Germany - Lonely Planet [PDF]

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Germany Hamburg & the North Lower Saxony & Bremen

p643

Berlin p54

p595

Cologne & Northern Rhineland p462

Around Berlin p124

Central Germany

Saxony

p526

p140

Frankfurt & Southern Rhineland p370

Bavaria Stuttgart & the Black Forest p306

p227

Munich p182

THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY

Andrea Schulte-Peevers, Kerry Christiani, Marc Di Duca, Catherine Le Nevez, Tom Masters, Ryan Ver Berkmoes, Benedict Walker

PLAN YOUR TRIP Welcome to Germany . . . . 6 Germany’s Top 18. . . . . . . 10 Need to Know. . . . . . . . . . 20 First Time Germany. . . . . 22 What’s New . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 If You Like.... . . . . . . . . . . . 25 Month by Month. . . . . . . . 29 itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 Germany Outdoors. . . . . . 37 Eat & Drink Like a Local. . 41 Travel with Children. . . . . 46 Regions at a Glance. . . . . 50

DANIEL SCHOENEN/LOOK-FOTO/GETTY IMAGES ©

BLACK FOREST P328

ON THE ROAD BERLIN . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 AROUND BERLIN. . . 124 Potsdam. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126 Sachsenhausen Concentration Camp. . . . . 133 Spreewald . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134 Brandenburg an der Havel. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137 Frankfurt (Oder). . . . . . . . . 138 Chorin & Niederfinow . . . . 139

SAXONY. . . . . . . . . . . 140 Dresden . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 141 Around Dresden . . . . . . . 155 Schloss & Park Pillnitz . . . 155 Schloss Weesenstein. . . . . 156 Schloss Moritzburg . . . . . . 157 Meissen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 157 Saxon Switzerland. . . . . 158 Bastei & Rathen. . . . . . . . . 159 Königstein. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 159 Bad Schandau . . . . . . . . . 160 Leipzig & Western Saxony . . . . . . . 161 Leipzig . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161 Chemnitz. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 173 Eastern Saxony. . . . . . . . 175 Görlitz. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175 Zittau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 180

BRIAN T. EVANS/GETTY IMAGES ©

MUNICH . . . . . . . . . . 182 Around Munich. . . . . . . . 224 Dachau. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 224 Schleissheim. . . . . . . . . . . 225 Starnberg . . . . . . . . . . . . . 226

BAVARIA . . . . . . . . . . 227 PRETZELS P45

Bavarian Alps . . . . . . . . 230 Füssen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 230 Wieskirche. . . . . . . . . . . . . 233

Schloss Linderhof . . . . . . 233 Oberammergau . . . . . . . . 235 Ettal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 236 Garmisch-Partenkirchen. . 236 Mittenwald. . . . . . . . . . . . . 240 Oberstdorf. . . . . . . . . . . . . 240 Andechs. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 241 Bad Tölz. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 242 Chiemsee. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 243 Berchtesgaden. . . . . . . . . 245 The Romantic Road . . . . 247 Würzburg. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 248 Rothenburg ob der Tauber. . . . . . . . . . . . . 253 Dinkelsbühl. . . . . . . . . . . . . 257 Nördlingen. . . . . . . . . . . . . 258 Donauwörth. . . . . . . . . . . .260 Augsburg. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 261 Landsberg am Lech. . . . . 264 Nuremberg & Franconia. . . . . . . . . . . . . 265 Nuremberg . . . . . . . . . . . . 265 Bamberg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 276 Bayreuth . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 280 Coburg. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 282 Altmühltal Nature Park. . . . . . . . . . . . 283 Eichstätt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 287 Regensburg & the Danube . . . . . . . . . . . 289 Regensburg. . . . . . . . . . . . 289 Around Regensburg. . . . . 295 Ingolstadt . . . . . . . . . . . . . 295 Landshut. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 298 Passau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 299 Bavarian Forest. . . . . . . . . 304

STUTTGART & THE BLACK FOREST. . . . 306 Stuttgart . . . . . . . . . . . . 308 Around Stuttgart . . . . . . 317 Max-Eyth-See . . . . . . . . . . . 317

Contents Grabkapelle Württemberg. . . . . . . . . . . . 317 Ludwigsburg. . . . . . . . . . . . 317 Maulbronn. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 318 Swabian Alps & Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 318 Tübingen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 318 Burg Hohenzollern. . . . . . . 321 Schwäbisch Hall. . . . . . . . . 321 Ulm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 323 The Black Forest. . . . . . . 328 Baden-Baden . . . . . . . . . . 328 Karlsruhe . . . . . . . . . . . . . 333 Freudenstadt. . . . . . . . . . . 335 Kinzig Valley . . . . . . . . . . . 337 Alpirsbach. . . . . . . . . . . . . 337 Schiltach . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 340 Gutach . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 340 Haslach . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 341 Gengenbach . . . . . . . . . . . . 341 Freiburg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 342 Schauinsland . . . . . . . . . . 348 Steinwasen Park. . . . . . . . 348 Todtnauer Wasserfall. . . . 349 St Peter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 349 Breisach. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 349 Feldberg. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 350 Titisee-Neustadt. . . . . . . .350 Schluchsee . . . . . . . . . . . . . 351 Triberg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 353 Stöcklewaldturm . . . . . . . 354 Martinskapelle . . . . . . . . . 354 VillingenSchwenningen . . . . . . . . . 354 Rottweil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 356 Unterkirnach. . . . . . . . . . . 356 Lake Constance . . . . . . . 357 Konstanz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 358 Mainau Island. . . . . . . . . . 363 Reichenau Island . . . . . . . 363 Meersburg. . . . . . . . . . . . . 364 Pfahlbauten. . . . . . . . . . . . 365

