b nt d f m th i t di g i nth nt f ilin in th m tt f h pt n d v t t ti m pp in ly ninC n t l J v f whi h w p Th lm K l ni th n t d t th py pl th kt f th fi v Dhy n i B ddh th t o Th t m J vn p l tiv phil phy V j dh tvi v i p i in g wi th V j h n in M m k i wi h R tn mb h v P n d with L t h n with Ak h b hy ll n wi th A m gh iddh h n i nb in g n d T A mi t bh p i i V j p n p nibl f th B dhi tv S m n t bh d R tn p n i i n d th min g Vi hvp n P dm p n ,
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M O N U M E N TA L J AVA
82
c
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the monks of a neighbou ring mon astery cont ains i admo n several p articul ars of p ractical v al u e with an tion to keep a bridge o r dam i n repair etc The bui l ding in the fo rm of a G reek cross had four d four st airc ases ap artments re ached by a te rrace an the stones of which h ave been c arried away long The four g ates j u dgi n g by the little left on a o g one of them were profu sely decorated with the The k a/a maé am motive domin ating the orn ament i B u ddh as in 4 4 niches roof bore im ages of D hyan an d was crowned with 1 6 dag o b s so c alled the principal one rising p robably to a gre at height Time an d rapine h ave red u ced this m agnificent realis ation of a glo rio u s conception this m asterpiece of measu red l u x u ry as Ro u ffae r styles it j u stly to The st atu ary which a mel ancholy he ap of debris adorned the exte rio r is gone s ave three im ages in their niches ex amples of the gorgeous b u t never too florid o rn amentation ; the inte rior pict u res desolation ru in within ru in ! A disfigured eleph ant d riven by a horned monste r its m ahout protr u des from the w all above the th rone it protects but the cushioned se at is e mpty The statu e taken from it was presum ably a representation of the b e atifi c T ara glorified in the insc ription the noble an d venerable one whose smile m ade the su nto shin e d whose frown m ade d arkness to envelop the an terrest ri al sphere I t has been s u rmised th at the mysterious fem ale deity in the residency grounds at J ogj ak arta origin ally filled the throne of K al as an but the v anished T ara left her cushion behind an d ,
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M O N U M E N TA L J AVA
84
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p
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in the open b u t the wet monsoon is not a ple as ant se ason i n the woods witho u t adeq u ate p rotection ag ainst storm an d av er le t i e! i t y a des d rain an ’ aeromm oae meu ts a motto acted u pon long before le S ie u r Poqu elin fo rm u l ated it The t aau a i S ari is s u pposed to h ave been the m ain stru ctu re of the residenti al q u arte r destined f o r the accommod ation of the cle rgy con nected with the e/t au ai K al as an the abode of the monks who knew the g re ater vehicle of discipline as the insc r iption h as it the mon aste ry b u ilt by comm and of the Sh ailend ra king d recommended for thei r venerable congreg ati o n an to his s u ccesso rs in order th at all who followed thei r d e ffect of te achings might u nde rstan d the c au se an the positive condition of things an d att ain p rospe r ity The rect ang u l ar b u ilding h ad a lower an d an u ppe r sto rey both divided into th ree rooms lighted by windows ; the absent roof h ad niches fo r statu ary c apped with dimin u tive domes in the m anne r of d ag o b s I n the decoration extensive u se h as been m ade of the eleph ant an d the m aé ar a the fabulo u s fish with aneleph ant s he ad im ages of s aints with d witho u t au reoles an of celesti al beings mo re s u ggestive of the H ind u p antheon th an of B u ddhist atheism of the bird people an d dive rs anim als enliven the rich flowe ry o rn ament of the well ,
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nh q t ti nm y b p m itt d f m D L A WADD ELL S Ev l ti nq n d A t ( Tb f ti B dd/ i t C lt i t G l I m g n d A i ti i w J n y I mp i l t ly R v An d n twi th Q din g th t th M h y n w p im ily n ihili ti m y ti i m with t n n m t th f n p lyth i m n ly i nth b kg n d th l tt t n d n t ib t d m o h th n n ythin g l t th m t i li in g n d p p l i ty
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M O N U M E N TA L J AVA
86
ca
n .
the west so u thwest Close togethe r b u t origin ally pe rhaps divided by a second w all they are situ ated d so u th from e ach othe r with their du e north an ent rances to the west ; the roofs h ave s u cc u mbed of the two sto reys only the lower ones containing s u fficient sp ace fo r th ree rooms are tole rably pre se rved Of a composite n at u re the t /i au a i Pl ahos an w as p res u m a bly rathe r a saug /z ar am a th an a ai fi ar a an d the do o rkeepe r at the g ate when all those sc atte red stones an d the sm ashed stolen or othe r pl ace m ay h ave w ise re m oved st atu es we re still in welcomed the w ayfare r seeking shelte r on a tempestu ou s night with s u ch di ffi c u lt q u estions as b arred access to the hospitality of Silab hadra the H iu e nTsi ang s u pe rio r of N al and a an d his flock the Chi n ese pilg rim who co u ld answer them all y mo re h as left u s a desc ription of an d a good m an i /t ar as of the saug aar ama the six consolid ated v d p avilions N al and a with thei r towe rs d omes an embellished by the piety of the kings of the five I ndies ; thei r g ardens spl ashing fo u nt ains an d sh ady g roves whe re he spent seve ral ye ars le arning d the wisdom of the holy books neve r S ansk r it an thinking the d ays too long ; their life of e ase scarcely cond u cive to the au ste re observ ance of p ristine discipli n e by the ten tho u s and breth ren u nde r vows an d novices who c rowded thither to seek p u r ific ation an d delive ra nce from sin in stu dy an d meditation — a desc r iption which fo r w ant of a n bette r our fancy t akes le ave to apply to y Pl ahos an Tho u gh sep arated by months of t ravel -
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da whe re S aky amuni entered the from B o dh iman state of the perfect B u ddh a an d the proximity of which gave Nal and a its holy ch aracter the z e al of its schol ars an d s aints no less tolerant th an H i u e nT sian g s tempo rary co students who sifted with l aud able imparti ality the truth from the Ved as from the doctrines of the two vehicles an d from the heresies of the eighteen schis matics undo u btedly stimul ated religio u s life i n the best sense of the word religion disposing the mind to kindliness an d goodwill as it sho u ld st rengthening soci al ties d art fostering sc ience an The walls of the elzau ai Plahos an in so far as p reserved are beau tifu lly deco rated with sculptu re i n has relief The delic ate t racery of the basement is divided b y slende r pil asters an d the frie z e beneath the symmetric co rnice is richly festooned p arrots nestling in the foli age among the flowers B o dh isatv as st anding between formed the princip al o r n ament of panels bo rde red by garl ands with pendent prayer bells ; the rem aining ones grasp as lotu s stems springing u p to their left ; g au aaa rv celesti al singers flo at ove r the g aru a a he ads of the ) ( po rtals The reliefs represent scenes famili ar to the observer of n ative life : he re a couple of men seated d s aluting a person under a b o tree or war zug iu an of rank raising their folded h ands to perform the with his attendants one of sem baa ; there a mas whom holds the fi ay ooug (s u nsh ade ) o v er his head ,
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while anothe r c arries a feu te/i le af Fo u r stone figu res gu ard the app ro aches to the m lt ar as armed with c u dgel an d swo rd in one h a nd they hold the sn ake which afte r the m anne r of their kind should d across the b re ast be wo rn ove r one sho u lder an repl acing the ufi awita The statu ary wh ich ado rned the in n e r rooms was of l arge dimensions fi nely chiselled an d g arnished with p rofuse det ail con cl u ding from wh at we know of it P art h as been “ removed to the m u se u m at J ogj a p art has been b roken to pieces by t re as u re h u nte rs who du g holes an d s u nk sh afts dist u rbi n g the fo u nd ations of the a i Pl ahos an in thei r igno ran ce of the di ffe rence t au n d H ind u m au sole a between B u ddhist mon aste ries an b u ilt rou nd fu n eral pits the sorely dam aged im ages of holiness which we re s u ffe red to keep thei r stations by frankly dest ru ctive an d even mo re pe rnicio u s o ffici al o r semi o ffi c ial so i — disau t “ pre d conserv ation se rv ation an are tru ly pitifu l to behold I t seems indeed as if the mon u ments speci ally recommended to offici al c are are singled out f o r the most irrep arable inj u ry O n a par with the wild fe ast of pl aste r cement an d whitew ash at P an ataran was the wonde rfu l pl anning of a re sto ra ’ tion of the c/z au ai Pl ahos an after fau lty drawings d the sim u lt aneo u s dis appe ara nce of the st ai rc ase an an d a portion of the s u bst ru ctu re of the no rthern 1
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d on the h ave no bu siness at the t fi au ai S ew u an u nfreq u ented b y p ath thither we p roceed alone s a ve for a few child ren with no mo re to cove r thei r n akedness th an the loveliest innocence —a garment qu ite di fferent from t h e weste rn t ac/t e m i se r e of m awkish pru dery c u rio u s to find o u t wh at the st range rs are abo u t U nde r their esco rt we re ach — u s c alled from the e/zau ai Lo o mb o o n aa i shed th ) g (t the si z e an d fo r m of the r u ins which compose it They are sixtee nin n u mbe r arranged in a sq u are the p rincipal st ru ct u re i ts once octagon al ro u nd roof sh aped like a dag o b attesting to its B u ddhist ch aracter thou gh it is not u nmixed with S iv ai te elements as the fu neral pits plainly indic ate They were al re ady empty when ex amined some ye ars ag o d the fine st at u es t radition spe aks of c an nowhere an be fo u nd The little o rn ament left inpl ace an d one single fragment of a b as relief give a high ide a of the decoration when the be au ty of these temples h ad not yet faded aw ay ex actly as in the c ase of the ek au ai B u b rah another sh rine on the v i a sacr a which connects the Loro J ongg rang an d S ew u g ro u ps To qu ote M ajor v anE rp ag ain : The st ate of affai rs here is very sad ; of the e/zau ai s d Gebl ak Ng aglik W atu G u dik an which the memo ry of the oldest inh abitants p u ts somewh at farthe r north even the site c an not now be loc ated By the time we re ach the tho u s and temples S u ry a the su n god has driven his fiery c arri age to the z enith of his d aily co u rse thro u gh the air an d B t t n l t d by in ’
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R A K S A SA OF TH E CH A ND I tru m ) (Ce n
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92
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AP
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P ramban an an d Soro G e do o g bec ame the frame work o f di ffe rent t ales ad apted to the requ i rements of di ffe rent loc alities H ere it is the sto ry of M b o q Loro J onggrang repe ated an d he r love r R aden au tifu l Bondowoso is the son of the be do o n B an g Devi D arm a Wati d aughter of Prab u D armo Moyo king of the mighty empire of Pengging d Prab u whose two brothe rs P rahu D armo H aj i an d D armo N oto we re kings respectively of S le m bri an ,
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The éa aaa Man di S ewu describes a p u blic functio n at the Co u rt of Prab u D armo M o y o who sits on his throne of ivory inl aid with the rarest gems The aloou aloono u tside sw arms with his warrio rs an d while he p rono u nces judgment an d in vests an d displ aces amb ass ado rs from P ramban an They delive r a letter fro m Prab u are anno u nced Kolo in which t h e Boko the gi ant king K aro o n g asks Prab u D armo M oyo s d au ghte r Devi D arm a Wati in m arri age The P rincess acq u ainted with his s u it decl ares th at she will m arry no one b u t the m anbe he king or begg ar able to rede a riddle which is given written on a Zon ta r le af to the amb ass ado rs who the re u pon depart On their arriv al at Pr amb an an Prab u K aro o n K olo b re aks g impatiently the se al of the comm u n ic ation le arning its mean ing his eyes d art fl ames his mo u th fo ams d te aring the lou ta r — le af into pieces an an d t rampling u pon it m aking the e arth tremble an d dis t u rbing the sky with his noisy wrath he collects his army an d m arches against Pengging to raz e the é r atou ’
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of Prab u D armo M oyo an d c arry D arm a W ati o ff The K ing of Pengging w arned of the approaching danger implores his brothe r D armo N oto K ing of S u dh im o ro to assist him ; with his b rothe r D armo H aj i K ing of S le m b ri anodio u s ty rant he has b roken long ag o Prab u D armo N oto orde rs his son the Crown Prince Raden D am ar M oyo to lead his t roops against the gi ant king Traversing the woods at the he ad of his men sc aling cli ffs an d climbing mountains crossing rive rs an d ravines att acked by evil spi r its an d wild anim als D am ar M oyo stren u o u s i n the c au se of his u ncle an d his fair cou sin h astens to their defence b u t le aving d tired out at eve ry one behind he loses his w ay an l ast falls asleep A st range sens ation of heavenly joy aw akens him an d opening his eyes he beholds the s u preme god B ath ara Naradh a who presents him with the celesti al we apons of the abode of the alves his fo rehe ad immortals J o n s rin S alo k o g gg with the divine spittle to m ake hi m inv u lne rable d p u ts into his h and the flower d invincible an an Sekar J oyo K u su m o which will en able him to rede d more Dev i D arm a Wati s riddle Strengthened an enth u si astic th a n eve r R aden D am ar M oyo having rejoi ned his army eng ages the gi ants of Pramb an an d foe with d defe ats them astonishing friend an an his acts of s u perh u m an prowess H e redes the law d his father in riddle m arries D arm a W ati an i e apati Prab u D armo M oyo appoints him sen comm ander lnchief of the forces of Pengging The legend being too long fo r insertion in fu ll .
