Sofia [PDF]

Map Sightseeing Culture Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Shopping Hotels

Sofia August – September 2016

Nº21

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Contents Arriving & Getting Around

5

Get orientated ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES

City Basics

7

What you should know

Culture & Events

9

Highlights for the coming months

NEW IN YOUR POCKET APP In Your Pocket City Essentials is now available for Android and iOS from Google Play Store and the App Store. Featuring more than 45 cities across Europe, In Your Pocket City Essentials is an invaluable resource telling you about our favourite places, carefully picked by our local editors. All venues are mapped and work offline to help you avoid roaming charges while you enjoy the best our cities have to offer. Download In Your Pocket City Essentials now.

Restaurants

11

Places your friends would recommend

Cafes 16 Essential refreshment stops

Nightlife

17

Partying all night long

Sightseeing

19 Don’t go home without having seen some of these places

Shopping

26

Malls, markets and the best streets

Hotels

28

From top luxury to basic hostels

Map

30

City Centre

facebook.com/SofiaInYourPocket

2016

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Foreword Sofia may not be as breathtakingly beautiful as many other Central and Eastern European capitals but it still has plenty going for it: a compact and manageable city centre with some rather pretty Neo-Classical and Secession buildings, antique gold treasures in the museums and Roman ruins dotted around the place. So prolific are the Doric columns that they are simply left lying around the public parks and recent excavation work has uncovered all manner of traces of the Roman city of Serdika, including an amphitheatre, and an old Roman road that has been restored as a tourist attraction. Without a doubt, the gold domes of the Alexander Nevsky cathedral against the backdrop of a perhaps still snow-covered Vitosha Mountain on a crystal clear day is a view that has to be seen! Since April 2013, we have been publishing the Sofia In Your Pocket mini guide print edition every two months, covering the most essential information the short term visitor to Sofia needs. We have now decided to add this new downloadable A5 format guide to our collection to help you get a quick overview of what Sofia has to offer, before you even get here!

Publisher Inside & out Ltd. Office: 9 Frityof Nansen St., 5th floor, Sofia Christine Milner, (+359) 884 864 820 [email protected] Paromita Sanatani, (+359) 888 408 647 [email protected] Published in printed mini guide format 6 times per year. Print run 7,000 copies Editorial Editors Christine Milner, Paromita Sanatani Texts Christine Milner, Paromita Sanatani Design, layout and maps Flo Grafix Ltd. Photography Inside & out Ltd. unless otherwise stated Cover © Inside & out Ltd. Sales Milena Stefanova, (+359) 888 151 256 [email protected]

COVER STORY At the crossroads where once Lenin’s statue stood, Sophia extends her arms in ‘welcome’ to all. Encircled by a synagogue, mosque, orthodox and catholic church we are reminded that her daughters are Faith, Hope and Love. The day of Sofia is celebrated on 17th September.

Copyright notice Text, maps and photos copyright Inside & out Ltd. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

ABOUT IYP ESTONIA RUSSIA

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DUTCH CARIBBEAN SOUTH AFRICA

4 Sofia In Your Pocket

It’s now 22 years since we published the first In Your Pocket guide – to Vilnius in Lithuania – in which time we have grown to become the largest publisher of locally produced city guides in Europe. We now cover more than 100 cities across the continent (with Gudauri, in Georgia, the latest city to be pocketed) and the number of concise, witty, wellwritten and downright indispensable In Your Pocket guides published each year is approaching five million. We will be expanding even further this year, with the publication of a guide to Johannesburg: our first outside of Europe. To keep up to date with all that’s new at In Your Pocket, like us on Facebook (facebook.com/inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket). sofia.inyourpocket.com

Arriving & Getting Around sleepers to the Black Sea Coast. Bulgaria is expecting to have high speed trains to Plovdiv and other destinations in the near future.QA-3, bul. Maria Luiza 102, MCentral railway staion, www.bdz.bg/en/. Open 05:00 – 00:00.

BY BUS

BY PLANE SOFIA INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT Situated on the outskirts of Sofia in the direction of Plovdiv, Sofia airport has two separate terminals. Terminal 1 (the ‘old’ terminal) serves low-cost airlines Wizz Air and Easy Jet while all other flight leave and arrive at Terminal 2. The journey into town takes not more than 30 minutes. The road to the new terminal is clearly marked, turning right off Brussels Blvd. before reaching the older airport buildings. The new terminal is modern, bright and clean although rather bland. You could be anywhere in the world! The cafe in the departure lounge charges outrageous prices for drinks, though there are now vending machines with items at more reasonable prices. Sofia airport’s new terminal has a multi-storey car park with over 800 spaces and it is even quite reasonable to leave your car parked there for several days. Getting to town: Up until recently, there were constant reports of people being ripped off by the taxis hanging around the airport. Book a taxi at the official taxi booth inside the terminal rather than going off with one of the taxi drivers offering their services as you come out of Arrivals. If you can, get someone to meet you at the airport. Most hotels operate a pick up service on request. For those on a budget there are several public transport options that cost 1,60 leva for a one-way ticket. There is a metro (underground) stop at Terminal 2 that will take you to the city centre in about 20 minutes. From there you can change to another line depending on where you need to get to. Bus No. 84 stops at both terminals and travels down bul. Tsarigradsko Shosse via the University to ul. Gurko in Sofia city centre and vice versa.Qwww.sofia-airport.bg.

BY TRAIN CENTRAL TRAIN STATION The modernisation and renovation of the central railway station has finally been completed, making it a far more pleasant experience. There are still a few areas that need completion such as the food court, but for now everything is bright and clean and bustle free. The direct access with the underground is also ideal and it is fairly straightforward to find your way around with signs in Bulgarian and English. Train travel, although inexpensive, is also very slow and unglamorous and the only time that using the train (as opposed to bus) is of preference would be on the overnight facebook.com/SofiaInYourPocket

CENTRAL BUS STATION Sofia’s international bus station (http://tis.centralnaavtogara.bg) is adjacent to the main railways station. Most buses arriving from or going to the countryside or abroad come here. The new, clean facilities, which include a food court, certainly make the idea of bus journey more attractive.

BY CAR Arriving in Sofia by car requires extreme caution as the police seem to like making little speed traps at all entrances to Sofia. If you see that all the other cars have slowed down to a crawl for no apparent reason then stick behind them, do not overtake! Once in Sofia, you will find that many drivers appear to have forgotten some of the basic rules of the road and you should therefore take nothing for granted. Although driving in Sofia may seem to be void of any rules, speed cameras are operational on some of the main entrances to the city, such as Tsarigradsko Shosse Boulevard coming from the airport and Plovdiv direction. There are also cameras at some road junctions to catch anyone skipping traffic lights on red.

CAR PARKING The very heart of the city centre is ‘Blue Zone’, which means you have to pay 2 leva per hour for parking between 08.00 and 19.00 on working days and 08:00 and 14:00 on Saturdays. A maximum stay of 2 hours is allowed. The relatively high price means that parking spaces can usually be found. A ‘Green Zone’ has been created (you can tell whether you are in Blue or Green Zone by the street signs) which costs 1 lev per hour for a maximum of 4 hours. Тhere are also guarded car parks dotted around the city centre, charging between 2 and 3 leva per hour. Vouchers (talon za parking in Bulgarian) are available from nearby attendants. You can also pay by SMS if you have an account with a local GSM operator: send your registration number to the number 1302 for Blue Zone or 1303 for Green Zone.

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Arriving & Getting Around PUBLIC TRANSPORT Sofia’s public transport is getting better and new trams, trolley buses and buses are already running on some of the routes. It is fairly reliable except in the harshest winters and the lack of A/C or even any form of ventilation can be highly unpleasant in the summer months.Trams, trolley buses and buses cover the whole of the city, including the outskirts. Sofia has two underground lines which intersect in the city centre at the Serdika stop. The red line 1 runs from Business Park Sofia( south east) to Slivnitsa (north-west), via the city centre while the blue line 2 runs in a loop from the airport T2 (north east) to Vitosha (south) via Obelya (north-west). Work has just begun on the 3rd line linking districts from the north east to suburbs in the south west of the city. The underground is clean and efficient, though it does get crowded at peak times. Tickets cost 1.60 lev and can be bought from the ticket machines at the entrance to the stations. Bus, trolley bus and tram tickets can be bought for 1.60 leva (new price) from the machine just behind the driver’s cabin. The ticket is only valid for the journey on that particular tram/bus. Many trams and trolley buses now have ticket machines at the front, where you can buy a ticket that does not need punching. Daily, weekly and monthly travel cards can be bought from kiosks as can packs of 10 tickets, which need to be punched in the machine inside. Fines for not having a ticket are payable on the spot.

TAXIS Taxi fares in Sofia have finally been regulated (May 2011) and a maximum fare imposed. This is currently 1.30 leva daytime and 1.60 leva nighttime. Fares are displayed clearly on the back window of the cab as well as on the dashboard. All taxis are yellow (except for Green Taxi) and are generally fairly new, well-kept vehicles, though you may occasionally get the odd unkempt one. Smoking is prohibited but despite this you will find that some Sofia taxi drivers smoke while waiting for a customer; if it bothers you then ask them to put out their cigarette. All taxis in Bulgaria should have the name and contact number of the company clearly displayed on the dashboard as well as the ID number of the driver, enabling you to make a complaint should you wish to. The companies listed here are all reputable, and we recommend you stick to them – however there are still a few rogue drivers out there who try to impersonate established companies and lurk there where tourists wait for cabs. GREEN TAXI Taxi service using hybrid cars. All the cars we’ve used have been clean and new.Qgreentaxi.bg. OK TAXI OK Taxi is the official taxi operator for Sofia Airport, with offices in Arrivals at both terminals. Book your taxi from the office. You can pay by card if you request it upon ordering. Request an English-speaking dispatcher when you call. QTel. (+359) 2 973 2121, www.oktaxi.net. YELLOW QTel. (+359) 2 91 119, yellow333.com. 6 Sofia In Your Pocket

TOURIST INFORMATION The municipality now has three tourist information centres, in key locations where it hands out free maps and brochures depending on availability. They can also recommend and arrange trips or tour guides for you, alternatively join the Free Sofia Tour to get your bearings. TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE (TURISTICHESKI INFORMATSIONEN TSENTAR) CHITALNYATA Glass kiosk in the centre of the City Garden.QC-3, City Garden, MSofiyski Universitet, tel. (+359) 885 921 620. Open 10:00 – 20:00. Closed on public holidays. TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE The tourist info centre is in the underpass at the entrance to the ‘Sofia University’ metro station. Free maps and brochures are handed out depending on availability. Several privately owned English-language publications can also be found there free of charge, though they may be out of date.QC-5, Underpass Sofia University, at the crossroads of bul. Vassil Levski and bul. Tsar Osvoboditel, tel. (+359) 2 491 8344, (+359) 2 491 8345, www.visitsofia.bg, www. info-sofia.bg. Open 09:30 – 18:30. Closed Sat, Sun. TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE LARGO Directly next to the entrance to the underground line 2, in the heart of the city.QC-3, Serdika 2 Metro Station, MSerdika, tel. (+359) 2 494 9315. Open 09:30 – 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun, and on public holidays.

GUIDED TOURS FREE SOFIA TOUR Free Sofia Tour, the best attraction in Sofia according to TripAdvisor users, sets off twice a day – Mon-Sun: 11:00 & 18:00. Starting point is the Palace of Justice, corner of Alabin St. Look out for the young enthusiastic tour guides. No reservation or tickets are required and there is no fee, though if you are satisfied with your guide you are invited to leave a gratuity to this nonprofit organisation.Qwww.freesofiatour.com. 11:0013:00 and 18:00-20:00. sofia.inyourpocket.com

Sofia Basics CRIME AND SAFETY In general Sofia is a relatively safe city, the most frequent crimes are pick-pocketing, mugging and car theft. If you keep your wits about you, as you should in any foreign city and avoid dark poorly lit areas at night, you should be relatively safe within the central parts of the city. Again the obvious precautions apply! Should you be unfortunate enough to have been a victim of local crime, you should file a report at the nearest police station. You will need a Bulgarian speaker for this, and honestly speaking if the crime was relatively petty, it often is not worth the hassle.Then again if you wish to claim on your insurance you will have to go through the process. Visitors to Sofia often fall prey of scams, be it rip-off taxi drivers or being overcharged at restaurants (e.g. they will serve you foreign mineral water – over double the price of local, or talk you into the specials which are usually far more expensive than standard main course dishes)

DISABLED ACCESS There is very little consideration for people with disabilities in Bulgaria. Sofia is almost totally inaccessible for wheel-chair users. Since the European Year for the Disabled, gradual improvements have been made, such as wheelchair ramps to the entrances of state and municipal buildings, Alexander Nevsky cathedral and a few more important sights. One visitor commented on the excellent service at the airport, but from that initial welcome things deteriorated. A particular problem is the state of the pavements, which are not only cracked and full of un-covered manholes, but also often blocked by cars, forcing the pedestrian to walk on the street. Underpasses are also a problem – some have lifts but most have only ramps which are so steep they would be impossible to use for a wheelchair. Most office buildings do not have wheelchair access, though new business centres should do.

DRINKING WATER Tap water is safe to drink all over the country but not always pleasant in taste or appearance. Bulgaria’s vast supplies of mineral water are widely available in 0.5 litre and 1.5 litre bottles. They are very tasty and not expensive.

LANGUAGE & ALPHABET Bulgarian is a Slavic language with close similarities to Russian. By far the biggest obstacle to reading Bulgarian is the Cyrillic alphabet which was developed originally by the missionary brothers Cyril and Methodius. It has 30 letters and pronunciation is entirely phonetic. In the city centre many street names and directions have Latin transliterations but it is still a good idea to familiarise yourself with the alphabet. facebook.com/SofiaInYourPocket

MEDIA AND PRINT Unfortunately there is no longer an English-language newspaper in Bulgaria, though there are a couple of online English-language news sites: The Sofia Globe and Sofia Morning News An excellent annual English-language guide to Sofia. Sofia the Insider’s guide is on sale from March/April onwards each year and provides information about sightseeing, restaurants and bars, as well as a wealth of expat advice to newcomers planning on living or working in the city. They also have a blog.