Birnau. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Affenberg Salem . . . . . . . Schloss Salem . . . . . . . . . Friedrichshafen. . . . . . . . . Ravensburg. . . . . . . . . . . . Lindau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

365 365 366 366 367 368

FRANKFURT & SOUTHERN RHINELAND . . . . . . . 370 Frankfurt am Main. . . . . 371 Around Frankfurt . . . . . 398 Wiesbaden. . . . . . . . . . . . . 398 Mainz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 402 Darmstadt. . . . . . . . . . . . . 407 Heidelberg & Around. . . 410 Heidelberg. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 410 Speyer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 419 Schloss Schwetzingen. . . 422 Mannheim. . . . . . . . . . . . . 422 Worms . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 424 Lorsch Abbey . . . . . . . . . . 427 German Wine Route. . . . 427 Neustadt an der Weinstrasse . . . . . . . . 428 Deidesheim. . . . . . . . . . . . 429 Bad Dürkheim. . . . . . . . . . 430 The Romantic Rhine Valley. . . . . . . . . . 432 Rüdesheim & Around . . . 433 Bingen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 435 Burg Rheinstein . . . . . . . . 436 Burg Reichenstein . . . . . . 436 Bacharach. . . . . . . . . . . . . 436 Pfalzgrafstein . . . . . . . . . . 437 Oberwesel . . . . . . . . . . . . . 437 Loreley & St Goarshausen . . . . . . . . 439 St Goar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 439 Boppard. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 439 Braubach. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 441 Koblenz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 441

The Moselle Valley. . . . 444 Alken. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 445 Burg Eltz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 445 Cochem . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 445 Beilstein. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 446 Traben-Trarbach. . . . . . . . 447 Bernkastel-Kues. . . . . . . . 449 Trier . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 451 Saarland. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 457 Saarbrücken . . . . . . . . . . . 457 Around Saarbrücken. . . . . 461

COLOGNE & NORTHERN RHINELAND . . . . . . . 462 Cologne . . . . . . . . . . . . . 463 The Rhineland. . . . . . . . . 478 Brühl. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 478 Bonn. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 479 Siebengebirge. . . . . . . . . . 483 Remagen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 484 The Ahr Valley & the Eifel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 484 Aachen. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 486 Eifel National Park. . . . . . 492 Düsseldorf. . . . . . . . . . . . . 492 Lower Rhine . . . . . . . . . . . 503 The Ruhrgebiet. . . . . . . 505 Essen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 506 Dortmund . . . . . . . . . . . . . 508 Elsewhere in the Ruhrgebiet . . . . . . . . . . 510 Münster & Osnabrück. . 512 Münster. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 512 Münsterland . . . . . . . . . . . . 518 Osnabrück. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 519 Ostwestfalen. . . . . . . . . 520 Soest . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 521 Paderborn . . . . . . . . . . . . . 522 Sauerland . . . . . . . . . . . . 524 Altena. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 525

ON THE ROAD LOWER SAXONY & BREMEN. . . . . . . . . . . 595

Fairy-Tale Road . . . . . . . . 527 Hanau & Steinau . . . . . . . 530 Fulda. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 530 Marburg. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 531 Nationalpark ­ Kellerwald-Edersee . . . . . 533 Kassel. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 534 Göttingen. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 537 Bad Karlshafen. . . . . . . . . 539 Hamelin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 539 Thuringia. . . . . . . . . . . . . 541 Erfurt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 542 Weimar. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 548 Schmalkalden. . . . . . . . . . 554 Eisenach . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 555 Mühlhausen. . . . . . . . . . . . . 557 Kyffhäuser Mountains. . . 559 Gotha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 560 Jena . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 561 Saale-Unstrut Region . . . 564 Harz Mountains . . . . . . 566 Goslar. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 567 Bad Harzburg . . . . . . . . . . . 571 Wernigerode . . . . . . . . . . . . 572 Schierke. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 574 Quedlinburg . . . . . . . . . . . . 574 Gernrode . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 577 Thale. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 577 Saxony-Anhalt. . . . . . . . . 578 Lutherstadt Wittenberg. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 579 Dessau-Rosslau . . . . . . . . 583 Gartenreich Dessau-Wörlitz . . . . . . . . . 587 Magdeburg . . . . . . . . . . . . 588 Halle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 591 Lutherstadt Eisleben. . . . 593

Hanover & the East . . . . 598 Hanover. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 598 Celle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 609 Bergen-Belsen . . . . . . . . . . 611 Hildesheim . . . . . . . . . . . . . 612 Braunschweig. . . . . . . . . . . 614 Wolfenbüttel . . . . . . . . . . . . 616 Wolfsburg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 617 Bremen & the East Frisian Coast . . . . . 619 Bremen City . . . . . . . . . . . 620 Bremerhaven . . . . . . . . . . . 631 Worpswede . . . . . . . . . . . . 632

CAROLA KOSEROWSKY/GETTY IMAGES ©

CENTRAL GERMANY. . . . . . . . . 526

Oldenburg . . . . . . . . . . . . . Emden & Around . . . . . . . Jever. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . East Frisian Islands . . . . .