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b esides i ts containing details too c andidly illustrative
of the gene rative emotion engendered by the wide ski rted J ag ann ath a summ ary of the events which di S ewu must led to the found ation of the Man s u ffic e Boko Prab u K aro o n g K olo K ing of P ramb an an loses his life in another attempt at the d Raden D a m ar M oyo s u bjugation of Pengging an h aving nothing more to fe ar from th at side but d contest resolves to n atu rally inclined to strife an t ake part in the wars then raging among the kings of the Thous and E mpi res Sewu N egoro So d the son born to them he le aves his wife an rows into a comely yo u th R aden B an who g do o n g d still in complete igno rance A rriving at m anhood an of his sire s n ame an d lineage the prince q u estions his mothe r on th at subj ect b u t in obedience to an exp ress o rder from the gods she refu ses to tell him d s u spicious he eq u ips himself from the Vexed an armo u ry of his g randfather Prab u D armo M oyo d eludes m ate rn al vigil ance esc aping from the an After m any k r atou in se arch of his father adventures c u lmin ating i n a conflict with his p arent in the Sewu N egoro the two meeting an d e x ch an g d p arti n ing h ard blows an g as strangers he re aches o o n Bondowoso left in Pramb ana n kills Tu me n g g g ch arge of th at re alm an d falls in love with Devi Loro J onggr ang daughte r of the l ate Boko Prab u But he h as been forestalled in her K aro on g K olo favour by his cousin R aden Boko who is to become h e r husb and on condition of the overthrow of d S u dh imo ro S u specting a riv al Pengging an ,
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96
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she gives u ntimely bi rth to a d au ghte r the fru it of d dies her affection for t u rtle doves an The b ru t al b affled love r still h au nts the neighbo u rhood which the refo re n ative mothers to b e sc ru p u lou sly avoid tho u gh it is not observed th at the virgins de rive m u ch inst ru ction from the legend as far as conce rns the conseq u ences of Devi o r M b o q Lo ro J On g arlier st age e rans a m ou r s at an g g From legend ary lo re we ret u rn to fact in the ai Sew u by m atte r of the fo u ndat ion of the caan t aking cognis ance of ani nsc ription ma apr attay a t i n u ne arthed a an t i n o r sa n r an r a g r an san gg g g g g ne ar one of its 2 4 6 (not tho u s an d ) temples extol a nimo u s G ranting ling the m u n c e of the m ag n ifi ce n Anting The style of w riting j u stifies the or conjectu re th at the b u ildings d ate from abo u t the ye ar 8 0 0 an d are conseq u ently of one ag e with the Boro B u do o r I f not e rected by one architect at d the g ifts the comm and of one bo u nteou s p rince an of seve ral pio u s so u ls who possessed the whe rewith al fo r devotion al wo rks they we re at le ast const ru cted according to one pl an ste adily kept i n view a good deal more than canbe s aid of m any religio u s edifices in weste rn climes which owe thei r existence less to I n respect co O pe rative th an to contentio u s piety of are a the l argest of the temple g rou ps in J av a the fi rst imp ression received from it is th at of a ch aos of ru ins confu sion being wo rse confou nded by the qu arries O pened he re an d there an d p artly d ru bbish while a l u xu ri ant filled ag ain with e arth an An d m vd t th m m t J gj k t ,
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veget ation reg aining on the inro ads of mattock an d pick axe quickly covers wh at they disturbed Look ing closer the sep arate sh rines with their el aborate tracery appe ar in the fie ry embrace of the su n like sp arkling j ewels trembling with delight in t h e luminous atmosphere bene ath the imm acul ate sky ; the ve ry m arks of dec ay an d rav aging time are b e au ti ful the weeds cl u stering ro u nd the b roken o rn ament the toppling w alls rouse to fancifu l thought N 0 sound is he ard ; nothing stirs while we m ake our w ay to the princip al str u ct u re once lording it over the sm aller ones which stood squ arely in fou r lines 2 8 for the i ne r 4 4 for the next 8 0 for the third 8 8 fo r the outer circumv all ation E xcepting those of the second row their entran ces faced inward an d amidst their sc anty rem ains the found ations h ave been uncovered of five somewh at l arger ones : two to the east two to the west an d one to the north like the outlying b u ildings these are with regard to thei r s u perstruct u res as if they n eve r existed Of the terraces an d st airc ases no othe r trace is left th an the telltale unevenness of the gro u nd The resem ' bl ance i n constr u ctive methods between the t aan ai Sew u an d the e an di P ramb an an strikes one at the first gl ance the s ame b u ilders it is surmised strove 1 here to do for the Triratn a wh at there they did for the T rim o o rt i ; an d if not t he sam e they discerned d equ al l y the one t ru th bo u nd up in the old creed an d the new an d exp ressed i t w ith eq u al skill an conviction in these twin litanies of stone—so th e n d th g m th B ddh th l w n g g ti n Th th ,
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wo rke rs wro u ght an d the wo rk w as perfected by them The decorators in ch arge of the finishing to u ches embellished this city of temples with a we alth of orn ament which in the q u iveri n g gl are of day d pill age clothes s anctity despite rav age of time an in robes of enc ru sted winsomeness The sc u lpt u re of the e an ai Sew u s ays a visitor of a cent u ry ag o is t astefu l delic ate an M u ch of wh at he d ch aste based his j u dgment on h as since been c arried f or demolished b u t wh at rem a ins fu lly be ars him of d cl u stered d festoons g arl ands an o u t : foli age an flowers dist ributed over facings divided into d fa nt a stically lo z enges an d circles by pil asters an d deer in c u rved lines with lions tige rs c attle an ever v arying ab u nd ance awaken reminiscences of the carvings which excited o u r admi ration at P ramb an an an D id the d le ad to the q u estion : richly framed p anellings of the twenty fo u r exte rn al wall spaces of the cent ral temple exhibit scenes from the epics an d fable books besides this s u mpt u o u s adornment to m atch the almost u nifo rm h as reliefs of the lesser st ru ct u res ? I f so they m u st h ave riv alled the artistic excellence of the R amay an a reliefs which beau tify the shrines of Siv a Brahm a an And a second question arises : Was d Vishn u the central temple t he depository of a relic p I n connection with this query it dese rves to be noticed that generally spe aking an d excepting st at u ary the intern al w all sp aces of the e an ai S ewu l ack orn ament evince a sobe rness in m arked cont rast to .
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the ext rav agant rep resentations of the abode of bitterness as if sign o r house p ainters had been ent ru sted with the ill u stration of D ante s I n o fer n repu lsive attempts a la Wie rtz min u s the t alent to be admired in the R u e Vau tie r at B ru ssels n ig h t i m ares of cr u de d rawing an d c ru de r colo u ring to depict perverse to rtu re I found in e aste rn edifices raised to s atisfy p riestly conventions even in Ceylon the isl and of the doct rine th at the B u ddh a next to dwell on e arth is the M e t te ya B u ddh a the B u ddh a of K indness M o re in h armony with the sou l s ye arning fo r his kingdom to come is the lotu s motive h appily adapted to the deco ration of the e an a i S ew u especi ally in one of the par ti ally p rese rved sm all temples of the o u ter file to the e ast of the so u the rn ent rance from a st rong ste rnwhich separates into th ree branches on th ree of the sides the ent rance taking u p the fo u rth th ree lot u s in a finely fl o we rs spring from the soil to c arry chiselled niche the (v anished ) im age of the expected d coming afte r one the gone before an A few of the o u tlying b u ildin g s h ave plain facings witho u t t at all fro m whi ch it has been co an y o rn ame n cl u ded th at here too somethi n g h appened to stop the l abo u r in p rog ress Where completed the pl u mp bellied flowerpot a famili ar fe at u re in J av anese o rn ament ente rs l argely into the deco ra tive design an d its freq u ent repetition bestows on the sc u lpture of the ofi an a i Sewu otherwise so ve ry simil ar to th at of Pramban an a ch aracte r all its own -
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I t has al re ady been rem arked th at the interiors of the str u ct u res which together fo rm this group The recesses of the are almost b are of decoration al orn ament s u rpasses central temple whose exter n in l u xu ri ance everything met elsewhere in J av a three sm all inte rconnected apartments projecting on the west north an d south while the eastern front is 1 broken by the po rch h ave only empty niches framed by pil aste rs with flowe ry c apitals The d inner ch amber no less sobe rly decorated an eg ligé st ripped of the stat u ary it possessed enn as it were ,
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on its weste rn side a raised throne of ample dimensions once pe rh aps occ u pied by the l arge im age witho u t he ad an d right h and du g o u t of “ the debris an d c arried off to the m u se u m at J ogj a I t still aw aits i dentific ation an d the di ffi c u lty is incre ased by the impropriety of spec u l ating on the likelihood th at represent ations of the u nive rs al spirit we re admitted in a temple bu ilt for the ritu al of a creed which acknowledges neither a god n or a soul aspi ring to comm u nion with the divine essence in prayer desiring nothi n g b u t annihil ation Yet the B u ddhists did learn to pray an d to give tran sce n de n tal ide as a t angible expression in h u m an shape though they never s ank to idol at ry And in J av a mixing freely with B rahm anism not im pe rme has
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balked even the absol u te dec rees of loc al despotism d Everything desirable th at co u ld be det ached an removed is howeve r gone Those in au tho rity h aving exe rcised their p rivilege by helping them selves me re p riv ate individ u als gle aned afte r thei r d exceedingl y re aping with or witho u t permission an inte resting collections of antiqu ities we re fo rmed by owne rs of neighbo u ring s u gar mills What they did at least rem ain in the co u nt ry approp ri ated othe r sc u lpt u re the lion fi g h t in among but g eleph an ts wh ich lin ten e d the fo u rteen st ai rc ases feet high an d eight feet wide still in pl ace as l ate cannot even be traced— they are dissolved as 1 8 4 1 d battling anim als st ai rc ases an I t is alw ays an d all d o rn ame n ev erywhe re the s ame sto ry : st at u ary an t are stolen tre as u re seeke rs sm ash the rest the stones are p rime b u ilding m ateri al an d who c ares for the prese rv ation of wo rthless bec au se al re ady looted an d demolished tu mble down temples ? The mon u ments in the pl ain of So ro G e do o g h ave s u ffe red exception al o u trages ; at this moment h ardly anything is left bec au se the re exists absol u tely no cont rol s ays M ajo r v an E rp H is investiga tions disclosed th at stones t aken from the oli an ai d when this was stopped from the Pramb an an an oa an ai Sew u we re u sed f o r the b u ilding of a dam in the rive r Opak H ad not pu blic opinion m ade itself he ard both these temples might h ave sh ared ai Singo o n the fate of the e an ce one of the finest in th at region whos e gracefully deco rated w alls excited the admi ration of B ru m u n d i n 1 8 4 5 whose .
