APRIL 2014
Hemispheres
THREE PERFECT DAYS: FINGER LAKES • TECH SPECIAL • THE HEMI Q&A WITH ROBERT DE NIRO & JANE ROSENTHAL
THE HEMI Q&A: ROBERT DE NIRO & JANE ROSENTHAL ON THE TRIBECA FILM FESTIVAL ESCAPE FROM L.A. TAKING PART IN A SIMULATED CITYWIDE MANHUNT THE RIGHT CALL? MLB EXPANDS INSTANT REPLAY
THREE PERFECT DAYS
FINGER LAKES
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The feeling of genuine delight SAN FRANCISCO Shreve & Co
BERLIN KaDeWe • Hotel Adlon
HONG KONG ifc mall • Harbour City
LONDON: Boodles • BEIJING: China World Mall, Phase 3 • DUSSELDORF: Königsallee 60 • LUXEMBOURG: 19 Grand Rue ZURICH: Beyer • VIENNA: Am Graben 14 • TOKYO: Mikimoto • Wellendorff, tel. (+49) 7231 – 2840 128 www.wellendorff.com
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traveler review
BEST KEPT SECRET patricia y, New York
Flamenco Beach, Culebra
If you only stay in San Juan during your time in PR, you are missing out, my friend! Take the ferry to Culebra, a small island off the eastern coast of Puerto Rico. When you get there, go to the #2 ranked most beautiful beach IN THE WORLD, Flamenco. Its super fine white sand and crystal clear calm waters await you. It's TOTALLY worth it if you're looking to unwind. It's my favorite part of PR. I GO EVERY YEAR. Flamenco is not only one of the most award-winning beaches in the Caribbean. It’s a five star world class attraction. Live your own five star vacation story.
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YOUR COMPLIMENTARY COPY
70 THE HEMI Q&A A chat with legendary actor Robert De Niro and his Tribeca Film Festival co-founder Jane Rosenthal
76 SPY GAMES Learn all of Jack Bauer’s tricks at this SoCal survival class
86 THE NEXT OLD THING What would yesterday’s innovators have thought of today’s tech gadgets?
WELCOME ABOARD 10
VOICES A message to flyers
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CONNECTIONS What’s new at United
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BEN ROSENZWEIG
CEO LETTER A word from Jeff Smisek
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THREE REE PERFECT DAYS DAYS: FINGER LAKES Savoring natural beauty and delicious wines in New York’s Finger Lakes region
HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • APRIL 2014
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DISPATCHES News and notes from around the world
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CULTURE THE MONTH AHEAD
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What to read, watch and listen to in April
FOOD & DRINK
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Armani brings hot cuisine and haute couture together
STAY
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From Paris to Palm Beach, this month’s hottest hotels
TRAVEL ESSAY
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Nothing beats the healing powers of the hotel bathrobe
AUTO-TATION
DOWNLOAD OUR FREE APP FROM ITUNES OR GOOGLE PLAY
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Re-creating a presidential roadtrip in an Airstream
PACK LIST
50
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SUBSCRIBE TO HEMISPHERES
For a free subscription to our monthly eMag and to access recent issues, go to
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HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM
WEAR IN … MIAMI
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Fashion tips from stylist Rachael Russell facebook.com/UnitedHemispheres
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Will expanded instant replay change how baseball is umpired?
twitter.com/hemispheresmag
BRIGHT IDEAS HOW IT’S DONE
Hemispheres
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THE HEMI Q&A: ROBERT DE NIRO & JANE ROSENTHAL ON THE TRIBECA FILM FESTIVAL
Scientists use sound waves to improve tsunami alarms
INDUSTRY
ESCAPE FROM L.A. TAKING PART IN A SIMULATED CITYWIDE MANHUNT THE RIGHT CALL? MLB EXPANDS INSTANT REPLAY
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How crowdsourcing may put Madison Avenue out of business
TECH
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THREE PERFECT DAYS
FINGER LAKES
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ABOUT THE COVER: A sculpture made from wine bottles at Ithaca Beer. Photo by Moya McAllister
What is Google doing buying robotics companies?
A HEMISPHERES SUPPLEMENT
APRIL 2014
MISSISSIPPI
ENTERTAINMENT AND INFORMATION Audio Programming, Movies, Television and Inflight Wi-Fi
137
Crossword and Sudoku
146
Route Maps, Customs & Immigration, Our Fleet, Terminal Diagrams, Safety & Travel Assistance, MileagePlus and Alliances & Partnerships
151
Food & Beverages
168
INFLUENCERS
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ECONOMY
INNOVATION
GLOBAL IMPACT
114 DOSSIER, Hemispheres’ economic-development series, travels to Mississippi, where a strong manufacturing base, competitive business costs and top-notch universities have helped spark a period of remarkable economic growth.
!
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GREGORY REID (HAT AND WATCH); GETTY IMAGES (BASEBALL); FRANK OCKENFELS/AMC (JANUARY JONES)
THE FAN
WRITE TO US:
[email protected] 68 Jay St., Ste. 315, Brooklyn, NY 11201
APRIL 2014 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM
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SPRING’S THE THING WITH THE MERCURY finally rising at Hemispheres’ home base in Brooklyn, in April we’re enjoying the happenings right here in our backyard. This month, the Tribeca Film Festival, sponsored by United, transforms lower Manhaan into “Hollywood on the Hudson,” and on page 70 we talk to one of the biggest stars of them all, Robert De Niro, who co-founded the festival with producer Jane Rosenthal. Then, for our “Three Perfect Days” feature (page 102), we head just a few hours northwest, to upstate New York’s Finger Lakes, home to gorgeous natural landmarks like Taughannock Falls (pictured at le) and many fantastic wineries. And, on page 86, we have a guide to off-the-wall tech gadgets. Aer a long winter, we’re thinking this spring will bring out the creativity in all of us. —The Editors
EDITOR IN CHIEF Jordan Heller EXECUTIVE EDITOR Chris Wright MANAGING EDITOR Justin Goldman SENIOR EDITOR Jacqueline Detwiler ASSOCIATE EDITOR Erin Brady ART DIRECTOR Christos Hannides ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR Claire Eckstrom SENIOR DESIGNER Bryan Mayes PHOTO EDITOR Jessie Adler CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
Jay Cheshes, Alyssa Giacobbe, Mike Guy, Michael Kaplan, Adam K. Raymond, Cristina Rouvalis, Matthew Shaer CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS
Christine Berrie, Peter James Field, Alex Nabaum, Peter Oumanski, James Provost, Steve Stankiewicz EXECUTIVE CREATIVE DIRECTOR
Michael Keating Ink, 68 Jay St., Ste. 315, Brooklyn, NY 11201 Tel: +1 347-294-1220 Fax: +1 917-591-6247
[email protected] hemispheresmagazine.com WEBMASTER Salah Lababidi
YOU MAY NOW USE YOUR ELECTRONIC DEVICES! Download Hemispheres’ free app—for smartphone, iPad and Android tablet—and get every issue, plus special bonus features like additional stories, photos and video.