MONEY The currency in Bulgaria is lev (leva – plural). One lev is 100 stotinki. Coins are 2 leva, 1 lev, 50, 20, 10, 5, 2,1 stotinki Notes: 100, 50, 20, 10, 5 leva and still 2 leva (being phased out) The Euro is fixed at 1.95 leva You can get leva from banks and ATM’s these days with small fluctuations on the fixed rate. We no longer recommend Exchange Bureaus as not all are reputable. NEVER be tempted to exchange money with anyone on the street – you will be cheated!

PHONE CALLS The country code for Bulgaria is +359. If you are using your mobile phone all local numbers must be prefixed with this number, dropping the first zero (0) from the local number. Dialling out the international access code is 00 or + followed by the country code.

PUBLIC HOLIDAYS 1st January – New Years Day 3rd March – National Day 1st May – Labour Day 6th May – St. George’s Day 24th May – Day of Slavonic Literature & Culture 6th September – Day of Reunification 22nd September – Independence Day 24th, 25th, 26th December – Christmas 2016

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Sofia Basics

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PUBLIC TOILETS Public toilets can be found in the main underpass area near Serdika underground station and near the NDK underground station, as well as in other locations around town. there is usually a charge and the attendant will give you your ration of toilet paper. Most of these are old and not very pleasant. Newer toilets, free of charge are found in all the shopping centres, and of course most restaurants and cafes will not turn you away if you are desperate. Try to avoid the chemical toilets at all costs!

RELIGION Bulgarian adopted Christianity in 865 AD. Over 75% of the population subscribe to the main religion; Eastern Orthodox, but on the whole they are very tolerant of other religions. Sofia prides itself in having an Orthodox church, a Catholic church, a mosque and a synagogue all within 1 square km.

SMOKING Bulgarians on the whole are heavy smokers with little consideration for the non-smoker. Since 2012 smoking indoors is banned in all public places,including restaurants. However you will find some very loose interpretations of the law as far as restaurants and other places of work are concerned. In some locations you will find phone numbers to report infringements. Fines are high.

WIFI No shortage of free WIFI in Sofia. Nearly every bar and restaurant offers free WIFI and there is even WIFI available on public buses as well as inter city coaches. Zaimov Park, off Madrid Blvd. near the city centre prides itself with free WIFI coverage.

WHERE TO FIND YOUR COMPLIMENTARY COPY OF SOFIA IYP MINI GUIDE?

On any device. E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

inyourpocket.com 8 Sofia In Your Pocket

In the Tourist Information Centre, National Art Gallery, Archeological Museum, Museum of Socialist Art, the stands of OK taxi at the airport, in all the best hotels in town (Hilton, Radisson, Grand Hotel Sofia, Balkan, Marinela, Park Inn) as well as restaurants and bars around the city (Talents, Spaghetti Kitchen, By the Way, Kanaal, Hadjidraganovite Izbi, and many more). sofia.inyourpocket.com

What’s on Bulgaria has a great cultural tradition that was fostered by years of Communist governments. Even though there is now very little money available for the arts, Bulgaria still boasts world-class opera singers and musicians who mostly reside abroad. You really shouldn’t miss the opportunity to catch one of their performances on their rare visits to their home country. Other forms of art, such as theatre, are less accessible for foreigners due to the language barrier. In the past few years concert organisers have begun to attract big names to Sofia, such as Madonna, Kylie Minogue and Depeche Mode. Their concerts usually take place at football stadiums. Tickets to pop and rock concerts in Sofia are expensive by local standards but still cheaper than they would be abroad. Ticket prices are still relatively inexpensive, though international acts now command high prices. Sofia is the place to give opera, ballet or classical music a try – if it is not to your liking you can always walk out and not much lost. Listed here are the main cultural venues in Sofia and what you can expect to see there. You won’t run out of things to do in Sofia!

NATIONAL PALACE OF CULTURE (NDK) Referred to as NDK: En-De-Ka. Built in 1981 to mark the country’s 13th centennial, it is Sofia’s most prominent modern landmark, housing concert halls, exhibition space, offices, shops and restaurants. Throughout the year (except August) it hosts a variety of cultural events from classical to avant garde; concerts, film festivals, art exhibits, fashion shows and trade fairs as well as major conferences. Hall 1 the largest of 12 halls, seats approximately 4000 and is used for major concerts, including international pop stars, as well as movie premieres. The smaller halls 8 and 9 host classical recitals or chamber music. The various halls and foyers themselves are home to some of the most impressive specially commissioned contemporary art.QD-3, pl. Bulgaria 1, MSerdika, www.ndk.bg. J

CULTURAL VENUES IN SOFIA ARENA ARMEETS New multifunctional sports and concert stadium holding 12 000 for sporting events and up to 18 000 for concerts, 4km from city centre.Qbul. Asen Yordanov 1, tel. (+359) 02 9033 604,/(+359) 02 9033 748 , (+359) 02 9033749. BULGARIA HALL Home to the Sofia Philharmonic Orchestra, this building dates back to the late 1930s and comprises of several concert halls; Bulgaria Hall,which seats 1100, and the smaller Chamber Hall, Marble Studio and Art-gallery. Regular cycles of classical music concerts.QC-4, ul. Aksakov 1, MSofiiski Universitet, tel. (+359) 2 988 3195, www. sofiaphilharmonie.bg. Open 09:30 – 14:30, 15:00 – 19:30, Sat 09:30 – 14:30. Closed Sun, Opening hours are for the ticket office. J­E NATIONAL MUSICAL THEATRE Recently renovated, it stages international operettas and musicals, usually sung in Bulgarian though there are occasional guest performances from abroad.QC-4, bul. Vassil Levski 100, MSofiiski Universitet, tel. (+359) 2 943197 9, www.musictheatre.bg. Open 09:30 – 19:00. Closed Sun. J­E PUPPET THEATRE (KUKLEN TEATAR) Children’s theatre, using a mix of puppets and actors. The lounge is fairly basic and performances are in Bulgarian only but this does not necessarily matter for young children who get caught up in the general atmosphere of excitement.QD-4, ul. Gurko 14, MSerdika, tel. (+359) 2 988 54 16, [email protected], www.sofiapuppet. com. Open 09:00 – 19:00, Sun 09:00 – 15:00, Open hours are for the box office. 2-4 leva. T­J facebook.com/SofiaInYourPocket

SOFIA LIVE CLUB Jazz, pop, rock, alternative music, world music....you name it, it can all be found at Sofia Live Club, with a live music event every single night of the week. Seating 270 people, the club has become one of the favourite venues for small and medium-sized concerts, beating the big and faceless halls of NDK for atmosphere and acoustics.QD-3, pl. Bulgaria 1, National Palace of Culture, underpass, www. sofialiveclub.com. Open 20:00 – 07:00. P­E SOFIA NATIONAL OPERA Built in 1909, the interior of the opera, even though it cannot match Vienna or Prague, still evokes the glamour of that era. Seating 1200, the repertoire is a mix of internationally recognised operas and ballets, usually sung in Bulgarian or Italian.QC-4, ul. Vrabcha 1, MSerdika, tel. (+359) 2 9811549, www.operasofia.bg. Opening hours are for the box office. J­E STUDIO 5 Lovely intimate venue with live music / entertainment nearly every night; on weekends often 2 gigs one early at 19:00 the other at 22:30. The orientation is mainly jazz – 2016

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What’s on although the spectrum is wide! The venue is open from 10:00 so you are always welcome to stop by for a coffee, drink, private meeting or you can also hire the place for a private event. Programme details: http://clubstudio5.com/ archive/programata/QD-3, NDK Entrance A3, MNDK, tel. (+359) 2 963 1254, www.clubstudio5.com. Open 11:00 – 03:00. Admission is charged for certain live music events – usually around 10 leva.

HIGHLIGHTS 27.06 - 12.09 » Under the Stars - SFF

17.09 » Nigel Kennedy & The Sofia Symphonics QNational Palace of Culture, pl. Bulgaria 1, MNDK, 20 - 50 leva. 20:00.

17.09 » Armin Only Embrace Tour

DJ, live bands, dancers and acrobats in a six hour show / party.QArena Armeets, bul. Asen Yordanov 1, MG.M. Dimitrov, tel. (+359) 02 9033 604, 70 - 90 leva. 22:00.

18.09 » Coca Cola Happy Energy Tour

Touring Bulgarian cities throughout the summer with free open-air concerts and local stars. At the time of going to print the Sofia location had not yet been announced.

18.09 » Three stars in Munich

Every Monday evening you can catch a movie in the city centre’s open air cinema.QOne More Cinema, ul.Fritjof Nansen / pl.Bulgaria, MNational Palace of Culture, 6 leva. 21:00.

Anna Netrebko, Jonas Kaufmann and Thomas Hampson in concert, recorded in Munich 2015.QArena Mladost, Mladost 4, Business Park (next to Technopolis), MSofia Business Park, tel. (+359) 2 817 97 00, 15 leva.

Every Sunday in August starting at 16:00 different streets in Sofia are closed to traffic and turned into open air street festivals combining art, cultural events, entertainment for young and old and just great chilling opportunities. 7th August -ul. Denkoglu, Lavale, Bistritsa, 14th - ul.Moskovska, 21st - ul.Shishman, 28th - ul.Alexander I , Saborna and the adjacent city garden.Qsofiadisha.com/locations/.

A festival celebrating all aspects of ‘green living’ here in Bulgaria, including ecologically produced food and cosmetic products, sports activities for young and old and rural traditions and crafts. The organisers are promising a new vision this year - so why not just pop along to the park in front of the National Theatre and see for yourself. QCity Park, MSerdika/Sofia University.

07.08 - 28.08 » Sofia Breathes

13.08 19:00 » Lilly of the West

The charming Lilly and her band will be performing blues, swing and country on the summer stage near the entrance of the park. Do pop along! There is a second concert on 19th August.QBorissova Gradina, MSofiyski Universitet/Vassil Levski Stadium.

30.08 - 10.10 » Gredi Assa

One of the country’s most popular contemporary artists. QEthnographic Museum, pl. Alexander Battenberg 1, MSerdika/Sofiyski Universitet, tel. (+359 2) 988 19 74. Open 10.00-18.00. Closed Mon.

14.09 » Nightwish

QArena Armeets, bul. Asen Yordanov 1, MG.M. Dimitrov, tel. (+359) 02 9033 604.

11.09 - 17.09 SOFIA RESTAURANT WEEK Under the slogan ‘Discover the Tastes of Sofia’ visitors, locals and expats for the very first time in Sofia, get the chance to enjoy a 3 course set dinner at a fixed price of just 25 leva per person (excluding drinks and gratuities) at the 25 participating restaurants. You can enjoy everything from traditional Bulgarian to Indian, steaks to vegan, cosy small restaurants through to the classy Seasons restaurant at the Hilton. Don’t miss this opportunity to check out some of the best venues Sofia has to offer at prices you can afford to eat out every evening! For more details and to book your table, please check out the website & app.Qsofiarestaurantweek.com

10 Sofia In Your Pocket

30.09 - 02.10 » Zeleni Dni

30.09 20:00 » The Eleven 30 Snooker Show

QSala Universiada, ul.Shipchenski Prohod 2, 40 - 100 leva.

09.10 10:00 » Sofia Marathon

QVasil Levski stadium, bul.Evlogi Georgiev 38, MVasil Levski Stadium, tel. (+359) 2 930 0666.

11.10 » Bryan Adams Live

QArena Armeets, bul. Asen Yordanov 1, MG.M. Dimitrov, tel. (+359) 02 9033 604.

19.10 20:00 » IMANY

QD‑3, National Palace of Culture, pl. Bulgaria 1, MNDK, 60 - 110 leva.

22.10 19:30 » Titanic Live

Live Symphony Orchestra with 90 musicians a choir and Celtic musicians will perform James Horner’s award winning soundtrack, accompanied by HD projection of the film. QNational Palace of Culture, pl. Bulgaria 1, MNDK, 40 - 110 leva.

24.10 20:00 » Yamato

The astounding Japanese drummers are back with a new show Baku on - Legend of the heartbeat.QD‑3, National Palace of Culture, pl. Bulgaria 1, MNDK, 30 - 80 leva.

29.10 20:00 » Niyaz feat.Azam Ali

First time in Bulgaria the Iranian acoustic group with the hauntingly beautiful voice of Azam Ali.QSofia Live Club, pl. Bulgaria 1, NDK, MSerdika, tel. (+359) 88 833 11 93, 40 leva.

04.11 » Ian Gillan Live

QD‑3, National Palace of Culture, pl. Bulgaria 1, MNDK.

15.11 20:00 » Zucchero

QD‑3, National Palace of Culture, pl. Bulgaria 1, MNDK, 60 -150 leva.

02.12 » Dire Straits Experience

Original band member Chris White and six world class musicians perform the music of Dire Straits.QD‑3, National Palace of Culture, pl. Bulgaria 1, MNDK, 30 - 80 leva. sofia.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants BULGARIAN Bulgarian cuisine means lots of salads, grilled meats and the local tipple rakiya. There are of course many cooked dishes, such as Moussaka, or stews, but most expats will opt for the grilled meat or – if available – lamb cooked on a spit. Some of the restaurants mentioned go all out to reconstruct the traditional village tavern, while others serve Bulgarian cuisine in a modern setting.

Talents

Sofia’s city centre is packed with restaurants, bistros, cafes and eating establishments of all kinds and for all pockets. In a bid to beat the financial crisis, most restaurants now offer daily lunch specials at very competitive rates, so if you are on a budget but still enjoy eating out – now is your chance to try some of the better restaurants. Worth bearing in mind: - tips should be roughly 10% of the bill. Do check to make sure a service charge hasn’t already been added. - check your bill carefully! There are still many cases of unwitting foreigners being overcharged. - there is some confusion as to what order to serve meals in: some restaurants serve food as it becomes ready, others stick strictly to the rules so that the person who is only eating a main course has to wait until everyone has finished with their salad and starters before it arrives. Make it clear when you order when you would like to receive your food. - check whether your meal comes with garnitura (side dish) or whether you need to order it separately. - food tends to be served warm, rather than piping hot. - many restaurants have taken the law into their own hands by allowing patrons to smoke after 22:00, with no consideration for their non-smoking clientele.