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subst ru ctu re with d am aged o rn ament still held o u t until 1 8 8 6 while n o w the g ro u nd pl an c annot even d deep holes du g to get at the be g u essed at an fo u nd ations are the only indic ations of the raz ed building s site To give anide a of the qu antity of m ate ri al used fo r the dam in the rive r Op ak I t ransc ribe the me as u rements of its revet m ents 35 met res on the left an d from 5 0 to 60 metres on the r i ht b ank ; the facings r u nning u g p to a height of 6 metres m ake it evident beyond do u bt whe re the stone for th at wo rk w as q u arried N eithe r are we q u ite s u re th at s u ch frightfu l spoli ation belongs wholly to the p ast The v al u e of Gove rnment solicit u de so eloq u ently p araded in circul ars an d coloni al repo rts canbe g au ged from the fact stated by M r L Serru rie r th at d u ring o ffici ally s anctioned a i s Pl ahos an exc av ations among the ru ins of the o/zan d Sew u the stones bro u ght to the s u rface we re an simply thrown pell mell on a he ap withou t thei r being m arked as to loc ality an d position q u ite in keeping it sho u ld be added with the prev ailing c u stom This acco u nts for the sad desol ation mo re pitifu l s ince soi — t arch aeologists got thei r h ands in di san cli s ai Sew u as at the e an shone u pon at the oaan Pl ahos an S ari K al as an P an at aran to restrict myself to one n ame from E ast J av a — shone u pon by the su nthe egg of the world whose yolk holds the germ of cre ation S u ry a the sol ar o rb personi fi e d is a comp anion wonderfully grandly suggestive “ thous and temples of life accomplished among the -
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dec aying into new bi rth whether he sco rches t he earth an d withers the d rooping flowers or climbs a dim h az y sky to attract the v apou rs th at descend ag ain in precious showe rs when the clo u ds collect an d cover the stars ch arming from d arkness the lovely d awn an The medit ations he d budding day disposes the mind to are mostly directed to the d even the fu tu re dre ams of coming h appiness an as atis contempl ative Buddhist im ages under the B an p seem agit ated by thei r knowledge of a p romise excelling the hop e of N i rv an a which c an n ot s atisfy the aspirations of the child ren of this isl and fu ll of the joy of existence Wh at will the fu t u re bring to them the people c radled in tempest who we re t au ght forbe arance by a c reed profoundly imb u ed with the inner n at u re of things an d s u bmission d pestilence c ame as the when misery of war an h arbinge rs of bondage to analien race To o tru st fu l they sacrificed thei r bi rthright for a mess of d after the encro achments of the Com pottage an pany p ast ages crowding on their memo ry the felicity of the j amanbu aa ass u mes to their im agin a tion a tangible sh ape in the ancient mon u ments fou nded by th e rulers of thei r own flesh an d bloo d edifices so widely di ffe rent from the meretriciou s Government opium dens an d Govern ment pawn shops in which the predatory instinct of the p resent m aste rs m anifests itself— lay i naaé u lu lay i nse a 1 r an Resigned to fate wh ich wills the m u t ability g of e arthly rel ations the J avan ese philosopher—an d Di f n t fy diff n w t n ,
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wit h sea
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C HA PT E R VIII THE
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A M ONG the ancient mon u ment s of I n su lin de the Sit u ated ceps ai Boro B u do o r sta nds facile pr i n oli an the K adu it is e as ily re ached from J o gj ak art a abo u t in twenty fi v e miles or from M agel ang abou t eighteen miles distant by carri age o r still more e asily by taking the ste am tram which connects those two d le aving the c ars at Mo o n provinci al c apitals an t ilan where anenterprising Chin am an provides vehicles ia the at short notice for the rest of the jo u rney v do o t on the left b ank of the E110 j u st ai M e n oli an N o bette r a bove its confluence with the Progo app r o a ch to the m ost cons u mm ate achievement of B u ddhist architectu re in the isl and or i n the whole wo rld canbe im agined th an this one which leads di by v y pp p i t nm b t w d nth D t h E t I n Th ED U A D Do v d g t t w it f th was DE KK E ( M ) H llan t y p din g n 1
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AP
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p ast the sm aller but scarcely l ess nobly conceived su r d conscientiously e x ec u ted temple a co m m e n an at e introduction to the wonderfu l c rowning edifice across the w ate rs portal to the holiest in grad ation of m ajestic beau ty The K adu has been well styled the garden O f J av a as J av a the ple as ance of the E ast full of n atural Ch arms which c aptiv ate the senses abou nding in amenities soothing to body d so u l ; b u t if it had nothing mo re to offe r th an an the Boro B u do o r an d the M e n do o t it wo u ld rew ard the visitor to those central shrines of Buddhism far beyond expect ation B ehind the hors e s a ment al rec apitul ation of the d B uddhist architect u re ch aracteristics of H ind u an in the golden ag e of J av anese art will not come d the re may be some wonder th a t with an amiss so m u ch veneration for the B h ag avat in friendly competition with the J ag ad Guru nowhere in the rint is shown of the blessed foot an imp e ri a w a n g j of promise with the deliverer s thirty -fi rst sign the wheel of the law on the sole I f in expl an ation it sho u ld be addu ced th at he never travelled to those distant shores wh at does th at m atter ? H as he ’ be en i n Ceylon ? And how then about the sr ipaaa the record left there as in so m any other countries e hints at good l u ck ? with the sixty fi v While we revolve such q u estions our c arri age rolls on ; the co achm an cracks his whip e vidently proud of his skill in tu rning sh arp corners witho u t reining in the ru nners j u mp with am az ing agility o ff an d on d crack tlzezr whips rush to the the foot bo ard an ,
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Me n do o t is
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nknown b u t the re are re asons fo r ai believing th at it w as b u ilt shor tly afte r the oli an d 85 0 B o ro B u do o r at some time between 7 0 0 an S aka ( 7 7 8 an d 9 2 8 of the Ch risti an e ra) in the glo rio u s pe riod of J av anese architect u re to which ai s we owe also the P ramb an an g ro u p the e an K al as an Sew u a n d wh ateve r is of the best inthe isl and The re are addition al re asons fo r believing th at the splendo u r loving p rince who o rde red the Bo ro B u do o r to be raised an d u nde r whose reign the wo rk on tha t st u pendo u s mo n u ment w as begun do o t too as a m au sole u m to fo u nded the M e n d th at his ashes we re pe rpet u ate his memo ry an deposited in the royal tomb of his own designing before its completion I f so he w as one of the most d libe ral b u ilde rs we h ave cognis ance of prolific an b u t his memo ry is n ameless an d all we know of him pe rson ally besides the imposing evidence to his A u gustan disposition cont ained in the s u pe rb st ru ctu res he left rests u pon two pieces of sc u lpt u re at the entrance to the inne r ch ambe r of the mortu ary ch apel if s u ch it be which rep resent a royal co u ple with a rou nd do z en of children j u st as we find in some old western ch u rches the c arved or p ainted im ages of thei r fo u nders families We are perh aps indebted f o r the prese rv ation of these s u ggestive reliefs to the ci rc u mstance of the oli an ai Me n do o t h aving been covered hidden from view d to a ce rtain extent p rotected d u ring cent u ries an A din g t nth pl nti nth y p n g S dh d n n t K in d M y wi th Siddh th th f t Q n B ddh b by i nh m whi h l v inth d k b t th th hild n u
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sh all fi rst ende avo u r to give a gene ral ide a of this temple which according to the s ame w rite r tho u gh sm all is of ext reme inte rest fo r the history of J av anese architect u re Ro u ffaer c alls it the cl assic model of a central shrine with s u bst ru ctu re an d ch u rchyard while obse rving th at the princip al statu e of the Boro B u do o r the rest of whose statu es are t u rned either tow ards one of the c ardin al points or towards the z enith faces the e ast an d the M en doot opens to the west the two temples the re fore fronting each other Closely observed the l atter p roved of do u ble design since it con sists of a stone oute r sheath bu ilt ro u nd anolde r st ru ctu re of brick the o rigin al fo rm with its p anellings d pe rpendicu l ar p rojections h aving ho ri z ontal an been scru p u lo u sly followed The ne atly fitting joints bo th of the hew nstones an d of the b ricks of the inte rio r filling show a m astery of constru ctive detail rarely met with at the p resent day an d ce rt ainly not in J av a To this wonderfu l techniqu e adding solidity to a g racefu l exec u tion of the gro u nd pl an belongs all the c redit fo r the M e n do o t hold ing o u t notwithstanding pe rsistent ill us age An ecstatic thou ght b rightly bodied forth by a daring d astonishing skill a ch arming act im agin ation an of devotion blossoming from the fl o we r decked soil as the lotu s of the good law did from the g arden d u nive rs al love it m u st h ave looked of wisdom an g randly be au tifu l in its profu se orn ament which t au ght how to be precise witho u t pettiness how to att ain the u tmost finish witho u t s acrificing the ,
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ensemble to trivi al el aboration Y e t this gem of J av anese architectu re seemed desti n ed to complete destr u ction I ts pitifu l dec ay did not to u ch the s u ccessors of Resident H artm an When in 1 8 9 5 a fter several ye ars absence from the isl and I c ame to renew acqu aintance it h ad visibly cru mbled “ aw ay o ffici al interference with collecto rs limited itself to notices st u ck u p on a bamb u fence w arning them of the dange r they ranfrom the roof falling in I t needed two ye ars mo re of demolition the w alls bu lging o u t the copings tu mbling down before the co rrespondence opened in 1 8 8 2 anent a desi r able restoration prod u ced some res u lt ; befo re the Me n do o t the jewelled cl asp of th at st ring of pe arls the B u ddhist e an ai s pendent on the b re ast of J av a from the Bo ro B a doo r her di amond ti ar a w as going to be refitted A nd how ? I t is anu npleas ant tale to tell after d reconsideration two dec ades of cons ide ration an i nthe fo u rth ye ar of the prelimin ary l abo u rs of restoration the loc al rep resent ative of the Depart ment of P u blic Wo rks pu t in ch arge of the job fi ciently ex acting as a side iss u e of his alre ady s u f norm al d u ties aro u sed s u spicions concerning his competency i n the arch aeologic al line A n alte rc a tion with Dr B randes followed by more controve rsy ' d in p rint led to com ot e in writing an ae ai r/ a v his i c e with his req u est th at it might ple ase l an p d s u perio rs to relieve him from his addition al an s u bordin ate task as reconst ru cto r of ancient mon u ments From th at moment J an u ary 2 1 90 1 u ntil .
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d bsol u tely n othing w as do n e an the sc affoldings e rected all ro u nd the bu ilding were s u ffe red to ro t aw ay symbolic of the ext rav ag ant impec u niosity of a Gove rnment which never c ares how money is w asted b u t always postpones needfu l an d u rgent imp rovements till the G reek K alends 1 on the plea of its ch ronic state of k u r an g g wa n When most of the H 8 60 0 H 7 2 35 H 2 51 4 2 an d fl 4 2 7 4 s u ccessively w ru n g from P arli ame n t for ex at io n d restoration h ad been sq u ande red on c av s an wh at Dr B randes conside red to be bu ngling p atch work the expensive u seless sc affoldings becoming d ange rou s to the p asse rs b y in thei r negl ected st ate necessit ated the disb u rsement in 1 9 0 6 of H 350 for thei r remov al On the contin u ation of the wo rk in 1 90 8 by othe r h ands of co u rse a new one also of te ak wood had to be e rected A nd the resto ration once mo re being u nde r w ay on the strength of fl 680 0 gru dgingly allotted P arli ament decided fin ally th at no s u ffi cient c au se had been shown to b u rden the coloni al b u dget with the su m which according to an estim ate of 1 9 1 0 was req u i red to b ring it to anend ! The pro fl ig ate ly pen u rio u s m and arins of anexchequ er exh au sted by almost limitless libe rality in the m atte r of high bo u nties s u bsidies allow ances g rants fo r expe riments which neve r le ad to anything of practic al v al u e ; in the m atte r of schemes which cost millions an d millions only to p rove thei r u tte r worthlessness — the penny
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A P P ROA C H
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w ise pound foolish he ads refused after ane x pe n di ture of H 52 40 1 to little purpose to disb u rse fl 2 1 7 0 0 or even fl 7 0 0 0 more for the completion of the work commenced this time under g u arantee of s u ccess Arguments advanced to m ake them r evoke their decision were met with the statement th at the Government did not i ntend to devi ate from the line of cond u ct adopted after m at u re del iberation in reg ard to the ancient monuments of J av a rest rict a i ng its c are to preserv ation of the rem ains ch aracteristic s ample of Governmental c an t in the face of grossest c arelessness an d the kind of pre se rv ation inflicted on the chan P an at aran or ai whe rever its o ffi ci als felt constrained by pu blic opinion to act upon m ake believe circul ars from B atavi a an d B u iten z o rg before pigeon holing them A nd so the perplexing inconsistencies of D u tch E ast I ndi an fin ance parsimony pl aying o/t assez with boundless p rodigality are faithfu lly cr oisez do o t : ai M e n mi rro red in the trib u l ations of the e an the re au thorised work of restoration was stopped again on the usu al progress killing ple a of k u r an g fter the adj ustment of the first tier above a twan g the cornice an d the temple bereft of its crowning roof i ndag o b style c alc u l ated to fix the b asic conception in the beholder s mind has in its st u nted condition been aptly compared to a bird of d with the crest gorgeo u s plum age all ru ffled an fe athers pu ll ed out The operations were h ampered by s til l othe r con ropos a a a s w u a tremendo s b tt l e w ed p i e s t A r i e t ra g -
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M O N U M E N TA L J AVA
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of the question w hethe r o r not g aps in the l aye rs of stones of th e front w all above the porch pointed to the existence of a p ass age or p ass ages for the d light to the inner ch amber ; admittance of air an if so whether or not those p ass ages incli ned at an t to let the s u n s r ays illumine the i cie n angle su fl he ad of the pri ncipal stat u e in th at inner ch ambe r To rehe arse the he ated dispute is not profitable d ai h ad fallen into ruin an as u s u al after the t an fi ci al co rrespondence h ad lifted its anendless o f r u in into prominence arch aeological faddists of every desc ription tried to acqu i re fame with abs u rd s u ggestions an d craz y spec u l ations Le av ing their theo ries regarding the inclin ations of the axes of p rob able or possible t ransm u ral apert u res for wh at they are more instruction is to be derived from the deco rative arrangements The inherent beau ty of the o rn ament s u rvived h appily the inju rious e ffects of ch anging monsoons of ru thless robbery of p reserv a tion in the Governme n t se n se of the word When the sun c aresses it the F riendly Day u nder the blu e v au lt of the all compassi n g sky smiling at this gem of h u m an art offered in conjug al obedience by the e arth which trembles at his touch it seems a s acri fi cial gift of re fl o we ri n mo r t ality to he aven In g art s a id Lessing the p rivilege of the ancients was to give no thing either too m u ch or too little an d the rem ark of the great c ritic as here we cansee applies to a wider range of cl assic activit y th an he h ad in mind Whe reve r the ancien t artist w ro u ght in Greece o r in J av a we find moreover th at he ,
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sentient c re at u res o u r poo r rel ations the anim als st riving on lower pl anes to obtain u ltim ate delive ry from sin an d p ain b u t no less entitled to bene c e th an m an v o le n ai s P an a As in the decoration of the you nger t aan taran an f ables occ u py a p rominent d T o o m pan g do o t position in th at of the t aan Among ai M e n the twenty two sce n es sp re ad ove r the ne arly t ri angu l ar sp aces to the right an d left of the st ai rc ase which asce n ds to the entrance eleven on each side p artly lost an d wholly d am age d are fo r inst ance ill u strative of the popu l ar sto ries of the reliefs to rtoise an d the geese of the b rahm an the c rab the c row an d the se rpents etc Of one of them only a sm all fragment is left representing a tu rtle with its he ad tu rned u pw ard gaz ing at somethi n g in the air whence Dr B randes infers its connection with the following tale inserted in the acco u nt of the conce rted action of the anim als which conspired to kill the eleph an t as rende red in the Tan tr i an old J av an ese collection of fables : Once u pon a time the re we re t u rtles who took co u ns el togethe r abo u t the depred ations of a raveno u s v u ltu re an d thei r — k a oay an t h u chief of comm nity sked Wh at do e a ( ) yo u intend to do to esc ape being e aten by th at bi rd ? Accept my advice an d lay him a w ager th at u can o cross the se a q u icke r th an he if he l au ghs y at yo u r conceit yo u m u st c rawl into the se a where the big waves are except two of yo u one who st ays to start on the race when he begi n s to fly an d one who swims across the day before an d w aits
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for h im at the other side Wh at do yo u think turtles ? Y o u c annot lose if you m an age this wel l Your advice is excel l ent answered they an d while the k aoay anw as still inst ru cting them the vulture arrived an d dem anded a turtle to e at — Wh at is your h u rry spoke the é aoay anfor them all ; I bet you th at an swim quicker across the y one of us can — se a th an yo u can fl I t ake th at bet replied the y vulture b u t wh at sh all I h ave if I win — If you d my people winyo u will be at libe rty to e at me an d our children an d g randchildren an d g re at grand an d so on an children an d so on to the end of time ; but you m u st pledg e your word th at if yo u lose you will move from here an d seek your food elsewhere I t is now rather l ate b u t to morrow mo rning you choose an can y one of my people yo u ple ase to m atch yo u r swift flight with —All right s aid the vultu re an d he went to his nest to sleep b u t the sent one of his turtle people ac ross the se a é abay an The v u lt u re showed himself again a little after d awn d the not to w aste time for he felt pretty h u ng ry an sooner he could win the race the soone r he would h ave b reakfast H e did not even take the pre cau d tion to select anadvers ary among the dec repit an d besides slow so s u re was he of his superiority an The é aoay an all the t u rtles were so m u ch alike d the v u lt u re he ard counted one two three go ! an d he u nfolded one of them plunge into the water an his wings an instant d alighted at the other side i n an when 10 there he saw the beas t c almly waiting for d moved to a him T he vu l ture felt as hamed an .