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Stephen Andrews, Jack Grant VP, STRATEGY AND BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT Andrea Alexander VP, SPECIAL PROJECTS Carsten Morgan DIRECTOR, SPECIAL PROJECTS
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ROHAN KAMICHERIL
WILLIAM WHEELER
is a Miami-based photographer who thrives on capturing natural moments with stylish subjects. Her work has been featured in Refinery29 and ELLE UK. For “Wear In” (page 52), she shot stylist Rachael Russell. “Miami style has a distinct knack for being laid-back and bright all in one,” she says. “Rachael’s style is very representative of the chic Miami girl who stands out in a crowd in a sartorially effortless way.”
spends the majority of his time eating, thinking about eating or writing about eating. When he’s not eating, he edits Words Without Borders, the magazine for literature in translation. For this month’s “Three Perfect Days” (page 102), he travels to upstate New York, where he explores the flourishing food and wine scene and soaks in the stunning natural beauty of the Finger Lakes region.
is a journalist whose reporting has taken him from post-earthquake Haiti to Himalayan peaks, covering subjects as diverse as the Tripoli uprising against Muammar Qaddafi and spelunking in the sewers of New York City. His writing has appeared in The New York Times, Boston magazine and McSweeney’s Quarterly. On page 76, he recounts a simulated day on the run from kidnappers in Los Angeles.
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Christian Storer
Ink (sales), Capital Building, 255 E. Paces Ferry Rd., Ste. 400, Atlanta, GA 30305 Tel: +1 888-864-1733 Fax: +1 917-591-6247 Ink CEO Jeffrey O’Rourke COO Hugh Godsal PUBLISHING DIRECTOR Simon Leslie HEMISPHERES is produced monthly by Ink. All material is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part without the prior written permission of the copyright holder. All prices and data are correct at the time of publication. Opinions expressed in Hemispheres are not necessarily those of the Publisher or United Airlines, and United Airlines does not accept any responsibility for advertising content. Neither United, its subsidiaries nor affiliates guarantees the accuracy, completeness or timeliness of, or otherwise endorses these facts, views, opinions or recommendations, gives investment advice, or advocates the purchase or sale of any security or investment. You should always seek the assistance of a professional for tax and investment advice. Any images are supplied at the owner’s risk. Any mention of United Airlines or the use of United Airlines logo by any advertiser in this publication does not imply endorsement of that company or its products or services by United Airlines.
BEN ROSENZWEIG (WATERFALL); AMANDA THOMSEN (WHEELER)
KARLA GARCIA
REGIONAL CREDIT MANAGER
APRIL 2014 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM
11/03/2014 12:41
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05/03/2014 15:54
CEO LETTER
Eco-Skies Friendly
W
elcome aboard, and thanks for choosing United today. April is Earth Month, and I’m proud of United’s commitment to being environmentally friendly in the air, on the ground and in our communities. Last year, due to United’s leadership in our environmental efforts, we were named Air Transport World’s Gold Eco-Airline of the Year. Our fuel use drives the largest part of our environmental footprint and is our single largest operating cost, so we remain focused on reducing fuel use, improving fuel efficiency and pursuing sustainable alternative fuels. Our efforts are working, and in 2013 we reduced CO2 emissions by almost 830,000 metric tons and significantly reduced our fuel consumption. We are committed to being a leader in alternative fuels, and last year we finalized a three-year agreement to purchase sustainable aviation biofuels from AltAir Fuels. This biofuel will be used on flights out of Los Angeles beginning later this year. We’re also making significant investments in a modern, fuel-efficient fleet to help reduce fuel consumption. We are
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proud to be the first North American carrier to operate the 787 Dreamliner, which is up to 20 percent more fuel efficient than similarly sized aircra. We currently have more than 270 new aircra on order, including more than 55 787s and 35 new fuel-efficient A350-1000s. In addition to our new aircra order book, we recently became the first airline in the world to fly with the Split Scimitar winglet—an unrivaled winglet technology that cuts our fuel consumption and therefore reduces carbon emissions. Beyond aircra, we’re constantly working to improve the sustainability of our products and reduce our waste. Our new eco-friendly insulated InCycle® coffee cup is now available in United Clubs and on United flights, and is made from up to 50 percent recycled materials. Since 2006, United has recycled more than 23.5 million pounds of aluminum cans, paper and plastic. We can’t be successful without our dedicated employees and our working together culture, so I want to thank our employees for their work in increasing our fuel efficiency, recycling and other efforts
to reduce our environmental impact. As a way to encourage our employees’ environmental interests, we launched the Eco-Skies Community Grants in 2012. This program supports volunteer service projects in the communities we serve by providing cash grants to local environmental organizations where our employees volunteer their time. I’m proud of the work we do each day to create a sustainable future for our employees, customers, shareholders and the communities we serve. Thanks again for flying with us today. We appreciate your business and look forward to welcoming you back soon.
JEFF SMISEK CHAIRMAN OF THE BOARD, PRESIDENT AND CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER, UNITED AIRLINES
APRIL 2014 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM
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VOICES
Don’t Burn This Joel Booth’s work on fuel efficiency helps save the planet—along with a whole lot of money BY A. AVERYL RE
“IT’S EXPENSIVE. It makes a huge impact on the environment. And we use a lot of it: four billion gallons a year.” Joel Booth, managing director of network operations planning, standards and efficiency, is talking about fuel and how United can go farther using less, a goal to which he has dedicated himself for years. “Anything we can do to use less fuel favorably affects the environment, profitability and the efficiency of the business.” The airline set a goal to reduce fuel expenses by $1 billion a year. Considering United, with one of the world’s broadest route networks, is expanding that network, such drastic fuel savings may seem difficult to achieve. Yet Booth and his team, working with other departments around the company, have already seen progress. “Our annual
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consumption is going down,” he says. “We aim to fly more efficiently as we go forward. A big piece is being mindful not only of the costs of fuel, but also of the environmental impact of burning it.” Last year, United exceeded its goal of saving more than 85 million gallons of fuel, at the same time eliminating 828,000 metric tons of CO2; it has improved fuel efficiency by 32 percent since 1994. The company has a multi-phased plan of action to further curtail fuel consumption. Two-thirds of that plan involves changing out or modifying airplanes to increase efficiency. The airline has been replacing older, less efficient aircraft with newer, more energy-efficient, environmentally friendly planes, such as the Boeing 787 and 737-900, as well as Embraer 175s for regional service.
“Our fleet team excels at balancing our capacity needs with fuel efficiency. Every time we replace a plane, the new one is at least 15 percent more efficient,” Booth says. Existing aircraft also get their share of energy-saving modifications, with projects such as split-scimitar winglet installations on 737s. The first of these planes took to the skies in February, and the airline plans to have 60 planes outfied by the end of 2014. On the same fleet, United also has been replacing steel brakes with carbon ones weighing 700 pounds less—less weight equals less fuel burn. The airline is also installing performance-improvement packages on several of its Boeing 777s. When finished, the company will realize a 1 percent improvement in fuel efficiency. That number seems minimal, yet that 1 percent translates to 7.2 million fewer gallons of fuel expended per year, with a corresponding 69,510 metric-ton reduction in emissions, for an annual savings of more than $20 million. The remaining third of the annual fuel savings involves improving operations, such as reducing the use of the Auxiliary Power Units (APUs). “The APU is a smaller engine to provide power and air when the big engines aren’t working,” Booth explains. “The less we use APUs, the more fuel we save. We cut APU use by making sure we have power and air on the ground so that we can plug into that instead.” Another example of improving operations involves flight planning and execution. “We make sure we create efficient flight plans,” Booth says. “We are puing into place a new flight-planning system that utilizes the most efficient routing, altitudes and speeds for our flights,” thus optimizing the fuel burned. Booth had fuel and making the most of resources on his mind even before beginning his career as a pilot at the airline in 1997, aer flying planes for the military. At United, between flying and fuel efficiency, he worked in other divisions, where he learned the day-to-day challenges of running a safe, clean, reliable operation. “I have worked with a lot of really smart people in the military and at United to learn about leadership, about fuel efficiency and about how to do the best with what we’ve got,” he says. “It’s an approach of continuous improvement—always looking to get beer at what we do every day.”