SYMBOL KEY P Air conditioning

G Non-smoking

T Child-friendly

L Guarded parking

J Central location

B Outside seating

A Credit cards accepted

6 Pet-friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

X Smoking

V Deliveries

S Take-away

I Fireplace

W Wifi

E Live music

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BORIMECHKATA Situated out in the ‘Students’ Town’ (Studentski Grad) district, this is a large restaurant done out in traditional Bulgarian style. An extensive menu presents all that is good about Bulgarian cuisine, at very reasonable prices: large platters of fresh salad, grilled or barbecued meats, sheep’s cheese and homemade bread rolls. The service is genuinely friendly and attentive. Can get very busy on weekends.Qul. Akademik Boris Stefanov 6, Studentski Grad, tel. (+359) 888 222 124, www. borimechkata.com. Open 11:00 – 02:00. P­A­E HADJIDRAGANOVITE KASHTI Traditional Bulgarian restaurant in a complex of restored 19th century houses close to the central station. There are four themed houses named after the typical architectural styles in the beautiful towns of Bansko, Melnik, Zheravna and Koprishtitsa. Traditional Bulgarian cuisine, open fireplace, courtyard and live music.QB-3, ul. Kozlodui 75, MLavov Most, tel. (+359) 899 917 837, www.kashtite. com/en. Open 11:30- 01:00. P­J­A­U­I­E­G­ B­W HADJIDRAGANOV’S CELLARS (HADJIDRAGANOVITE IZBI) Bulgarian restaurant with traditional village decor right in the city centre. Large menu of national dishes: if you’re in a group try the platters to share. Live music makes for a lively atmosphere.QC-3, ul. Hristo Belchev 18, MSerdika/ NDK, tel. (+359) 898 775 936, www.izbite.com/en. Open 11:30 – 01:00. P­T­J­A­6­U­I­E­G­B­W MOMA MOMA describes itself as traditional Bulgarian food and wine, but it is done with such style and imagination that puts it right in there with the contemporary trendy restaurants. The menu also makes some allowances for more innovative dishes, such as quinoa tabbouleh – which however still tie in well with other more traditional dishes. All our dishes were fresh and tasty, seasoned just right. The service was friendly and attentive, the courtyard providing enough shade on a sunny hot day. Definitely the place to go for Bulgarian cuisine, without all the usual overdone decor of red tablecloths and brown terracotta crockery! By the way the Bulgarian word ‘Moma’ means young maiden!QC-3, ul.Solunska 28, MNDK, tel. (+359) 885 622 020, www.moma-restaurant.com. Open 11:00 – 22:00. P­J­A 2016

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Restaurants SKARABAR Laid-back, no frills restaurant/bar with two locations in the city centre. Primarily serves grilled meats and salads, all from local producers, with daily lunchtime specials featuring Bulgarian home cooking. Extensive wine menu with wine shop in the ul. Benkovski venue. The Zaimov Park location has a large outdoor area which is packed on sunny weekends.QC-4, ul. Georgi Benkovski 12; Zaimov Park, MSerdika, tel. (+359) 2 483 44 31, www.skarabar. com. Open 12:00 – 24:00. J­B­X

FRENCH L’ETRANGER Sofia’s longest running French restaurant is in the up and coming area just off bul. Maria Luiza. The chalkboard menu includes all that is traditional about French cuisine, with chef Olivier’s special touch. Food and service are always excellent.QB-3, ul. Tsar Simeon 78, MSerdika, tel. (+359) 2 983 1417, (+359) 88 752 3376. Open Mon-Fri 12:00 – 15:00, 18:00 – 22:00, Sat 18:00 – 22:00. Closed Sun. PTJA6 L’INSTANT In an elegant but unpretentious and bright setting with outdoor pavement dining. L’instant is ideal for lunch or dinner, private or business.The menu offers what is best about French cuisine; fish, scallops, rabbit, duck and steaks deliciously prepared with that certain ‘je ne sais quoi’ and beautifully presented. There are special lunchtime promotional deals.QC-5, ul. Prof. Assen Zlatarov 24, tel. (+359) 2 843 0364, www.linstant.bg. Open 12:00 – 23:00. Closed Sun. G­B

HEALTH FOOD BUFETA – БЮФЕТЪ The quirkiness and charm of this restaurant, just slightly off the beaten track and yet not far from the city centre is a real hit among locals who like to eat healthy for a reasonable price. Although not a vegetarian restaurant, there is an excellent choice of vegetarian and vegan dishes,and even the meat dishes look wonderfully healthy! Everything we tried was very tasty.QB-4, ul. Exarh Josif 44, tel. (+359) 876 116 601. Open 10:00 – 24:00. €€. J SOUL KITCHEN If you thought ‘vegan’ was bland and boring – think again! Soul Kitchen will inspire you to indulge in tasty well presented dishes made from the freshest ingredients available without any animal products. The menu is inspired by dishes from around the world. Set in a charming old house, the trendy interior is broken down into several smaller dining areas and the outdoor yard features a safe children’s play area, making it a good choice for young families.QD-4, ul. Kokiche 13, tel. (+359)876 440 003/ (+359)2 865 8080, www.soulkitchen.bg. Open 10:00 – 24:00. €€. T­N­G­B 12 Sofia In Your Pocket

SUN MOON Restaurant, cafe and shop specialised in home-made vegetarian healthfood. The emphasis is on local, organic fruits and vegetables as well as breads and pastries made from spelt, oats and other cereals.QC-3, ul. U. Gladston 18b (corner of Kniaz Boris), MSerdika, tel. (+359) 895 64 84 77, www.sunmoon.bg/en/. Open 8:00 – 22:00, Sun 12:00 – 21:00. J­G­B­S TABLA Excellent menu of fresh, imaginative and most importantly healthy dishes at this small restaurant. Meat, fish, seafood and vegetarian dishes are on offer but what unites them all is no frying, no artificial flavourings and only the best quality ingredients. The colourful, modern interior provides a variety of seating options – bar stools, sofa and wooden chairs. Outdoor seating is also available on the pavement.QC-3, ul. Angel Kunchev 11, MSerdika, tel. (+359) 88 875 0020. Open 09:00 – 23:00. P­J­A­6­U­V­G­B­W

INDIAN GURKHA The menu features excellent traditional Nepali and Indian cuisine and without a doubt this is one of the best restaurants in this category. Anyone who has been to Nepal will be happy to find Momos on the menu here! An open fire place and ethnic decor makes for a dining ambience that transports you to the magical Himalayas, with friendly service and delicious food.QF-2, ul. Tsvetna Gradina 56, MEvropeyski Soyuz, tel. (+359) 2 865 02 16/(+359) 88 493 9100, www.gurkhabg.com. Open 12:00 – 24:00. Closed Mon. P­A­I­V­B­S SAFFRON This restaurant is tucked away in Studentski Grad (students’ town) behind Fantastiko supermarket and is worth checking out. The owner and chef is Indian and serves good quality Indian food in a pleasant ambience at reasonable prices. A new menu of fusion cuisine is being introduced. Qul. Francois Mitterand, Studentski Grad, tel. (+359) 896 179986, (+359) 890 917 203, www.saffron-bg.com. Open 12:00 – 23:00, Mon 17:00 – 23:00. PXS SPICE HOUSE Good Indian food, refreshingly friendly and co-operative service. You really need to look for this place, although in the city centre there is not much else on this part of the street. British run.QD-2, ul. Han Asparuh 3, MSerdika/NDK, tel. (+359) 87 614 5372, www.spicehouse. bg. Open 12:00 – 22:30. Closed July-August. Deliveries from: 2.50 leva. P­T­J­A­G­B­S­W

INTERNATIONAL 33 GASTRONAUTS The interior is light and homely, the service friendly and the menu is best described as innovative European. Everysofia.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants thing we ordered was very fresh and tasty, both the lunchtime specials and a la carte menu items.QC-5, ul. Prof. Asen Zlatarov 14, MSofiyski Universitet, tel. (+359) 879 375233, www.33gastronauts.com. Open 11:00 – 24:00. P­J­A­6­I­B­S­W AGARTA BAR & DINER The light and airy ambience invites you to relax here and enjoy the high quality of predominantly Balkan cuisine with friendly service, accompanied by good music and all at very reasonable prices. There is an enclosed heated pavement dining area which is popular with smokers. QD-3, ul. Angel Kanchev 32, MNDK, tel. (+359) 87 962 9419, www.agartarestaurant.com. Open 10:00 - 24:00. P­J­A­U­E­B­S­W ASCUA Centrally located restaurant specialising in fresh fish and steaks on coal. Most dishes are cooked on embers (Ascua in Spanish) giving a unique taste to your meal. Choose from a variety of fresh fish (mostly Greek) such as red sea beam, sinegrida and the speciality milokopi or go for one of the 48 day dry-aged steaks such as Black Angus or Tbone. A family run restaurant with personal touch and friendly service.QD-3, ul. Racho Dimchev 1, MSerdika, tel. (+359) 882 880 901, www.ascua.bg. Open 11:00 – 23:30. P­J­B­X­S CHECKPOINT CHARLY Live jazz on Friday evenings adds to the attraction of this popular restaurant with its stylish modern interior and delightful shady garden. Off ering contemporary versions of traditional Bulgarian dishes, there is also a daily lunchtime menu.QC-4, ul. Ivan Vazov 12, MSofiiski Universitet, tel. (+359) 2 988 0370/(+359) 886 577 342, www.checkpointcharlybg.com/en/. Open 11:30 – 23:30 P­J­A­E­G­B­S­W CHEF’S This well-known restaurant, started by some of the country’s top chefs has finally moved from its original location outside the city limits (en route to Samokov) to a more central spot in Lozenets. The menu has some Asian influences, but also traditional dishes and a few standard favourites. Chef’s also offers a good spectrum of Bulgarian wines and some imported ones as well. The service is very attentive and friendly.QF-3, ul. Lyubata 13, tel. (+359) 896 723 222, www.chefs-bg.com. Open 11:30 – 23:30. P­A­B­W CORSO CENTER A welcome addition in the centre of town, just opposite the Russian church. The ground floor offers a new take on the food court fast dining concept with a warm and cosy environment, natural materials and muted colours. You can select from various counters – fresh salads and sandwiches, ready cooked warm dish and soup of the day and pastries. On the upper level there is an ‘a la carte’ restaufacebook.com/SofiaInYourPocket

rant.QC-4, bul. Tsar Osvoboditel 10, MSerdika/Sofiyski Universitet, tel. (+359) 888 83 82 28, www.corso.bg. Open 08:00 – 22:30. P­J­A­V­B­S­W CRYSTAL STEAK HOUSE It’s all about the beef here – and it really is top quality beef, with an excellent choice of dry aged from Australia, USA and Argentina, as well as some more regional options. everything we had here, beef tartare, fillet steak and even horse meatballs were all done to perfection. Very tasty and the prices very reasonable for the quality. The setting is also very trendy with the blackboard walls telling you all you need to know about steaks.QC-4, ul. Aksakov 14, M Sofiyski Universitet, tel (+359) 885 11 11 80, www.steak.bg. Open 10:00 – 23:00. PJA DIVAKA Large trendy Bulgarian eatery in the city centre that is always busy. Excellent cuisine and excellent value for money with fast service. You aren’t going to get anything out of the ordinary here but you will get good portions of good food so if this is what you are looking for you will leave contented. Open all night (not that we’ve ever checked it out!)QC-3, ul. Hristo Belchev 16. Open 00:00 – 24:00. P­J­A­G LAZY You won’t come across Lazy accidentally as it is tucked away in an apartment block,by the cable car lift behind the huge IKEA and Sofia Ring Mall complex. Extremely popular with the expat and local business community, this restaurant is usually packed at peak times. As you would expect from one of the country’s best chefs, the food is exceptionally high quality, without being too pretentious. Beef steak, lamb chops, quail and fresh fish are on the menu to tempt and deliver, albeit at a price! The menu is just long enough to give you choice without overwhelming and includes some very tasty pizza options for those looking for the something more basic. Be sure to leave room for dessert! Food and service is topnotch, but a word of advice – don’t let the waiter steer your choices, they will be pricey!Qul. 197, Vitosha Park Compound 25, Simeonovo cabin lift, tel. (+359) 882 30 50 60, www. lazy.bg. Open 10:00 – 23:00. P­A­B MOTTO CLUB Enjoy the laid-back trendy atmosphere of one of Sofia’s perennial favorites with a coffee, cocktail or a bite to eat. Inside, the eclectic retro furnishing complements the industrial pipes and bare brick walls, while the enormous leafy garden outside is a rare find in central Sofia. Thematic lunch menus are on offer, changing from Mexican one week to pasta the next. After 9 p.m. the music becomes loud as the DJ takes over. We love to come here on a Sunday and read the papers over a coffee and cake. QC-4, ul. Aksakov 18, MSofiyski Universitet, tel. (+359) 2 9872723, www.motto-bg.com. Open 10:00 – 01:00. P­J­A­6­V­B­S­W 2016