633 635 636 637

HAMBURG & THE NORTH. . . . . . . . . . . . 643 Hamburg . . . . . . . . . . . . 646 Around Hamburg . . . . . . 670 Stade . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 671 Lüneburg. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 671 Schleswig-Holstein . . . . 673 Lübeck. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 674 Travemünde. . . . . . . . . . . . . 681 Kiel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 681

Contents UNDERSTAND Laboe. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Schleswig. . . . . . . . . . . . . . Flensburg. . . . . . . . . . . . . . Glücksburg . . . . . . . . . . . . Husum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Sylt. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Helgoland . . . . . . . . . . . . . Schwerin & the Mecklenburg Lake Plains. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Schwerin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Güstrow. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Neubrandenburg . . . . . . .

683 683 686 687 687 688 692 692 692 697 698

Coastal Mecklenburg – Western Pomerania . . . 699 Rostock . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 699 Warnemünde. . . . . . . . . . . . 701 Baltic Coastal Resorts. . . 702 Wismar. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 703 Stralsund. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 705 Rügen Island. . . . . . . . . . . 709 Greifswald . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 712 Usedom Island . . . . . . . . . . 714

Germany Today . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 716 History. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 718 The German People. . . . 736 Food & Drink. . . . . . . . . . 740 Literature, Theatre & Film. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 747 Music . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 751 Visual Arts. . . . . . . . . . . . 754 Architecture . . . . . . . . . . 758 Landscapes & Wildlife. . 761

SURVIVAL GUIDE Directory A–Z . . . . . . . . . 766 Transport. . . . . . . . . . . . . 777 Language. . . . . . . . . . . . . 789 Index. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 798 Map Legend. . . . . . . . . . . 814

SPECIAL FEATURES Berlin Wall illustrated map. . . . . . . . . 62

Landscapes colour feature. . . . . . . . . 338

Museuminsel illustrated map. . . . . . . . . 70

Historic Marvels colour feature. . . . . . . . . 500

Architectural Icons colour feature. . . . . . . . . . 88 BURG KATZ P439

Small Town Charmers colour feature. . . . . . . . . 284

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

33

Itineraries B A LT I C SEA NORTH SEA

BERLIN

_ #

POLAND

NETHERLANDS

É

Dresden • #

Cologne • #

BELGIUM

É

Romantic Rhine # • Mainz # Rothenburg Bacharach • ob der # LUXEMBOURG Worms • Tauber • # • # • # Nuremberg Heidelberg É

• #

CZECH REPUBLIC

É

• #

Dinkelsbühl FRANCE

SLOVAKIA Munich

# Zugspitze •

É

(2962m) Füssen • # • R# GarmischPartenkirchen

SWITZERLAND

AUSTRIA

HUNGARY

2 KS Top of the Pops

WEE

Bookended by great cities, this road trip is a fine introduction for first-timers that lets you sample the best of German culture, character, architecture and landscapes. Kick off in Berlin to sample its top-notch museums, old and bold architecture and nice-to-naughty nightlife. Next, head to show-stopping Dresden, sitting proud and pretty in its baroque splendour on the Elbe River. Push south to Nuremberg, with its evocative walled medieval centre, and on to Munich to wrap up a day of palace- and museum-hopping with an evening in a beer garden. Drive to Garmisch-­Partenkirchen to breathe the fresh Alpine air on an exhilarating train-and-cable-car trip up the Zugspitze, then get up early the next day to beat the crowds swarming ‘Mad’ King Ludwig II’s Schloss Neuschwanstein in Füssen. In the afternoon, point the compass north for the Romantic Road, possibly overnighting in Dinkelsbühl or Rothenburg ob der Tauber. Next, cut west to historic Heidelberg, with its romantically ruined fortress, then north to Worms and Mainz with their majestic Romanesque cathedrals. After a night in enchanting Bacharach, follow the Romantic Rhine through fairy-tale scenery before winding up in cosmopolitan Cologne for church-hopping, great art and rustic beer halls.