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distant country fo r he did not know th at he had been che ated And there was only one v u lture but there were m any t urtles And the boar tol d this event to his friends exactly as the reverend B asu b arg a s aw it h appen Anothe r fable still more widely dist ributed an d clinching the same moral is th at of the é am fi zl (a d the sn ail sm all extremely fleet species of deer) an travelling to E urope it is there best known in its d Wilhelm Germ an form recorded by j akob an Grimm Of its m any v ari ants in the M al ay Archipel ago we m ay mention the w ager between d a tiger as to which could most e asily a sn a il an jump a rive r ; the sn ail att aching herself to one of he r big com petitor s paws wins of course an d conv inces the ter ro r of the woods by me a s of his h ai rs adhering to h e r body th at she is accustomed to feed on his k ind two or th ree per diem freshly killed whereupon the tiger le aves off bl u stering an d sneaks aw ay The p rose ve rsion of the Tan trz which somewh at di ffe rent from the two metric al re adings known to u s cont ains the vult u r e an d turtl e incident dates p rob ably from the l as t h alf of the d is th e refore at le ast four Mojopahit period an centu ries younger th an the c/zcm az Me n do o t so th at Th i n fl n f at nf bl nw t nli t t n d t i nll it nt b v tim t d b nh n mpli fi d f in t n wi th p i l l vn t th nj t f d t by th l t EM M Po n (CA AN D ACH E) ld f i n wh nh m d d M i imit t th m ll b gg d i inhi d ligh tf l t n L P n t fl m p d tg d F ig d (L n ) An t y f th vl t th n d th t tl f n d it w y v pl n i Am i n tati n lgn d in t I C HA I t l f Unl R m Cnn in g th m n n f th Mig ti nfF bl f m E t t W t m t in g p ti l t t in n b f n d inMa Mii L Ch p f m G m n W k / p iv p 45if .
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AP
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g re atness an d p roviding a b asis fo r a firm sense of d u ty to g u ide a tempe rament of fi re are nobly embodied in the th ree gigantic stat u es pl aced in the inne r ch amber of the M e n do o t o r to be q u ite exact ro u nd which th a t cfi cm a z w as re ared f o r the ent rance is too sm all to let them th ro u gh especi ally the l argest of the m which mi rac u lo u sly u nd am aged s ave one missing fi n g e r tip has slid down from its pedestal an d conseq u ently occ u pies a lowe r st ation between the s u bo rdin ate fig u res th an origin ally d the first in intended All th ree are se ated an rank of one piece with his u nembellished th rone d me as u res fo u rteen feet ; the two to his right an left of less grave aspect we aring richly w ro u ght neckl aces armlets w r istb ands anklets an d ti aras me as u re eight feet e ach I f the 007 ”d mo re excellent th an a c rown ide n tifies the m aster among them the position of whose finge rs reminds of i B u dd ha the othe rs the first Dhyan V aj ro ch an a a an h ave been t aken respectively fo r a B o dh isatv d fo r a devotee who att ained by his me ritorio u s life a high degree of s aintliness but whose B r ahm anic adornment fl atly contradicts the B u ddhist ch aracte r of s u ch pe rfection This expl an ation is therefore d u n accept able by m any considered uns atisfacto ry an as f o r inst ance his M aj esty S o m de tc h Ph ra P ara m in dr Chu lalo n g k o rnthe l ate K ing of S i am who by the way when visiting the c/Lan azs M e n do o t an d Boro B u do o r in 1 8 9 6 cl ai m ed those m aste rpieces of m afi ay am stzc art for his own the southe r n ch u rch Th B ddh h t i ti t ft b nh fh i b tw nth y b w ,
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M O N U M E N TA L J AVA
2 24
CH
AP
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silve r or snow smiled u pon by the su n Though ; etc the coloss al st at u e of the welcome redeeme r like those of the wo rshipping kings does not recommend itself by fau ltless modelling it b re athes the spirit which s u stains the am é at him who becomes worthy ; it radi ates the tranq u il felicity of annihil ation of d p ain ; it p romises the existence sin sorrow an fin al blowing out of life s c and l e the N irv an a when the u nderst anding will be re ached of the Adi Buddh a the p rimitive p rimordi al immeas u rable And the lowest of the fo u r deg rees of the N i rv an a it seems to say is al re ady attain able on e arth by em ancipation from the bond age of fl e shly desi re an d vice by avoidance of th at which t aints an d co rr u pts The noond ay gl are s u bd u ed by the he avy sh adow of the po rch fills the s anct u ary with d u pon its dimly gle aming wi n a golden h az e an gs a faint m u sic descends a song of delive rance The ps almist s visions of the cove ring of i n iq u ity comp ass d invite to recognitio nof a common us abo u t an so u rce of divine inspiratio ni nm an kind of wh atever c reed The scent of the melatz an d cé ampaé a flowe rs d in the lap of the deity— the st rewn at the feet an im age of him who tau ght th at the re is none s u ch an d reve red by p rofessed believe rs in the Book which consigns idol aters to hell fi re — mingles with the pu ngent odo u r of the d roppings of the bats d screeching things in the dark recesses fl u tte ring an of the roof dist u rbed in thei r sleep Tru ly there ought to be a limit to syncretism an d this l ast mentioned mixtu re of hete rogeneo u s element s soon .
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A P P R OAC H T O B O RO
B U DOO R
22
af f
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ects the visitor in a m anner so o ffensive th at r et re at becomes a m atter of necessity As we step o u tside o u r eyes are blinded by the b u rning light in u nd ating the v alley the fiery fu rn ace abl az e at the fo ot of mo u nt ains fl aming u to the p sky a te rro r of b e au ty : Thi nk of the fi re th at sh all cons u me all c re ation a d early seek you r " resc u e s aid the B u ddh a I t spe ak s to u s of the c ataclysm which shook J av a on her found ation in the wate rs an d u p set the work of m ankilling him i n his thou s ands an d b u ry ing his temples the Me n d o o t an d m an y m any mo re u nde r the ashes of h e r volc a noes some s u ch u phe av al as when the conflict began between the S avio u r of th e Wo rld an d the Gre at E nemy to q u ote from the s acred sc riptu res ; when the e ar th was conv u lsed the se a u p rose fr om its bed the rive rs t u rned b ack to their so u rces the hill tops fell c rashing to the pl ains ; d a host of when the day at length was d arkened an headless spi rits rode u pon the tempest Thou gh the g ro u nd h as also been raised by the d rift down the slopes of the M e rapi by the overflowing r u nnels d the disch arging their lo ad of m u d into the E110 an Progo the m agnit u de of volc anic dev astation can be g au ged from the di fference in level between d the site of the é amfi on the base of the Man di an g higher u p u nde r which the pl atform extends where its s u bsidi ary b u ildings stood Exc av ations in on the det ritu s h ave al re ady res u lted in the discove ry of po rtions of a b rick p arapet once enclosing the temple g ro u nds ; of vestiges of sm aller shrines in .
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ca
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the e ast co rne r of the te rrace an d of a cru cifo rm brick s u bst ru ct u re to the no rthe ast with fragments aspat i probably of bell sh aped cé azty as ; of a B an d det ached from the b al u st rade of the stai rc ase an stones with an d witho u t sculpt u red o rn ament which reve aled the former existence of seve ral mini ature temples s u rrou nding the central one At the time of my l ast visit (which c ame ne ar te rmin ating my c areer in my present e ar thly frame throu gh the rotten scaf folding givi ng way u nder my feet when ascending to the roof) more th an h alf of the sp ace conjectu rally encomp assed by the p arapet still awaited explora tion an d since then resto ration within the limits of the sc an ty s u ms allowed seems to h ave s u perseded exc av ation I n connection with both the n ames an sho u ld be mentioned of P H v der H am who did wonde rs with the little me ans at his dispos al an d C den H amer who showed th at the decoration of do o t too was not completed befo re the the M e n g re at c atast rophe which dev astated Central J av a an d stopped architect u ral p u rs u its Reviewing the history of the ancient mon u ments of the isl and not one c anp ass withou t a repetition of the sad tale of spoli ation H oweve r u nple as an t it be to reco rd in every single inst ance the c u lpable negligence of a Government stiffening gene ral d almost enco u raging down right indifference an robbe ry the rapid deterioration of those splendid T h w d / ty n d d g b di imint ly n ft n d in d vy d g b i in f t l ty b t l ty i d g b n ly if it n li t in D fi n di M n d t v dd d R t p bli ti nf th B l m k t G nt l p 9 3 '
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M O N U M E N TA L J AVA
228
K ro m o
or
CH
AP
Wo n g so o rde red to p art with his door ,
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d step o r coinings there is n o do u bt th at it is illeg al an d temples highly cens u rable to demolish temples an like the M e n do o t at th at to sec u re b u ilding m ate ri al d b ridges Wh at h appened fo r Gove rnment d ams an d has in Mojokerto with the b ricks of M ojop ahit an been compl ained of elsewhe re I saw h appen in do o t stones freely u sed for ab u t Men 1 8 8 5 with ments piers sp and rel fillings etc when near by the sp anning of the P rogo was in progress Th at b ridg e h as since s u cc u mbed like the railw ay b ridge then in co u rse of const ru ctio nfarthe r down the P rogo a warning which if heeded might h ave prevented fo r inst ance the chronic misfo r tu nes of the railway b ridge in the Anei gorge West Co ast of S u m at ra With Gove rnment bridges l acking the strength to resist the impetu osity of more th an o rdin arily boisterou s freshets the re m ay alw ays be a s u rprise in store fo r the pilg rim to the B o ro B u do o r who h as arrived at the fi rst st ation the M e n do o t : will he or will he not find the me ans to c ross ? Fo r in time of ban j Z r i a when the r iver is in sp ate the p r imitive fe rry which m aint ains the comm u nic ation inlie u of bette r a b ambu raft o r two frail barges fastened togethe r fails as to both comfort an d s afety an d after he avy rains l arge gro u ps of men an d women can often be seen w aiting for the tu rb u lent w ate rs to q u iet down a bit Lord K itchene r v isited the Me n do o t in Decembe r 1 90 9 d u ring a b ridgeless d conditions generally in auspicio u s to his spell an ,
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T H E CH A N D I
PA W O N
A N D T HE R
h u rs ) ( C N ie u we n .
A N DU A L A S
2
M ON U M E N TA L J AVA
30
CH
AP
.
stronge r p artner in the m at rimoni al game the l atter throve an d p rospered at the expense of the fo rme r d still are m any N ow of his brothers the re were an exactly like him b u t of h e r siste rs there we re only d few an d none of her peculi ar kind of be au ty an since it seemed a pity th at she shou ld w aste her singu l ar comeliness in s u pporting a h u sb and of no d p ar ade of p articu l ar worth fo r all his bigness an protecting h e r a divorce was resolved u pon which me ant his sentence of de ath Voices in favo u r of reprieve or comm u tation of the pen alty were disregarded : wh at did one r an du alas more o r less m atte r compared with the p reserv ation of the exqu isite ok r maz P awon sole s u rviving representa tive of he r cl ass So the tree was cu t down an d she esc aped h appily the fate which overtook the c/zan ai s d Prin Perot an The ck c maz P awon was g apo o s even wholly restored ; its found ations s apped by a 1 t angle of roots relaid ; its roof reconst ru cted In its g racefu l p roportions a striking ill u st ration of the truth th at a gre at architect canshow the v ast range of his art in a ve ry sm all b u ilding m ay it stand m any centuries longer between M e n do o t an d Bo ro B u do o r as the typic al expression of J av anese tho u ght in D ravidi an style ! d still i n the st ately aven u e of All is q u iet an 2 fi rm ar zs an d few wayfare rs are likely to be m e t ” “ a except fter fi u asa Th an longen folke to gon d the Boro B u do o r attracts a on p ilgrim ages an B y th rhit t N D H M C n m mm n f m B m O m l n th g ly f t t y -
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M O N U M E N TA L J AVA
2 32
CH
u AP v .