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Restaurants SEASONS Upmarket restaurant in the 5 star Hilton hotel. Serving modern Bulgarian influenced cuisine combined with the best from around the world, Seasons can boast one of Bulgaria’s best known celebrity chefs, Andre Tokev, who loves giving Bulgarian dishes a contemporary twist. The menu is compact and offers delicacies such as steamed pheasant or Argentinean steak (seasonally adapted) with an emphasis on the delicious local fresh produce. The restaurant has a seating capacity of 120, but through the tone on tone muted earth colour decor, it does not lose its intimacy. Ideal for special occasions and events, in the warmer summer months there is also a delightful terrace overlooking the adjacent South Park. Dress code: smart casual.QE-3, Hilton Hotel, bul. Bulgaria 1, MEvropeyski Soyuz, tel. (+359) 2 933 5062, www.hilton.com. Open 06:30 – 10:30, 12:00 – 14:00, 18:00 – 23:30. Sunday brunch 12:00-15:30. P­­ T­J ­A ­U ­B ­W TALENTS This teaching restaurant is the first of its kind in Sofia and offers the diner the opportunity to taste the finest of international cuisine whilst providing the final year students at the academy with valuable work experience. Two floors of restaurant with different decor provide a choice of ambience. Service and food are both excellent. A short menu offers gourmet cuisine with to-die-for desserts. The weekday lunch specials ( 4 courses for 10 leva) are excellent value for money and throughout the month they have special culinary experience evenings including ‘dining in the dark’.QD3, ul. Peter Beron 9, tel. (+359) 2 421 9068, www. restauranttalents.bg. Open 11:00 – 22:30. Closed Sun. 8.50-32.00 leva. P­J ­A ­I ­G THE NEW FOX & HOUND The decor reminds of a cosy English Pub with several smaller dining areas and a bar, but the menu is far more extensive (and fancier) than you would find in a pub in the UK. Our favourite is definitely the full cooked English breakfast, served throughout the day. Draught Guinness or Kilkenny or some English Tea served in a teapot (yay) are all great accompaniments. A special seasonal lunch menu offers an adventurous mix of international cuisine at reasonable prices, and as befitting a pub – the most important football matches from major European leagues are broadcast live.QD-3, ul. Angel Kunchev 34, MNDK, tel. (+359) 2 980 7427, (+359) 876 331 419. Open 10:30 – 24:00. P­J­A­G­W TRATTORIA ‘IL MAESTRO GIUSEPPE VERDI’ Dining area is split on several levels of a house with a sheltered courtyard in the city centre. Cosy atmosphere and friendly service, the emphasis is on fresh genuine Italian cuisine at sensible prices.QD-3, ul. Rakovski 174, MNDK, tel. (+359) 89 337 97 67, www.trattoria.bg/. Open 12:0023:00. P­T­J­A­I­G­B­W 14 Sofia In Your Pocket

UGO 1 Another relatively inexpensive and friendly restaurant with several locations in downtown Sofia. Ugo has been around for 15 years serving pizza, salads, pasta and long long menu of anything else you can think of. Astoundingly it all comes very quickly and is tasty, though nothing gourmet. If you’re out and about sightseeing you could do worse than sit down at one of the Ugos.QD-3, bul. Vitosha 45, tel. +359 29881892, www.ugo.bg. Open 00:00 – 24:00. 4.99-10.39 leva. P­J­A

MEDITERRANEAN This is the most popular group of foreign cuisines on offer and no wonder – Bulgaria has the perfect vegetables for recreating those Mediterranean flavours. CINECITTA OSTERIA ITALIANA (RESIDENCE MONTE BOYANA) In the suburbs not far from the Film studios this stylish Italian is very popular on weekends when everyone heads out of town. You can’t fault the cuisine, this place is always busy!Qul.Kumata 75G, tel. (+359) 885 760160. DI VALLI Small smart restaurant in the Doctor’s Garden area with an emphasis on Mediterranean cuisine and seafood. Prices are surprisingly reasonable considering the area and the quality of the food. Excellent service and desserts. Their restaurant in Sozopol at the Black Sea is hugely popular during the summer months.QC-5, ul. Oborishte 23, tel. (+359) 888 982265. FORNO CIPOLLINI Great lively atmosphere and interior at this genuine Italian joint serving pizza, pasta and salads. The pizzas feature ultra-thin dough. Be sure to book as its very popular.QC-5, ul. Oborishte 36A, MSofiyski Universitet, tel. (+359) 887 778 464, www.forno.bg. Open 12:00 – 23:00. P­A­G­B LA BOTTEGA ALL’ANGOLO Quite a few of these quirkily designed restaurants have opened up around town in the past couple of years and are buzzing. The lunch menu features some delicious cooked dishes but we have had mixed success with the ‘a la carte’. Excellent wines and service and great atmosphere.QD-3, ul. Gladston 58, tel. (+359) 88 996 2266, labottega.bg. Open 09:00 – 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 – 23:00. LAVANDA Above the trendy ‘One More Bar’ (entrance at the rear of the building), Lavanda delights with its shabby chic charm more reminiscent of something you might find it Vienna or Paris. The brief hand-written menu appears somewhat adventurous in its combination of flavours. We tried grilled octopus leg and were delighted by both presentation and flavour, and overall it promises a refreshing dining expesofia.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants rience.QC-4, ul. Shishman 12, tel. (+359) 88 224 9740. Open 12:30 – 23:00. Closed Sun. P­J­A MADE IN HOME Quirkily designed restaurant on one of the backstreets of the city centre. Outdoor seating on the pavement. Wideranging menu of imaginative dishes, mostly with a healthy theme but there are plenty of meat dishes as well. Vegetarians will find some novel options here.QD-3, ul. Angel Kanchev 30, tel. (+359) 87 688 4014. Open 11:00 – 22:30. J­B PASTORANT Charming and intimate restaurant done out in a refreshing pale green and decorated with delightful knick-knacks. The pasta is some of the best in Sofia.QC-3, ul. Tsar Assen 16, MSerdika, tel. (+359) 2 981 4482, www.pastorant. eu. Open 12:00 – 22:30. J­B PORTO MALTESE A welcome fine dining addition to the Paradise Center, originally from Malta. The wonderfully fresh home-baked dark bread with olives is sinfully delicious (although not complimentary) served with olive paste, oil and garlic. Porto Maltese specialises in fresh fish from the Med as well as steaks, beautifully presented. We opted for the Cajun steak which was incredibly tasty and tender. Service and view also get the thumbs up.QParadise Center Level 3, bul. Cherni Vrah 100, tel. (+359) 88 330 8020. Open 12:00 – 01:00. P­A­B SPAGHETTI KITCHEN Warm, earthy tones, raw natural materials and a variety of seating options on several levels all arranged around a very visible kitchen hub. If pasta is not your thing, there are also fish, steaks, salads and more. Lunchtime specials and brunch on Sunday from 11:30-16:00.QC-4, ul. 6th Septemvri 9, MSofiiski Universitet, tel. (+359) 89 056 6666, www.spaghetti-kitchen.com. Open 10:00 – 01:00. P­J­A­G­B­X­W SPAGHETTI KITCHEN & BAR Following on the successful recipe of Spaghetti Kitchen, the new Spaghetti Kitchen & Bar does not fail to deliver. Prime central location and plenty of outdoor seating, the interior also offers a variety of seating opportunities, whether you are in a larger group or even on your own. Enjoy the open view to the kitchen or chill in the prosciutto bar area, where you can order platters of prosciutto (various types) or Italian cheeses to accompany your drinks. The menu offers just enough choice within each category; pizza, pasta, ethnic, local, grill. The salads are beautifully presented and the dessert vitrine catches your attention already as you enter. Definitely worth stopping here at any time of day.QC-3, pl. Sveta Nedelya 3, MSerdika, tel. (+359) 89 304 6666. Open 08:00- 03:00. P­T­J­A­ U­E­B­W

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VILLA VICTORIA This beautifully restored hunting lodge with large outdoor dining area is set in the ‘Loven Park’ in the city. In addition to the usual endless menu of tasty pizzas, salads and other main dishes, this restaurant also offers game (when in season), fresh fish and meats which you select from a trolley prior to cooking. Service is very attentive, our waiter spoke good English. Booking during peak times evenings and weekends is recommended.Qbul. Simeonovsko Shosse 1, in the park, tel. (+359) 88 980 0099, www.villa. victoria.bg. Open 11:00 – 23:00. €€€. P­A­I­G­B

MIDDLE EASTERN ANNETTE Genuine Moroccan, based on original recipes by the owner’s mother, in a stylish oriental interior which features cushion-covered benches and a lot of candles. Salad and mezze are presented on a tray from which you can make your selection. Main course is either a tagine or grilled meat, while for dessert you can go for a Moroccan sweet, tea and a narghile. In the summer months the enchanting adjacent courtyard is a welcome oasis in the city centre.QD-3, ul. Angel Kanchev 27, tel. (+359) 2 980 4098, www.annette.bg. Open 10:00 – 23:00. P­J ­A ­V ­S

SOUTH AMERICAN LOMO Peruvian restaurant with an extremely welcoming atmosphere. A round hole in the wall reveals a glimpse into the kitchen. The menu is simple and relatively brief. The appetizers are very tasty, especially the salad with tomatoes and chorizo sausage.QC-5, ul. Sheinovo 4, tel. (+359) 2 944 6577. Open 12:00 – 15:00; 17:00 – 23:00.

SUSHI Sushi is pretty big in Sofia, with many restaurants in the city centre offering a sushi menu alongside their regular dishes. These tend to lean heavily on Philadelphia cheese stuffed sushi, whereas the dedicated sushi places go for the traditional fillings. EDO SUSHI & TEPPANYAKI Plenty of restaurants offering sushi these days, but not many offering ‘Teppanyaki’ – where you can sit around the hot iron griddle and watch your food being prepared. Edo Sushi offers an excellent variety of dishes from Japanese cuisine, making it much more than a place for sushi. The ambience is calm and relaxing with excellent service, and the location in the Sofia Ring Mall offers a great view onto the foothills of Vitosha Mountain.QC-4, ul. G.S. Rakovski 96, MSerdika/Sofiyski Universitet, tel. (+359) 878 920 100, www.edosushi.bg. Open 10:00 – 22:30. P­J­A­ V­G­W

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Cafés 10, MSerdika, tel. (+359) 2 444 0556. Open 08:00 – 22:00. P­J­G­S­W GREEN DELI CAFE Bulgaria’s answer to the international coffee chains, Green Deli Cafe offers warm and cold food as well as tea, coffee and fresh juices. Try their fresh salads using healthy, natural ingredients in unusual combinations, freshly made soups and delicious sandwiches (we love the roasted vegetable and hummus sandwich and the salad with millet, pumpkin and edamame).QD-3, ul. Rakovski 165, tel. (+359) 879 256 565, greendelicafe.com. Open 07:00 – 20:00, Sat-Sun 09:00 – 19:00. P­J­A Like so many other places, Sofia has its fair share of Starbucks and Costa Coffees, but there are still plenty of interesting little local places to try out. In the past couple of years cafes offering home-baked cakes, cupcakes, bread and more have sprung up all around Sofia’s city centre. Our favourites offer healthy (well, okay, cakes can’t really be healthy) alternatives to the fake cream toppings offered in the old-school Bulgarian cake shops as well as freshly squeezed juices or home made syrups, coffee and tea.

CAFES CAKEY BAKEY Charming little bakery cum coffee shop, slightly off the beaten track but well worth a detour. Using primarily locally sourced ingredients you will find here a variety of freshly baked bread products including spelt and wholegrain, cakes and pastries. There are a few seats where you can sit and enjoy with a cup of tea or coffee.QB-4, ul. Iskar 36, tel. (+359) 882 800622, cakeybakey.bg. J CICCIONE PANINI BAR & BAKERY Great to pop in at any time day of the day, whether it is morning coffee and fresh croissants, or a quick lunch choosing from their large selection of panini sandwiches and salads through to evening drinks with friends sharing a bottle of good Italian wine accompanied by platters of fresh cuts – Italian sausages and cured meats and cheeses. Freshly baked bread rolls and Italian delicatessen are also on sale. There are two more locations in Sofia: ul. Hristo Belchev 6 and Business Park Sofia.QD-4, ul. Gen. Yosif V. Gurko 9, MSofiyski Universitet, tel. (+359) 882 501 599, www.ciccione.bg. Open Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri 08:00 – 23:30, Sat, Sun 10:00 – 23:30. P­­J ­A ­V ­G ­S ­W FABRIKA DAGA Trendy cafe – big windows, light wood interior with the classic French metal bar stools – offering a selection of home-made soups, sandwiches, salads and desserts either to go or to eat in house. The location is one block down from the Sheraton hotel and TsuM.QC-3, ul. Veslets 16 Sofia In Your Pocket

LOVING HUT Tiny vegan cafe and take away next to the opera house, serving vegan and mostly raw food. Choose from freshly made salads, smoothies or raw soups, or go for the panini with vegan cheese, quiche or pie.QC-4, ul. Rakovski 113, MSerdika, www.lovinghut.bg. JS MA BAKER Fresh homemade bread, muffins, cookies, cakes and sandwiches and all pretty healthy at that! Most of what is on offer here uses rye or wholegrain flour and the brown bread used for the sandwiches is so authentic and chewy that it can even be a little difficult to manipulate. Besides snacks to eat in or take out there is also good coffee, lattes, etc and homemade soft drinks. Both locations have only a few tables, plus seating at the bar, with large windows that open in warm weather to bring the outdoors inside. QD-3, ul. Rakovski 163; D-3, bul. Skobelev 7. Open 07:00 – 20:00. ­J MEMENTO Always packed whatever the time of day, Memento’s cafebars attract a trendy young coffee and cocktail-drinking crowd. Having said that, their coffee is delicious and they also do a wicked selection of loose teas. In the evenings themusic gets loud with guest DJ sets. Outdoor seating. Sandwiches and cakes. There is also a Memento cafe to the right of the entrance the National Palace of Culture (ideal before or after a show) and one on the corner of ul. Rakovski/Gurko as well as in the Sofia Ring Mall.QD-3, bul. Vitosha 32, MNDK. Open 08:00 – 02:00, Sat 09:00 – 03:00, Sun 10:00 – 02:00. P­J­A­6­B­W SOCIAL CAFE Relatively new arrival on Sofia’s main pedestrianised ‘street of cafes’. We love the concept, decor, food and view. The dishes are a fresh innovative mix of regional and Italian, with an open kitchen concept where you can watch your meal being prepared. Laid out either side of a central bar area, the ambience is lively and dynamic. The Social Cafe is a great place to stop for coffee, a bite to eat- sweet or savoury, a drink with friends and a bit of people watching.QD-4, bul. Vitosha 16, MNDK, www.socialcafe.bg. Open 08:00 – 02:00. sofia.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife BARS IN SOFIA There’s a bar on every corner in the centre of Sofia and in certain residential areas, such as ‘Studentski Grad’ (Students’ Town), where nightlife enjoys a somewhat higher profile than sitting in the library (if there are any!). We’ve chosen the bars that have something a little different to offer – style, good music and that certain something. BY THE WAY Massively popular bar for people who wear suits by day and surf and snowboard all summer. Centrally located, By the Way is equally good for morning coffee and a croissant, a quiet lunch of good salads and sandwiches or to meet up with friends in the evening over cocktails.QD-3, ul. Georgi Rakovski 166, MNDK, tel. (+359) 02 980 3836, www.bytheway.bg. Open 09:00 – 01:00, Sat, Sun 10:00- 01:00. P­J­A­B CASA DE CUBA Latino music, good selection of cigars and rum, leatherand-wood interior and many pictures of hot Havana nights. Warm and cosy place in the Lozenets district of Sofia, where you can feel the spirit of the hot southern romance over a good cocktail and pleasant conversation. QE-3, ul. Tsvetna Gradina 1 (Helsinki Square), MEvropeiski Soyuz, tel. +359 2 963 2297/+359 885 455 633, www.casadecuba.bg. Open 08:00 – 01:30, Sun 10:00 – 01:30. P­A­E­B DADA CULTURAL BAR Small arty cafe/bar that hosts regular cultural events and there are always examples of contemporary art for sale on the walls.QC-4, ul. Georgi Benkovski 10, MSerdika, / (+359) 876 062455, www.blog.dadaculturalbar.eu/. Open 10:00–24:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 – 02:00. P­J­A

bul. Yanko Sakazov 15-17, tel. (+359) 2 4446 111, www. raketabar.com. Open 11:00 – 24:00. SENSE ROOFTOP BAR Right in the centre of Sofia, this rooftop bar has one of the best views of Sofia’s most emblematic sights – Alexander Nevsky Cathedral, Parliament and more.QC-4, bul. Tsar Osvoboditel 16, tel. (+359) 88 454 4108, www. sensehotel.com. Open 10:00 – 02:00. P­J­A­G­ B­W THE COCKTAIL BAR Fantastic setting for this bar in an old-fashioned glass and cast iron pavilion in the little park between Angel Kanchev and Solunska Streets. You could almost be forgiven for thinking you were in Paris. Classic and innovative cocktails are on offer as well as the usual range of drinks.QC-3, ul. Angel Kanchev 9A, MSerdika, tel. (+359) 87 715 1152. Open 09:00 – 02:00. P­J­B­W