APRIL 2014 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM
05/03/2014 10:04
Each year, 10,000 kids travel with their families for a Make-A-Wish® experience. They need your air miles.
Nyiah, 3 hematological disorder
I wish to go to Hawaii
Each year MileagePlus® members donate millions of miles to Make-A-Wish. Donate your miles in April and help grant life-changing wishes this summer. wish.org/unitedmiles
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05/03/2014 15:50
CONNECTIONS ASK THE PILOT
With Captain Mike Bowers
Q: On a recent trip from Chicago to Beijing, our captain said we would take a polar route. What is a polar route, and why didn’t our return flight also take a polar route?
The Winner’s Cup MAKING A COMMITMENT to the environment means managing fuel and other large areas of environmental impact, and also seeing to little details, such as waste, like polystyrene cups for hot drinks. That’s why United made a small change that we anticipate will make a big difference: We introduced a new, eco-friendly hot-beverage cup at our United Clubs and onboard our flights over the past two months. Wa sh i n g ton s tate – ba sed c ompa ny MicroGREEN™ manufactures our new InCycle® cup, up to 50 percent of which is made of materials from recycled plastic water bottles. The cup itself is also recyclable, which helps make our flight aendants’ jobs a bit easier as they collect recyclables in the cabin. It’s also insulated, so your hot beverages will actually stay hot,
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and you won’t need a sleeve, which further reduces waste. At United, we take our commitment to the environment seriously. Last year, we were named Eco Aviation Airline of the Year by Air Transport World. We are constantly looking for ways to live up to that title by improving the sustainability of our products and services, while at the same time reducing our waste. Since 2006, United has recycled more than 23.5 million pounds of paper, plastic and aluminum on board our aircra and in our facilities. The InCycle® cup is not only aligned with our Eco-Skies® commitment to the environment, it is another way customers can feel good about flying our friendly skies. For more information on the Eco-Skies® program, visit www.united.com/eco-skies. —MARY RYAN
A: A polar route, not surprisingly, takes us over the North Pole, a shorter distance than flying west over land and the Pacific. You will see this if you look at a globe from the top: If you put one end of a string on Beijing and the other end on Chicago and pull it tightly, the string will trace over the top of the globe. On the return trip, we sometimes fly just south of the North Pole because the winds are more favorable, which decreases flying time.
Do you have a question for Captain Bowers? You can write to him at
[email protected].
APRIL 2014 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM
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DISPATCHES NEWS AND NOTES FROM AROUND THE WORLD
American Hustle Tracking some of the more creative write-offs in IRS history Prey much everybody tries to save a lile dough come April 15, but most people are smart enough to avoid antagonizing the IRS by claiming outrageous deductions. Some folks, on the other hand, take a liberal view of “expenses” and don’t care who knows it. Here, a few of the more absurd claims to make it across the desks of tax auditors. BY JACQUELINE DETWILER
ONE FOR THE BIRDS An accountant in Phoenix actually let this one slide: A local businessman who distrusted technology so much that he refused to use a phone or a computer bought carrier pigeons to communicate with his partner, according to reports. He wrote them off as a business expense—and got away with it.
THE COST OF ROCK ’N’ ROLL Rock stars are known for using artistic license with business expenses, but the IRS won’t let you claim some things no matter how great a guitar player you are. One agent tells of a band that tried to deduct a five-figure amount labeled “drugs” under “travel & entertainment” expenses. Nope.
WHEN FEDEX JUST WON’T DO For a painter, paint spatulas are a reasonable business expense. But according to Bankrate.com, a man in New Jersey once tried to deduct the airfare he spent to fly to Brazil because he purchased spatulas while there. The man’s CPA was not pleased.
PHOTO CREDIT TK - REMOVE IF EMPTY
CALL IT “CREATIVE CONSULTING” After his furniture store burned to the ground, a Pittsburgh man rightly reported the insurance money as income, according to LegalZoom. The man then claimed $10,000 in expenses for a “consulting fee.” An audit revealed who did the consulting: the arsonist who burned the store down.
WHEN THE TAXMAN BURSTS YOUR BUBBLE According to TurboTax, a man from smoggy northern New Jersey claimed a deduction for enclosing himself and his family in a “bubble of pure air.” The IRS balked, of course, but the sheer audacity of the claim, it is said, did help the man avoid penalties for fraud.
HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • APRIL 2014 • ILLUSTRATION BY DANNY HELLMAN
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DISPATCHES
LONDON
UP IS THE NEW DOWN A master globemaker turns the world on its head BY CHRIS WRIGHT
IN A CLUTTERED, warren-like industrial space in north London, Peter Bellerby is changing the world— albeit in miniaturized form. Since 2008, the 49-year-old has presided over Bellerby & Co., makers of handcrafted, bespoke globes whose prices range from around $1,500 to $100,000. And, for that kind of money, you can pretty much have the planet you want. “We always make sure the buyer’s hometown is there,” Bellerby says, describing one of the less dramatic forms of customization his company provides. “In the end, cartography is a personal thing.” All around him—on tables, under chairs—are globes in various stages of completion. The largest is over four feet in diameter, and so requires about a thousand more
bits of geographic information than a midsize planet. If the person who commissioned it decides that one of those additions should be his favorite bagel shop, Bellerby will happily oblige. Sometimes, though, his customers’ demands aren’t so easily managed. In one of Bellerby’s workshops is a large globe that looks wrong. Closer scrutiny reveals why: South Africa is located in the north, North America in the south, and there is not a single recognizable feature on the entire planet. The globe was commissioned by a Brazilian law firm, which wanted the world turned upside down in order to make the Southern Hemisphere appear more prominent. This request presented Bellerby & Co. with a few problems, including the fact that the
HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • APRIL 2014 • ILLUSTRATIONS BY PETER OUMANSKI
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name of every town, river, mountain, lake and atoll had to be rotated and, thus, repositioned. “It was a challenge,” he says. Even trickier, perhaps, was coming to terms with the way the new world looks. “It’s crazy,” Bellerby says, his nose inches away from the upwardpointing Cape of Good Hope. Also, unless you approach the globe on your hands and knees, a lot of the interesting stuff is hidden away. “There’s so much going on in the Northern Hemisphere,” says Bellerby, pointing to a barren expanse of blue. “Even the Antarctic, which is amazing, is just a lot of white.” With this, Bellerby squints at the lettering on his creation, in the way he does a hundred times a day. “The idea of selling a globe with a mistake,” he says, “is my biggest horror.”
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DISPATCHES
GERMANY
A STROLL IN THE DARK A FRANKFURT MUSEUM OFFERS A CRASH COURSE IN WHAT IT’S LIKE TO BE BLIND Six teenagers shuffle their feet in a room at Frankfurt’s Dialog Museum, each of them clutching a white cane. “Come to me, please,” says a female voice from behind a floor-length curtain. The kids do as they are told. And that’s the last anyone sees of them for an hour. Dialogue in the Dark is an interactive workshop aimed at giving people a sense of what it’s like to be blind. Founded in Frankfurt 25 years ago, the organization now has outposts across the world.