34

É

BELGIUM

PL A N YO U R TRI P I t i n e r a r i e s

LUXEMBOURG

Koblenz • # # Boppard • # Bacharach • • # Mainz

• # Frankfurt

CZECH REPUBLIC

• # Würzburg

Rothenburg

# Heidelberg •

• # ob der Tauber

É • # Baden-

É

Baden

• # Gengenbach • # Schiltach • #

FRANCE • #

Triberg Freiburg É

# Munich •

Lake Constance • #

É

Füssen

É

SWITZERLAND

• #

• #

Garmisch-Partenkirchen AUSTRIA

2 KS Biggest Hits of the South

WEE

This driving route links the most storied stops in Germany’s south, including majestic mountains, legendary rivers, historic towns, half-timbered villages and lordly palaces. Start in Frankfurt, where you can soak up culture in world-class museums, cider in traditional taverns and skyline views from the Main river promenade. Steer northwest to Koblenz, the gateway to the Romantic Rhine, a scene-stealing combo of steeply terraced vineyards, medieval castles and higgledy-piggledy villages. Say hello to the legendary Loreley as you follow the western river bank south, perhaps stopping in postcard-pretty Boppard and fairy-tale-like Bacharach, or fancying yourself knight or damsel for a night in a luxurious castle hotel. The next morning, make a quick stop in Mainz, where Johannes Gutenberg ushered in the information age by inventing moveable printing type. Next, follow in the footsteps of Mark Twain in bewitching Heidelberg, Germany’s oldest university town, where you shouldn’t miss a tour of the imposing hilltop castle. Take a day’s break from culture in Baden-Baden, the legendary spa resort where royals, celebrities, politicians and mere mortals have for centuries frolicked in elegant bathing temples. From here go cuckoo for the Black Forest, an intoxicating mosaic of forest-cloaked hills, glacial lakes, snug valleys and half-timbered villages such as Gengenbach, Schiltach and Triberg. Build in at least half a day in student-flavoured Freiburg, with its imposing minster; it’s the place to enjoy crisp local wine alfresco amid tangled cobbled lanes. From here cut east to the vast Lake Constance and follow its scenic northern shore, perhaps stopping in pretty Meersburg, at the prehistoric Pfahlbauten (pile dwellings) or in Friedrichshafen, the birthplace of the Zeppelin airship. Consider overnighting in lovely Lindau, a teensy, alley-laced island. You’re now in Bavaria, en route to the fabled Schloss Neuschwanstein in Füssen and on to Garmisch-Partenkirchen, where a train-and-cable-car combo delivers you to the top of the Zugspitze, Germany’s highest Alpine peak. Come back down to earth in a beer hall in Munich before wrapping up your journey with a couple of days on the Romantic Road. Essential stops include Rothenburg ob der Tauber and Würzburg, from where it’s a quick drive back to Frankfurt.

35 B A LT I C SEA NORTH SEA

_ #

NETHERLANDS

POLAND

÷ É Spreewald # Cologne É

BELGIUM

Dresden

Erfurt• # #•

• #

• #

Weimar

Boppard

É

• #

• # • #Mainz • # Bamberg Bacharach # LUXEMBOURG Worms • • #Nuremberg • # # Heidelberg Speyer • • #

É

FRANCE

• # Görlitz

# Freiburg •

Altmühltal ÷ Nature Park # BadenBaden Schloss Neuschwanstein • #

• #

Regensburg

SLOVAKIA

Munich

• #

É

• #

Meersburg • # Lindau SWITZERLAND

CZECH REPUBLIC

R Zugspitze (2962m)

AUSTRIA

HUNGARY

4KS Tour de Germany

WEE

With a month at your disposal, this epic trip offers the mother lode of soul-stirring landscapes and villages but also lets you experience urban edginess in Germany’s top cities. It’s best done by car but a train-and-bus combo is also an option. Base yourself in Berlin for a few days and add a one-day excursion to park-and-palacefilled Potsdam. Kayak or canoe around the canal-laced Spreewald before embarking on a quick detour to Görlitz on the Polish border, one of Germany’s best-preserved small towns. Set aside two days to get acquainted with the cultural riches of Dresden, then continue on to Weimar and Erfurt to walk in the footsteps of Germany’s greatest intellects. Spend the next three days exploring a trio of evocative medieval gems: compact Bamberg with its romantic old town; the powerhouse of Nuremberg that is also (in) famous for its Third Reich legacy; and Regensburg, a lively university town founded by the ­Romans and studded with medieval townhouses overlooking the coursing Danube. Wend your way towards Munich via the enchanting Altmühltal Nature Park, best savoured slowly, on foot, by bike or by boat. Make a study of Munich for a few days, perhaps folding day trips up the Zugspitze and to King Ludwig II’s Schloss Neuschwanstein into your itinerary. Continue west to Lake Constance, where stops should include enchanting Lindau and picture-perfect Meersburg. Revel in the youthful spirit of ancient Freiburg for a day, then steer north for scenic drives through the Black Forest, ending in Baden-Baden for the night. Relax in the town’s thermal spas before moving on to Heidelberg, with its ancient student taverns and charismatic ruined castle. Cut across the Rhine to Speyer for a spin around its Romanesque cathedral, then compare it to its upriver cousins in Worms and Mainz. You’re in the heart of wine country now, so sample the local tipple in idyllic villages like Bacharach or Boppard as you follow the Romantic Rhine north through dramatic castle-studded scenery. Your grand tour culminates in Cologne; its magnificent cath­ edral will come into view long before you’ve reached town. Great museums, Romanesque churches and Rhenish joie de vivre will easily keep you entertained for a day or two.