PUBS JJ MURPHY’S The Karnigradska location is the oldest Irish pub in Sofia and is still a very popular expat hangout. As Irish pubs go it’s more the upmarket type than spit and sawdust, and has a great beer garden for the summer months. All major sporting events can be seen on the large screen and beware anyone who wants to talk through them! A new location has recently opened in the Doctor’s Garden area. Draught beers, average pub grub and generally a party atmosphere.QC-3, ul. Karnigradska 6; C-5, ul. Shipka 48, MSerdika, tel. (+359) 2 980 28 70, www.jjmurphys.net. Open 12:30 – 01:00. J­B­S­W

MWAH – MUSIC WINE ART HOUSE Wine bar with a large spacious feel to it, thanks to the high ceilings and large windows.QC-5, ul. Sheinovo 2, MSofiiski Universitet, tel. (+359) 89 557 3058, www.mwah. bg. Open 10:00 – 22:00. P­J­A­G­W ONE MORE BAR This is no doubt one of the hippest places to go, no matter what time of day. Go for a coffee, a drink, lavish Sunday brunch, a tasty sandwich or a healthy salad. You won’t be disappointed. One of the most famous bartenders in the world recently said that he had the best Bloody Mary of his life there. The interior of this restored old house is decidedly shabby chic. Quiet and shady garden in the summer months.QC-4, ul. Shishman 12, MSofiyski Universitet/ Serdika, tel. (+359) 88 253 95 92. Open 08:00–02:00. J­G­B­X RAKETA RAKIA BAR Here you will find the best selection of rakia (the local brandy) in a retro environment. Food also served.QC-5, facebook.com/SofiaInYourPocket

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Nightlife CLUB TERMINAL1 Live music club and bar.QC‑3, ul. Angel Kanchev 1, MSerdika. MASCARA In the basement of Sofia’s Opera House, this nightclub is a popular choice for the city’s clubbers. With three different rooms, each with its own style and atmosphere. The VIP lounge speaks for itself, as does the chillout lounge.QC-4, ul. G. S. Rakovski 113, MSofiiski Universitet/Serdika, tel. (+359) 886272272, www.mascaraclub.com/. Open 23.00 – 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. Entrance Fee: 8 leva. MIXTAPE 5 A hot spot on the party circuit of Sofia with various music events featuring both Bulgarian and foreign artists in all styles and genres. The two halls are spacious and with good acoustics and the bar staff are young and friendly. QE-3, pl. Bulgaria 1, NDK, Galleria Underpass, MNDK, tel. (+359) 886 83 71 82, www.mixtape5.com.

MCCARTHY’S IRISH PUB Unpretentious Irish pub catering for beer and whisky lovers. No food to be had here, no big-screen football (no football at all, in fact), just booze and rock/pop music. Guinness is on tap. Customers are a friendly community. Entertainment includes karaoke nights, live music and Irish lessons.QC-3, ul. Alabin 29A, MSerdika, tel. (+359) 89 995 3243. Open 12:30 – 01:00. J­X THE NEW FOX & HOUND The decor reminds of a cosy English Pub with several smaller dining areas and a bar, but the menu is far more extensive (and fancier) than you would find in a pub in the UK. Our favourite is definitely the full cooked English breakfast, served throughout the day. Draught Guinness or Kilkenny or some English Tea served in a teapot (yay) are all great accompaniments. A special seasonal lunch menu offers an adventurous mix of international cuisine at reasonable prices, and as befitting a pub – the most important football matches from major European leagues are broadcast live.QD-3, ul. Angel Kanchev 34, MNDK, tel. (+359 ) 2 9807427, (+359) 876 331 419. Open 10:30 – 24:00. P­J­A­G­W

NIGHTCLUBS CARRUSEL One of the most colourful and popular clubs in Sofia at the moment.QC-4, ul. Rakovski 108, tel. (+359) 877 078080, carruselclub.com. Open 22:00-04:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. 18 Sofia In Your Pocket

SOFIA LIVE CLUB One of the most happening places in Sofia, with a different band on every night, playing mostly jazz, blues, soul and salsa. Many of the bands come from abroad. The interior – though brand new – is somewhat outdated with its studded black leather banquettes but then who are we to judge? Great music is this place’s selling point. QD-3, pl. Bulgaria 1, NDK, MSerdika, tel. (+359) 88 833 11 93, www.sofialiveclub.com/. Open Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun 20:00 – 07:00, Fri, Sat 21:00 – 07:00. Closed Mon. J­A­L­E­G STUDIO 5 Small, cosy club, where jazz, swing, soul and world music are at home. Theatre, stand-up comedy, dancing, cooking and all kinds of cultural events keep them company. No limits- just art, good vibes and guaranteed high quality. QD-3, pl. Bulgaria 1, NDK, MNDK, tel. (+359) 887 934 335, www.clubstudio5.com. Open 11:00 – 02:00. J WAKE UP An after club – club! For those for whom the night just isn’t long enough ( or those that like to get up early?), Wake Up promises some of the best international and local DJs every Saturday and Sunday morning from 3 am. Great atmosphere and good sound.QD-3, bul. Bulgaria 1, NDK underpass, MNational Palace of Culture, tel. (+359)897 770 955. Open Sat, Sun 03:00 – 12:00. P­J­E­G YALTA CLUB The most happening club in Sofia’s electronic music scene in recent years with resident and guest DJs from around the world every week. Lovely patio furniture means this is also a great place for a drink at any time of day in the warmer months.QC-4, bul. Tsar Osvoboditel 20, MSofiyski Universitet, tel. (+359) 897 870 230, www. yaltaclub.com. J­A sofia.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing scenes from Bulgaria’s history of liberation.QC-4, bul. Tsar Osvoboditel, in front of the Radisson SAS hotel.

SOPHIA Towering above the intersection of Maria Louisa Blvd and Todor Alexandrov Blvd. in the commercial heart of the city, Sophia was erected in 2001 – not without some controversy – replacing Lenin’s monument, which was removed from the same spot at the time of the democratic changes. Sophia was considered too erotic and pagan to be referred to as St. Sophia. Eight metres in height, the copper and bronze statue by the sculptor Georgi Chapkanov, stands on a 16 metre high pedestal. Adorned with the symbols of power (crown), fame (wreath) and wisdom (owl), the crown is also a reference to the Goddess of Fate – Tjuhe, inspired by the old emblem of Sofia dating back to 1900.QC-3, Intersection of bul. Todor Alexandrov and bul. Maria Luisa, MSerdika.

MONUMENTS SOVIET ARMY MONUMENT (PAMETNIK NA SUVETSKATA ARMIYA) From time to time talk turns to the fate of this tall monument, crowned with an 8-metre high sculpture and bronze figurative compositions around the base dedicated to the Soviet troops who entered Bulgaria at the end of WWII. Usually someone calling themselves a defender of democracy calls for it to be pulled down or proposes a referendum on its fate and then it is all forgotten as the Russian Embassy responds that Bulgaria is not at liberty to do so. For a while it was covered in graffiti but it seems that it has found its niche in the city landscape and will stay overlooking the skateboard and cycling area in the park.QD-5, bul. Tsarigradsko Shosse, in the Borissova Gradina Park. TSAR OSVOBODITEL MONUMENT (PAMETNIK NA TSAR OSVOBODITEL) This fine bronze statue portrays the Russian Tsar Alexander II on horseback and is a gesture of gratitude to the Russian Tsar and his troops who finally liberated Bulgaria in 1878 from Ottoman rule. The 14-metre high statue is by the Italian sculptor Arnaldo Zucci, who won the commission in a highly coveted competition. The monument itself was unveiled in August 1907, and the bas reliefs depict various facebook.com/SofiaInYourPocket

UNKNOWN SOLDIER (PAMETNIK NA NEZNAYNIA VOYN) On the southern side of Sveta Sofia church watched over by a majestic bronze lion, there is a granite tomb, containing the bones of soldiers who died for their fatherland. The tombstone behind the eternal flame is said to have been brought from the Shipka Peak and bears an inscription from Ivan Vazov’s famous poem: “It was for you Bulgaria they perished, For you alone this sacrifice they made, To you their motherland they were a credit”.QC-4, Alexander Nevsky Square.

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES ALEXANDER NEVSKY CRYPT MUSEUM (KRIPTATA NA ALEXANER NEVSKY) The cool and silent crypt below the cathedral provides an imposing home for the Old Bulgarian Art Collection of the National Gallery, depicting Orthodox Church Art from its origins in the 4th century through to the 19th century National Revival period. The focus is predominantly on icon painting with some 300 permanent exhibits, including an altar cross and a pair of altar doors from the Rila monastery. QC-4, pl. Alexander Nevsky, MSofiyski Universitet. Open 10:00 – 17:30. Closed Mon. 3 – 6 leva. J ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM (ARKHEOLOGICHESKI MUZEI) The oldest museum in Bulgaria, the museum of the archaeological institute has been in its present location the ‘Bujuk (Big) Mosque’ since 1899. The mosque itself dates back to the end of the 15th century. It recently underwent major restoration, reopening in 2000 and is without a doubt one of the most charming and interesting museums in Sofia. The setting in the white, airy 9-domed former mosque is ideal for displaying the country’s ancient treasures. Its collection includes treasures, coins and prehistorical monuments from Bulgarian soil through Antiquity and the Middle Ages. Well-displayed with Bulgarian and English captions. The highlights include the Valchitran gold treasure from the 14th century BC and the original floor mosaic from St. Sofia Church.QC-3, ul. Saborna 2, MSerdika/Sofiyski Universitet, www.naim.bg. Open 10:00 – 18:00. Closed Mon. 2 – 10 leva. J ETHNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM (ETNOGRAFSKI MUZEI) The museum, housed in the eastern wing of the former palace, gives an insight to Bulgarian folklore and traditions including Easter eggs and breads as well as costumes from various regions. Although started in 1878, many valuable exhibits were lost during the bombing in 1944 and probably the most interesting exhibit is the beautifully carved wooden ceiling. Unfortunately as in most Bulgarian museums, there are very few, if any, English transcriptions of the 2016

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Sightseeing

Museum of Socialist Art

exhibits. Most museums do however offer English, German, French or Russian speaking guides.QC-4, pl. Alexander Battenberg 1, MSerdika/Sofiiski Universitet, tel. (+359) 2 988 19 74, Open 10:00 – 18:00. Closed Mon. J MUSEUM OF SOCIALIST ART (MUZEI NA SOTSIALISTICHESKOTO IZKUSTVO) New museum showcasing art from the Socialist period (1944-1989). A large outdoor sculpture park has everything from the giant statue of Lenin that once stood in the centre of the city to the red star that topped the Socialist party headquarters. Smaller pieces reveal a gentler side to the Socialist ideals. The gallery inside has some excellent examples of 20th century modern art as well as the Socialist Realism genre we know from the period. A souvenir shop has good quality T-shirts, mugs and a few books for the time being. At present a catalogue is not available. Somewhat off the beaten track, visitors will have to get the metro to Joliot Curie or G.M.Dimitrov stations and walk 300 or 400 metres down the hill.QG-6, ul. Lachezar Stanev 7, MJoliot Curie/G.M.Dimitrov. Open 10:00 – 17:30. Closed Mon. Admission 6 leva; children, students, pensioners 3 leva; disabled, press and art students free of charge. MUZEIKO The latest addition to Sofia’s list of museum’s is the exciting, super-modern Muzeiko. A children’s science museum and discovery world, it offers over 130 interactive games and activities for young and old to discover and explore. Everything is brightly coloured, tactile, hands-on and great fun – in stark contrast to the rest of the city’s museums. Allow several hours for a visit. There are several showings per day at the planetarium (extra admission). A large and airy cafe and a gift shop with imaginative gifts and books add to the attraction. Parking is available or take the tube – it’s literally just behind the G.M.Dimitrov metro station.Qul. Prof. Boyan Kamenov 3, MG.M.Dimitrov, tel. (+359) 2 902 0000, www. muzeiko.bg. Open 10:00 – 18:00. Closed Mon. Weekdays: Age 4-18: 6 leva; Over 18: 10 leva; Family ticket: 27 leva. Weekends: Age 4-18: 8 leva; Over 18: 15 leva; Family ticket: 40 leva. 20 Sofia In Your Pocket