Today’s tour consists of seven rooms, each devoted to an everyday activity like hanging out at a bar, playing soccer or just crossing the street. The idea is that people will emerge on the other side as more empathetic individuals. The immediate response to the exercise, judging by today’s participants, is closer to fear than enlightenment. “Here I am,” says
the voice as the whimpering teens try to figure out what here means. After fear comes confusion. “Turn right,” the voice says, which leads everyone to bump into everyone else, mainly due to the fact that, when the instruction is given, no two people are facing in the same direction. A game of soccer turns into a series of tentative air kicks; a drink in the pitch-black bar becomes an exercise in not jabbing your nose with a bottle. But it’s the simple act of moving through the world that causes people the most problems. “What do you feel?” asks the voice as the youngsters grope their way toward the exit. “My girlfriend,” says one of the boys. “That is not your girlfriend,” a stranger replies. —MARCIA ADAIR
AUSTIN, TEXAS
WAR OF THE WORDS AT THIS PUN COMPETITION, WORDPLAY IS NO GAME Benjamin Ziek, a 38-year-old hotel night auditor, wipes sweat from his brow, but it’s not the heat that’s geing to him. “I’m praying,” he says. “Man-tis is hard.” See what he did there? In case you didn’t: Ziek was referring to the pressure of having to devise an insect-themed pun in five seconds or less, a requirement of the Punslinger round at the O. Henry Pun-Off World Championships. Ziek and his rival are facing each other on a stage, in front of a Texas state flag, wearing expressions of fierce concentration.
The face-off will continue until one of the men falters. For those competing at Austin’s O. Henry Museum, punning is no laughing maer. Over the course of six grueling hours, dozens of contestants deliver hundreds of puns on everything from Vietnamese food (“please don’t bánh mì from your sandwich place”) to World War II (“I did Nazi that coming”) to campfire drinking sessions (“a grizzly beer aack”). The contest is strictly monitored; those who break the rules—such as resorting to “Ma Lauer” puns, which don’t involve homonyms (“The rail initiative is geing on track”)—are out. In the end, Ziek prevails, becoming only the second person in Pun-Off
history to pick up both of the competition’s major trophies, Punslinger of the Year and Punniest of Show. He will not, though, be greeted by a tickertape parade when he gets back to his Glendale, Calif., home. In fact, he says, hardly anyone there even knows he does this. “It’s almost like a secret society,” he adds, standing next to a food truck named Guac N Roll. “These are my people.” —CHRISTINA COUCH
A ROYAL MESS HOW NOT TO KEEP A COOL HEAD IN THE PRESENCE OF NOBILITY DUBAI • Fifty or so mesmerized-looking
people are milling about in a large tent, set up on the grounds of a palace in Zabeel, a relatively leafy neighborhood in Dubai. The palace, and the tent, belong to Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum, ruler of the emirate and the host of a function for members of the local media.
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A half-hour or so into the affair, a resplendent Sheikh Mohammed approaches a young Englishman, his hand held out as if in greeting. “Quick,” the Brit hisses to his companion, “think of something for me to say!” A waiter passes with a tray bearing a single glass of water, and the Englishman reaches for the glass. Unfortunately, he does so at exactly the
same time as His Highness, and there’s a moment when it seems the two men may engage in an unseemly tug-of-war. The Sheikh, having claimed the water, asks the man if he’s having a nice time. “I’m in a tent with a crystal chandelier,” the man blurts. “How could I be bored?” Sheikh Mohammed smiles and moves on. —HELEN ROSS
APRIL 2014 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM
11/03/2014 10:45
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VIETNAM
THE FAST AND THE FATALIST DIRECTING TRAFFIC IN HO CHI MINH CITY CAN STRIP A MAN OF ALL HOPE Nguyen Cong Son cuts a solitary, forlorn figure, blowing his whistle and waving a wooden baton in the middle of an eight-lane rotary, looking every bit like a man trying to ward off a swarm of mosquitoes. “Every day is the same,” Nguyen says with a shrug. “Nobody listens.” The 32-year-old police officer has been directing traffic in Ho Chi Minh City for two years, and the experience has endowed him with a grim fatalism. “It’s pointless,” he says. This city has always had traffic issues, but skyrocketing vehicle
ownership and liberal interpretations of traffic laws have combined to make it one of Asia’s worst accident hotspots. A recent U.S. government report identified driving and crossing the road as the two most dangerous things you can do here. “Look at it,” Nguyen says above the riot of horns and grinding gears. “It’s more like a video game than real life.” He points at a motorcycle hurtling down the wrong side of the street, three helmetless passengers on its seat. Other bikes carry mounds of bamboo
baskets, stacks of caged geese, plates of glass. A middle-aged man with flip-flops and slickedback hair buzzes by with another scooter tied to his back seat. While visitors tend to regard the pandemonium with expressions of horrified wonder, locals move among the opposing streams of traffic with unconscious precision.
“The simple act of crossing the road has been elevated to a Zen-like affair,” says John Labucha, an Australian who has lived here for a decade. “Breathe. Then slowly wade into the traffic. Then trust—the hardest part of the exercise—that it will go around you, and not through you. Follow those steps, and you should be fine.” —CAIN NUNNS
CRUEL AS A CUCUMBER APRIL MAY NOT BE AS HORRIBLE AS ONE GROUCHY GENIUS WOULD HAVE US BELIEVE “April is the cruellest month,” wrote T. S. Eliot in “The Waste Land,” along with some stuff about dirty ears and planting corpses in gardens. You have to wonder, though: What was he on about? Certainly, there would seem to be more
suitable cruel-month candidates (February is no picnic). So, combining stringent research protocols (Google) and our own Cruel-O-Meter (rated from 1 to 10), we set out to test the poet’s hypothesis. —CW
KIND: On April 23, 1564, the birth of William Shakespeare gave the world its greatest poet.
CRUEL: On April 23, 2009, Talk Like Shakespeare Day was established in Chicago, resulting in the unfortunate spectacle of people walking around saying “nonny” and “bodkin.” CRUEL-O-METER: 2
CRUEL: On April 10, 1970, Paul McCartney announced that the Beatles were breaking up, causing millions of fans to rend their clothing in despair. KIND: Without the breakup, the world would never have had Stevie Wonder and Paul McCartney’s song about how pianos can teach us not to be racist. CRUEL-O-METER: 6
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CRUEL: On April 1, 2001, the manager of a Florida Hooters announced that the staffer who sold the most beer would win a Toyota. The winning waitress was led, blindfolded, to a … toy Yoda.