PL A N YO U R TRI P I t i n e r a r i e s

BERLIN # Potsdam •

36 NORTH SEA

• # # Hamburg •

# Bremen •

É

• # Schwerin

NETHERLANDS

BELGIUM

• #

• # Cologne

É

PL A N YO U R TRI P I t i n e r a r i e s

É

# Bremerhaven •

Lübeck

Aachen

Beilstein

Boppard

1

WEE

K

É

LUXEMBOURG FRANCE

CZECH REPUBLIC

• #

Bacharach • # • # Mainz • # Bernkastel-Kues • # Trier • #

Along the Rhine & Moselle

This scenic journey folds grand architecture, absorbing history, world-class art and fine wine into one enticing package. Start in Cologne, where you can stand in awe of the twin-spired Kölner Dom, explore engaging museums dedicated to chocolate, contemporary art or sports and spend an evening guzzling Kölsch beer in a Rhenish tavern. Head to Aachen to walk in the footsteps of Charlemagne and munch on a crunchy Printen cookie, then travel back in time another few centuries in storied Trier. More than 2000 years old, it’s home to some of the finest Roman monuments north of the Alps. The following day, mosey along the Moselle River, which runs its serene, serpentine course past steep vineyards to meet the Rhine at Koblenz. En route, swoon over crisp riesling in half-timbered Bernkastel-Kues or fairy-tale Beilstein, then compare it with wines grown in the slate-rich Rhine soil. Follow the Rhine south as it sweeps past picture-postcard villages like Boppard and Bacharach, craggy cliffs crowned by medieval castles, and near-vertical vineyards. Wrap up in Mainz with its grand cathedral and fabulous museum dedicated to moveable type inventor and local boy Johannes Gutenberg.

Along the Rhine and Moselle Hanseatic Highlights

Hanseatic 1EK Highlights E W This itinerary hops around northern Germany to delightful cities shaped by the sea and a long mercantile tradition rooted in the medieval Hanseatic League. You can drive it, but thanks to fast and direct connections, it’s just as easily done by train. Kick-off in cosmopolitan Hamburg, a maritime city that cradles an elegant historic centre, a converted docklands quarter, the red-brick Speicherstadt (warehouse district) and a gloriously seedy party and redlight district under its self-confident mantle. Venture on to enchanting Lübeck, where the landmark Holsten Gate is a shutterbug favourite. Try the delicious local marzipan before heading to pastoral Schwerin, a cultural hub hemmed in by crystalline lakes. Sitting pretty on an island in one of them is the much-photographed, golden-domed Schloss Schwerin. Carry on to Bremen, the northern terminus of the ‘Fairy-Tale Road’. After greeting the statue of the Town Musicians, check out Expressionist architecture, mummified corpses and the Beck’s brewery before partying till dawn in Das Viertel. Steer north to Bremerhaven, the port of dreams for millions hoping for a better life in the New World. The superb German Emigration Centre tells their story.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

814

Map Legend Sights Beach Bird Sanctuary Buddhist Castle/Palace Christian Confucian Hindu Islamic Jain Jewish Monument Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Ruin Shinto Sikh Taoist Winery/Vineyard Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Other Sight

Activities, Courses & Tours Bodysurfing Diving Canoeing/Kayaking Course/Tour Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Skiing Snorkelling Surfing Swimming/Pool Walking Windsurfing Other Activity

Sleeping Sleeping Camping

Eating Eating

Drinking & Nightlife Drinking & Nightlife Cafe

Entertainment Entertainment

Shopping Shopping

Information Bank Embassy/Consulate Hospital/Medical Internet Police Post Office Telephone Toilet Tourist Information Other Information

Geographic Beach Gate Hut/Shelter Lighthouse Lookout Mountain/Volcano Oasis Park Pass Picnic Area Waterfall

Population Capital (National) Capital (State/Province) City/Large Town Town/Village

Transport Airport Border crossing Bus Cable car/Funicular Cycling Ferry Metro station Monorail Parking Petrol station S-Bahn/S-train/Subway station Taxi T-bane/Tunnelbana station Train station/Railway Tram Tube station U-Bahn/Underground station Other Transport

Routes Tollway Freeway Primary Secondary Tertiary Lane Unsealed road Road under construction Plaza/Mall Steps Tunnel Pedestrian overpass Walking Tour Walking Tour detour Path/Walking Trail

Boundaries International State/Province Disputed Regional/Suburb Marine Park Cliff Wall

Hydrography River, Creek Intermittent River Canal Water Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Reef

Areas Airport/Runway Beach/Desert Cemetery (Christian) Cemetery (Other) Glacier Mudflat Park/Forest Sight (Building) Sportsground Swamp/Mangrove

Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Tom Masters Saxony Tom hails from London, but has lived in Berlin since 2009 and has travelled widely all over Germany in that time. During research for this book, he particularly enjoyed his time discovering Leipzig’s secret life beyond the Altstadt, walking in Saxon Switzerland, the gorgeousness that is Görlitz and getting to know Dresden. More of Tom’s work can be found at www.tommasters.net. Read more about Tom at: https://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/tommasters

Ryan Ver Berkmoes Cologne & Northern Rhineland, Hamburg & the North Ryan Ver Berkmoes once lived in Germany for three years, in Frankfurt, during which time he edited a magazine until he got a chance for a new career with Lonely Planet. One of his first jobs was working on Lonely Planet’s Germany coverage. He loves smoked fish, which serves him well in the north, and beer, which serves him pretty well everywhere in Germany. Follow him at ryanverberkmoes.com and @ryanvb Read more about Ryan at: https://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/ryanvb