r
the setting su nreveal perspectives of bo u ndless immensity vistas of infinite dist ance The b rilli ancy of he aven reflected by this m ass of fo rcefu l im age ry this conq u e ring thou ght wo rked in solid stone receives new l u stre from the dome enci rcled fu nd a ment al idea so mightily exp ressed N owhe re has art mo re ably av ailed herself of the possibilities of d mo re felicito u sly combined w ith n atu ral site an scene ry c re ated a mo re h armonio u s ensemble th an in the am az ingly o rigin al design an d delicate execu tion of this p u iss ant temple this gift of the J avanese B u ddhists to poste rity a so u rce of spi ritu al q u ickening to whoso t ries to u nde rstand ,
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CHAPTER THE ST ONE S du ’
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the convenience of visitors to the B oro B u do o r o ffers fai r accommod a tion to the stu dent of orient al architect u re an d lover of art in wh ateve r fo rm Also to a good m any who feel it inc u mbent on them to be able to say I h ave taken everything in o r who h ave q u ite othe r ends in V iew th an comm u nion with the tho u ght of distant ages : foreign to u rists whose princip al c are is to exhibit t ru nks an d tr avelling b ags cove red with l abels of o u t o f the be aten t rack hotels while thei r brains rem ain hopelessly empty ; j u nkete rs of domestic g ro w th often in co u ples whose irreg u l ar “ rel ations seek shelte r behind the exc u se of doing the isl and an d he ar tily disinclined to practise the virtu es pre ached in the reliefs of the shrine of shrines p artic u l arly down on continence So even the Philistines de rive adv ant age after the notio n s of their kind from the ramsh ackle fab ric of vile a
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M O N U M E N TA L J AVA
2 34
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he athenism as this m agnificent templ e h as been c alled by one of their number an d its visitors book tells a sorry t ale of irrecl aim able v u lg arity ; the w it l aborio u sly aimed at in m any entries but widely missed p artakes altogeth e r too much (min u s the a e l ement of oadi n of the answer iven by ag e g ) young n av al offi cer to anold aunt when she asked him where in his opinion the most striking n atu ral scenery of J av a was to be found : At Petit Trou ville s aid he o nS u nday in the dry se ason The fi asan s gu ests of th at ilk are generally g m an no e arly risers an d thei r comp any is therefo re not likely to m ar the impression received of the Boro B u do o r at second sight after supper supplied by the army pensioner i n ch arge of the place an d a night s so u nd res t Looking t ranqu illity itself the v ast pile Ch arms an d soothes the he art n o t w i th standing its enormous si z e befo re the intellect scru tinising its o u tline begins to m arvel at the n u accustomed form the builder h as chosen to procl aim his ide a S ave one or two temples in lt i n ay an zstzo Bu rm ah which present a faint resembl ance nothing else canbe n amed as p roducing the s ame e ffect but then wrote Fergusson for the l and where the creed was bo rn th at inspired its fou nder it m u st be remembered th at not a single stru ctural B u ddhist building now exists within the c ave region of Western ,
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nm givnt t t h fb h nt f f m T n j n g P i k i m h b Btv t d t g n f b thin d d v ti m n t by th t ity f il i t h d n d B t v i nwill pp i t th y n g nvl f f b n m t b tt th n did hi n t p v ini l pint wh nt l n gth h f th m d i t h
1
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M O N U M E N TA L J AVA
36
CH
AP
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d pe arls is but rarely inl aid with diamonds ru bies an shown far more rarely th an even the se amless coat d then u nder conditions of excessive an at T reves d B u t notwithst anding all this pomp an ado ration ci rc u mstance who th at h as visited the D al ad a d the Bo ro B u do o r in J av a M alag awa at K andy an to prefe r the l atter tho u gh s acrilegiou s c anfail robbers h ave c arr ied off its relic le aving the dese crated shri ne to dec ay The wordy w ar waged aro u nd the etymology of o t solve the mystery the n ame Bo ro B u do o r did n of its origin ; all de riv ations th u s far s u ggested d u ns atisfactory wh ateve r are mere g u ess wo rk an an E si n be add u ced fo r Roo rd a v re asons y ga s expl an ation th at it me ans anenclosed space or Raffl e s s u rmise th at it is a co rru ption of B ara (the g re at) B u ddh a o r the l ate K ing of Si am s th at it refe rs to the (spi rit u al ) army of the B u ddh a if not to the several B u ddh as as alleged by others One of the oldest existing monuments in the isl and the a z Bo ro B u do o r h as been fo u nd ation of the c an a tt r ibuted by n ative tradition to R aden B an do o n g alre ady known from the legends connected w ith a zs P ramb an an an d Sew u who as K ing the ck an of Pengging assu med the n ame of H an d ay an in g rat Professor Kern p u ts the d ate of the s u bstru ctu re at abo u t 8 5 0 allowing seve ral ye ars for its completion ,
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i h y ll w l lightly vd inth m iddl n g d t p in Th thi k t n d t k n f th w nh h l in whi h pin nb t t d nt n d t k nf th in d ; th thin k if w nw y t l t mp d with t di t ib t f gm n li t f th d C mm n Rp t n i ti n fth D t h R y l A d m y 895 er, o f a r c
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OF
STON E S
lx
B U DO O R
B O RO
2 37
if ever it was fu lly completed fo r this temple az M e n like the c/zan do o t ne ar by the c an az Bimo on the Di eng pl ateau an d so m any mo re shows traces of the work h aving been s u spended before the decoration was q u ite finished Sc u lpt u re j u st commenced or little fu rthe r adv anced th an the bare o u tlining fou nd on the walls especi ally of the cove red b ase ; d ivers blocks of stone h alf t ransformed into orn ament an d st at u ary Dhyan i d lions very ill u st rative of the methods B u ddh as an followed at di fferent stages of the c arving lying fo rs aken on the slope an d s u mmit of a neighbo u ring hillock disclose aninterru ption of the l abo u r by some event of t remendo u s consequ ence R ather th an accept the theo ry th at the ancient temples of J av a we re left intention ally defective from religiou s iz motives v to emph asise the sense of hum an imperfection as anincentive to hu mility an d p rost ra tion befo re the divine w e m ay believe in the M erapi th at wicked old gi ant h aving asse rted himself in one of his dest ru ctive moods belching fo rth fl ames an d ashes sh aking an d b u rying the h andiwo rk o f H ind u an d B u ddhist pygmies with strictest imp arti ality Standing on the fi rst of the 2 highest terraces on the so u th side s ays anarticle i n the j ar/apart of Decembe r 5 1 90 3 one observes
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f din g t nth pl nti nth in mpl t d pi lpt f n d lyin g b t w j t d i nth b ildin gb th y did n t m p t hit t q i m n t th V n d li m ignd G ENA DA M A B d Th R i nf fl B t p di ti nI b li v t v l b hin d thi ign ifi n dn ym I t i n in g i b vt n I h ll vil N f wh F th P J H g n hi t y th f ll wi n t fth t mpl my lf p t dly i n
Acco r
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M O N U M E N TA L J AVA
2 38
CH
AP
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bulging o u t of the lowe r terraces best accou nted for by a violent e arthq u ake in a sou the rly di rection d 1 8 34 When the g alle ries were cleared in 1 8 1 4 an the volcanic ch aracter of the detrit u s which filled an them (ashes from the M erapi w rote Roo rda v d Eys in a in 1 8 5 an also fo rms the s u bst rat u m of 0 ) g the r u bbish still unremoved from the once enclosed do o t fu rnished strong gro u nds of the c an az M e n evidence in s u pport of ane ruption of the ne arest fi re mo u nt ain h aving been the c au se of the pre c i it ate flight pe rh aps the de ath in h ar ness of the p b u ilde rs Of the p rese rv ation of thei r work too in so far as finished fo r to speak again with the writer in the j ar/apart the ve ry fact of its h aving been embedded has s aved m u ch of its artistic detail ; an d the re ason why some of the sc u lpt u red p arts are d am aged to a far gre ate r extent th an others adjoining is p rob ably th at they we re exposed earlier an d longe r Deterio ration an d demolition d we athe r beg an to set in rapidly when wind an rav age the wholly u np rotected edifice when u n scr u p u lo u s collectors w ro u ght h avoc u nchecked The Boro B u do o r was neve r hidden from V iew to the point of blotting o u t its existence from memory I sh all h ave occasion to refer to n ative ch ronicles mentioning it in the eighteenth cent u ry To speak of its rediscovery by Co rneli u s is there fo re in acc u rate tho u gh we owe to th at clever Li eu ten ant of E ngineers p u rposely sent to the K ad u by Raffl es in 1 8 1 4 the first scientific s u rvey an d description with elucid ating drawings E xcept a
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ca
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stonishing deg ree if h andic apped by great weight o r solid att achment to the m ain str u ct u re bent on travelling a fon t War/ en s they sent thei r he ads alone d instr u ction in the v arying to seek recre ation an d their he ads did never retu rn w ays of the world an eithe r bec au se they were am u sing themselves too jollily away from the au sterities of the eight fold p ath or bec ause they fo u nd themselves u n avoidably detained in d u rance vile The rem aining mostly he adless stat u es are sad d the fishy acco u nt given of thei r to behold an defective condition th at n amely the B u ddhists bele ag u e red in the s anct u ary by the M u h amm adans b attling pr o ar t s et foczs d rove the enemies o ff by bo m b arding them with the Lo rd of Victo ry s noble fe at u res hewn in stone sm acks of a too ingenio u s ev asion of the disgracefu l facts The chronicles are silent on s u ch a despe rate stru ggle in th at loc ality between the conq u e ring hosts of I sl am an d the followe rs of him who ple aded pe ace d goodwill whose doct rine an love an d ex ample alike fo rb ade strife an d armed resist ance N ot th at there h as been no fighting ro u n d an d even within the walls of the Bo ro B u do o r among the J av anese eng aged in internecine w arfare an d du ring the ins u rrection of D ipo N egoro b u t the story of the u sing u p of the stat u ary in the sh ape of a
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m issiles h as no leg to stand on I n the J av a War —1 8 0 the D u tch t roops erected a tempo rary 1 82 5 ( 3 ) fort ne ar the temple b u t it is imp rob able th at c an a z m ate ri al entered into its const ru ction not bec ause the w arriors of the Government wo u ld h ave scrupled to destroy an y ancient mon u ment b u t bec au se the Bo ro B u do o r stones are exceedingly heavy an d e arthen fortific ations amply s u fficed ag ainst n ative b ands witho u t artillery Tho u gh c av al ry in p artic u l ar neve r enjoyed a high repu ta tion in respect of their rel ations to art there does not seem to be an y more substance in the confession of a oi aev an t comm ander of a sq u ad ron of h u ss ars cited by B ru mu n d th at his men u sed to t ry the d noses of temper of thei r swo rds on the e ars an the silent host of Dhyan i B u ddh as when the rebels of S e n t o t an d K iah i M aj a we re not av ail able The t ru e misfo rt u ne of the Boro B u do o r was offici al indi fference an d negligence ; an d far mo re inj u rio u s th an the fretting tooth of time o r even the merciless h and of the spoiler combined with the provoking lazssez alieny awned in pe riodic al circ u l ars from the cent ral administ ration fro m Sleepy H ollow at B at avi a was the d abbling in arch aeology of ambitio u s pe rsons who posed as dis cove rers the less their aptit u de to digest thei r des u lto ry reading the more arrog ant their cock ,
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M O N U M E N TA L J AVA
242
CH
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sureness where famo u s schol ars reserved Mei r con A little kno wledge is a d angerous thing clu sio n s an d might h ave p roved dis ast ro u s to the venerable temple in combin ati o n with one of their v aunted discoveries which established beyond doub t wh at not a fe w knew well eno u gh an d never had doubted of v iz th at there was a galle ry lower th an its lowest uncovered terrace wisely filled up to incre as e the stability of the bu ilding very p robably soon after or even befo re the erection of the upper storeys The remov al of the s u pporting l ayers of stone impaired of course the general condition of the S tructure an d t h e good news of its bein g ag ain in its former state was received by m any with a sigh of relie f This h appened in 1 8 8 5with gre at flou rish of trumpets an d e fi t de r ived ce rt ainly not of su f the only b e n ficient impo rtance to b al ance the inevit able we akening of the found ations attend ant on s u ch exc av ations con sisted in the bringing to light of rude sc arcely 1 de ciph e rab le i n script io n s or rather scr atchings an d the intelligence th at of the photog raphed sculptures in which so far no representation of connected e vents h as been recognised twenty fo u r are u n d thirteen d am aged— six wholly sm ashed finished an I n 1 90 0 new sh afts we re s u nk for new discoveries of the long an d widely kno w n an d while this pernicious dilet tan t ism was going on pse u do arch aeologists vying with professed iconocl asts wh o shou l d do most h arm to the Boro B u do o r the Government .
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B U DO O R
S T O N E S O F B ORO
1x
2 43
confined itself to a ntiqu ar i an pyro technics at the ye arly deb ates on the coloni al bu dget in P arl i ament The B o ro B u do o r being undermined an d grad u ally sc attered to the fo u r winds it w as but n atural th at the n atives following the example set by the elect even by the elect of the elect acting in this or th at offici al c apacity who used for inst ance elean az S tones for the flooring of the Government — n a s a n i a / z a th at the inh abit ants of the neighbour p g ing k ampon g s sho u ld carr y off wh at appe ared s u it able f o r their own ends an d the le ast he avy j atak a reliefs cl aimed their fi rst attent ion So things went from b ad to worse an d the most dis astrous n ye ar a verit able an n s calam ztatzs f o r the Boro B u do o r arrived with 1 8 9 6 when the l ate K ing of S i am p aid his second visit to J av a M uch interested as w as to be expected of a r u ler of a B u ddhist country in the B u ddhist mon u ments of the isl and in fact th at his M ajesty tried to put so in terested the ma ay an zstze temp l es of the K ad u to the credit a an zstzc ch u rch his ende avours of his own the lzzn y i n this kind of me n tal annex ation inspi red authorities e ager to sh are in the honours of Si amese K nigh t hood (White E leph ant Crown of S i am etc ) dis trib u ted with right roy al generosity to urge him to I f foreign visitors of little annexation in deed accou nt h ad been permitted to help themselves in “ souveni rs for a consideration to a sm all w ay to k e epers under li ngs l eft without control why shou l d foreign visitors of distinction not be served wh oles al e ? H is M aj esty Ch u lalo n g k o rnto whom no blame .