CRUEL: On April 6, 1926, an Australian boy set about clubbing a cassowary to death. The emu-like bird fought back, leading to the only recorded human fatality from the animal. KIND: Humans decide it’s a bad idea to club birds. CRUEL-OMETER: 1
KIND: The disappointed waitress later sued the restaurant, receiving an undisclosed settlement (said to be the new Toyota of her choice). CRUEL-O-METER: 3
CRUEL: On April 14, 1970, an oxygen tank exploded aboard the Apollo 13 spacecraft, placing the three men on board in grave danger. KIND: The astronauts survived, and the incident spawned a hit movie with Tom Hanks, along with the phrase “Houston, we have a problem.” CRUEL-O-METER: 2
APRIL 2014 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM
11/03/2014 10:45
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culture ARTS
MEDIA
EVENTS
IT'S A TRAP! A carnivorous plant and its unsuspecting victim
THE MONTH AHEAD
The Garden of Eatin’
SHUTTERSTOCK
A new exhibition explores the darker side of vegetation It’s hard to find fault with plants. They’re generally nice to look at. Bunny rabbits eat them. They’re said to be quite good for the environment. There are, though, some truly horrible leafy things out there, examples of which are on display this month at San Francisco’s Conservatory of Flowers. Among the hundreds of carnivorous plants in “Chomp!: They Came From the Swamp” are pitcher plants, which dissolve their prey in gastric juices, and the sticky sundew, which uses a gluey mucus to trap its victims, who go on to meet a slow and uncomfortable end. Then, of course, there’s the Venus flytrap, the most infamous of these psychos of the soil. Along with the living exhibits, the show also has walk-in models aimed at giving visitors a sense of what it’s like to be eaten by a flower. Who could resist? —CHRIS WRIGHT (April 11)
HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • APRIL 2014
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culture || THE MONTH AHEAD
A Taxonomy of Titters “A journalist and a scientist walk into a bar…” This may sound like the opening of a joke, but it’s actually the story behind the creation of The Humor Code, a new book from Joel Warner and Dr. Peter McGraw. In it, the duo aempts to decipher what makes people laugh and why, an effort that involved 91,000 miles of travel and a bunch of interviews with humorous types. Here, the authors share a few stories from the road, and the lessons therein. —ERIN BRADY STORY: We got employees of a New York
ad agency liquored up and asked them to dream up funny ads. The result? A bunch of unfunny, offensive ads—and a $1,272.96 bar tab. TAKEAWAY: Alcohol makes things funnier—to the person doing the drinking. STORY: In an interview, Louis C.K. pooh-
poohed Pete’s humor theory. Rattled, Pete ended up asking an inappropriate question about the comedian’s anatomy. TAKEAWAY: Comedians and those deconstructing comedy don’t always mix. Like magicians, humorists aren’t eager to give away their tricks. STORY: While researching a 1962 laughter
epidemic in Tanzania, we got caught in a squall in a tiny dinghy on Lake Victoria. We were terrified—until we erupted in a hysterical laughing fit. TAKEAWAY: Laughter is a powerful signal. It can help indicate that a potentially negative experience is actually OK.
What’s the Deal with Show Business? Former “Seinfeld” writer Carol Leifer gives it to us straight in a new instructional memoir THOSE WHO SEEK long-term show-
biz success could do worse than to follow the example of Carol Leifer. In a career that has spanned four decades, the comedian has wrien for “Seinfeld,” “The Larry Sanders Show” and “Saturday Night Live,” and been nominated for an Emmy three times. It’s lucky, then, that Leifer had an unusual idea for a follow-up to her best-selling 2009 book, When You Lie About Your Age, the Terrorists Win. “I thought, well, I could just write a straight memoir,” she says, “but then each story from my career reminded me of something I learned along the way, and I felt like that might be an interesting twist.” The result, How to Succeed in Business Without Really Crying, is a sort of how-to for the wannabe comedy writer. It includes such saws as “always assume someone’s watching” and “don’t be afraid of failure,”
told through lighthearted anecdotes involving the likes of Aaron Spelling and Frank Sinatra. And it appears that Leifer has been following her own advice: Aer finishing the book, she got herself another plum gig, as co–executive producer on Lifetime’s “Downton Abbey”-goes-Hollywood series “Devious Maids.”—JACQUELINE DETWILER (April 8)
Tasting Notes This month’s musical smorgasbord includes three new food-centric releases. Here, we separate the Fritos from the filet mignon (and give each album a drink pairing). —EB
The Los Angeles–based ’80s hair metal parody band returns with its third studio album, All You Can Eat. The lead single, “The Burden of Being Wonderful,” picks up where previous records le off—in the ’80s. As for the title, we’re not sure what's on the menu, but we bet there’s “Cherry Pie.” Pairs best with: Tepid Moët served in a high-heeled shoe
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Kelis, Food (April 22) Best known for bringing all the boys to the yard, singersongwriter Kelis is back with her sixth studio album, Food. Judging by the soul-tinged single “Jerk Ribs,” the record will put some meat on your bones … or hair on your chest … or something. Pairs best with: Prey much anything but a milkshake
Mac DeMarco, Salad Days (April 1) Oddball Canadian Mac DeMarco follows up his 2012 debut, 2, with this month’s Salad Days. Featuring the singer’s signature slacker-rock sensibility, the album appears to be aimed at those who forgo leuce and cucumber in favor of a different kind of vegetation.
SCOTT KIRKLAND (LEIFER)
Steel Panther, All You Can Eat (April 1)
Pairs best with: A spiked 7-Eleven Slurpee and a dozen Slim Jims
APRIL 2014 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM
07/03/2014 14:56
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culture || THE MONTH AHEAD
It’s a Mad World This month marks the return of AMC’s hit drama “Mad Men” for its final season (well, the first half of it, anyway). Amid reports that the show will conclude with a present-day look at an 84-year-old Don Draper, we decided to read the tobacco, er, tea leaves to divine the fates of the Sterling Cooper crew. —JUSTIN GOLDMAN (April 13) Don Draper Returns to Sterling Cooper after promising to quit it with the confessions. Continues smoking, drinking and philandering. Narrowly misses out on accounts with Nike and Microsoft by offending clients. Has several more marriages and divorces. (What, you think Draper’s going to change?)
Betty Francis Becomes First Lady of New York when her husband is elected governor in 1974. Uses her notoriety to turn her parenting book, Fetch Me My Cigarettes, into a best-seller. In the 2000s, becomes a regular guest on “The View.”
Pete Campbell When a decadeslong career of sniveling and manipulation gives way to his conscience, he dedicates his life to helping orphanages and adoption agencies around the world. Even develops a self-deprecating sense of humor, naming his nonprofit the Pencil Neck Foundation.
Peggy Olson Finally (!) splits from Draper and builds her career at various agencies throughout the ’70s. In the ’80s, coins the term “glass ceiling” in an interview with the Wall Street Journal. Swears off men and eventually undergoes artificial insemination, giving birth to a daughter.
Roger Sterling His use of mindaltering substances spirals out of control, and he snaps out of an extended trip to find himself onstage at Woodstock, playing congas in Jimi Hendrix’s band (but still wearing an impeccable suit).
Joan Harris Outlasts all the other partners at Sterling Cooper, becoming the first woman to be the chief owner of a major advertising agency. Retires to Key West, where she is entertained by several houseboys and is frequently visited by her son, a physician who treats inner-city children.
