Idea Transcript
RECOLLECTIONS OF
SQUATTING IN VICTORIA Then Called the Port Phillip District
(From 1841 to 1851)
BY
EDWARD M. CURE
GEORGE
ROBERTSON
MELBOURNE, SYDNEY, AND ADELAIDE MDCCCLXXXIII
ROAD
CIO UN 7
CAMPAS
A JN
PKEFACE In laying the following pages before the public the writer has little to say by way of preface.
An excuse
for the publication of mere personal matters will, it is hoped, be found in the contrast their relation exhibits between the past and the present state of things in Victoria.
The champagne-loving little town of Mel
bourne in 1839, for instance; the yays of its jolly denizens; the Blacks; the expiree-convict shepherd; the Commissioner of Crown Lands, who ruled it so bravely in bush matters; the life of the squatter in the forties, are (even when seen through the medium of indi vidual experiences, possibly of not a very representative sort) features so markedly different from those of the present time, that a sketch of them may, it is hoped, find some interested readers. Having devoted his leisure hours for the last ten years to the collection of information from gentlemen resident in the bush on the subject of the aboriginal tribes spread over our continent, the writer takes this opportunity of informing such of his contributors as may chance to see this work, that he has succeeded in obtaining vocabularies
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PREFACE.
of over two hundred of our languages, and detailed accounts of about one hundred of our tribes; there being at present in print, scattered through many works, only sixty vocabularies and accounts of about twenty tribes. This accumulation of material the writer expects will be ready for publication in a few months, when it will be at the disposal of our Government, or of any scientific body which might desire to print it.
Collating
the information on this subject which the writer has in his hands with the languages and accounts of the other dark skinned people, no possible doubt seems to remain that the aboriginal race of Australia is of African descent. Other important facts connected with the past history of the Australian race also become evident.
CONTENTS CHAPTER I.
ARRIVAL IN MELBOURNE. PAGE.
My First Visit to Melbourne in 1839—The Schooner Eagle — The Yarra Yarra — The British Hotel — Hospitalities -----
1
CHAPTER II.
MELBOURNE IN 1839. Sydney Officialdom—Land Sales in 1837—Squatters of the Period—Champagne Lunches—The Old Bellman —The Melbourne Club—Town Allotments Mania— Sandridge -
3
CHAPTER III.
JOURNEY TO WOLFSORAG. A Sheep Station Purchased—A Country Inn—The Jilted Swain—Arrival at Wolfscrag—A Bush Supper -
22
CHAPTER IV.
PROSPECTS OF SHEEP-FARMING AT WOLFSORAG. Ways and Means—Shepherding—A Bad Purchase -
-
34
CHAPTER V.
TROUBLES OF A BEGINNER. Engaging a Bullock-driver—Bush Life—Bullocks Lost —My Sheep on Burnt Feed
40
CONTENTS.
viii
CHAPTER VI.
ALONE AT MY HUT. .
PAGES
Alone in the Bush—I Practise Cooking—A Visitor— Natives in War-Paint—An Anxious Time -
49
CHAPTER VII.
BULLOCKS RECOVERED AND A NEW RUN DIS COVERED. N ew Servants—In Search of Lost Bullocks—Overlanders —Tongala Plain -
61
CHAPTER VIII.
REMOVAL TO TONGALA. My Pony “Punch”—Lake Cowper—Camping Out—On the Move—Tasmanian Expirees—Colbinabbin -
*
70
CHAPTER IX.
A STATION FORMED AT TONGALA. The Goulburn River—A Visit from the Blacks-Native Boatbuilding—“ Jack the Soldier” -
83
CHAPTER X.
SHEARING, AND THE RESULTS OF MY FIRST YEAR’S SHEEP-FARMING. Shearers and Shearing—Rum—Finance—A Commercial Storm --------
95
CHAPTER XI.
A RIDE TO THE MUDDY CREEK. A Letter from my Brother—Go in Search of him— “ Prince Chairlie”—Frazer and Forbes—Tallarook— Upper Goulburn Men—The Future Legislator— Rumour about Gold - 101
CONTENTS.
IX
CHAPTER XII.
A VISIT FROM THE COMMISSIONER OF CROWN LANDS. -
PAGE.
1842—A Commissioner—Administration of Justice—An Old-man Kangaroo—The Laughing-jackass -
115
CHAPTER -XIIL
CORROBOREES, AND GIVING IN MARRIAGE. Nothing to Do—Aboriginal Ladies, Young and Old— Polygamy—The Ngooraialum Blacks—A Corroboree —Can-can Diabolique—Marriage of Kilbangaroo - 125
.
CHAPTER XIV.
THE DESERTED CAMP. Bush
Toilet—Departure
Sejant—His Departure
of
the
-
Blacks—The Dingo - 148
CHAPTER XV.
STEELE’S CREEK. A
New Run—New-Chum Serious Loss -
Neighbours — The . .
Ghost—A . -
151
CHAPTER XVI.
THE MOIRA. Occupation Licenses — The Singing Lubra — An Abo riginal Belle—Australian Landscape—Canoeing— The Moira Country - 165
CHAPTER XVII.