NATIONAL GALLERY KVADRAT 500 (NATSIONALNA HUDOZHESTVENA GALERIYA) The newest museum building in Bulgaria – the National Gallery – opened on May 25, 2015 in the building of the former State Printing House on Alexander Nevsky Square. Almost 2,000 artworks from the gallery’s rich fund of over 42,000 pieces by Bulgarian and foreign artists, are exhibited in 28 halls on four levels. The Bulgarian collection dates back to the 1890s, while the greater part of the foreign collection was formed in the 1980s. As an institution, the National Gallery unites the former National Museum of Bulgarian Fine Arts and the National Gallery of Foreign Art. The idea of housing a national gallery in the complex of buildings that includes the National Gallery of Foreign Art and the vacated wings of the Technical University with its entrance across from the Vasil Levski monument, began to be developed in 1999. The public tender for the design of a modern museum centre was won by the architect Yanko Apostolov in 2010. The Bulgarian Ministry of Culture signed a contract for EU funding under the Regional Development Operational Programme. The representative exposition (conceived by famous Bulgarian contemporary artist Svetlin Rusev) features works tracing the path of Bulgarian art from the mid-nineteenth century to the present day, Western European art from 15th.-19th. centuries, and art exhibits from Europe, Asia, Africa and America.QC-3, ul. 19 Fevruari 1, MSofiyski Universitet, tel. (+359) 2 980 0093, www.nationalartgallerybg.org. Open 10:00 – 18:00. Closed Mon, Last admission 17:30. Adults: 10 leva; children, students and pensioners: 5 leva. Entrance is free every second Thursday of the month. J NATIONAL HISTORY MUSEUM (NATSIONALEN ISTORICHESKI MUZEI) 22,000 exhibits show the development of social, cultural and political life on Bulgarian soil. From the first prehistoric settlements through to the National Revival period and the Bulgarian State 1878 – 1945; covering the Greeks, Romans, First Bulgarian Kingdom in the Middle Ages and the Byzantines. Among the most spectacular exhibits are the unique gold treasures from Panagyurishte and the Thracian silver from Rogozen as well as silver and bronze jewellery from the Bronze Age. In the splendid main hall on the first floor, with its full height glass windows opening onto Vitosha mountain, visitors can see the development of the Bulgarian alphabet and early Bulgarian Christian art. A recent addition to the costume collection includes the wedding dress worn by Princess Kalina, daughter of Simeon Saxe Coburg Gotha. Located in the outskirts of Sofia in the upmarket Boyana district, the museum cannot be reached on foot. Take the number 63 or 111 buses, the number 2 trolley bus or a taxi.Qul. Vitoshko Lale 16,Okolovrustno Shosse, Boyana District, tel. (+359) 2 955 42 80/(+359) 2 955 76 04, fax (+359) 2 955 76 02, [email protected], www.historymuseum.org. Open 9:30 – 18:00. The Box Office closes at 17:15. Adult – 10 leva; School and University student – 1 lev; Adult accompanied by children – 3 leva and for a child of 7 and over – 1 lev. sofia.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing NATIONAL MILITARY HISTORY MUSEUM (NATSIONALEN MUZEI NA VOENNATA ISTORIA) This museum was opened in 2003 and is slightly off the beaten track. No doubt of interest to military buffs and children, as the courtyard features a large selection of military machines. Recently decommissioned weapons are also on display as well as older memorabilia including uniforms, and a lock of Vassil Levski’s hair.QD-6, ul. Cherkovna 92, tel. (+359) 2 946 1805, m.museum@bol. bg, www.militarymuseum.bg. Open 10:00 – 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue.

tumes and a golden carriage clock presented to Prince Ferdinand by Queen Victoria. In addition to the permanent exhibits there will also be temporary exhibitions and there is a special room for children to get their hands on Sofia’s history.QC-3, pl. Banski 1, Old Baths, MSerdika, tel. +(359) 2 9854455, www.sofiahistorymuseum.bg/ en/. Open 10:00 – 18:00. Closed Mon. Adults: 6 leva. Children: 2 leva. Family Ticket: 10 leva. Free admission every second Thursday of the month. J

NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM (NATSIONALEN PRIRODONAUCHEN MUZEI) Centrally located next to the Russian church, this museum is a good wet weather choice for families with children, as the collection of stuffed, pickled or preserved animals never fails to impress. On the staircase of this old building there is a permanent exhibition of live reptiles and amphibians and on the ground floor there is also a collection of rocks and minerals from the moon. In the foyer is a small shop selling semi precious stones and some rather attractive contemporary jewellery. The National Museum of Natural History in Sofia is the richest museum of natural history on the Balkans.QC-4, bul. Tsar Osvoboditel 1, MSerdika/Sofiysku Universitet, tel. (+359) 2 987 41 95, fax (+359) 2 988 28 94, www.nmnhs.com. Open 10:00 – 18:00, The museum is open every day except 1 January, 3 March and 25 December. Last admission is at 17:00. Adults: 4.00 leva; Children under 6: 1.00 lev; Pupils and students: 2.00 leva; People with disabilities: 1.00 lev; Retirees: 2.00 leva. J­U

ARCHAEOLOGICAL COMPLEX SERDIKA During the construction of the second phase of the underground, remains of the ancient Roman city Serdika were uncovered. Laboriously uncovered, partially restored (not always without criticism) the complex consists of eight streets, an early Christian basilica, six large buildings, mineral springs, a medieval church all located at underground level and covering approximately 9000 square metres. Dating back to a period from 1st till 6th century AD, the visitor to this newly opened complex can admire early examples of a water and sewage system, as well as ornately tiled floors. QC‑3, pl.Nezavimost, MSerdika. J

SOFIA CITY ART GALLERY (SOFIISKA GRADSKA HUDOZHESTVENA GALERIYA) This modernist concrete block, originally a casino till 1944, became the home of the City Gallery in the 1970s, although the gallery itself was founded in1928 and was first known as The City Museum. The permanent collection consists of predominantly 20th century paintings and sculptures by Bulgarian artists, many of which have been donated to the gallery, but there are frequent visiting exhibitions. The gallery often hosts musical recitals and avantgarde events. A small area at the entrance sells postcards, posters and books about Bulgarian art.QC-3, ul. Gurko 1, MSerdika, tel. (+359) 2 987 2181, www.sghg.bg. Open 10:00 – 19:00, Sun 11:00 – 18:00. Closed Mon. Free admission. J SOFIA HISTORY MUSEUM (MUZEI NA ISTORIATA NA SOFIA) This museum dedicated to the ‘History of Sofia’ is housed in the magnificent former baths building behind the mosque. It finally opened to the public on 17th September 2015, after years of restoration and planning. Eight halls with over 1000 exhibits from 6000 BC to present day; among the many items on display, there is a reconstructed neolithic house, an old news stand, printed materials, cosfacebook.com/SofiaInYourPocket

OTHER SIGHTS

COMMUNIST PARTY HOUSE (PARTIEN DOM) Until August 1990 this was the seat of the Central Committee of the Communist Party. In the summer of 1990 it was set on fire by crowds protesting against communist rule. Based on the designs of P. Zlatev, it was built by a co-op of architects which included Tsolov and the Soviet architect Blochin. Completed in 1953, it marks the top end of an area known as the Largo, a major showpiece of postwar socialist Sofia. Look up and you will notice something distinctly missing. The red star! This was removed after the collapse of the communist party. Now it is exhibited at the recently opened Museum of Socialist Art. Today the building is mainly used as Government offices and the splendid Sofia Hall is occasionally used for charity concerts.Q C-3, pl. Alexander Battenberg 1, MSerdika. J

Archaeological Complex Serdika

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Sightseeing EAGLES BRIDGE (ORLOV MOST) Built in 1891, across the Perlovska River, according to a project by Kolar & Proshek, the stone bridge flanked by four bronze eagles atop four granite columns was seen to mark the entrance to the city and the start of a new era. The chosen site marked the place where Sofianites welcomed back the revolutionaries in 1878, and the eagles were seen as a symbol of freedom. Nowadays, Eagles’ Bridge marks the entrance to Borissova Gradina park and is one of the points at which one can enter the Sofia University metro station.QD‑5, bul. Tsarigradsko Shossе/ Evlogi Georgiev, MSofiyski Universitet. J HALITE Well worth a visit to see how a once delapidated building can once again become a thriving centre of trade. The former food market, built in 1909, was one of the earliest of this type in the country. Fully renovated in the late 1990s, the main focus of the shops inside is once again food, with stalls selling fresh fish and special dietary foods, as well as a variety of other shops and cafes.The ornate facade – which incorporates Byzantine and medieval Bulgarian architectural elements – has alternating layers of stone and brick, large window niches and a high central arch above that is the city coat of arms topped by a small clock tower. Long before the Hali was built, archaeological excavations show that the site served as a gathering and market place dating back thousands of years. In the basement are archaeological remains, including Roman baths and parts of Serdica’s fortress wall. Architect Nahum Tarbov.QB‑3, bul. Maria Luisa 25, MSerdika. Open 07:00 – 00:00. J

Although you are unlikely to want to see a play unless your Bulgarian is excellent, you can still sit out front at one of the many cafes and soak up the atmosphere.QC‑3, ul. Dyakon Ignatii 5, MSofiyski Universitet. MILITARY CLUB (VOENEN KLUB) In its hey day, prior to 9th September 1944, the Military Club was the venue for many a splendid ball, attended by royalty and Sofia’s elite. Built in 1895 based on designs by the architect Antonin Kolar, the architect Nikola Lazarov also participated in the construction, The facade of this attractive Renaissance-style building was restored a few years ago as part of a UNDP-funded “Beautiful Bulgaria” project, and the Military Club is once again proving a popular venue for social events.QC‑4, bul. Tsar Osvoboditel 1, MSofiyski Universitet.

HOLY SYNOD (SVETIYA SINOD) The Holy Synod is a ruling body of the Bulgarian Orthodox Church. The beautiful ornate building of the Holy Synod was built in 1908 by Petko Momchilov and J Milanov. Red and gold Majolica tiled friezes wrap the building, the central mosaic portrait depicts three members of the Holy Synod. Sadly much of original sculptural elements were destroyed during the Second World War. This building is the residence of the Bulgarian Patriarch and is not open to the public.QC‑4, ul. Oborishte 4, MSofiyski Universitet, tel. (+359) 2 987 56 11. J

NATIONAL ASSEMBLY / PARLIAMENT (NARODNO SABRANIE) The slogan on the facade above the entrance “Obedinenieto Pravi Silata”, loosely translated means ‘United we are strong’, which seems wishful for any parliament. This is the scene of regular public protests and back in 1997 the building was actually stormed and damaged, leading to the eventual downfall of the ruling (Socialist) party.Built in three stages between 1884 – 1928, it was built by Bulgarian Architect, Konstantin Ivanovich who had been living and working in Vienna.QC‑4, pl. Narodno Sabranie, MSofia University.

IVAN VAZOV NATIONAL THEATRE (NARODEN TEATAR “IVAN VAZOV”) Built in 1907 by the Austrian architects Helmer & Felner, the National Theatre is one of the most ornate buildings in Sofia. The 40 metre high façade, is fronted by a large pediment, supported on six white marble columns, depicting Apollo and the muses. The twin towers that rise up behind are crowned with sculptures of the goddess Nike.The interior was destroyed by fire in 1923, and restored again six years later increasing the theatres seating capacity to over 1000. The ornate main hall has an 850 audience capacity. The stage curtain, with its mythical firebird motive from Stravinsky’s ballet, was woven by women from Panagyurishte.

PRESIDENCY (PREZIDENTSTVO) The Presidency was built in the mid 1950s as part of the ‘Largo’ complex according to designs by architect Tsolov. Today the Bulgarian president has his official chambers here facing the archaeological museum and his rather smart guard of honour has been photographed by many a tourist. The guards change every hour on the hour but if you want the full pomp and ceremony be here on the first Wednesday of the month at 12:00 when you can see the official changing of the guards complete with music, shouting and weapon brandishing.QC‑3, bul. Dondukov 2, MSerdika, www.president.bg.