Three Questions For
… Nick Frost The British comic actor Nick Frost is best known as Simon Pegg’s sidekick in films like Hot Fuzz and Shaun of the Dead. But this month he plays the leading man in Cuban Fury, a rom-com about an overweight schlub who takes up salsa dancing in order to woo the woman of his dreams (Rashida Jones). To prepare for the role, Frost trained intensively for seven months. Here, he tells us what it was like. Q: What was the main challenge in your quest to become a salsa dancer? A: I’ve always liked dancing, and I’ve always been okay at it. The hardest thing for me was learning to dance with a woman and not be terrified. I spent a lot of the time with my hands behind my back because I didn’t know what to do with them. Q: There’s something inherently comical, isn’t there, about a fullfigured man displaying that kind of grace? Visually, the film is a bit like Kung Fu Panda. A: I hope if they ever do make a liveaction version of Kung Fu Panda, I’m the one they’re going to come to. Q: A man of your size doesn’t usually play the romantic lead. Was it he difficult to get into the role and pull off such sexy dancing? A: I’ve always been a k sexy [guy]. I never look or at myself in the mirror and think, “What a n the pitiful hippo.” I look in mirror and think, “I’d [date] y me.” So I didn’t see any ll. downside in that at all. —CW (April 11)
FRANK OCKENFELS/AMC (“MAD MEN”)
“I turned back to the steady lines of the court, listened to the thwock of the ball. The sun was lowering. I loved the liver-colored rectangles and clean yellow lines, even the hazy poor park trees, where dim light settled a jewel on every branch. I pictured my mom’s earrings—all gifts from my father— flung up in the air and landing in the cupped leaves." —From Casebook, the new novel by Mona Simpson, about a boy who eavesdrops to discover the mysteries of his unraveling family. (April 15)
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APRIL 2014 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM
11/03/2014 10:47
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Rude Tube
“Veep” star Reid Sco talks about his role on the most insulting show on TV “JESUS, LOOK AT HIS stupid gaping mouth. Let’s put stuff in it.” This line, delivered by Reid Sco (pictured above, center) on the HBO comedy “Veep,” isn’t the most inventive insult aimed at the show’s lumbering scapegoat, Jonah Ryan, but it’s one of the few we can print in this magazine. Some of the best (and most unprintable) lines come from Julia Louis-Dreyfus, who plays the Vice President of the United States, and whose fans include real-life VP Joe Biden. Entering its third season this month, “Veep” is the work of the Scoish satirist Armando Iannucci, creator of the BBC’s acerbic political comedy “The Thick of It,” and like its predecessor the show is extravagantly profane. Certainly, anyone who has watched “Veep” will never look at a croissant the same way again. Sco, who plays Dan Egan, the Vice President’s smarmy, self-serving deputy director of communications, says that one of the perils of being in “Veep” is taking your work home with you. “I’ve found my insults have goen very verbose,” he says. “I try to be polite, quiet, but then someone will turn without using a signal and Dan Egan comes vomiting out of my mouth.” While much of the invective lobbed about on “Veep” is the product of Iannucci’s febrile imagination, the show’s actors are also Becoming Dan: “When I first went in, encouraged to improvise, which, Sco says, Armando asked me to just talk to him as Dan, can get awkward at times. “You’ll have said without a net, just get on with it. I’d never something about someone’s face, and you’ll been asked to do this before. I’m spoiled for go over aerwards and say, ‘I’m so sorry!’” the rest of my life now. I don’t think I can go Off screen, says Sco, there’s a lile more back to ‘Come in and be the guy on the page.’” warmth among the cast members, who are Popularity: “I thought for sure ‘Veep’ would effectively sequestered in Maryland during find an audience in New York and L.A. I the shooting. “We go to a lot of movies. We thought people in Washington would get a drink a lot of wine.” As for Timothy Simons, kick out of it. But I’ve been blown away by the who plays the hated White House liaison response. I get stopped every day by people Jonah: “He’s one of my closest friends.” who love the show, some of them kids.” Simons, Scott continues, is “a great guy, so unlike his character,” but admits that the Realism: “I’ve met congressmen, lobbyists, line is a lile more blurry with his own role. chief-of-staffers, and they all said, ‘Oh, man, you guys are nailing it.’ One of my friends “There’s a bit of Danny here or there,” he worked in D.C. for years, and the first words says, adding that this fact isn’t as bad as it out of his mouth were, ‘Okay, so you’re sounds. “He’s a charming, upwardly mobile playing me.’ I’m happy we’re accurate, but it’s jerk, but there’s a heart in there somewhere.” also terrifying.” —CW (April 6)
Reid Sco On...
EMILEY SCHWEICH/EVERETT COLLECTION
FILM Another—yes, another—Marvel comic book movie, Captain America: The Winter Soldier // Supernatural thriller Oculus contains “terror, violence, some disturbing images and brief language” TV Season four of “Game of Thrones” airs on HBO, with the promise of more big-budget decapitations than ever MUSIC Tweeny-boppers One Direction kick off their “Where We Are” global tour in Bogotá, Colombia // Post-Britpop band Embrace returns after eight years of eerie silence with a self-titled album BOOKS McPostmodernist Douglas Coupland publishes the brilliantly titled novel Worst. Person. Ever.
A L S O
O U T
T H I S
M O N T H
culture || THE MONTH AHEAD
APRIL 2014 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM
11/03/2014 10:47
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FOOD & DRINK
PRETTY AS A PICTURE Risotto “Vialone Nano” with langoustines at Armani/Ristorante
FASHION PLATES The hautest couture houses in the world bring their wares out of the closet and into the kitchen
ARMANI/RISTORANTE, ARMANI HOTEL DUBAI
BY JAY CHESHES
AT 6:15 A.M., as the sun rises over the Persian Gulf, I meet Alessandro Salvatico, the young Italian chef behind Armani/ Ristorante at the Armani Hotel in Dubai, for a tour of the city’s old fish market. “You can do some beautiful carpaccio with that,” he says, eyeing pristine local tuna stacked on ice, as we wander, groggy, among the catches of the day. We both could be in beer shape this morning. Just a few hours ago we were
HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • APRIL 2014
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overindulging at the Cavalli Club, an animal-print and crystal-chandelierbedecked nightspot owned by Florentine designer Roberto Cavalli that’s currently the place to be seen in the Emirates. In fact, much of my time here has been spent indulging in over-the-top food and drink provided by luxury fashion houses. The five restaurants in the Armani Hotel, for instance, have been piling on the foie gras, caviar and shaved Alba truffles in dining
rooms shaded in muted grays and browns. Versace will soon join them here, with a new restaurant-filled hotel on the shore of Dubai Creek that will no doubt be as glitzy as the company’s red-carpet gowns. While Giorgio Armani himself famously eats simple and light, the food at his Dubai restaurants is hardly model bait—like most successful designers, he gives his clients what they want. “Last night we did 28 truffle tasting menus,”
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culture || FOOD & DRINK
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From Fray to Nay The drop shot grows up
Drop shots—lowbrow shooters tossed in beer or Red Bull and often drunk in a single go—are longtime favorites of rowdy college kids and offduty bartenders. Those same bartenders are now updating this drink style for the cra-enthusiast crowd, using high-end spirits and mixers to make versions that are more sippable—for example, Fernet-Branca poured into ginger beer at Las Vegas’ Vesper Bar, and Maker’s Mark and preserved lemon syrup tipped into Kölsch-style ale at Chicago’s Drop, which will make almost any cocktail on the menu into a drop shot. Composing these things requires a deft palate, says Steve Yamada, Drop’s cocktail consultant. “There’s a pairing aspect to it,” he says. “You’re essentially making a small cocktail—the shot component—and then serving it in another medium, like a housemade soda or a cra beer.” Here, he shows us how to make one. —ANNE BERRY
SAINT ROSA › 6 sprigs rosemary › 750 ml bottle of Don Julio Blanco › ½ oz. Cynar
› ¼ oz. fresh lime juice › 3 oz. San Pellegrino grapefruit soda
1. Place rosemary in the bottle of Don Julio. Infuse overnight, then strain. 2. Add 1 oz. rosemary-infused tequila, Cynar and lime juice to a mixing glass with ice. Shake and strain into a shot glass. 3. Place a rocks glass over the shot glass. Holding the shot glass against the bottom of the rocks glass, flip over both glasses. The mini cocktail should stay in the upside-down shot glass. 4. Pour grapefruit soda into the rocks glass. 5. Before drinking, bump the shot glass so that the seal is broken and all the contents mix.