CHANGES IN CONNECTION WITH FLORA AND FAUNA. Early Explorers’ Ideas of Country—Oxley and Sturt— The Kangaroo Plague—The Fire-Stick
180
X
CONTENTS. CHAPTER XYIII. A VISIT TO THE MOIRA IN COMPANY WITH THE POLICE.
PAGE Troopers and Native Police—A Dandy Officer—SheepStealing—A Costly Feast—Strategy—A Captive Blackfellow—Brought to Trial—Set at Liberty - 190
CHAPTER XIX. A SUMMONS. A Legal Notice—Hurry to Melbourne—Thirty Hours in the Saddle . - 206
CHAPTER XX. CORAGORAG. Floods—A Dozen Baths a Day—New Country—A Rough Night—Stalking an Emu ..... 216
CHAPTER XXI. THE BANGERANG TRIBE. Native Tribes—Estimate of tiieir Numbers—Their Steady Decrease — Native Ovens and Cookery — Fishing — Customs—Domestic Habits—Marriage—InfanticideEducation—Government — Food — Cannibalism—Cre mation—Change of Name—Weapons—Superstitions— Dress—Games—Fire by Friction—Physical Charac teristics—Intelligence—Language . 230
CHAPTER XXII. THE WARS OF THE BANGERANG. Anecdote of the Wizard of the North—Native Fights— Homicides—Master Pepper—His Death and Burial— Kevenge — Wholesale Slaughter — The Fate of Jimmy-Jack—Duels ...... 307
CONTENTS.
xi
CHAPTER XXIII. COLBINABBIN TAKEN UP. PAGE
More New Country—Apply for Colbinabbin—Crossing the Goulburn—A Disconcerted Neighbour—Disputed Boundaries—A Curt Settlement - 331
CHAPTER XXIV. A MAIL ON THE LOWER GOULBURN—NEWS PAPERS AT TONGALA — OUTCRY AGAINST THE SQUATTERS. Moama—A Regular Mail—The First Settler—Separa tion from New South Wales .... 347
CHAPTER XXV. PROGRESS IN SHEEP-FARMING AND DAILY LIFE ON THE STATION. Station Profits and Expenses—Burning Off — Small Economies—Literary Treasures—Granada in 1851— Napoleon Buonaparte—Bush Amusements—Hunting on Foot—Duck-Shooting—A Dangerous Swim - 352
CHAPTER XXVI. HUNTING WITH FOX-HOUNDS. Maiden’s Punt—A Pack of Fox-Hounds—The First Meet —“ Bootiful Cool”—A “Canny Body”—Noctes Am brosian^—Native Wit—Bush Talk - 380
CHAPTER XXVII. LAW IN THE BUSH—AN INTRUDER ON THE RUN. Masters and Men—Caveat Commissioners—A Misguided • Frenchman—Parleying with the Foe—Brought to his Senses—Court of Petty Sessions—Bush Justices - 394
xii
CONTENTS. CHAPTER XXVIII. OLD DAVIE.
Six-Fingered Polly—Single-Eyed Charmers—The Jumbuk-
PAGK
man—A
Craving for Murder—The Eight to Kill—A Satanic Apparition ------ 405
CHAPTER XXIX. RAMBLES IN UNOCCUPIED COUNTRY. The
Pathless Woods—Lonely Excursions—Pigs’-Faces Fruit—Artistic Scenery — A False Alarm — Lake Boga Tribe—Adieu to my Sooty Friends - 41S
CHAPTER XXX. MY SERVANTS. Convict Servants—Fall in Wages—Effects of a Solitary Life—A Literary Shepherd—Soldiers’ Yarns - 436
CHAPTER XXXI. CONCLUSION. Results of my Sheep-Farming—Discovery of Gold—New CnuMS -------- 449
RECOLLECTIONS OF SQUATTING IN VICTORIA. CHAPTEK I. ARRIVAL IN MELBOURNE.
first visit to Melbourne was in August or September, 1839. I had come in company with my father from Circular Head, in the schooner Eagle, which was freighted with cattle, horses, and sawn timber. We had a pleasant run of twenty hours across the Straits, and after a delightful sail up the Bay we anchored off Williamstown, at eight o’clock in the morning. After breakfast we got into a whaleboat, which had come alongside, and proceeded up the Yarra Yarra (as the river was always called at that time) to Melbourne. The day, I remember, was crisp and exhilarating, and well fitted to give favourable first-impressions ; the stream bright and clear, and clad with the verdure of the ti-tree and other shrubs to its edge, vistas of grassy land presenting themselves here My
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RECOLLECTIONS OF
and there. What struck me most—though birds were not wanting—was the stillness of the bush. As for signs of civilization, they were as com pletely absent from the lower portion of the river as when Batman first steered his boat to the Falls. They were, however, close at hand; and we were not long in reaching the bustling little town of Melbourne, where one of the crew, in the absence of a wharf, fastened our boat to a friendly stump, and we jumped on shore, carpet-bag in hand, and proceeded to take up our quarters at the British Hotel, which, if I recollect rightly, was one of only three inns then in Melbourne, and stood at the south end of William-street, at about a hundred yards from the landing-place. Arrivals in Melbourne not being quite so numer ous then as they are now, ours soon became known to some of my father’s friends, who came to our hotel to welcome him to the new colony. Invitations to dinner; to take up our quarters, during our proposed stay in Melbourne, at the houses of friends ; and to the gaieties of the hour, were numerous and cordial. Our little sittingO room was soon filled, and conversation became animated, there being notably prevalent a general tone of high spirits, based, as it appeared, on the unexpected prosperity and unbounded hopes of the young community, which was as delightful as it was infectious. The next day my father removed to the Melbourne Club, of which he had been
SQUATTING IN VICTORIA.