Benedict Walker Lower Saxony, Central Germany Currently hanging by the beach near his Mum, in hometown Newcastle, Ben is living his dreams, travelling the world for Lonely Planet. So far, Ben has co-written Lonely Planet’s Japan, Canada, Florida and Australia guidebooks. This is his first time writing for the Germany team, soon to be followed with Vietnam. Otherwise, he’s written and directed a play, toured Australia managing travel for rockstars and is an avid photographer toying with his original craft of film-making. He’s an advocate of following your dreams – they can come true. For updates, see www.wordsandjourneys.com.

OUR STORY

A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

OUR WRITERS

Andrea Schulte-Peevers Coordinating author, Berlin, Around Belin Born and raised in Germany and educated in London and at UCLA, Andrea has travelled the distance to the moon and back in her visits to some 75 countries, but her favourite place in the world is still Berlin. She’s written about her native country for two decades and authored or contributed to some 80 Lonely Planet titles, including all editions of this guide, the Discover Germany guide, the Berlin city guide and Pocket Berlin. Read more about Andrea at: https://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/Andreaschultepeevers

Kerry Christiani Stuttgart & the Black Forest Having lived for six years in the Black Forest, Kerry returned to this neck of the woods (her second home) to write her chapters. Summer hikes in the forest, bike rides on Lake Constance and going on the trail of Mozart and Maria in Salzburg kept her busy for this edition. She tweets @ kerrychristiani and lists her latest work at www.kerrychristiani.com. Kerry also wrote the Outdoors, Eat Like a Local, Travel with Children, Food & Drink and Landscapes & Wildlife chapters.

Read more about Kerry at: https://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/Kerrychristiani

Marc Di Duca Munich, Bavaria A well-established travel-guide author, Marc has explored many corners of Germany over the last 25 years, but it’s to the quirky variety and friendliness of Bavaria that he returns most willingly. When not hiking Alpine valleys, eating snowballs in Rothenburg ob der Tauber or brewery-hopping in Bamberg, he can be found in Sandwich, Kent, where he lives with his wife, Tanya, and their two sons.

Read more about Marc at: https://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/Madidu

Catherine Le Nevez Frankfurt & Southern Rhineland Catherine’s wanderlust kicked in when she first roadtripped across Europe – including Germany – aged four, and she’s been roadtripping here ever since, completing her Doctorate of Creative Arts in Writing, Masters in Professional Writing, and post-grad qualifications in Editing and Publishing along the way. Catherine has worked as a freelance writer for many years and over the last decade-plus she’s written scores of Lonely Planet guides and articles covering destinations all over Germany, Europe and beyond. Read more about Catherine at: http://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/catherine_le_nevez

OVER MORE PAG E WRITERS Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

ABN 36 005 607 983 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the 8th edition – March 2016 accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum ISBN 978 1 74321 023 9 extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. © Lonely Planet 2016 Photographs © as indicated 2016 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

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Friedrichshain S9 Kreuzberg L11 Museuminsel (Museum Island) M8 Prenzlauer Berg N2 Scheunenviertel L5 Schöneberg C12 Tiergarten E8 Western Kreuzberg H11 Sights Akademie der Künste C7 Akademie der Künste H8 Alexanderplatz N6 Alte Nationalgalerie L6 Altes Museum L7 Anne Frank Zentrum M6 Astronaut Mural P12 Aufbau Haus N11 Automobil Forum Unter den Linden K7 Bauhaus Archiv D10 Bebelplatz K7 Berlin Wall Segments H9 Berlin Wall Watchtower Erna-BergerStrasse H9 Berlin Zoo Elephant Gate Entrance B10 Berliner Dom M7 Berliner Medizinhistorisches Museum G5 Berlinische Galerie L10 Block der Frauen M6 Blücher Platz K12 Bodemuseum L6 Boulevard der Stars G9 Brandenburger Tor & Pariser Platz H7 Brecht-Weigel Gedenkstätte J4 Bundeskanzleramt F6 C/O Berlin K5 Café Sibylle R7 Charité-Platz H6 Checkpoint Charlie K10 Computerspielemuseum S7 Contemporary Fine Arts L7

Daimler Contemporary G9 Dalí Die Ausstellung H9 DDR Museum M7 Denkmal der Spanienkämpfer Q5 Denkmal des Polnischen Soldaten und des deutschen Antifaschismus R4 Denkmal für die im Nationalsozialismus verfolgten Homosexuellen H8 Der Verlassene Raum L4 Deutscher Dom K8 Deutsches Currywurst Museum K9 Deutsches Historisches Museum L7 Deutsches Technikmuseum H12 Diplomatenviertel E9 Dorotheenstädtischer Friedhof J5 DZ Bank H8 East Side Gallery S11 Emil Nolde Museum K8 Ephraim-Palais M8 Europa-Center B10 Fernsehturm N6 FHXB Friedrichshain-Kreuzberg Museum O11 Filmmuseum G9 Former Reichsluftfahrtministerium J9 Französischer Dom K8 Friedhof der Märzgefallenen R6 Friedrich-LudwigJahn-Sportpark M1 Friedrichstadtpassagen K8 Friedrichswerdersche Kirche L8 Gedenkstätte Berliner Mauer J3 Gedenkstätte Deutscher Widerstand E9 Gedenkstätte Stille Helden M6 Gemäldegalerie F9 Gendarmenmarkt K8 Hackesche Höfe M6