ARTHUR KNUTSON (SAINT ROSA)
says Salvatico, wandering past displays of live lobsters and baby hammerhead sharks. In fact, Armani himself may have started the fashion-food fad now sweeping the world. The 79-year-old icon launched his first Emporio Armani Express restaurant in London in the 1980s, its look and feel inspired in part by Richard Gere’s clotheshorse hustler in American Gigolo. “Mr. Armani designed everything,” says a member of his hospitality team not authorized to speak for the company. “The restaurant was the start of becoming not just a clothing company but a lifestyle brand.” Though it might be (slightly) more eyepopping here in Dubai, where high-end brands and lavish dinners go hand in hand, this phenomenon is hardly unique to the Emirates. Epicurean ventures are an essential component these days for fashion brands vying for world domination. Roberto Cavalli also runs clubby restaurants in Delhi, Beirut, St.-Tropez and Miami, among other places. And in Paris, Ralph Lauren recently opened Ralph’s, a hotspot on the Le Bank known for its pricey burgers and New York–style cheesecake. In Armani’s hometown of Milan, where the designer runs a high-end Italian restaurant, a Nobu franchise and the Emporio Armani Caffè, there’s plenty of competition on the fashion/food front—often with surprisingly ambitious and accomplished cuisine. London-based Canadian design duo Dsquared2 just opened a serious rooop restaurant there, joining eateries from Dolce & Gabbana, Trussardi and Missoni. The nearby Bulgari Hotel flies in food stars from around the world for guest chef stints. Even New Yorker Marc Jacobs has a small café attached to his Milan boutique. And in all of this excess and luxury, there seems to be just one rule: Don’t spill anything on the clothes.
APRIL 2014 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM
11/03/2014 10:51
AMERICA’S ORIGINAL CRAFT VODKA
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2014
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culture || FOOD & DRINK
BURGER KING Tom Kerridge of The Hand & Flowers
IT GROWS ON TREES Sweet garlic beignet with chocolate ganache and hickory syrup kettle corn at Salamander Resort & Spa; inset: hickorybark syrup from Falling Bark Farm
PUB GRUB SCRUBS UP England’s latest celebrity chef, courtesy of the only bar in the world with two Michelin stars LAST WINTER, with professional grump Gordon Ramsay still smarting from his bankruptcy scare and bombshell Nigella Lawson being slammed in the press middivorce, Brits began looking for a kinder, gentler food celebrity to love. They may have found one in Tom Kerridge, chef at The Hand & Flowers, the only pub in the world with two Michelin stars. As the year came to a close, the burly pub chef was everywhere at once: at the UK’s National Restaurant Awards, picking up the prize for restaurant of the year; in primetime on BBC2 with the country’s toprated new food show, “Proper Pub Food”; and on bookstore displays and best-seller lists with his program’s companion cookbook, which for a while outsold even the new Bridget Jones installment. A former child actor, big for his age—“I would be cast as a thug or the school bully,” he says—Kerridge these days is as comfortable behind the stove as he is in front of the cameras. His gentle-giant TV persona (calling food “proper lush” is a favorite catchphrase) has helped make his modest country restaurant outside London among the most coveted reservations in Britain. The tasty food hasn’t hurt either. “Just because it’s a pub doesn’t mean the food has to be rubbish,” Kerridge says. His brigade—17 chefs for just 15 rough wooden tables—serves elevated pub classics, such as an ale-rubbed roast chicken topped with shaved English truffles. “It’s serious food,” says Kerridge, “but served in the kind of place I’d want to go on my day off.” —JC
Junk in the Trunk Other syrup trees challenge the hegemony of maple ALONG WITH POUTINE, hockey and Dan Aykroyd, maple syrup
ranks as one of Canada’s greatest exports, but the time has come for the amber-hued nectar to share its sweet reign. Lately, birch, hickory, pine and walnut syrups have been showing up in desserts, marinades and cocktails, paired with foie gras, drizzled over ice cream and poured atop stacks of pancakes. The alterna-syrups range in flavor from nutty and smoky to fruity and tangy and are significantly less sweet than their more popular cousin. They’re also significantly more difficult to produce. It takes 100 gallons of birch sap to produce one gallon of syrup, compared to 40 gallons of maple sap for a single gallon of syrup. And shagbark hickory syrup, which is made from the bark rather than the sap, is even more labor-intensive. The slow (ahem, molasses-like?) rise of substitute syrups is fueled by artisan producers like Wildwood’s Travis and Joyce Miller, who started selling their Virginia-foraged hickory syrup, made chiefly from shagbark, at local farmers markets three years ago. Their audience is primarily local, but chefs like Chris Edwards, who mans the kitchen at the new Salamander Resort & Spa outside Washington, D.C., have glommed on to their woodsy syrup. “There are smoky notes and a complexity that
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The Ultimate Steak Experience! Gene & Georgetti geneandgeorgetti.com
benjaminsteakhouse.com
CHICAGO, IL 312.527.3718
NEW YORK, NY 212.297.9177
PROPRIETORS: Tony & Marion Durpetti
PROPRIETOR: Benjamin Prelvukaj CHEF: Arturo McLeod
III Forks
McKendrick’s Steak House
iiiforks.com
DALLAS, TX 972.267.1776
mckendricks.com
EXECUTIVE CHEF: Chris Vogeli
PALM BEACH GARDENS, FL 561.630.3660
VISITBRITAIN (KERRIDGE); COURTESY OF SALAMANDER RESORT AND SPA (BEIGNET); COURTESY OF WILDWOOD’S (SYRUP)
EXECUTIVE CHEF: Tommy Nevill
make it a great choice for breakfast foods, but we also enjoy it with a tart fruit, like cranberry or green apple,” says Edwards. Sherrie Yarling and Gordon Jones, the duo behind Hickoryworks, lucked into their Midwest syrup business when they were gathering wood for their shiitake mushroom– growing business and met an old man who ended up giving them his family recipe for hickory syrup. And in northern Italy, Eleonora Cunacia gathers the buds of a shrubby pine called mugo, collects the sap and cooks it down with sugar and water to make Mugolio. A sign that these maple substitutes are contenders for the throne? You can find both at Dean & DeLuca. —GERALDINE CAMPBELL
Benjamin Steak House
St. Elmo Steak House stelmos.com
ATLANTA, GA 770.512.8888 PROPRIETORS: Claudia & Doug McKendrick CHEF: Tom Minchella
Malone’s malonesrestaurant.com
INDIANAPOLIS, IN 317.635.0636
LEXINGTON, KY 859.335.6500
PROPRIETORS: Steve Huse & Craig Huse
PROPRIETORS: Brian McCarty & Bruce Drake
Metropolitan Grill
Manny’s
themetropolitangrill.com
mannyssteakhouse.com
MINNEAPOLIS, MN 612.339.9900
SEATTLE, WA 206.624.3287
PROPRIETORS: Phil Roberts, Peter Mihajlov
PROPRIETOR: Ron Cohn
& Kevin Kuester
RingSide Steakhouse
Grill 225 grill225.com
RingSideSteakhouse.com
CHARLESTON, SC 843.266.4222
PORTLAND, OR 503.223.1513
PROPRIETOR: Nick Palassis EXECUTIVE CHEF: Demetre Castanas
PROPRIETORS: Jan, Scott & Craig Peterson
INDEPENDENTLY OWNED & OPERATED
www.GreatSteakofNA.com
APRIL 2014 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM
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SM
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room and onboard
Upgrade your travel experience when you fly and when you stay with RewardsPlus. Learn more at united.com/rewardsplus JW Marriott® San Antonio Hill Country Resort and Spa
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STAY
THE BREAKERS
THIS MONTH’S HOTTEST HOTELS
COURTESY OF THE BREAKERS PALM BEACH
PALM BEACH, FLA.