3
elected an honorary member; whilst I went to take up my quarters at the cottage of a friend (a few months before a fellow-passenger from England), who resided en gargon on the Yarra, close to its junction with the Merri Merri Creek, his family not having yet arrived to join him. Of course I felt a good deal of curiosity to see Melbourne, which I had heard much talked of in Tasmania, whence it had already seduced a good deal of the enterprise and capital. It was also the first colonial town I had been in since boyhood, and was already spoken of as destined to become the leading city of the Australias.
CHAPTER II. MELBOURNE IN 1839.
has had its alternations of activity and depression, like other cities, of course ; but, on the whole, I think we may say that it has been a bustling, stirring sort of place from the very pip. Going back to the days of its founders, Ave find that they had hardly got their tents pitched, and local quarrels properly established, when they raised a hue and cry and insisted on the Govern ment of New South Wales unlocking the lands, Melbourne
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RECOLLECTIONS OF
having the site of the future city surveyed, allot ments put up, a police magistrate sent down, and Avho knows what besides ; so that, evidently, the youngster was in a hurry. Of course, all this impatience was quite irregular, and probably to the official mind (if current ideas concerning it are correct) must have seemed very much on a par with a three-days-old baby declining its pap and clamouring lustily for beefsteak and bottled ale. No doubt officialdom in the good city of Sydney must have groaned from every pigeon-hole (ab immo pectorc) ; and if the eccentricities of the new comers did not bring on their devoted heads a visitation of gubernatorial displeasure, and the pioneers had their wishes complied with (after a year or two), it may no doubt be attributed to the fact that the prospect of a speedy contribution to the Treasury, from land sales, was at the bottom of the business. However that may be, we know that the first sale of town allotments took place in Melbourne in June, 1837, or about two years subsequent to the first settlement, and rather more than two years prior to the period of which I write, and that the half-acre allotments realized on the occasion an average of some £33 all round. As characteristic of how things had gone on during these two years I may men tion that, on the occasion of this visit, I was present at what was known as Ebden’s sale, when three of these allotments sold at auction
SQUATTING IN VICTORIA.
5
for something over £10,000, from which an idea may be formed, not only of the rise in prices, but of the insane spirit of speculation at that time rampant in the colony. The town allotments sold in 1837 had, as a rule, generally been built on when I saw them, display ing structures of every variety of plan which might suit the tastes or the pockets of their ■owners, those which could not boast of a tenement being generally enclosed with a two-rail fence. Any approach to continuous rows of uniform or similar buildings such as one expects to find in streets there was none, as everyone built as he liked, in the most independent way, and to suit the requirements of the moment. Here and there houses were of brick, some of one, and a few of two stories ; others were of weatherboards, wattleand-dab, or slabs. In some cases there were two cottages on the same allotment, in others one; some of the buildings hugged the footpath which was to be, and others stood back from the street, amidst trees and stumps, in semi-rural retirement; whilst here and there considerable intervals occurred entirely destitute of buildings. The size, too, of the structures, in many cases, could hardly be considered commensurate with the uses to which they were put; the operations of the Bank of Australasia, and of the Post office, for instance, were each carried on in a small four-roomed brick cottage, in which some at least
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RECOLLECTIONS OF
of the officials connected with them also dwelt. In another instance, the front of a wooden hut of the dimensions of eight feet by twelve, which stood near about where the Argus office now is, displayed on a signboard in large letters the waggish announcement “ Universal Emporium,” and in its window a few pipes and sticks of tobacco arranged crosswise. As regards the streets, no attempts had yet been made to pave or macadamize them, and very little to separate the footpath from the roadway; whilst, in the absence of drains, chasms, in many places— notably in Elizabeth-street—some eight feet deep and fifteen or twenty feet wide, had been excavated by the rains. At the intersections of streets the perpendicular banks of these gullies were broken down by drays, and tolerably practicable crossingplaces established, which answered wrell enough except during heavy rains, when they got flooded six or eight feet deep, and had to be crossed some where north of Lonsdale-street. In most of the streets stumps wrere plentiful, and in all but one or two, trees were occasionally to be met with; whilst by no stretch of imagination could the limits of the town be said to extend beyond the area enclosed by William-street, Lonsdale-street, Swanston-street, and Flinders-street. Strasredin