Hamburger Bahnhof – Museum für Gegenwart G4 Hanf Museum N7 Hansa Studios & Meistersaal H10 Haus der Kulturen der Welt F7 Haus Schwarzenberg M6 Heckmannhöfe K5 Hitler’s Bunker H8 Holocaust Memorial H8 Humboldt-Box L7 IM Pei Bau L7 Jüdische Mädchenschule L5 Jüdischer Friedhof Schönhauser Allee N3 Jüdisches Museum K11 Kaiser-WilhelmGedächtniskirche A10 Kammermusiksaal F9 Karl-Marx-Allee R7 Karlplatz H6 Knoblauchhaus M7 Kollwitzplatz O3 Kulturbrauerei O2 Kunstgewerbemuseum F9 Kunsthaus Tacheles K5 Künstlerhaus Bethanien O12 Kupferstichkabinett F9 KW Institute for Contemporary Art L5 Lads Mural S12 Legoland Discovery Centre G9 Leipziger Platz H9 Leviathan Mural S11 Loxx am Alex Miniatur Welten Berlin O7 Lutherbrücke D7 Madame Tussauds H7 Märchenbrunnen P5 Marie-ElisabethLüders-Haus H6 Marienkirche M6 Märkisches Museum O8 Martin-Gropius-Bau H10 Matthäuskirche F9 Mauer Panorama K9 Mauermuseum K10 Max Planck Science Gallery K8 Me Collectors Room L5

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It’s rather ironic that Berlin’s biggest tourist attraction no longer exists. To get under the skin of the Berlin Wall mystery, build a visit of this indoor-outdoor memorial into your schedule. (www.berliner-mauer-gedenkstaette.de; Bernauer Strasse; S-Bahn Nordbahnhof, Bernauer Strasse)