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ttaches for g ratifying his desire whe re he fo u n d D u tch fu nction aries high an d low more th a n will d ing to oblige was invited to make his choice an we m u st still th ank him for his moderation which limited the q u antity of sc u lptu re selected to eight c art lo ads : there is sc arcely a do u bt th at if he had req u ested t hem to p u ll p ar t of the B o ro B u do o r down in c onsideration of K night Comm ander o n G rand M asterships in this or th at O rder the offi ci al conscience wo u ld h ave raised no objection This c am e to p ass of cou rse after a mo re th an at fine fl the H ag u e of ministeri al u su ally ow rhetoric anent the priceless heritage H oll an d has to “ protect in the b rilli ant mementos of J av a s histo ric p ast an d the lover of ancient B u ddhist architect u re who w ants to m ake a study of its acknowledged m aste rpiece m u st now of necessity travel on to the am to get an banks of the M e yn idea of some of its most Ch aracte ristic im age ry not to speak of frag d S t at u ary removed by to u rists ments of orn ament an of commone r complexion an d dispersed he aven knows where This inst ance of the ancient mon u ments of J av a being o ffici ally despoiled to ple ase crowned he ads an d other visito rs in exalted st ations pou r le banmotif seemed so incredible th at when I cens u red it in the D u tch E ast I ndi an P ress the Dutch Press over z e alo u s in hiding coloni al eno rmities also pou r le banm otif conside red it ane asy t ask to deny w axing eloqu ently indign a nt at the den u nci ation until in reg u l ar no rm al seq u ence always observ able a
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5
i n the perenni al c ase of D u tch whitewashing versu s co l oni al boldness of speech the correctness of the statement co u ld no l onger be ass ailed new evidence accumul ating ste adi l y M r J A N Patij nfor o n e d escribing in the K r on i eé an d the Tif dse r ift v oor N eae r i an dse/z I n di e a collection displ ayed ne ar the Wat Pra K eo at B angkok an d bro u ght thith e r from J av a i n The frolicking monkeys doubt less the people o f the l arge cheek bones re pre sented on some reliefs th u s transferred prompted an enth u si astic gen u ine arch aeologist s imprec ation d non o ffi cial on the he ads of the g u ilty o ffi ci al an to adies i n asmuch as he wished them if there be anyth ing in the dogm a of K arm a which prov i de s for our sins being visited on us in lives to come th at thei r le as t punishment might be their trans form ation when c alled to new birth into apes ar i ab andoned to c e aseless sq u abbles over their k an nuts (honou rs dignities pre ferment with big s al aries cl awing one another with their fat pens ions sh arp n ails to find at l ast th at all the shel l s are empty Desisting from a pro fi tle ss discussion on th e po ssib ilit ie s o f retrib u tion in a futu re existence i cial m ind needed it requires to be stated th at the o fl several ye ars reflection in this before re aching the conc l usion th at real ly in the m atter of the conserv a tion of the Bo ro Bu do o r something more was wanted th an the periodical outbu rsts of gushing sentiment grossly disregarded in practice which are [e moy en ’
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M O N U M E N TA L J AVA
2 46
en r of D u tch coloni al politici ans v '
The inde p pendents of the coloni al Press however had at l ast the s atisfaction th at C apt ain T v anE rp of the E nginee rs was det ailed to t ake the wo rk of re sto ra tion in h and bu ilding himself a ho u se in the sh adow of the e an ai confided to his c are anxio u s to direct the necess ary l abou rs on the spot Stationed there 1 90 7 his p romotion to the rank of S ince A u g u st M ajor fo rtu n ately did not res u lt in the withdraw al of his services from the arch aeologic al field an d the clim ax of l axness with reg ard to the Bo ro B u do o r h aving been c apped in the S i amese episode brighte r d ays m ay d awn fo r th at vene rable edifice One of the roo m s of the pasan r a anrese rved g u nder the old dispens ation fo r the sto ring of det ached pieces of scu lptu re was c alled the s ample acco rding to c u rren t repo rt orders room bec au se we re t aken the re for the delive ry of s u ch still u ndet ached o rn ament an d stat u ary as might h ave st ru ck the visitors fancy Other im ages lined the p ath from the fasan g r a an to the temple among i B u ddh as a fine Ak them two Dh yan s h o b h a an d a still fine r Amit abh a an d lions y the poor rem ainde r of those which once ado rned the steps le ading to the raised level of the bu ilding whence the n ame : Aven u e of Lions Seemingly comm anded to descend from the pl aces whe re they kept g u ard as solitary sentinels an d to u nite fo r defence at the point of g re atest d anger te rrible h avoc was wro u ght in thei r ranks by the onsl au ght d one of their l arge limbed of so u veni r h u nters an ’
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be au tiful l y chise l led chiefs who himself watched the entrance with a v au ntfu l air as if procl aiming d friend alike : E t s i l n to foe an en r este gn n nm oi i la had to su ffer the ignominy of being j e ser ai eeln c aptu red an d c arried o ff to Si am — which proves s his M ajesty Chu lalo n o d t aste : it w as o g k o rn g the best specimen of anim al c arving on th at sc ale i n J av a These are no cheerful reflections when app ro aching the emine n ce skillfully converted into a whose equ al both in origin al i t y of stupa design an d cleverness of executio ncannowhe re be fo u nd Though I ndi a fu rnished its prototype the style here evolved b afl i e s on close examin a tion all comp arison The only b u ilding it can be likened to is the T aj M ah al at Agra an d only i n this single respect while differing in all othe rs th at conceived by a titanic intellect the delicate decoration sugg ests the minute precision of the j ewell e r s craft Opening an d closing a disti n ct ch apter in architectu re this admirable produ ction rises in terraces which form galleries round the hill t op enclose d by walls spaced on the ou tside by 4 32 niches fo r stat u es of the Buddh a with d aam asan a u shion lotus c aureole ) an 4 2 22 5 2 p ( ) ( 1 on the inside with rep resent ations ill u strating s acred d profane writings i n has relief ; the g alleries an of the s upers tructu r e raised on the squ are g rou nd d are bounded by 7 2 bell pl an become circul ar an sh aped e aity as containing statues of the B u ddh a a or an without either praMa orpaamasan y orn am ent wh atever The profuse deco ration of their su rrou nd ,
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ings never detracts from the powerfully expressed central idea of praise to the E n l ightened One the one who has fu lfilled his end ; the repetition of the motives m anifesting the religio u s p u rpose directs rather th an confu ses the attention of the wo rshipper in their m u ltiformity of applic ation The spi rit u al father of the B oro B u do o r must h ave been a m an of strong ment al grasp of honest m asc u line ende avour stim u l ated by a hi g hly sensi “ tive temperament his work a goodly he ap for to behold growi ng in dignity an d be au ty the closer it is observed a re alisation of the s u blimest aspi rations of Buddhis t J av a wil l perpet u a te also as long as it can endu re the memory of his own s u perior mind The constr u ctive ability of this gifted b u ilder was no less wonderfu l th an his m aste ry of det ail in aid of his m ain intent A clever system of d rain age attests to the fo resigh t of his workm an ship ; b u t the gutters rem aining filled up an d the gargoyles (open mo u thed n ag as ) choked a fter the excav ation of the g alleries in 1 8 1 4 an d 1 8 34 witho u t an y one thinking of cle arin g them too the w ater had to flow o ff as best it could in the to rrenti al rains of successive west monsoons filtering th ro u gh the fissures between the stones passi n g down to the fo u ndations an d adding in oo z ing ou t to the c auses of decay by washi ng the sup d gr avel aw ay po rting l ayers o f e arth an The d p ass ageways to the different te rr aces st ai rc ases an an d g alleries are constr u cted with the acc u rate ,
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2 49
sense of right proportion which disting u ishes the n atives of the isl and u p to this day an d thei r n ag a an d é ata fn ak a a o r n ament belongs to the most im press ive p art of the gracefu l decoration I n o u r asce n t fro m lower to h ig h e r plan e s of u nde rst anding incre asing in pe rception of the mysteries of life an d d e ath the B an aspati shows the ro ad the H indu J av anese Gorgon s he ad as H o rsfi e ld c alled it appropri ated by B u ddhist architectu re fi g u ratin g the te rrors of e rro r it faces w hile bu dding fo rth in the promise of fu rthe r g u id ance for whoso sh all le ave the world s del u sions a loved wife a yo u ng bo r n son to seek t he t ru th in pu rs u anc e of the B u ddh a s o rdin ance no intimid ation which th re atens with the p ains of hell all who dare to disobey the dict ates of p riestly ambition b u t anass u rance of be atitu de g ained by self pu rifi cat io n The st air c ases o f the s u pe rstru ct u re correspond with the fo u r app ro aches le ading u p the hillock to the temple y ard ; in the co u rse of the exc av ations to facilit ate the wo rk of resto ration u nde rt ake one of them v ery much o u t of rep ai r has been l aid bare The reconstru ction of the lower princip al stairc ase whose origin al position h as now been d e termined will res u lt it is hoped in the remov al of th e u nsightly flight of u neven steps m asq u erading as the m ain ent rance at the co r ner opposite the perh aps to provide one worthy an d an n a a s a ; p g of S ite an d b u i l ding the Government will not h aggle over the modest su m requ ired fo r the t e erection of the monumental g ate whose rem ains
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we re discove red adjoining the bal u strade of the sp acio u s elev ated pl atform On ente ring the g alleries establishing contact with this symmetric al embodiment O f highly spi ritu the st rongly knit l angu age of alised tho u ght in chiselled stone to mo u nt to the state of the perfect disciple spu rred by the fig u red evol u tion of the fou r degrees of Dhyan a which le ad to s u p reme h appiness the pilg rim m u st h ave experienced as we do the sens ation of physic al well being imparted by the splendo u r of n atu re w rapping h u m an longings in s u nshine an d the delicio u s odo u r exh aled by mothe r e arth The luxu riou s emotion inc re ases d among the se rene despite ni rv anic ch astening an i m ages of the higher te rraces who c anrem ain u n moved in contemp l ation of the ancient temple lifting itS dag o b to the bl u e he aven of its ho ary w alls to u ched by the golden light qu ive ring in desire of s acred comm u nion ! No r do we ce ase to m arvel when tu rning from the general ide a of u nivers al Solid arity en u nci ated in an i rrep roach able arch ite c tu ral form to the exposito ry details of decoration The o rn ament accommod ates itself with am az ing facility to the ch aracte ristic tendencies of the g ro u nd pl an neve r pe rve rting the central p u rpose which domin ates in a most felicito u s combin ation of the two principles sep arately developed for weste rnends in the cl assic an d gothic styles : the hori z ont al exp ansion to allo w thinking sp ace to d the mystic pointing u pw ard to s atisfy the brain an the cravings of the he art B oth found applic ation .
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design of the builder A fe r vent im agin ation m ay revel i nmiles of b as reliefs without s u rfeit the d a pro s al u tary restraint of a sober outline an portion al dispositio of th e compon ent p arts bein g such th at the eye neve r gets tired or the fac u lty of pe rception cloyed Fergusson poi ti g to the identity of wo rkmen d det ails of an d workm anship in the sculpture an d at Aj u nt a orn amentation at the B oro B u do o r an ave ater c aves at c the l N ssick a ( S alsette K o n d other pl aces in do ty Mo n tpe z ir an th at n comp u tes th at at the fo rmer e 1 g hb 0 u rho o d 0 0 0 feet almost the deco ration extends t o ne arly 5 d as there are sc u lptures on anE nglish mile an both fac es we h ave nearly line al feet of reliefs They numbered 2 1 4 1 in all co u nting wh at 1 5 d am aged an d altogethe r lost but omittin g the deco ration o f the orn ament al niches : on the lowest wall 40 8 inthe upper an d 1 60 in the lowe r tier outsi de 568 inside on the second wall 2 40 ou tside an d 1 9 2 in side ; on the thi rd w all 1 0 8 o u tside an d 1 6 5 inside ; on the fourth w all 88 ou tside an d 1 40 inside ; on the fifth w all 7 2 inside Regarding their noble qu alities of style an tive v al u e as d decor a a co m po n en t o f the g eneral project the opinion of 1 a writer i n the Q uar ter ly R ev ie w m ay be q u oted who discu sses the B oro B u do Or s straight li es its untr oubled sp aces of fl at stone its mou ldings of cl assic simplici ty its int ric ate an d el ab orate b and s of ornament he l d in pl ace b y the nice choice o f R G E F nO i n t lA t J n y 9 .
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M O N U M E N TA L J AVA
54
s u p reme excellence the fig u ration of his prog ress being l argely infl u enced by ancient H ind u folk lo re I f Ru skin co mp ared S t M ark s at Venice so bo u nd with a ptly with a v ast ill u min ated miss al S t u dded with po r al ab aster inste ad of parc h ment d w r itten within phy ry pill ars inste ad o f jewels an d gold in the d withou t in lette rs of en amel an an Bo ro B u do o r a s ac red book of volc anic stone the life of the B u ddh a befo re an d afte r he bec ame a son of m an an d m an s s avio u r lies O pened befo re u s the flowe ry e arth an d the shining he aven are its binding d en amels the letters S urya the su nhimself gilds an the im ages which i nthei r sc u lpt u red frame not too d not too r ich for a setting b u t deeply cu t an precisely adequ ate tell to all c re atu res the sto ry of wisdom an d elev ation O f spi rit The ill u st ration of t h e L ati ta Vi star a occ u pies as alre ady mentioned the u pper tie r O f the inne r w all of the first open gallery W alking rou nd in the prope r direction i e k eeping the dag o b to the right while moving with the su nwe h ave first a few i n t rod u ctory scenes le ading u p to the B u ddh a s advent an d prep aring u s for the mystic te achings of an im age ry which d n at u rally between the flowing expands S imply an d S pe aks to the he art lines of h armonio u s o rn ament an as does the so u nd of r u n ing w ate r o r the so u ghing of the wind in the t ree tops I mmedi ately afte r his birth ri sing from th e wh ite lotu s fl o w e r which h as ro m the e arth at the pl ace to u ched by his s ru n f p g fee t S iddh arth a in token of his power ove r the several wo rlds p aces seven steps to e ach of the ,
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56
CR
AP
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The statu es watching the ascent of the seeker o t p u rification second the impu lse received from the reliefs by their tranq u il compos u re th at is i n so far as they rem ained at thei r st ations f o r their r anks are s adly thinned Aspiring to the holiness fig u red in the im ages of the highe r te rraces to the priceless boon of the N i rv an a as fin al blessing the Dhyan i B u ddh as s u nk in meditation girding themselves with virt u e longing fo r the ecst asies vo u chs afed to the Adi B u ddh a s meditation reflect the five s alient fe at u res of his u nde rstanding as indic ated by thei r gestures Divided into three or twice three groups acco rding to the position of their h ands an d in intim ate rel ationship with their B o dhisat v as Vaj ,
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M O N U M E N TA L J AVA
58
CR
AP
.