22 Sofia In Your Pocket

sofia.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing ROYAL PALACE (TSARSKIA DVORETS) Built in 1873, it was the residence of the ruling governor during the Ottoman occupation, with administrative offices and police headquarters on the lower floors. It was in fact here that Vassil Levski was tried and sentenced to death. After liberation it became the seat of the Bulgaria’s first post liberation monarch, Knyaz Alexander Battenberg and it was the first building to be refurbished in contemporary Viennese style, with Austrian architects Rumpelmaier and Gruenanger each adding new wings. It is now home to the National Art Gallery and the Ethnographic Museum and this is the only way the palace can be visited. The exterior has recently been restored to its former glory. QC‑4, pl. Alexander Battenberg 1, MSerdika/Sofiyski Universitet. SOFIA UNIVERSITY ‘ST. CLIMENT OF OHRID’ (SOFIYSKI UNIVERSITET “SVETI KLIMENT OHRIDSKI”) The University was founded in 1888 and was originally named after the brothers Evlogi and Hristo Georgiev who donated the land and funds for the construction of a university building. Their statues are seated outside the main entrance. The international design competition was originally won by Henri Breansson in 1907, his designs were however later modified by Yordan Milanov. The foundation stone having been laid in 1920, construction didn’t start till 1941 and new wings designed by L.Konstantinov were completed as late as 1985. Nowadays only part of the actual university campus is based here, with many faculties located around the city. There is a very pleasant courtyard with a couple of outdoor cafes where you can soak up the academic atmosphere.QC‑4, bul. Tsar Osvoboditel 15, MSofiyski Universitet. ST. CYRIL AND ST. METHODIUS NATIONAL LIBRARY (NATSIONALNA BIBLIOTEKA “SVETI SVETI KIRIL I METODII”) Officially opened at the end of 1953, construction on this neoclassical building had started as early as 1939, but was then put on hold because of the Second World War. The Library was designed to hold 1.5 million books with a reading room for 450 people. Architects: Ivan Vasiliov & Dimitar Tzolov. In the garden area directly in front there is a statue of the two brothers St. Cyril and St. Methodius, added in 1975.QC‑4, bul. Vassil Levski 88, MSofiyski Universitet, tel. (+ 359) 2 988 28 11, fax (+ 359) 2 843 54 95, www.nationallibrary.bg. Open 8:30 – 18:00, Sat 9:00 – 15:00. Closed Sun. The National Library is closed for readers every year from the 1st to the 31st August and also every last Tuesday of the month. J

RELIGIOUS BUILDINGS ALEXANDER NEVSKY CATHEDRAL (HRAM-PAMETNIK “ALEXANDER NEVSKY”) Named after St. Alexander Nevski, a Russian Tsar who saved Russia from invading Swedish troops in 1240 and the patron facebook.com/SofiaInYourPocket

saint of Tsar Alexander II, who was also referred to as Bulgaria’s Tsar Osvoboditel (Liberator), since it was his troops that finally brought about Bulgaria’s liberation from Ottoman rule. The foundation stone of Sofia’s biggest church was laid in 1882. Built between 1904-1912 in the Neo Byzantine style, typical for Russian churches in the 19th century, the cathedral is 76 metres long and 53 metres wide and is said to hold up to 7000 people. It covers an area of 2600 square metres. The belfry is 52 metres high and houses 12 bells. Some of Russia and Bulgaria’s best artists of the time worked on the interior with its five aisles and three altars. Sienna and Carrera marble in the entrance area, stained glass windows, Venetian mosaics and dramatic murals such as The Lord God Sabbath in the main cupola, and The Day of Judgement above the exit, onyx and alabaster columns on the thrones all add to the richness of the interior without making it in any way gaudy. The spectacular external golden domes were covered in gold leaf, donated by Russia in 1960 and have recently been regilded.The Russian architect A.N.Pomerantsev is also the architect of the famous GUM (State Department Store) in Moscow. Find time to visit the crypt under the cathedral with its fascinating collection of icons.QC‑4, pl. Alexander Nevsky, MSofiyski Universitet. J BANYA BASHI MOSQUE (DZHAMIYA “BANYA BASHI”) Ideally located in the centre of Sofia close to the old (and still partially dilapidated) mineral baths, this brick building was built in 1576 and named after the mineral baths.The dome has a diameter of 15 metres, and the building is the only remaining example in Bulgaria of a domed roof on a cubic base. The architect Mimar Sinan was chief architect to the Sultan and his works also include the Selim mosque in Edrine and the Blue mosque in Istanbul Turkey. It is the only working mosque in Sofia and the muezzin calls the worshippers to prayer every day with a loudspeaker on the minaret (a decision has recently been taken to reduce the volume as it disturbs those who live in the vicinity!). Around 700 worshippers can fit into the mosque, the whole area around which is particulary lively on Fridays when the service inside the mosque is broadcast on the loudspeaker for those who cannot fit inside. Prayer times: 13.30; 15.30; 20.45. Visitors are welcome outside of prayer times.QC‑3, bul. Maria Luiza, MSerdika. J 2016

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Sightseeing

VITOSHA MOUNTAIN Sofia may have no river to speak of, but how lucky it is to be at the foot of the majestic Vitosha mountain. Standing at a proud 2290 metres high, the mountain provides hiking and skiing opportunities for the city’s residents and can be a welcome break from the summer heat. Spring and autumn are both wonderful seasons for a leisurely or not so leisurely walk up the magnificent mountain that is only 15 km away from the centre of town. In the autumn you will even find blueberries (borovinki), though the wild strawberries and raspberries are long gone. There are many starting points, depending on where you are coming from in the city. Closest to town are Knyazhevo, Boyana, Dragalevtsi and Simeonovo. The Simeonovo gondola lift is down on the ring road and takes you up to Aleko, which in winter months is the centre of the ski resort. From there you can walk along the plateau or take any one of many marked paths, including one right up to Cherni Vruh (Black Peak) the top of the mountain (approx. 2 and a half hours’ walk each way). You can take the chair lift up or down to Black Peak to shorten the walk. The Dragalevtsi open chair lift (up the road from Dragalevtsi village square) ends up somewhere in the middle of the plateau. Another fairly flat walk is what is known as the ‘Panoramic Path’ (panoramna puteka) which winds its way around the mountain above the villages. The nicest part to walk along is between the villages of Bistritsa and Zheleznitsa where some kind soul has decorated the whole path with wooden signs sporting words of wisdom and there are plenty of wooden stools and benches for a brief rest. To find the path from Bistritsa take a right at the square and keep going straight up for around 2km until you come across the parked cars. The walk to Zheleznitsa and back is 8km. If you want to walk uphill rather than on the flat plateau, you need to start further down the mountain. To start from Simeonovo you need to turn right after the square and follow the people entering the woods about 200m 24 Sofia In Your Pocket

further up. The path is flat to begin with and then branches off either right towards Dragalevtsi or left towards Bistritsa on the Panoramic Path. Carry straight on following the signs to Aleko and Cherni Vruh. It’s not a steep uphill but will certainly get your heart beating. Aleko is about 2 ½ to 3 hours away and you will meet plenty of other hikers if you go on a weekend. Another popular route starts above Boyana Church and passes by the Boyana Waterfall on its way up to Zlatnite Mostove where the ‘stone river’ (Morenite) can be seen in its full glory. Take a picnic if you’re planning on doing the full walk up and down, and it’s always wise to have something warm to put on as the temperature can change very quickly in the mountain, especially if you have worked up a sweat and then stop to rest. Buses also drive up to the ski centre Aleko all year round.

CHERNI VRUH (BLACK PEAK) At 2290 m, this is the highest point of Vitosha mountain. The name translates as ‘Black Peak’, though to be up here in the summer or autumn and to enjoy the fabulous view over to the Rila mountain range it is hard to imagine why it has been given such a bleak name. The mountain hut works at least in the summer months and sells simple cooked dishes and drinks, though on sunny days you may be better advised to bring a picnic as the queue for bean soup can be long and wearing! MORENITE The ‘moraines’, or stone river, is to be found in the Zlatni Mostove (Golden Bridges) area of the mountain, above Boyana residential district. Access is by car or bus and there are several mountain huts that serve basic food.

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Sightseeing BOYANA CHURCH (BOYANSKATA TSURKVA) One of Bulgaria’s most significant historical treasures, listed on the Unesco World Cultural Heritage list. Set amongst tall old pine trees in the exclusive suburb of Boyana on Vitosha mountain, this quaint church dates back to the 11th century and was built in three stages (11th, 13th and 19th century). The frescoes, dating back to 1259, are considered a remarkable example of realistic art from that era, a century earlier than the birth of the Italian Renaissance. 240 realistic figures, bearing the features of Bulgarian life at that time, are depicted on the walls and include portraits of Tsar Konstantin Assen and his wife Tsaritsa Irina as well as Tsar Kaloyan and his wife Dessislava. The name of the artist (or artists) is unknown and he is generally just referred to as the Boyana Master.At the nearby museum, visitors can get a more detailed insight into the remarkable history of this church. Access to the church is restricted and only with a guide.Qul. Boyansko Ezero 1-3, Boyana, Sofia, tel. (+359) 2 959 0939, www. boyanachurch.org. Open 09:30 – 17:30. RUSSIAN CHURCH (RUSKATA TSURKVA) This small decorative church with its golden onion domes was built between 1912 and 1914, (by many of the same workers from the nearby Nevski Cathedral) to appease a Russian diplomat afraid to worship in Bulgarian churches. The church is named after St. Nikolai ‘the miracle maker’. To this day wishes are written on slips of paper and placed in the wooden box by the white marble sarcophagus of Bishop Serafim (1881 – 1950), who is buried in the crypt. Although never canonized, he is revered by many Bulgarians as a saint. Services are carried out according to the Julian calendar, so Christmas is celebrated on January 7th.QC‑4, ul. Tsar Osvoboditel 3, MSerdika/Sofiyski Universitet, tel. (+359) 2 986 2715. J ST. GEORGE ROTUNDA (ROTONDA “SVETI GEORGI”) This charming round red brick church dates back to the 4th century, although it did not become a church till the 6th century. It is Sofia’s oldest preserved building. Having undergone major restoration work, it was reopened to the public in 1998 for the first time in 70 years. Three layers of frescoes can still be seen, the oldest dating back to the 10th century illustrating the development of monumental painting through to the 14th century. Nowadays it often hosts small art exhibitions. Services are held daily at 8:00; 17:00 and 21:00. The excellent website has a section called ‘chants’ where you can listen to recordings of Old Church Slavonic chants.QC‑3, bul. Dondukov 2, MSerdika, tel. (+359) 2 980 9216, www.svgeorgi-rotonda.com. J ST. PETKA SAMARDZHIISKA CHURCH (TSURKVA “SVETA PETKA SAMARDZHIISKA”) This quaint church was built in the 14th century during Ottoman rule, which explains why it is below ground level and very simple in its exterior. Apart from a small skylight, facebook.com/SofiaInYourPocket

which is now blocked, there is no natural daylight inside. As you enter the church, be sure to make your way upstairs to see the remains of the murals, dating from the beginning of the 15th century, although the subject matter of the murals dates back to an era prior to Ottoman occupation. The national hero, Vassil Levski, is said to have been buried here after been hanged by the Ottoman rulers and a bronze plaque on the wall commemorates that, though there is no proof that his remains lie here. St.Petka functions as a normal church with regular services. A small ‘admission donation’ is requested to cover the expenses involved in keeping the church open.The nickname Samardzhiiska comes from the Bulgarian word for the leather craftsmen who supported the church and had their market nearby.QC‑3, bul. Maria Luisa 2, MSerdika. J ST. SOPHIA CHURCH (TSURKVA “SVETA SOFIA”) The oldest Eastern Orthodox Church in Sofia reopened to the public in 1999 after major restoration and renovation works, and once again plays an important role in the day to day rituals of Sofianites. It is in fact this church, built at the highest point in Sofia, that gave its name to the present-day capital back in the 14th century. The simple red brick church dates back to the 6th/7th century when it was the site of Serdica’s necropolis. Beneath it lie several earlier churches dating back to the early 4th century. You can now visit some of the remains of the ancient buildings and tombs that lie under the church as part of a brand new fascinating museum opened to the public in May 2013. During the Ottoman yoke it was turned into a mosque, but after an earthquake in 1818 toppled the minaret and another some 40 years later killed the Imam’s two sons, it was abandoned and restored as a church after the Liberation. This is a very popular church for weddings and christenings.QC‑4, ul. Parizh 2, MSofiyski Universitet. Open 09:00 – 17:00, Necropolis Museum. Admission to Necropolis Museum: 6 leva for adults, 2 leva for concessions. J SYNAGOGUE (SINAGOGATA) The largest Synagogue in the Balkans and third largest in Europe was built between 1905 and 1909 by Austrian architect Gruenanger in Spanish-Mauritanian and Byzantine style. The building is a smaller replica of the Sephardic synagogue in Vienna, which was destroyed during the Second World War. With seating for over 1000 people, it is open to visitors and worshippers. A museum tracing the history of Jews in Bulgaria is to be found inside the synagogue building. Of particular interest is the permanent exhibition dedicated to the saving of the Bulgarian Jews during WWII.QB‑3, ul. Ekzarh Josif 16, tel. (+359) 2 983 5085, www.sofiasynagogue. com. Open 09:00 – 13:00; 14:00 – 16:30. J

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Shopping Sofia these days offers everything that any place has to offer in shopping terms. With countless shopping malls, each subsequent one larger than the last, an outlet centre, central shopping streets and plenty of supermarkets – primarily German – one no longer needs to leave the country for a shopping fix.

FARMERS’ MARKET Farmers market every Saturday at the Rimska Stena market in the Lozenets district. Local producers offer pesticidefree and often certified organic fruit and veg, honey, cosmetics, drinks, dairy products and more.QE‑4, Rimska Stena, ul. Hristo Smirnenski. Open Sat 11:00 – 15:00.

GIFTS AND SOUVENIRS

GRAF IGNATIEV The row of fruit and vegetable stalls on ul. Graf Ignatiev in the centre of the city adds plenty of character to this tramonly thoroughfare. Fresh fruit and veg, impressive displays of nuts and dried fruit as well as honey and honey-based products. In season you can also buy boiled corn on the cob, roasted pumpkin and chestnuts. The stalls usually pack up around 9 p.m.QD‑4, ul. Graf Ignatiev.

Traditional souvenirs from Bulgaria range from the ubiquitous vials of (foul smelling) rose oil, via hand-painted icons and local pottery, to silver filigree jewellery. All of this and much more can be found at souvenir shops close to the tourist attractions: Alexander Nevsky Cathedral and in the underpass between the Presidency and Council of Ministers. If you want something a little more individual there are now many craft shops selling charming toys from felt or unique items by local artists that are no more expensive than the mass-produced souvenirs. ALEXANDER NEVSKY FLEA MARKET Outdoor antiques/flea market on the same square as Alexander Nevsky cathedral and Sveta Sofia church. All kinds of bric a brac is to be found, from badges and metal signs from the Soviet period to amateurish works of art, fake Montblanc pens and more. All tourists trail through here. There is also a separate area where old ladies sell lace and knitted socks. You are expected to haggle if you want to buy anything.QC‑4, pl. Alexander Nevsky. Open 10:00 – 22:00.

ART UNION OF BULGARIAN ARTISTS Curious but interesting selection of shops on the ground floor of the building, mainly related to art and picture framing.QC‑5, ul.Shipka 6, MSofiyski Universitet.

MARKETS Use the markets for fresh produce if you are self-catering but also as an insight into the nation’s habits. Each market has its own traditions and character, some being quite upmarket and selling exotic fruits and veg, others almost oriental in character.

ZHENSKI PAZAR Situated behind ‘Halite’ and close to the Synagogue and Banya Bashi Mosque, Zhenski Pazar (Ladies’ Market) is probably the biggest market in Sofia and until recently a delight for bargain hunters or those seeking the exotic! It has recently received a major makeover and with it probably lost some of it’s initial appeal, although it is still the cheapest for fruit and vegetables. Among the surrounding shops you can find authentic Arabic and Chinese products, including Halal meat. Take a walk down here as part of your tour of this part of town but do keep your bag tightly shut and beware of pickpockets.QB‑3, bul. Stefan Stambolov, MLavov Most.