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Manteuffelstr Q11 Museum für Film M est undHauptbahnhof Fernsehen The (central train station) Leipziger â # r Ko Marchlewskistr S8 Information Philharmonie Sony Center Platz served by bus, U-Bahn (underground/ iergart en s tr # æ Legoland # æ Film- is# # Berlin Wall Sections Lei pzig er Str Marienburger Visit Berlin (www.visitberlin.de) ææ Discovery æ #â Kunstgewerbemuseum # subway) and S-BahnPlatz (light rail). # æ Potsdamer Centre # æ Former Officialâ There’s a call museum #tourist authority. Str P3 Potsdamer Platz # æ Kammermusiksaal U-Bahn Runs from 4am until about ¦ # Reichsluftfa Panoramapunkt emäldegalerie â # centre (%2500 2333), and offices at # æ â # Marienstr H6 # æ Boulevard der Stars 12.30am # á GDR Border throughout the night on # § æ # andDalí Kupferstichkabinett â # Brandenburg Tor (H7), Hauptbahnhof Weinhaus Huth; Die and Watchtower Ber Märkisches Ufer Friday, Saturday public holidays (all Ü # # æ Daimler Ausstellung Erna-Berger-Strasse (G5) and Kurfürstendamm 22. HiMatthäuskirche N8 denkstätte lines except the U4 and U55). Contemporary # æ # æ eutscher Mauerstr J8; K9 S-Bahn S-Bahn trains make fewer stops Neue rstr me Emergencies Zim Staatsbibliothek Kulturforum derstand â # # æ Nationalgalerie # and are handy for longer æ than U-Bahns Ambulance (%112) zu Berlin â # Topographie Michaelkirchstr P9 Hansa Studios distances, but they don’t run as fre- des Terrors Mildred-HarnackMartinFire Department (%112) & Meistersaal Re quently. Operating hoursGropius-Bau are the same. Police (%110) S c ic h p Str R10 hö ne ie ts Bus Buses run frequently between b e ch Mittelstr J7 tr uf rg S r Transport e 4.30am and 12.30am. Night buses take er al t An h Möckernstr The network is operated by BVG (24over in intervening hours, running every H11-H12 ¦ # hour hotline %194 49; www.bvg.de). One 30 minutes. MetroBuses (eg M1, M19) Anhalter MendelssohnMohrenstr K8 # Bartholdy-Park ticket is good for all forms of transport. § operate 24/7. Bahnhof r t rS Mollstr P5 Lü t ge zow er str eb Motzstr C12 n hö Mühlendamm M8 G K Breite Str M8 Mühlenstr R10 BERLIN Brückenstr O9 Mulackstr M5 Gartenstr K4 Kapelleufer G6 Brüderstr M8 Streets Münzstr N6 Geisbergstr B12 Karl-LiebknechtBrunnenstr L2 Muskauer Str Q11 Genthiner Str E11 Str M7 Budapester Str A Gertraudenstr M8 Karl-Marx-Allee N A10; B10 Gipsstr L5 P7-R7 Ackerstr K3-L4 Bülowstr D12 Gitschiner Str L12 Kastanienallee N3 Naunynstr P11 Adalbertstr P11 Neue Rossstr N9 Glinkastr J8 Käthe-NiederAlbrechtstr J6 C Görlitzer Str R12 kirchner-Str Q4 Niederwallstr L8 Alexanderstr O7 Calvinstr D6 Novalisstr J4 Greifswalder Str Kleiststr C11 Almstadtstr N5 Cantianstr N1 Q4 Klingelhöferstr D9 Nürnberger Str Alte Jakobstr L11 Chausseestr H3 A11 Grellstr R1 Kniprodestr R4 Alt-Moabit A5-E6 Chodowieckistr P2 Grosse Hamburger Kochstr J10 Altonaer Str B7 O Choriner Str Str L5 Kollwitzstr O3 Am AlexanderObentrautstr H12 M4-N3 Grunerstr N7 Köpenicker Str platz N6 Oberwasserstr L8 Christburger Gubitzstr R1 P9-Q10 Am Friedrichshain Oderberger Str M2 Str P2 Koppenstr R8 Q4 H Cora-Berliner-Str Kottbusser Str O12 Oppelner Str R12 Amrumer Str C1 Oranienburger H8 Habersaathstr G4 Krausenstr K9 An der Ostbahn Str L6 Cuvrystr S12 Hallesches Ufer Krautstr Q8 R9 Oranienstr M10; J12 Kronenstr K9 An der Urania C11 D O11 Hedwig-WachenKruppstr D3; E3 Andreasstr Q8 Danziger Str Otto-Braun-Str O6 heim-Str S11 Kurfürstenstr Anhalter Str J10 O2-S4 Otto-Dix-Str E5 Heidestr F3 C10-D11 Anklamer Str L3 Dorotheenstr J7 Otto-von-BismarckHeinrich-RollerKurstr L8 Ansbacher Str B12 Dunckerstr O2 Allee G6 Str P4 Anton-SaefkowL Helen-Ernst-Str E Str R2 P S10 Landsberger Str S6 Auerstr S7 Eberswalder Str Palisadenstr R7 Hessische Str H4 Lehrter Str E4 Augsburger Str M2 Pappelallee O1 Hildebrandstr E10 Leipziger Str A11 Ebertstr H9 Pasteurstr R3 Hofjägerallee C8 H9-K9 Auguststr L5 Einemstr D11 Paul-Löbe-Allee G7 Holzmarktstr O8 Lessingstr B6 Axel-Springer-Str Ella-Kay-Str Q2 Paulstr D6 Hosemannstr R1 Lettestr O1 L10 Engeldamm Perleberger Str C4 Hufelandstr Q4 Levetzowstr A6 O10-P10 Pohlstr F11 B Husemannstr O2 Lichtenberger Potsdamer Str Hussitenstr J1 Str P8 F Bachstr A7 F10-F11 Lichtensteinallee Bandelstr D4 Falckensteinstr I Prenzlauer Allee B9 Behrenstr J8-K8 S12 P4 Immanuelkirchstr Lietzenburger Belforter Str O3 Fennstr F2 Prenzlauer Berg P3 Str B11 Bellevueallee E8 Flotwellstr G11 O5 Invalidenstr E5-K4 Lindenstr K11 Bellevuestr G9 Föhrer Str C1 Prinzenstr N11 Linienstr L5-M4 Ben-Gurion-Str G9 Franz-Künstler-Str J Lübbener Str R12 Bergstr K3-L4 Q L11 Jägerstr L8 Luisenstr H4 Bernauer Str Französische Quitzowstr C3 Johannisstr K5 Lützowstr D10-F11 K3-L2 Str K8 John-FosterR Lützowufer D10 Blücherstr K12 Friedenstr Q5 Dulles-Allee F7 Luxemburger Blumenstr P7 Rathenower Str Friedrichstr K9 John-Schehr-Str Str D1 Bötzowstr R3 D4 Fuggerstr B11 R2 Lychener Str O1 Brachvogelstr L12 Regensburger Str A12 Reichenberger Str P12 Images by Brian Cruickshank, John Freeman, Richard Nebesky & David Peevers/Getty Reichpietschufer Images ©, Christian Reister/Imagebroker ©, mkrberlin/Shutterstock ©. 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The 2000-year-old tale of Jews in Germany is a fascinating one, but just as powerful is the heart-wrenching metaphorical language of Daniel Libeskind’s extraordinary zinc-clad museum building. (www.jmberlin.de; Lindenstrasse 9-14; U-Bahn Kochstrasse, Hallesches Tor)

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Egyptian Queen Nefertiti is the most famous resident at this top-ranked museum, which shelters a feast of findings going back to prehistoric times. (www.smb.museum; g100, 200; S-Bahn Hackescher Markt)

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Walk in the footsteps of Greeks, Romans and other ancient societies, whose monumental architecture is showcased in this museum. (www. smb.museum; Bodestrasse 1-3; g100; S-Bahn Hackescher Markt, Friedrichstrasse)

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