expect ation we arrive at the dag o b the sh rine of sh rines the temple s co ronet glittering in the bright glow of day This is the reliq u ary proper the centre into which the holiness of the h allowed b u ilding conve rges I t rises simil ar to the sm alle r c u pol as b u t pe rpendic u l ar to a height of seve ral feet from a s u bst ru ct u re in the g u ise of a lotu s c u shion ; it was also closed ro u nd abo u t witho u t ar as c an be concl u ded from its an ape rt u re so f y present state for a po rtion of i t h as t u mbled do wn an d the b ase of the c rowning pinn acle re ached by ill m atched rickety steps a recent o u t rageo u sly discord ant addition serves fo r a bench the whole h aving abo u t 2 5 feet a bove the topmost terrace been t ransfo rmed into a c ru de belvede re en abling visito rs to enjoy the m agnificent v iew The interior sp ace seems o rigin ally to h ave been divided into an d a lower ch ambe r ; the re is nothing u ppe r an dese rving mention in the m atte r O f deco ration s ave an inscription to remind poste r ity of the l ate K ing of Si am s visit in the dis astro u s ye ar 1 8 9 6— a delicio u s memo ri al at the s ame time of O ffici al v and alism an d servility The golden lette rs affect on e u nple as antly in the spoli ated s anct u m whose ru ino u s c o ndition d ates from a p revio u s c all some sixty o r seventy ye ars ag o permitted if not e n co u rag e d by p revio u s au tho rities when looting pse u do arch aeologists b roke into it an d c arried o ff the relic which consisted ass u ming the c redibility of loc al reports regarding thei r dis appointment in a small qu antity of ashy substance enclosed in a ,
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2 60
CR
AP
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terrifying the ch ild ren of d arkness dwelle rs in p assion an d sin perv ading all c re ation with his an a i rv s aintliness the one o f the Paran whose essence flowers in the be au ty of the B oro B u do o r And the M oslim n ative worships him as the god of his ancesto rs c au ght in stone ; sme ars him with d pe rfo rms acts of s ac rifice befo re him in oor e an d spite of the Book fu lmin ating ag ainst idol aters an of the almost contemptu o u s famili arity intim ated by the othe rwise ve ry app ropri ate nickn ame bestowed on this hete rodox deity n amely r ec o éeleg which me ans st atu e in the m u d The w o rk of restoration started with exc av ations an d the remov al of he aps of acc u m u l ated deb ris h as led to important discove ries also in rel ation to the dag o b Among sh attered n ag a g argoyles an te fi x e s c arved detail of every desc ription fragments h ave been fou nd of a t riple pay oon g anorn ament in the fo rm of a s u nsh ade which c apped it ; of a st at u ette s u pposed to h ave ado rn ed its second storey the u pper comp artment of the cell a To q u ote from 1 an M ajo r v E rp s l ast p u blished report the exc av a tions shed new light on the design of some mino r p arts of the b u ilding the decoration e g of the lowest th ree stai rc ases on e ach of the fo u r sides ; notwithst anding the existing drawings the é ala maé ar a motive seems to h ave entered into the o rn ament of the ent rance g ate in the princip al o u te r wall ; the design of the b al u str ade which enclosed ,
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M O N U M E N TA L J AVA
2 62
Si am s visit in 1 8 9 6 s tood ne ar the pasan g r ah an d seemingly he arten facing a d am aged Amit abh a an ing the diminishing ranks of the lions mo u nting g u ard I t had been brou ght thither from a pl ace d was known as Topog abou t a mile distant an d with ce rtainly a po rtrait stat u e be au tifu lly cu t an its ext rao rdin arily cleve r fe at u res a r are w o r k of art The story goes th at like B u sk e t u s the architect aldu s of the D u omo at Pis a h is de arest (with Rain ) wish was to h ave his rem ains c arried to rest u nde r the stones of the edifice he h ad raised to the hono u r d re of the u nseen ; th at b affled in his hopes an i nc arn ated after his de ath bec au se of some v e ni al Of fence which m ade him fail in att aining the N i rv an a too he fashioned this e ffigy to be set u p at anticip ating an the ent rance of his mag n u m o us p ide a of the eq u ally n ameless artist w h o pu t the By z antine st amp on S anM arco in Venice I t is an addition al p roof of the l ate K ing Ch u lalo n s g k o rn discrimin ation in favo u r O f the ve ry best th at m aking the pe rmitted Choice his M ajesty incl u ded dag i b u t 0 ! the o ffi ci al c ringing an K i ab i O o n d the little piety shown to the memo ry of the ill u st rio u s labo u rer who wro u ght this wonderfu l mon u ment On the hillock of Topog the dew ag oon s p rimi g tive home two w ash b asins in the fo rm o fy on i s one of them of coloss al dimensio n s an d resting on a cro u ched figure testify to the wo rship of S iv a s sahti the fem ale principle of life personified in the M ah adev a s Devi H ind u motives in the o rn ament of the Boro B u do o r avou ch sync retism h aving ’
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i nfl u enced the highest expression of B u ddhism ' itself : there is a fou r armed im age with paamasan a an d fr ahh a which c arrying a B u ddh a in its m ahu ta m ay hint at Vishn u s ninth av ata r ; the re is a fo u r armed fig u re se ated on a throne s u ppo rted by Siv a s v ah an a the b u ll ; there is a goddess c rowned with five tr i shu las ; etc All this ill u strates ag ain n ative tolerance i m atte rs of religion as in othe r respects a res u lt of the ancient h abit of the J av anese in p artic u l ar to meet widely diffe rent races an d civili s at io n s h alf w a y which h as prese rved them from the n arrow mindedness conseq u ent on isol ation as obse rved by a schol ar who knows them Well an d whose st u dy of speci al s u bjects h as in nowise im p aired his breadth o f v isio n The modific ation of this e asy going temperament in contact with weste rn greed o ffers ab u nd ant food for tho u ght when we return to the cool c ave of refu ge from passion whe re d the r echo be leg symbolises deep contemplation an medit ation te rmin ating in absorption of self by p articipation of the S pi rit of the U nive rse u nder the 1 8 6 a nS i am : gau dy memori al tablet K on in v 9 g which in its gl aring incong ru ity symbolises the inve rted p rocess The feeling of annoy ance it N d l n n2 I lam P f NJ H D C SN w itt nth in f m ti n h d m th t th h b léq Sin thi w in th t m pl m wh b nt k n t f it h l t giv it pl h nt ti nf th g n d wh i t will b p nt inp ti nwhi h th ibl if l ft i ni t iginl t ti n Th il g d g b w ld h v m d imp th d nd t di pp n f th t if i t im pli t in t n m y b n d d t k p liv th m m y f th di t y l vi it t bl t i n t n n d th d g b h w th pp t 8 Th ill t ti n pp it p g ft th i t ti n th pin in g b n nt t d n l f th d g b h v f m with it wn in g nm n ft wa d t k nw y b t thi w t t it iginl n gmn n t in ty -
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M O N U M E N TA L J AVA
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CR
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prod u ces soon p asses when the mind begins to exp and with admi ration of the scene of c alm splen dour beheld from the dag o b cont aining the pollen d h armonies of the lot u s of the law The h u es an of evening dispose to a q u ietu de nowhe re else expe rienced or enjoyed in t h at me as u re The only sou nd he ard is a faint h u mming of insects circling the pinn acles of the chai ty as which divide the panoram a of the pl ain below into views of sep arate inte rest an d be auty bo u nded by the gracefu l ou tline d the distant hills d of the terraces an Rice fi e lds an alm ro v s st retch as f r as the eye c an re ch with e a a p g vill ages between sheltered by their o rch ards e arth s t apest ry emb roidered in all g rad ations of g reen from th at of the sprou ting bi hi t fi aa i of the young pl antations to th at of the thick foli age of centen ari an h an ar i s The sh adow of the temple kissing the drowsy eyelids of the K ad u lengthens tow ards the M e rapi ove r whose c rate r gilt by the setting su n h angs a clou d of d ark smoke which d rifts slowly in the direction of the M e rb abu while the S o o m b in g to the no rthe ast looks tranquilly on The darkness u she red by the smoke of the ill tempered old fi re mou nt ain mingling with the pink an d p u rple of the western sky sp re ads ove r the l and envelops forests an d gardens in g ray h u shing all th at b re athes to S leep One p arting smile of the s u n s gl adness an d night descends in her s able robes N othing sti rs ; the toils of day are fo rgotten in wholesome repose ; it is the ho u r of Amitabh a ru le r of the region of d spiritu al father of the present world s s u nset an ,
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I I who c aptured him an d put him in ani ron c age without however killing him b e c ause the omens were unfavou rable K i Mas D an a h ad d appointed hupatzs an m any follow ers an d man tr i s K i Y ag awin ata bufati of M ataram m arched ag ainst him but was de f e ated an d fled to K artasu ra acq u a inti n g his M ajesty with what had h appened The re u pon P angeran Prin g g alaya was sent to su p press K i Mas D an a s revolt with instructions to c apture him alive bec au se his M ajesty had m ade a vow th at he would exhibit him publicly as an exa mple to the inh abitants of K artas u ra an d let 2 him be r ampohh ea with needles P angeran Pring d with him h alf of the hupati s gal ay a dep arted an of K artas u ra When he arrived at E nt a E nt a the b attle beg an M any rebels were killed K i M as D an a fled to the mo u ntain Boro B u do o r H e w as s u rro u nded by the troops of P angeran Prin gg alaya an d m ade a prisoner Then they brought him to his M aj esty at K artashra who ordered all the i nh abitants of the town to assembl e in the aloon aloane ach of them with a needle I t l asted th ree d ays before all the inh abitants of K artasu ra h ad had their turn When he was de ad his he ad was Th in ti n h d d by R d n S y k m b k t in 7 3 n d din g t l tt f m th G v n G n l th ninf nti nt B t vi t t hi J vn H t p g v g d d al n t nt h m th H n bl S v bl H vin g gai nd hi lib ty h b ll d gaint T g l wa ft d b pt d n m n ght t B t v i wh n th D t h th iti f G d H p ag t t th C p i hm n bly t th q t n t ban t hi m in gk Rat I V Cf J K J D E J NG E D Oph m t w nh t N d fM n i ii l n t h G ag v / w vl v tt k n wdin g nhim g n lly with l n Th T mp h i t th y d ag in t f ght n in q aft mp h h n g f tig f m d by w fm nwith pik i till f v it m m n t Rat
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M O N U M E N TA L J AVA
2 68
n d exhibited
fa cu t o f
on a pole After the e x e cu tion of K i M as D an a the news w as received th at his fathe r inlaw K i Gedeh Pasu k ilanhad also revolted H is M ajesty o rdered the repression of th at revolt too K i Gedeh Pasu k ilan w as de fe ated an d killed Dr B r andes observing th at the chan Boro ai B u do o r m u st h ave been me ant bec au se the re is no othe r pl ace known of the s ame n ame an d its stra te g ical v al u e given ancient modes of w arfare is obviou s pu ts the d ate of its investment by P angeran Prin g g alaya to sei z e K i M as D an a at 1 7 0 9 o r 1 7 1 0 A n ative reference to the B o ro B u do o r of h alf a century l ater is fo u nd in a J av anese m an u script u sed by P rofessor C Po e n s e nfor a p aper on M angku B u mi first S o o ltanof J ogj ak arta The cond u ct of the P angeran Adipati son of th at S o o ltang rieved his fathe r very m u ch Besides his ignorance in lite rary m atters he w as pro u d an d arrog ant ; he disd ained his fathe r s a dvice an d associ ated with the women of the toll g ate which c au sed all sorts of annoya nce H e went also to the Boro B u do o r to see the thous and statu es n o t w i th st anding anold prediction that misfort u ne wou ld befall the p rince who beheld those im ages for one of them represented a satry a (a noble knight) imp risoned in a c age ; b u t it w as the Prince s fate th at he wished to see the st atue of the satrya H aving gratified his desi re he rem ained in the .
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M O N U M E N TA L J AVA
70
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AP
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of the S an g B imo or K aki B imo so c alled a st atu e of the B u ddh a promoted o r degraded by pop u l ar o s s u pe rstition to the rank of a P and aw a A rj u n chiv al ro u s b rother se ated in the ch ai ty a of the d south of the lowest ci rc u l ar te rrace next to an e aste rn stai rc ase S till vene rated by the n atives by d by more women an the Chinese comm u nity an d men of E u rope an extraction th an are willing to confess it B imo o r We rg o do ro to u se the n ame given to him in the way an s when they extol g lahon his yo u thfu l exploits is the archetype of the satry a the p attern of ancest ral knighthood M ost prob ably it w as S ang B imo who conform ably to the i laila o r a ncient p rediction exec u ted the dec ree of fate on P ange ran Adip ati H am an a ara Dis gk u n g regarding the ex ample set by the invisible power which resides in the Bo ro B u do o r a l ater Crown P rince of J ogj ak a rt a visited th at temple in 1 90 0 witho u t so far coming to g rief H as then the i laila u nde r speci al conside ration lost its e ffi c acy ? We m u st pres u me so notwithstanding th at the occ u lt fo rces identified with S ang B imo an d other st atu es of the ancient fane are affi rmed still to work mi racles in plenty when propiti ated by adeq u ate s acrifice The greatest miracle of all is the el ation of m an s tho u ght by the irresistible ch arm which goes o u t from it A night with the Bo ro B u do o r is a night of pu rific ation when Amitabh a offe rs the lotu s of d the gift is accepted ; when the the good law an wonderful edifice rising to the star sp angled S k y -
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A SCEND I N G
TO TH E DA GOB O F T H E B OR O B
( Cephas Sr ) .