SHOPPING MALLS BULGARIA MALL The only thing to make this mall stand out from the rest is that it is home to Debenhams. Then again, that doesn’t mean much to anyone unfamiliar with the British High Street.Qbul. Bulgaria 69, www.bulgariamall.bg. CITY CENTRE SOFIA The first mall to be built in Sofia is now the smallest and is currently being re-vamped. Located fairly centrally, at the edge of South (Yuzhen) Park behind the Hilton hotel, it is a manageable size and has a good cinema complex, a couple of restaurants and a food hall offering fast food, in an area of the city where there is not much else in terms of competition.QE‑3, bul. Arsenalski 2, MEvropeyski Soyuz, www.ccs-mall.com. MALL OF SOFIA Fairly centrally located shopping mall with a large cinema complex. As one of the first malls to be built, it is smaller than its predecessors but its proximity to the city centre and the nearby metro station ensure it is well frequented.QC‑2, bul. Alexander Stamboliiski 101, MOpalchenska, tel. (+359) 2 929 3377, www.mallofsofia.bg. Open 10:00 – 22:00. PARADISE CENTRE Large mall with amusement rides on the roof. Unfortunately it is on one of the most congested main roads out of town.Qbul. Cherni Vrah 100, MJames Bouchier, www. paradise-center.com.

26 Sofia In Your Pocket

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Shopping Kanchev, but at least the pavement issue is currently being addressed.QD‑3, ul. Angel Kanchev, MNDK. KRAKRA Krakra street is just one of several smaller streets in the popular residential city centre area around the Doctor’s Garden. Here you can still see some of Sofia’s grander mansions, including the beautiful Turkish embassy residence, Many of the shops here are small and art orientated, either in terms of supplying artist materials, or selling arty, locally produced gifts and souvenirs. Other streets worth exploring in the area are Sheinovo and San Stefano.QC‑5, ul. Krakra, MSofiyski Universitet.

SERDIKA CENTRE Large shopping mall, opened in 2010 offers and excellent retail mix with convenient location which is easily accessible from the city centre by car and public transport. German management ensures a fair portion of German retail chains, such as Deichmann, Humanic (shoes), Peek & Cloppenburg (fashion brands) and dm drugstores have shops here,but there is no shortage of other chain stores. QC/D‑6, bul. Sitnyakovo 48, tel. (+359) 2 495 21 21, www.serdikacenter.bg. SOFIA RING MALL Large Mall on the main Ring Road, ideally located for all who live in the suburbs, but probably less attractive for tourists, even though the restaurants here offer great views on to the mountain.Qul. Okolovrusten Pat 214, www.sofiaring.bg. THE MALL Opened in 2010. Difficult to get to without a car.Qbul. Tsarigradsko Shosse 115, tel. (+359) 2 87 87 813, www. themall.bg. P­F

SHOPPING STREETS With so many malls trying to take shoppers away from the city centre, Sofia’s central streets are filling up with small, craft shops, local designers, cafes and bars. Some of our favourites are listed here. ANGEL KANCHEV Angel Kanchev runs parallel to bul. Vitosha, from bul. Patriarch Evtimiy down to pl. Garibaldi, and offers a more eclectic mix of shops, cafes and restaurants. You can find small bakeries offering freshly baked bread and other snacks, restaurants and cafes as well as a variety of small shops run by Bulgarian artists and designers, offering their creations. Till now the broken pavements and fully parked street has slightly detracted from taking a leisurely stroll down Angel facebook.com/SofiaInYourPocket

SHISHMAN This little street that starts behind the Radisson Blu hotel has in recent years been turned into the centre of alternative art and culture in Sofia. Although narrow and usually parked with cars, several initiatives by local media have turned it into a weekend pedestrian area with outdoor theatre, concerts and crafts. On a normal day, ul. Shishman has several artsy clothes and jewellery shops, an Indian crafts shop, health food shops and plenty of small clothing boutiques to keep you busy. There are also some very nice imaginative cafes and restaurants, such as Supastar with fresh soup and One More Bar with a large garden.QC/D‑4, ul. Shishman. ‘VITOSHKA’ Sofia’s central shopping street is now fully pedestrianised between bul.Patriarch Evtimiy and ul.Alabin and has just experienced its second spring! This is the place to stroll along with family or friends on a sunny afternoon, enjoy a coffee, ice cream or drink, watch buskers and street artists and generally watch the world go by. Once upon a time this was the only place to shop in Sofia, with the Central Department Store (TsUM) at one end and any shop worth its salt being located here. With the arrival of the shopping malls ‘Vitoshka’ went into decline, a lot of people thinking its not worth trying to park in the city centre in order to do their window shopping. As the new pavements and planters came so did the cafes, and with that the crowds especially on a warm evening. And once the people returned so too did the shops, and now in fact many shops that first opted only for the malls on the outskirts are also opening on bul. Vitosha.QC/D‑3, bul. Vitosha, MNDK/Serdika.

bul. Vitosha

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Hotels SYMBOL KEY P Air conditioning

L Guarded parking

O Casino

G Non-smoking rooms

J Central location

B Outside seating

T Child-friendly

6 Pet-friendly

H Conference facilities

K Restaurant

A Credit cards accepted D Sauna U Facilities for the disabled C Swimming pool F Fitness centre

W Wifi

CREAM OF THE CROP ARENA DI SERDICA RESIDENCE Luxury 5-star hotel with a fascinating history. During construction works it was discovered that the Roman amphitheatre of Serdica, as Sofia was known in Roman times, lay underneath. Rather than filling it in with concrete, the owners cleverly incorporated the remains into the basement floor of the hotel and now the whole reception area is a monument to the city’s history. The amphitheatre is particularly attractive at night when lit up. The hotel itself can boast a central location, wellness area, restaurant and top class rooms.Qul. Budapesta 2-4, MSerdica, tel. (+359) 2 810 77 77, fax (+359) 2 810 77 70, [email protected], www.arenadiserdica. com. 63  rooms. P­J­H­A­U­F­L­G­K­D­W hhhhh GRAND HOTEL SOFIA This 5 star hotel’s USP is the size of its rooms. Originally constructed as an office centre, each room is the size of an office. Stylishly furnished, they also offer large modern bathrooms with walk-in shower. Located in the city centre in the small park next the National Theatre, the hotel is within walking distance of all the sites. Qul. Gurko 1, MSerdika, tel. (+359) 2 811 0811, fax (+359) 2 811 0953, reservations@ grandhotelsofia.bg, www.grandhotelsofia.bg. 122 rooms. P­J­H­A­F­L­G­B­K­D­W hhhhh HILTON SOFIA Top class, modern 8-storey hotel close to the National Palace of Culture and at the edge of the South Park. Light and airy rooms are decorated in cool, calm tones and soundproof windows ensure that no sound comes in from the busy road outside. The hotel has an excellent gourmet restaurant with changing themed menu and stylish outdoor barbeque terrace.Qbul. Bulgaria 1, tel. (+359) 2 933 5000, fax (+359) 2 933 5111, sofia.reservations@hilton. com, www.placeshilton.com/sofia. 245 rooms. P­Z­ J­H­A­U­F­L­G­B­K­CW hhhhh 28 Sofia In Your Pocket

SOFIA HOTEL BALKAN Wonderfully impressive hotel that is part of the architectural ensemble known as ‘the largo’. On the right is the Sheraton hotel, on the left its identical twin TsUM (Central Department Store) and set back in the middle the former Communist Party Headquarters. Right at this very moment in time the whole ensemble is difficult to see as metal hoardings spoil the view with work on Roman ruins taking place right in front of the hotel. Rooms have all the mod cons and are done out in a grand style that befits the monumental architecture.Qpl. Sveta Nedelya 5, MSerdika, tel. (+359) 2 981 6541, fax (+359) 2 980 6464, www. sofiahotelbalkan.com. 184 rooms. P­Z­O­J­H­A­­ F­L­G­B­K­D­W hhhhh

UPMARKET HOTELS ANEL Modern hotel on one of Sofia’s main boulevards out to the West. Close to an underground station, the city centre is just a couple of stops away. Large spacious rooms with lovely wood flooring throughout. Guests at the hotel can enjoy free Wifi, free car parking and free use of the pool and gym at the spa centre.Qbul. Todor Alexandrov 14, MOpalchenska, tel. (+359) 2 9119 900, fax (+359) 2 9119 906, [email protected], www.hotelanel. com. 56  rooms. P­O­J­H­A­U­F­L­K­D­W hhhhh CENTRAL PARK HOTEL Prime city centre location on Vitosha Boulevard close to the National Palace of Culture.Qbul. Vitosha 106, MNDK, tel. (+359) 2 805 8888, (+359) 2 805 8181, fax (+359) 2 805 8787, [email protected], www.centralparkhotel.bg. 77 rooms. P­J­H­A­U­ K­W hhhh NOVOTEL SOFIA Run by ACCOR, NOVOTEL Sofia has 178 rooms and suites with all modern conveniences, 6 meeting rooms with latest technology equipment, a restaurant, bar and a gym. The hotel benefits from its strategic location in one of the fastest developing new business areas of Sofia, on the city’s main arterial road Tsarigradsko Shosse Blvd. at 6 km from the city centre and only 5 km from Sofia International Airport.Qbul. Tsarigradsko Shosse 115 N, tel. (+359) 2 904 3000, [email protected], www.novotel.com/8468. 178 rooms. P­H­A­U­F­L­G­K­D­W hhhh PARK INN BY RADISSON Modern hotel in a lovely setting in the south part of town, close to the Tokuda private hospital and large complex of tennis courts. Although close to a main road with quick access to the city centre, the hotel and its ground enjoy the quiet afforded by the surrounding woodland. Great view of Vitosha mountain. The hotel has two additional buildings with apartments for long and short-term rental, a large pool and wellness area.Qul. Atanas Dukov 36, sofia.inyourpocket.com

Hotels tel. (+359) 2 8615700, fax (+359) 2 8615710, info.sofia@ rezidorparkinn.com, www.parkinn.com/hotel-sofia. 113  rooms. P­T­H­A­6­U­F­L­G­B­K­D­C­ ­W hhhh

Qul. Aldomirovska 108, tel. (+359) 2 920 1654, [email protected], www.easyhotel-sofia.bg. Check in – 2.00 p.m.; Check out – 11.00 a.m. 57 rooms. P­AUW hh

RADISSON BLU It’s hard to be more centrally located than this hotel, right opposite the National Assembly (Parliament) and Alexander Nevsky Cathedral. Any point in the city centre is easily accessible from here.Qpl. Narodno Sabranie 4, MSofiiski universitet, tel. (+359) 2 9334 334, fax (+359) 2 9334 335, info.sofia@radissonblu. com, www.radissonblu.com/hotel-sofia. 134  rooms. P ­Z ­O ­J ­H ­A ­6 ­U ­F ­L ­G ­B ­K ­D ­W­ hhhhh

HOSTELS IN SOFIA CANAPE CONNECTION What could be better than staying in a house with a courtyard in the city centre? This backpacker hostel has 18 beds (2 x 4 beds, one twin room and 8 spaces in the attic), 3 separate showers and WC, a lounge area, kitchen facilities and a small sheltered courtyard just off Vitosha Blvd. Qul. William Gladstone 12A, MSerdica, tel. (+359) 2 441 63 73, [email protected], www. canapeconnection.net. P­J­A­G­B­W

MID-RANGE HOTELS MONTECITO Recently renovated hotel close to the ring road in the direction of Plovdiv, with very reasonable room rates. Lavishly furnished restaurant and meeting rooms. One of the few hotels in Sofia to boast an outdoor pool and large children’s play centre, both indoor and out. All of this can be enjoyed while dining in the large landscaped garden under shady gazebos.Qbul. Tsarigradsko Shosse 357, tel. (+359) 2 973 6246/(+359) 88 8004820, fax (+359) 2 979 1746, [email protected], www. hotelmontecito.bg. 100 rooms. P­­T­H­A­K­C­W hhh NIKY This popular small family run hotel in the centre of town not far from Vitosha Blvd. gets the thumbs up from everyone that has stayed there.Qul. Neofit Rilski 16, MNDK, tel. (+359) 2 953 0110, (+359) 2 952 30 58, fax (+359) 2 951 6091, [email protected], www.hotel-niky.com. 25 rooms. P­Z­J­A­6­U­G­K­W hhh SUITE HOTEL SOFIA New modern building in the centre of Student’s Town. Great location if your business is in the area or nearby business park or if you are travelling by road out of Sofia.Qul. Yordan Yossifov 1A, tel. (+359) 2 440 80 80, (+359) 2 440 80 90, fax (+359) 2 445 8005, [email protected], www.suitehotelsofia.bg. 122 rooms. P­Z­T­H­A­ 6­U­F­L­G­B­K­W hhhh

BUDGET HOTELS EASYHOTEL SOFIA easyHotel Sofia is part of the British hotel chain easyHotel. com, which is unique for offering modern facilities and impeccable service at unusually low rates. All 57 rooms are small and yet each is equipped with private bathroom, double bed, TV and Wi-Fi access. easyHotel Sofia offers simple comfort at a great value and the earlier you book, the less you pay. Book at www.easyhotel.com. facebook.com/SofiaInYourPocket

APARTMENT HOTELS There are now quite a few apartment hotels in Sofia with rooms available for long-term and short-term rental, especially suitable for those who want maintenance, security, etc to be guaranteed. VITOSHA DOWNTOWN APARTMENTS A great alternative for all those who want to feel at home and yet independent when travelling. Vitosha Downtown apartments are conveniently located just off the pedestrianised central shopping boulevard with plenty of restaurants, shops and cafes in easy walking distance, as well as metro stations Serdika or NDK. New, modern, clean and well equipped apartments in a residential building with 24 hour security. Check their website for more detailed information and also apartments in other locations.Qul. Tsar Assen 15, MSerdika, tel. (+359) 888 79 29 53, saratours@ gmail.com, www.sofiaapartments.net. For a one bedroom apartment – sleeps 2 – rates are in the region of €60 per night, depending on size of apartment and length of stay. P­J­A­6­U­W

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