BACKSTORY: Oil Magnate Henry Morrison Flagler began speculating in Florida railroads in the 1880s. Enamored of Palm Beach Island, which sits between the Intracoastal Waterway and the Atlantic, he built a resort—the Palm Beach Inn—there. It became known as The Breakers in 1901, shortly before it burned down (twice) and was rebuilt.
BEST PLACE TO HANG OUT: Rented in advance, the white clapboard poolfront bungalows at each of the hotel’s three family-friendly pools keep you cool and entertained while the lile ones play. If you’re more in the market for peace, quiet and frozen daiquiris, there’s a brand new adults-only pool with a pergola for shade.
HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • APRIL 2014
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CLAIM TO FAME: The guest list at this Italianate masterpiece reads like the New York Social Register. The Astors, Vanderbilts and Rockefellers were regulars. Andrew Carnegie and J.P. Morgan frequented the property, as did Henry James, who described the hotel as “burnished like a royal yacht, really immaculate and delightful.”
HOT DISH: You won’t need old money to eat at the high-concept HMF, but you will need money. Sele into an emerald easy chair and use the unreasonably long silverware to eat wild boar empanaditas and heirloom tomatoes with silky burrata cheese, followed by butterscotch panna coa with rum-roasted pineapple.
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culture || STAY
BACKSTORY: The hotel occupies 24 floors of the Zoofenster, the tower that anchors a huge redevelopment scheme in the historic Charloenburg district. This ambitious project is the first Waldorf Astoria in Germany and serves as a showcase for the company’s sleek new aesthetic. DESIGN NOTES: While the architecture is uerly modern, it incorporates many of the design elements of the Waldorf in New York. A gilded gate evokes the Manhaan original, as does the Peacock Alley lounge, with its black marble columns and subtle Art Deco trim. HOT DISH: There are few dining experiences more glamorous than Les Solistes by Michelin-starred chef Pierre Gagnaire. Heavy hiers such as duck foie gras, langoustine and fillet of beef are joined by scallops in a sweet-onion and Madrascurry soup. ROOM WITH A VIEW: While all 232 rooms and suites have floorto-ceiling windows, the best perch of all is the two-bedroom presidential suite, which occupies the 31st floor and provides views of the German capital from every corner. On foggy days, you have a piano and fireplace to distract you. BEST PLACE TO HANG OUT: You don’t have to be a bibliophile to love the 15th-floor library. Along with the books, there are amazing views. This may be the only hotel in the world where the concierge directs guests to a destination using a telescope.
Waldorf Astoria Berlin GERMANY
Mandarin Oriental
ROOM WITH A VIEW: While every room at the Mandarin Oriental can be counted among the city’s most spacious, the Royale Mandarin Suite goes to extremes. The suite comprises more than 3,700 square feet across two floors, with windows providing almost comically quintessential Parisian views. WHAT YOU’LL FIND JUST OUTSIDE: Situated on the Rue St.-Honoré, the hotel is surrounded by the top names in Paris fashion, as well as a few legendary break-the-bank jewelers: Boucheron, Van Cleef & Arpels, Cartier and Dior, to name a few. Plus, there’s the first ever Maison Chloé just next door. BEST PLACE TO HANG OUT: The inner courtyard of this Art Deco–inspired building, planted with camellias and magnolias, has a botanical-garden feel to it. A significant highlight is the Table du Jardin, a three-story birdcage containing a private table that seats up to eight diners, all of whom are on display to passers-by. C’est bizarre. HOT DISH: Though you can’t really go wrong with anything coming out of the kitchen of two-Michelin-starred chef Thierry Marx, adventurous eaters should dive headfirst into the nine-course tasting menu at his intimate Sur Mesure for avant-garde plates like soy and oyster risoo, which mix French technique with Asian influences.
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COURTESY OF MANDARIN ORIENTAL (PARIS); QUABBE+TESSMANN (WALDORF ASTORIA BERLIN)
PARIS
APRIL 2014 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM
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The Z1™ is FAA approved for in-flight use.
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culture || STAY FORT WORTH, TEXAS BACKSTORY: Imelda Marcos is more famous for her shoe collection, but it was she and dictator hubby Ferdinand who commissioned this megahotel back in 1976 to impress the delegates of an International Monetary Fund conference. The first hotel of the Peninsula chain outside Chinese territory, it gained further notoriety in 2007 when a military coup ended aer an armored car crashed through the front of the hotel.
The Ashton
WHAT YOU’LL FIND JUST OUTSIDE: When the hotel opened, its location in the sterile business district of Makati City deterred many leisure travelers. However, in recent years Manila’s nightlife scene has shied away from the rough-and-ready bars of Malate and over to Makati’s high-rolling nightclubs. There’s also plenty of high-end shopping, a fine-art museum and an 18-hole golf course.
HOT PLATE: Of a bewildering eight dining options at the hotel, the pan-Asian restaurant Spices is a good bet. Filipino favorites—inihaw na baboy (spicy barbecue pork with chili vinegar) and kilawing tanguingue (marinated mackerel)—are served alongside dishes from Thailand, India and Pakistan. The wine list, while not cheap by local standards, has some spicy gems to match an array of curries.
BACKSTORY: Built in 1915, the Ashton’s six-story Italianate building was originally the home of the Fort Worth Club, a society of local business bigwigs determined to bring cosmopolitan culture to “Cowtown.” Over the years, even as Fort Worth flourished, the building fell into disrepair. When the Ashton opened as a boutique hotel in 2001, it restored the building to its early splendor. WHAT YOU’LL FIND JUST OUTSIDE: The Ashton sits in the middle of Fort Worth’s historic Sundance Square district, an immaculately restored stretch of turnof-the-20th-century buildings and redbrick streets that hosts frequent outdoor events. The hotel is also only a block away from Fort Worth’s crown jewel, the Bass Performance Hall, a 2,000-seat theater built in 1998 that boasts world-class acoustics and European opera-house ornamentation. DESIGN NOTES: Billed as “The City’s Only Small Luxury Hotel,” the Ashton looks as if it belongs in downtown Paris rather than deepest Texas, with a sweeping awning, wrought-iron balconies and monarchical guest rooms with high ceilings, kingsize beds and heavy curtains worthy of Louis XIV. During the evenings, post-bop jazz was through the halls.
The Peninsula Manila
HOT DISH: Not surprisingly, given Fort Worth’s longtime status as a booming cale town, the Ashton’s Six 10 Grille serves up impressive cuts of beef, including a ribeye sourced from the renowned Niman Ranch. Oddly, in a landlocked frontier city, the best item on the menu might be the seafood risoo, packed with wharf-fresh lobster, red shrimp, sea bass and scallops.
PHILIPPINES
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COURTESY OF THE PENINSULA MANILA (PHILIPPINES); COURTESY OF THE ASHTON (FORT WORTH)
LOBBY DESIGN: A curious mix of eastern exoticism and European pomp, with neoclassical balustrades flanked by six towering palm trees. Take tea at one of the many substantial tables and soak up the eclectic atmosphere, as business deals are inked alongside quiet romantic liaisons and boisterous family reunions.
APRIL 2014 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM
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T H E D AT I N G S C E N E
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