UDOCK
M O N U M E N TA L J AVA
27 2
CR
AP
.
pretentious artifi ce s displ aying a deplo rable l ack of the conceptive faculty into the bargain Procl aim ing the doctrine gloriou s in veracity of thou ght est an d u ttera nce the Bo ro B u do o r typifies ho n endeavo u r an d sincerity of p u rpose E ntering the fi rst of the po rches th rough which d te rraces from four sides the s u ccessive g alleries an are re ached we come u nder the spell of the r apt u re symbolised by those v au lted st ai rc ases le ading u p w ard from re ason to faith constru cted it seems to “ m atch the evident po rtals of the perfect state compos u re kindness modesty self knowledge The B an shelte rs him aspat i t e rrifi e r of the evil S pi r its who proceeds on the p ath they indic ate in clemency an d ch arity As we p ass on co n fi d in g i n his pro te c tion the sc u lptu red w alls g le am softly imp regn ated by the s u n s light embedded in the stones an d the ge rm of t ru th tre as u red in the dag o b radi ates down in l u minou s s u bst anti ation of the wo rd m aking the invisible visible by degrees The air h angs heavy an d w arm in the galleries an d throbs with the emotion excited by the l u stro u s reliefs which pictu re the life of the B u ddh a A fl u sh of indesc ribable splendo u r cle ar exh al ation of his v irtue an d holines s lifts veil after veil from the bliss this initi ation portends The transp arent atmosphere lends new signific ance to the gestu res of the Dh yan i B u ddh as se ated o u thei r lot u s c u shions as stars h alf quenched in golden mist while we feel more th an see the se rene c almness of thei r fe atu res still wrapped in obscurity Their contempl ation is the beginning of ,
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OF
B U DOO R
B O RO
2
73
the highest their ecstasy pierces ete rnity opens the regions of infinite intelligence complete self efface ment absol u te nothingness Too m u ch absorbed i n abstract cogitation to occupy themselves with m atte rs Of m u nd ane interest they leave the gove rn ment of the c re ated worlds to thei r spi ritu al sons an d Pad m apan i is the M ah asat v a on whom o u r a e g O u t topping hum an knowledge depends they te ach the me aning of the u nive rse : the Buddh a of the E ast dre aming his d reams as the su nrises the B u ddh a of the So u th blessing the day the B u ddh a of the West u nfolding the secret of the all spi rit as the s u nsets the B u dd ha of the N o rth pointing the w ay fro m d ar kness to light the B u ddh a of the Z enith lifting his h ands to t u rn the wheel of the law The st atu es smile be atitu de in h appiness at losing the conscio u sness of existence when they will be worthy of the N irv an a the sol u tion of life in non being de ath which discl aims res u rrection in an y form an a irv And the highest att ain able blessing the Paran the N i rv an a Absol u te is signified in the im age of the central dag o b : however inte rpreted as solit ary indweller of the sh rine of shrines bu ilt ove r the rem ains of the flesh which embodied the wo rd the d to be T ath ag ata the self s u bsisting p receded an succeeded in fu llness of time it figu res the imm an ence in bodily impe rfection of the ene rgy for good which s anctified Ayu sh m at Gau tam a who modified his c arn ality by domin ating his senses ; who when q u estioned by his first disciples co u ld decl are th at he d w as the expected te acher of l u cid perception an ,
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M O N U M E N TA L J AVA
74
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P
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replete comprehension the discerning monitor the destroye r of e rror the spotless co u nsello r impelled d m ake them to rele ase them from the bonds of sin an dese rve the m an ifest favo u r of annihil ation The rudely interru pted sleep of the r echo helet form u l ated intention ally or not a confession of faith in the reward of righteo u sness by complete dissol u tion cess ation of contin u ance etern al rest u n dist u rbed by gods o r men by feeling or thou ght The pilg rim to the Boro B u do o r longing fo r the ar ahatshi p accomplished in the science of condu ct ing himself m u st h ave hesit ated befo re ascending to the highest te rrace an d seeking di rect comm u nion with the p u re spirit of the son of vi rt u e bo rn of a wom an t ru ly b u t whose mother died seven d ays after his bi rth in token of his eminence the vener able one whose mo ral st rength st ands p ar amo u nt ove rcometh even the inn ate fear of extinction The essence of the T ri ratn a lies he re within the g rasp of the e arnest inquirer the preciou s pe arl whose l u stre div u lges the p rinciple of c au s ation the beginning an d the end of all things the p rim ary so u rce of wh at d sh all be is an H ow to obt ain it ? By offe rings to the symbolic stone N ot so but by good works an d s e lf examin ation which excels p raye r an d m akes an pl ace a B o dh im an da a se at of intelligence y The B u ddh a was a m anno god s u rpassing the limits of hum anity who has to be p ropiti ated by ado ration Whoso wishes the Resc u e r s s aving grace S hou ld remembe r the S to ry of U pag o o pta an d ad att a an the courtes an Vasav d ask : H as my hou r ,
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M O N U M E N TA L J AVA
76
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AP
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fasting a d self torture b u t by persevering in the eight fold p ath of right views right aspirations right speech right beh aviou r right search of susten ance right e ffort right mindfulness of our fellow cre ature s right ex u ltation shou ld ward o ff the dire punishment of remorse which in well b al anced spirits c annot dwe ll S elf restraint u prightness control of the organs of sense m akes the fell fire of the three deadl y sins—sensuality ill will an d moral sluggish ness —die out in the heart by a p roper arrangement of the pre ciou s vestments the six cardin al virtu es ch arity cle anness patience cou rage cont emplative sympathy with all creation an d discrimin ation of good an This le ads to perfection adv ance d evil ment to the highest of t he fo u r sublime conditions the B rahm a Vih aras on which Buddhism improved by m aking equ animity with regard to one s own joys an d sorrows the test of progress on the ro ad which le ads to bliss in extermin ation of p ain Loosen the sh ackles of worldly existence by constant applic ation to esc ape from the fat al thraldom imposed by birth an d rebirth ! Life is contin u ed misery ; no s alva tion from the distress c au sed by p assion an d sin is possible ex cept by cess ation of self by merg in g individu al in u nive rs al v ac ancy mounting the four steps of the Dhyan a in contempl ative evolution of the N irv ana refining perception an d specul ation to total imp assibility exting u ishing re ason itse l f in etern al voidness where we h ave nothing to fe ar an d othing to hope for t aking refu ge in non existence the only conceiv able verity -
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M O N U M E N TA L J A VA
8
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life of all creatures I nsisting on m an s obligations to his fellow men the B u ddh a anticip ated by six centu ries the prece pt : Thou sh alt love thy neighbour d I f he did not m atch it with t he fi rst an as thysel f greater comm andment of the Christi an dispens ation his atheism to quote H u nter was a philosophical tenet which so far from we akeni n g the s anctions of right an d wrong gave them new strength from the doctrine of K arm a or the metempsychosis of ch aracter Te achi ng th at sin sorrow an d deliver in this li fe in all previous ance the state of a m an an d all future live s is the inevit able result of his own acts the B u ddh a applied the inexorable law of c au se an d effect to the so u l Wh at we sow we must reap All spi rits are ensl aved which serve things evil as redemption flowe rs from straight vision straight thought straight exertio ni n tru thfu l e n de av our The lesson might be profitably taken to he art in fu rtherance of a n ation s K arm a by statesmen who h ave no expl an ation for the u n satis facto ry condition o f dependencies oversea but ev asive oratory backed by a dexterous sh u ffling of cooked coloni al repo r ts an d doctored coloni al statistics when the sinister farce of the coloni al budget is on the boards And each of us howeve r limited his sphere finds his o wnopportunities for individu al transition to a higher state like G au tam a we meet every day the poor an d needy the old an d decrepit in want of assistance the prost rate sufferer in agony of de ath And like G au t am a e ach one who s trives for .
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O F B O RO
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2
79
enfranchisement must h ave his struggle with M ara the Prince of D arkness After the first w atch on the Boro B u do o r night thickens an d covers the e arth as a pall ; the wanstars glimmer we akly shining on the misery of deficient fulfilment of i ntention Reflecting on o u r errors of commission an d omission seeing o u r deeds l aid b are an d their d Wherefore dejection m asters h Ope tho u gh why an ste adfast determin ation might take anexample at the B u ddh a wrestling with the E nemy who o ffered h im the kingdom of the four worlds ; tho u gh w e know th at the giv ing or withholding of the fifth the world of glory is beyond the E nemy s power d t remble W e see the contest t e en acted before us an Appe ar ing bodily horrible to behold M ara the d sin Papiyanthe god of c arn al love p assion an ve ry vicio u s besets the inc arn ate word surrou nded by his demons of ever ch anging gruesome aspect d lolling b arking dogs with eno rmou s fangs an tongues roaring tige rs with sh arp murderou s cl aws d bloodshot eyes ; hissing serpents d arting for an w ard to strike an While we d cru sh their prey ali ant fan cy the contest raging hottest round v p atience personified in the im age of the dag o b the d lower niches m aimed st atues of the ck azty as an j oin i n the dire battle as the he adless spirits th at rode upon the tempest when E vil ass ailed the elect s d seeing t he purity Papiyanc annot prev ail an fu tility of violence he h as recourse to his d au ghte rs d provoke to the Winsome apsam s who d ance an l ascivious commerce by their seductive arts Bu t they ,
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2 80
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AP
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m ake no more impression th an their bru tish brothers d in spite of themselves they are compelled to an p raise the fo rtitu de of a virt u e wh ich w ill not s u cc u mb even when one of them ass u mes the sh ape of a beloved yo u thfu l spou se The b affl ed apsam s dissolve in floating v apo u r an d Papiyanin desp ai r t races fl aming ch aracters on the dome of the dag o b with h is l ast arrow : My empi re is ended The stars res u me their brightness an d a sense of coming light pervades the gloom of despondency I t is borne tow ard u s in the flower tendered by Ch and ra the deity of the ch aste radi ance proceeding from the conq u e ror s crest Lo his c rown is t ransfe rred d climbing slowly the c u sped moon to the sky an d fu t u re wo rlds with invests the mou lde rs of p ast an h alos of liq u id silve r This is the time the stilly ho u r be fo re d awn the l ast watch befo re morning the chosen moment of the B u ddh a s att ainment to the s u mmit of the triple science wherein the s u pern at u ral be au ty of the Boro B u do o r cle ansed an d reconsec rated after the white m an s p rofan ation by the b u rning fi re of d the mellow to u ch of night helps u s to day an penetrate the me aning of his promise H e who holds fast to the law an d discipline an d faints not he sh all c ross the oce an of life an end of d m ake an sorrow The blitheness of spirit which consists bec au se of th at whe reby the su nriseth an d setteth an d the moon waxeth an d w an e t h in disc arding the ignorance engendered by conceding to this world a re ality it does not possess reg arding as const ant ,
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SO U L
O F B O RO
B U DOO R
281
th at which ch anges with every wind th at blows the exalt ation bo r n from silent contempl ation loses its v agueness in the m anifestation of the godhead in ou rselves For contempl ation becomes seeded an d blooms in the tri ad of medit ation the recognition of the entities of time an d sp ace an d connecting thou ght as the unity of u nive rs al rel ation ship The D h y an i B u ddh as wrapped in the sh adows from which dawn will deliver them seek to comp rehend an d o u r ment ality exp anding with thei rs looking down u pon the g ray w aves of mist th at bre ak on the old temple as on a rock of ages in a stormy se a we feel the dag o b rise to meet the moonbeams an d so ar to u n u tter able delight Presently the fi rst s mile of day s al u tes an d aw akens mother e arth ; a m u rm u r of contentment thrills the air in h armony of praise the dimming q u ivering stars the crimson d az u re pe rspective mo u ntain tops the p u rple an between all creation combi nes in a song of th anksgiving The mystic pl anet ary m u sic the singing together of e arth an d he aven in melody of colo u r an d so u nd welcomes the b right morning d he art of gold bewrays D awn with blushing face an the glory of her etern al abode to the wo rld of m an sending her o u triders befo re the Asvins the lords of l u stre whose shining armo u r forged of the s u n s rays ill u mines the pe arly sky with daz z ling sp l endo u r They roll the billowy v apo u rs together “ like wool of divers d ch ase them u p the hill side an e of the life ch anging colo u rs c arded th at the e v giver m ay rest on the pl ain whe re the palm g roves ,
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M O N U M E N TA L J A V A
2 82
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P
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ise in the h az y dew as emerald isl ands in an d the S o o m b in The M erb abu an O p alescent l ake g e ck e d are still h alf in d arkness when the M er api fl with o range an d violet bl az es in reflection of aer i al e ffu lgence soon to commingle the smoke of its fiery c rater with the clou ds mou nting its slopes The fi re mo u nt ains keep a good w atch on the g arden of a J av a th anwhich J at awan the famo u s ple as ance where the B u ddh a enou nced the s u bst ance of his te achings p reserved in the S u t ras c annot h ave been d the M e rapi in p artic u l ar m akes more delicio u s an the l and pass u nde r the rod when s ac red coven ants are b roken The he art too is ill u min ated as tho u ghts take their hues from the skies knowledge cle aring u p the an archy of conflicting c reeds which exe rcised an d exe rcise thei r sw ay over J av a B rahm anic te rrorism an d B u ddhist despondency M oslim fan aticism an d Ch risti an dissensions v anish befo re her u n so h ist i p c ate d child ren s delight in life f s a ke as o r its o w n the mo rning dew befo re the w armth of the su n Twining memo ries of the j amcm é u aa with c u rrent h appenings they t ake their spi ritu al no u rishment d the symbolic form of their directly from n at u re an n atu ral religion from eve rywhe re Witho u t troubling abo u t e ru dite dissertations reg arding the legend of the Buddh a as the development of anancient sol ar myth o r B u ddhism as a development of the S ankhy a system of K apil a witho u t going into abst ru se spec u l ations anent the evol u tion of the u nive rse from primordi al m atte r they are in const ant inter r
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AP
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the re is promise in the joy of day promise of a sl aking of the thi rst for freedom anabatement of the fever engendered by do u bt of enfranchisement I f hope end u res in the b attle with alw ays deferred darkness p atient fo rtit u de will lead to victory I t d bl u nted the we apons b au lked the powe r of M ara an d turned of the demons who ass ailed the B u ddh a an missiles which did not h arm him b u t aside the ch anged into flowers before his feet into garl ands s u spended ove r his head When knowledge sh all cove r the wo rld at the advent of Vish v apan i deceit an d av arice will ce ase tormenting an d gl ad content will dwell in the n e rz fo r eve r fawn g So be it ! ,
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G LOS SA R Y
2
93
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